I love Longines GMT watches. On a purely thematic level there’s something that deeply appeals to me about the brand with a winged hourglass logo producing the complication most associated with air travel and crossing time zones. Evidently that’s something readers of Oracle Time agree with (albeit maybe not for the same esoteric reasons) because you voted the Longines Spirit Zulu Time as the best Travel Watch of 2023. The latest GMT from Longines is a little different to the Zulu Time because instead of having a rugged tool watch design, the new Longines Master Collection GMT Limited Edition is pure elegance.
That elegance starts with the case, which measures 40mm in diameter and is made from 18k yellow gold or 18k rose gold. Of the two I prefer the yellow because it’s particularly bright and striking, which I think works for the relatively large surface area of the smooth round bezel and lugs. It makes the Master Collection GMT feels fresh faced and vibrant, something that is not always the case with more traditional dress watch designs.
Moving to the dial, it’s a lovely fusion of style and function with gilt Roman numeral hour markers and matching gilt hands paired with an understated 24-hour scale on the flange. It’s the 24-hour scale and additional 24-hour hand that make this watch a GMT, as it allows you to keep track of multiple time zones simultaneously with the regular time display showing local time and the 24-hour display set to home, which is why it’s regarded as the premier travel complication. It’s a champagne in first class kind of watch.
Beneath the surface is the Longines L844.5 automatic calibre, which is an elegant piece of machinery in its own right when viewed through the exhibition caseback. It features a combination of Geneva stripes and perlage finishing enhancing the contrast between the golden rotor and silver coloured plate. In terms of specifications, it’s highly respectable with a welcome 72-hour power reserve and a magnetic resistance rating ten times higher than the ISO 764 benchmark for a magnetic resistant watch. That resistance comes courtesy of components like the silicon balance-spring, which is inert to magnetic fields.
As for pricing and availability, it’s one of the more exclusive watches they’ve produced recently with a price of £14,200 in a limited edition of 500 pieces in both materials. Compared to Longines normal price range in the £1,000 – £3,000 area, it’s markedly higher. But then, that is to be expected of a full gold timepiece featuring a high spec movement. It’s also worth it for something that has heaps of elegance and charm – a watch that reminds you that Longines can be as classy and refined as Cartier or Bulgari when they want to be.
Price and Specs:
Model:
Longines
Master Collection GMT
Ref:
L2.844.6.71.2
(yellow gold), L2.844.8.71.2 (rose gold)
Case:
40mm
diameter x 10.4mm thickness, 18k yellow gold or 18k rose gold
Dial:
Frosted
silver
Water resistance:
30m
(3 bar)
Movement:
Longines
calibre L844.5, automatic, 21 jewels
Frequency:
25,200
vph (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve:
72h
Functions:
Hours,
minutes, seconds, date, GMT
Strap:
Anthracite
grey alligator leather with 18k yellow or 18k rose gold buckle
Price:
£14,200,
limited to 500 pieces each
More details at Longines.
Oracle Time