Image credit: Christie’s
The rise in popularity of the integrated sports watch over the past decade is something the pioneers of the 1970s could have only dreamed of. Famously slow to be adopted by the industry, the ‘sports luxe’ integrated bracelet watch was the original disruptor of the luxury watch market, with the first stainless steel references of the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and 222 retailing at approximately 30 to 40% more than gold watches at the time. However, the reception soon warmed, and today, practically any integrated take – old or new – from any noteworthy legacy brand is relishing the limelight. That is, except for this model. Produced by Vacheron Constantin during the 1980s and ‘90s, this unconventional piece remains unknown to many. In a world where the most ubiquitous flex is having a bracelet that seamlessly integrates with a watch case, how and why is this, the Vacheron Constantin Phidias, so overlooked?
Vacheron Constantin 222 Advert (1960s)
Debuting in 1989, the Phidias was the manufacturer’s fourth attempt at integrated bracelet sports luxe success, starting with another relatively unknown model before the 222 called the Royal. Two years later, in 1977, the 222 debuted, and iterations like steel, yellow gold, two-tone, and gem-set pieces were revealed. However, after only 500 units of the 222, the watch was discontinued and replaced by the 333 – another somewhat unknown model. This early 1980s watch combined a new octagonal case shape with a bracelet similar to the 222 – clearly, Vacheron was experimenting and trying to find its successful integrated blueprint. Until this point, all its integrated watches carried traces of testing in design execution potentially linked to the newfound style becoming increasingly en vogue. Now firmly in the 1980s, a new market of watch collectors were actively seeking more youthful ways of expressing success.
Vacheron Constantin 333 (1988), image credit: Wrist Classics
Audemars Piguet had made the Royal Oak a success, with Patek Philippe and the Nautilus in the same boat. While those manufacturers started releasing diversity within series and sizes, others succeeded in a more youthful approach. Cartier had the Santos, Chopard the St Moritz, and Piaget the Polo. In the 1980s, the 333 was out, and the Phidias was in, and it was clear that with it, Vacheron was beginning to form the key influential building blocks for the Overseas that would arrive in the 1990s. And yet, the Overseas shares very few design cues with the Phidias.
“The Phidias is a very interesting design experiment, pulling some queues from integrated bracelet 222 and setting the tone for the later Overseas models,” says Ben Dunn of Watch Brothers London, a UK-based dealer specialising in late 20th-century watchmaking gems. “It’s somewhat of a transitional model, yet it’s not really connected to the former or latter.”
Vacheron Constantin Phidias Quartz (1990s), image credit: Analog:Shift
“For me, the period the Phidias is from was about experimentation, from complications to finishing techniques. There’s much to discover, not just in the models available at the time but also details such as small changes made during the different production periods. This era of watch collecting is pulling together more and more collectors every day as they work together to build out scholarship and share their findings. It’s an exciting space for someone who likes to ask questions.”
In 1989, the Phidias officially arrived as the spiritual successor to the 333, as the integrated watch carried design elements that appeared objectively sleeker and more modern for the forthcoming decade. Favouring a traditional round case rather than a popular tonneau with an octagonal bezel, the transition between bracelet and case is complete with one single effortless flow. The bracelet carries a unique channelled centre link with polished details, with horizontal gadroons segmenting out each link – all of which are removable – and its construction is undoubtedly up to par. The cases across the entire range of references are noticeably svelte in profile despite including three-handers, chronographs, and even a world time. With this lack of thickness combined with classic sizing that never exceeded 35mm, the Phidias is a reserved and quiet affair.
Vacheron Constantin Phidias (1990s), image credit: The Watch Brothers
“I love the gadroon style bracelet and dial variants available,” Dunn explains.
“There was experimentation within the Phidias, with elements such as dial colours, guilloché pattern work, and diamond setting on the case and bracelet. I find the model to be a quirky niche in Vacheron Constantin’s history. It won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but it’s a model worth seeing in person if the opportunity arises, you might be surprised.”
Perhaps the most compelling aspect of the Phidias is its upscale, refined appearance, especially considering it came at a time when other manufacturers of luxe integrated bracelet watches were leaning into more industrial styling. The Phidias remained in the Vacheron lineup for seven years, and while that’s quite a short lifespan in the grand scheme of a legacy manufacturer, for Dunn, there are some models you’ll want to look out for.
Vacheron Constantin Phidias Diamond Set (1990s), image credit: Bonhams
“Considering today’s market and my preference, I’d be looking for a full gold variant of the chronograph with a dial that helps pull your eyes away from the date at six, such as a black guilloché. The current pricing and general scarcity of the rarer variants makes for the perfect collector hunt.”
“The Phidias would be great to introduce collectors to Vacheron’s rich history. With the modern watch boom now over, most new collectors only saw the brand for its modern Overseas – well, there’s a lot more to the company than that and no better place to start than the 1970s to 2000s period,” says Dunn.
Vacheron Constantin Phidias Worldtime (1995), image credit: Ineichen
Remember, despite the width on paper being between 33mm and 35mm, with the Phidias integrating its bracelet directly into the watch case, the wrist presence is perceived as increased compared to similar widths of watches without integration. Like any reference number across a model line, current market prices can vary with fully gold chronographs like the 49001, currently demanding approximately £15,000. In contrast, automatic time and date references in two-tone, such as the 2101, could be yours for nearer £4,000. Wherever you decide to jump in, the Phidias is an extremely competitively priced piece when we consider it is a mechanical integrated bracelet watch produced with or entirely in precious metal by a leading legacy manufacturer at a time when interest in integrated bracelets still remains high.
As integrated watches go, the Phidias is a discreet and dressy choice. It channels some of the charm the industry has come to admire from the 222 with the underdog spirit of the first generation Overseas in a surprisingly distinctive way. For those looking for an intersection between the integrated bracelet hype and the recent newfound attention the dress watch has received, the Phidias may be the one- stop shop you wish you had known about sooner.
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