Today Collective Horology is known for being a retailer in the US that specialises in independent watch brands but that’s not how their story started. Instead the brand started by creating limited edition collaboration timepieces with those same independent brands that proved immensely popular. Across the years they’ve continued these collaborations and now they’re presenting the Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition.
It a reinterpretation of the standard Defy Skyline that was launched in 2022. I’m a big fan of the Skyline because it’s one of the few watch designs from the past five years that feels genuinely new. It’s not an homage and it’s not a heritage re-edition. It’s an evolution of the historic Defy collection and evolution means change while still being grounded in Zenith’s roots.
For the C.X Edition they’ve opted for a pared back, almost industrial interpretation of the core watch. They’ve swapped out the satin brushed finishing on the 41mm case and bezel for sandblasting, creating a matte texture. That means it catches a lot less light and begins to feel almost like a utilitarian tool watch instead of a luxury timepiece. Although the angular edges of the dodecagon bezel and the edges of the caseback retain their polished finish.
As for the dial, again that almost industrial utilitarian vibe is present thanks to a raw steel tone dial. Similarly, the star pattern that’s synonymous with the collection now only extends from the centre of the dial to halfway up the hour markers instead of to the edge of the dial. It’s interesting how much impact such a relatively small alteration has. To me it highlights the practical and technical aspect of engraving the pattern into the dial rather than having your eyes slide across it naturally in a manner that almost disregards the efforts involved. It forces you to think about the processes involved in its manufacture in a way that the original doesn’t.
However, the biggest change between the Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition and the standard Skyline is the positioning of the 1/10th of a second subdial. Instead of being positioned at 9 o‘clock, it’s now at 6. It makes for what is traditionally considered a more balanced display with a line of symmetry down the centre. A key part in that symmetry is also the removal of the date window at 3. I really like the new layout as it feels less cluttered but more impactful at the same time. Additionally, the tip of the seconds hand and the 10 numeral are orange and anyone who has read Oracle Time for a while will know that orange is my favourite colour.
Inside, it houses the El Primero 3620 SK, a hi-beat movement with a 5Hz frequency. Considering how power intensive the 1/10th of a second subdial is, the calibre retains a solid power reserve of 55 hours. You can view it through the exhibition caseback that reveals a star-shaped rotor, which is a Zenith signature.
The Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition is priced at CHF 11,900 (approx. £10,625), a touch higher than the standard models at £8,300. However, I think that increase is justified due to its limited-edition status – only 200 pieces are being made – and the significant changes to the design, especially when it comes to the dial. They are available from Collective Horology and the Zenith Online Boutique.
Price and Specs:
Model:
Zenith
Defy Skyline C.X Edition
Ref:
06.9300.3620/63.I001
Case:
41mm
diameter, stainless steel
Dial:
Gradient
starry sky pattern
Water resistance:
100m
(10 bar)
Movement:
Zenith
calibre El Primero 3620 SK, automatic, 35 jewels
Frequency:
36,000
vph (5 Hz)
Power reserve:
55h
Functions:
Hours,
minutes, seconds
Strap:
Stainless
steel bracelet with additional orange rubber
Price:
CHF
11,900 (approx. £10,625)
More details at Zenith.
Oracle Time