Watches and Wonders has landed and with it the biggest slate of watch releases of the year. I’m not kidding, this is when a huge swathe of the watch industry shows off what they’ve got coming for the year ahead. In fact, by the time this piece is out, the Oracle Time team and I will be doing the rounds at Geneva’s Palexpo and discovering some fantastic timepieces. And sampling the occasional glass of champagne, of course.
However, as producing a print magazine requires a fair bit of prior knowledge, you won’t find all the newness here. We’ll be diving headfirst into Patek Philippe, Tudor, and of course, Rolex online, so keep an eye out there for our impressions on their 2025 releases. Instead, consider this a first (and rather comprehensive) look at some of the pieces we’re most excited to see. So let’s get into it.
HYT S1 Bead Blasted Titanium Red
HYT continue to have fun with their unique brand of hydromechanical watchmaking, now in a trio of titanium colourways. While the darker versions are potentially more wearable, there’s something about the white and red with its Alaska Project overtones that suits the ultra-faceted, no holds barred look. Despite the size – and they are big at over 45mm – they’re lightweight and, thanks to their intense rubber straps, more comfortable than anything of that size should be. CHF 58,000 (approx.£50,700).
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Purple Enamel
Purple is the colour of the year and few have done it better this year than Moser. The hazy grand feu enamel has a nearly mesmerising texture to it and is thankfully given plenty of room to breathe without so much as a logo in the way. Paired with elegant hands and the classic Endeavour case, it’s the perfect less is more approach. It’s still prestige of course, and the HMC 201 is a stunner through the exhibition caseback, but you’ll be hard-pressed to take your eyes off the front long enough to look. CHF 27,000 (approx. £23,600).
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date
Trust Oris to bring out some perfectly summery watches in time for the warmer months. This time they’ve taken their flagship Crown Pointer with its signature date hand and updated it in a pair of cool colours: an earthy, springtime green and a warm baked terracotta. Of the two, the latter’s my pick. Green’s pretty common these days and while it’s nice here, the pink-orange terracotta is holiday ready. Plus, any chance to see the Big Crown Pointer Date in more variations is good with me – especially if it comes with a 120-hour power reserve movement. CHF 3,600 (leather strap), CHF 3,800 (metal bracelet) (approx. £3,150/£3,225).
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica
Another year, another slice of horological intensity from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The fact that this is essentially a reskin of 2023’s marquee piece doesn’t detract from the fact that it’s a combination of gyrotourbillon and reversible case – especially as somehow, the main event is the dial. The decorative plates and bridges have been laser cut for precise lines then lacquered for a distinctive, fantastically ornate look. There are a lot of Reversos on offer this year, but this one’s undoubtedly going to steal the limelight – as it should. Price on request, limited edition of 10 pieces.
Piaget Polo 79 White Gold
While this one isn’t exactly ground-breaking, the Polo 79 was one of the most beautiful things Piaget has released in the past few years (at least in the watch world), so a new version of it in monochromatic white gold is always something to get excited about. With the same dimensions and 1980s style as last year’s GPHG-winning yellow gold version, the new watch is brighter, icier and even more eye-catching. Yes, it’s a simple colour swap, but what a difference a new metal makes. £78,000.
Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech
Panerai’s latest is a bit of a mouthful but in reality is a much more elegant, streamlined watch than you might expect. The Italian heritage watchmaker’s QPs are already among the more minimal, but here they’ve made the mechanics the main feature, with a sapphire dial to show off the various wheels underneath. The solid platinumtech case makes its 44mm case gym worthy, but it’s also a good reminder that while it might have the outline of a diver, this is a prestige piece of haute horology. Price on request.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication
Well, this is… a lot. Celebrating 30 years of boundary-defying iconoclastic watchmaking is no easy feat, but I reckon Roger Dubuis have pretty much nailed it. Of course, that means a tourbillon and a bi-retrograde display, both brand signatures by now. But it also includes a full perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. Usually, the Excalibur’s aesthetic intensity comes from architectural, skeletonised bridges. Here it comes from everything bar the kitchen sink (the kitchen sink of course being a rattrapante chronograph). It’s a lot – and yet still somehow less mental than the Knights of the Round Table. Price on request.
Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar
After the immense success of their classical Millesime collection, Raymond Weil have turned a similar rose-tinted spotlight onto their flagship Freelancer collection. In style, it looks to be filling the void left by Carl F Bucherer, but at a fraction of the price, a handsome mix of silver and rose gold with a tastefully minimal complete calendar and moonphase. It might just be one of the prettiest things Raymond Weil has ever built. It is also available in blue and steel but honestly, this is the way to go. £3,195.
TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date Bi-Colour
Of everything on this list, this is the watch I’d probably wear the most. The Carrera is a now-classic everyday wearer, 41mm of stainless steel and a refined day-date dial. It ticks all the boxes. The bi-colour version though ticks boxes I didn’t even realised it needed. A bit more of a retro look in steel and rose gold, backed by a solid automatic movement, it’s one of the more ‘everyday’ pieces launched at Watches & Wonders, but that’s very much to its benefit. CHF 8,250 (approx. £7,200).
Trilobe Une Folle Journée Rhodium-Plated Edition
The original Une Folle Journée is one of my low-key favourite aesthetic complications; the three concentric rings waltzing around where the dial would be on a classical watch, showing the movement underneath. This time, Trilobe are making that horological backdrop a major feature by rhodium-plating the bridges. The result is an incredibly bright flash of silver, pairing nicely with the three green indicator rings. Try it on and tell me it’s not stunning. €23,300 (approx. £19,600).
![Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR]](https://oracleoftime.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Ulysse-Nardin-Diver-AIR.jpg)
Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR]
If there’s one thing you don’t want to run out of underwater it’s air, but in this case Ulysse Nardin are using the word in the context of ‘light as’. That’s because this new, intensely skeletonised twist on the already tech-heavy Diver Skeleton X weighs just 52g – and 8kg of that is just down to the strap. That makes it the lightest mechanical diver ever, not just feather weight but practical. The construction of carbon and upcycled fishing nets contains a titanium movement, able to stand up to 5,000G impacts and 200m of water. It’s a lot of effort to create something that feels like nothing at all. £30,17.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface
After starting the year strong with the steel 222, Vacheron Constantin are continuing their anniversary celebrations with a rare look inside their watches – from the front. Part of a trio of openface Traditionnelle models, where last year’s Patrimony looked back, this perpetual calendar offers a much more modern face to Vacheron watchmaking. It still has plenty of the maison’s hallmarks, from the engraving across the remaining dial inspired by a Maltese cross and a retrograde date, and the kind of finishing you want from the Poincon de Geneve-toting, oldest watchmaker in the world. It’s a very different Vacheron, but I’m very much here for it. Price on request.
Zenith GFJ
As Zenith celebrate their 160th anniversary they’re taking the opportunity to phase out the longstanding entry-level Elite collection in favour of something much more metiers d’art. The GFJ – named in honour of founder Georges Favre-Jacot – not only has a stunning triple threat vari-blued dial with guilloche, lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl, but it houses a revamped calibre 135. If you’ve not heard of that before, don’t worry, it kind of gets lost in the shadow of the El Primero. But it was an incredible historical movement that’s now back in action with a few modern twists. In short, the GFJ is much, much more than an Elite replacement. CHF 48,900 (approx. £43,000).
Baume & Mercier Riviera Chronograph Flyback
The 1970s-flavoured Riviera breathed new life into the brand’s collection and now they’re adding to the sporty feel with a quartet of chronographs, one of which stands out: the Riviera Flyback. A vintage throwback with a central tachymeter scale, lovely golden dial, rhodium plated indexes, and Roman numerals at 12 and six, it’s as close to the original ’70s line as possible. It’s a fine balance between modern and vintage, and while that’s a phrase I normally hate trotting out, it’s perfect here.
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold
Lange’s twist on the integrated bracelet steel sports watch did more than well for the German brand, and it quickly became almost impossible to get one. Of course, it wasn’t going to take long before they offered it in a much less sporty context – and here it might just be the most delicious it’s ever been. The mix of Lange’s proprietary honey-gold and a rich brown dial makes for an absolutely gorgeous combination. It still ostensibly has sporty proportions but nobody’s going to risk knocking this beauty about. Collectors take note, it’s POA so brace your bank accounts. Price on request.
Bell & Ross BR03 Skeleton Grey Steel
This year skeletons take centre stage for Bell & Ross – or at least a slight stretch of the term ‘skeleton’ – one with a sapphire dial, the other two with funky bridges and plenty of openworking. Of those two, the lumed, black version is coolest in the dark, but for all other conditions the monochromatic, industrial metal look of the Grey Steel nabs it. The inset indexes, deep inner bezel and signature square case all compound into the kind of watch anyone that works with a wrench will adore. £4,990.
Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
What was once the most affordable perpetual calendar in the world is back, and there’s a lot of competition these days. Frederique Constant are really pushing the vintage feel with a salmon dial and a svelte, 40mm case, laid out as classically as possible, right down to the onion crown. Obviously, the kicker here is price. And this great looking perpetual calendar will set you back £8,695. This isn’t some Chinese-built microbrand, this is a Swiss watch. And I can potentially afford it. That’s just a little bit mental. £8,695.
Grand Seiko Kiri Purple
The Mount Iwate dial just hasn’t caught on quite as well as Grand Seiko’s Birch or Snowflake pieces, but this absolutely stunning purple version might change that. This lilac-adjacent hue’s actually taken from the purple paulownia – or Kiri – the prefectural flower of Shizukuishi, Grand Seiko’s home. It’s simple, refined and the perfect example of what people love about Grand Seiko: unassuming beauty backed by proper mechanics. In this case, that’s the manual-wind 9S64, which makes it a surprisingly affordable prestige proposition. £5,100.
Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport
Sure, it might all be about their 25th anniversary this year – hence our cover star – but that hasn’t stopped Gerald Charles proving the versatility of their baroque Maestro case with a sportier, tennis focused version in fittingly optic yellow. The rugged grade 5 titanium case has been darkened to better suit the bright strap and dial, and with 5G shock resistance, it’s as solid inside as out. I doubt it’ll make Richard Mille worry for their ‘wear-while-playing’ crown, but the fact that it’s in the conversation says a lot. £15,800, limited to 200 pieces.
Oracle Time