Zenith Launch New G.F.J Wristwatch with Modernised Calibre 135

Zenith are celebrating their 160^th anniversary in 2025 so it’s the perfect time to launch a new collection dedicated to the brand’s heritage. The new watch is called the G.F.J, based on the initials of Georges Favre-Jacot, the original founder of Zenith. Another nod to its heritage is the fact it houses a modern re-interpretation of Zenith’s (second) most famous movement, the calibre 135. It’s an interesting timepiece and fills a gap in the brand’s current range, a hyper luxury watch with elements of Metiers d’Art – although bizarrely at the same time they’re phasing out the Elite, which was previously their entry level model.

We’re going to start by talking about the movement, the calibre 135. I call it the second most famous Zenith movement because a certain calibre called the El Primero takes the top spot but among dedicated Zenith collectors, the 135 has a special place in history. Back in the mid-20^th century the horological landscape was very different and the top echelon of chronometric performance was dictated by observatory competitions rather than the COSC or METAs certifications we know today. The calibre 135 has the accolade of being the most winning observatory movement of all time with 235 chronometry prizes, a record not likely to be beaten due to the competitions fading in popularity.

Across all those prizes, some are more significant than others and the crème de la crème is the fact it won five back to back first places in the wristwatch category at Neuchatel Observatory from 1950-1954. In 2022 Zenith took 10 heritage 135 movements from that 1950-54 period and revitalised them with the help of Kari Voutilainen. Obviously there are only so many genuine heritage examples around so releasing a new collection of any dramatic size with vintage 135 movements is completely unrealistic. What is possible though is to take the original design of the 135, update it for the 21^st century and build some completely new, modern re-interpretations.

The Zenith G.F.J’s calibre 135 updates include a redesigned gear train to boost efficiency and an increased power reserve compared to the original. Specifically, it now has a 72-hour power reserve instead of 40-hours. It has an operating frequency of 2.5 Hz, equivalent to 18,000vph, which by a lot of modern standards is actually quite low. However, that lower frequency is offset by the high quality of the balance wheel, which is extra-large with a Breguet overcoil for superb precision. All of which results in an accuracy of +/-2 seconds per day, more than enough to attain COSC chronometer certification.

Aesthetically it’s immaculately finished as well, which you can admire through the exhibition sapphire caseback. As a manual winding movement there’s no rotor obscuring its internal structures, giving an unparalleled view of that oversize balance wheel. The bridges feature a guilloché pattern Zenith describe as ‘brick’, inspired by the brand’s headquarters, it’s essentially a fluted style of cross-hatching. Lastly there’s some classic circular brushing on the barrel cover.

As the Zenith G.F.J is a new model, it features a new case. It measures 39.15mm x 10.5mm in platinum 950, the most prestigious of the watchmaking precious metals. It has a stepped bezel and sweeping, stepped lugs as well. The fusion between round curves and sharper angles gives it a strong geometric quality that feels dynamic and matches the architectural style of the ‘brick’ guilloché that’s also found on the hour scale of the dial as well as the aforementioned movement.

Focussing in on the dial, it’s formed of three parts. There’s the guilloché hour scale with white gold indexes, a central disk of lapis lazuli and a large subdial for the seconds made from blue mother-of-pearl. In isolation I wouldn’t necessarily call any of those individual elements Metiers d’Art, unlike say enamel or an engraved sculpture, but the fact that they’ve used them all together and showcased multiple skills across multiple materials both metallic and precious stone, I would say the complete dial fits the description.

The Zenith G.F.J is a limited edition of 160 pieces in honour of the brand’s 160^th anniversary. Between the platinum case, precious dial and revived calibre 135, the price tag is pretty substantial at CHF 48,900 (approx. £42,750). That just re-emphasises the absence that the discontinuation of the Elite will create, though given how spectacular the G.F.J is, that can be forgiven.

​Oracle Time 

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