If you need any proof that 2024 has been a great year for fostering independent watchmaking, just look at the recent releases from Haute-Rive and now Simon Brette. Similar to Haute-Rive’s re-colouring of the Honoris I, Simon Brette have also revisited their seminal timepiece with a revamped aesthetic and fresh colours. Specifically, they’ve launched the Chronomètre Artisans Rose Gold.
Mechanically and structurally it’s identical to the 2023 GPHG winning edition, with the exception of the case material changing from technical materials like zirconium and titanium to the much more luxurious rose gold. It still measures 39mm in diameter with a thickness of 10.5mm housing the exceptional Simon Brette manual-winding movement. You can also still enjoy the exposed gear train and winding mechanism through the open heart apertures on the dial.
Where the Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans Rose Gold edition really changes the pace though is the dark grey, anthracite colouring of the detailed scale-like pattern across the dial. In the original Subscription model the pattern had a smooth finish and was called ‘dragon scale’ then in the titanium follow-up it had additional engraving that led to a name change to ‘tiger claws’. In the new model the pattern is 50% the smooth scales of the dragon and 50% the engraved scales of the tiger, leading to this rendition being called ‘battle’, a war between the two finishes. The dark colour comes from a DLC coating over the hand-engraved gold dial.
I really like the diversity that the contrasting scale finishes add, as the dial becomes a lot less regular, enhancing the seemingly random assortment of shapes. It reminds me of the finishing of Grand Seiko where randomness and precision come together to create a cohesive whole. It looks almost crystalline or as if it were a mineral rather than something meticulously crafted. It reminds me of a coal tender for a high end steam train, the gold elements giving it a luxurious edge – confession, this line of thinking is completely a result of watching Polar Express with my nephew over the weekend.
The Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans Rose Gold is a limited edition of 50 pieces but unfortunately if you want to get your hands on one, you can’t. Simon Brette operate in the traditional souscription style of independent watchmakers meaning that all 50 were sold before production even began (essentially the watches are sold to friends, family and collectors who have faith in the watchmaker in order to fund the actual production ahead of time). However, it’s not too late to register your interest in their next release scheduled for winter 2025, which has already been announced as the Chronomètre Artisans Steel.
Price and Specs:
Model:
Simon
Brette Chronomètre Artisans Rose Gold
Case:
39mm
diameter x 10.5mm thickness, 18k rose gold
Dial:
Gold
with DLC coating and hand-engraved ‘battle’ pattern
Water resistance:
30m
(3 bar)
Movement:
Simon
Brette in-house movement, manual winding, 194 parts
Frequency:
18,000
vph (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve:
72h
Functions:
Hours,
minutes, seconds
Strap:
Black
leather
Price:
Subscription,
limited to 50 pieces, sold out
More details at Simon Brette.
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