There’s a lot of nuance to consider when it comes to collecting Rolexes. If you’re looking at vintage models then you’ll find that the desirability of particular references, dials and bracelets can differ wildly from what you may expect. Fortunately, if you’re buying a new or recent Rolex, you don’t need to worry yourself about tropical dials, the more important thing is what bracelet you’re going to get it on. The three main Rolex bracelets are the Jubilee, Oyster and President bracelets, along with the hybrid Oysterflex, so let’s take a look at their history, design and which Rolex models they’re available on.
Oyster Bracelet
Flat, three-link bracelets are some of the most common designs when it comes to metallic bracelets and that makes a lot of sense. They’re simultaneously sporty and elegant as they’re relatively understated while also being very practical and easy to wear. In many regards, they are the baseline bracelet that all others are compared to, which is particularly true of the Rolex Oyster bracelet as it’s one of Rolex’s oldest bracelet designs.
Oyster bracelet in Osytersteel
Oysterclasp on Oyster bracelet
The Oyster dates back to the 1930s, a time period where it was rare for watchmakers to manufacture their own straps and bracelets – most watches were sold without straps, which had to be bought separately. As such, the original bracelet that would come to be known as the Oyster wasn’t made by Rolex but a well-known manufacture called Gay Fréres. A specialist who went on to supply bracelets for Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet and who still exist today – now with Rolex as its parent company.
Fliplock extension link of the Rolex Deepsea
Glidelock extension system on Oyster bracelet
Early iterations of the Oyster pre-empted what would come to define many of Rolex’s most popular designs. It was sporty, tactile, durable and stylish. Over the years the design has been updated several times with the main focus being the end links that connect it to the lugs or clasp, which have changed shape to be more ergonomic and resilient. As one of Rolex’s most versatile bracelet, it’s also offered with the widest selection of clasps including the Glidelock for divers, Easylink rapid extension and Fliplock.
The Rolex Oyster bracelet is available on:
Submariner
Yacht-Master
Explorer
Daytona
Sky-Dweller
Air-King
GMT-Master II
Datejust
Oyster Perpetual
Jubilee Bracelet
The Jubilee bracelet first emerged in 1945 so while it’s technically younger than the Oyster, it’s still a venerable design with plenty of history. It’s a five-link piece with slightly broader external links that flank the middle three. This construction makes it particularly versatile when it comes to materials it looks good in as the smaller links makes it feel more elegant, meaning gold and bi-colour suits it really well.
The Jubilee is intrinsically linked to Rolex heritage, being specifically designed for the Oyster Perpetual Datejust. The Datejust rides the line between sporty and refined and so the Jubilee was designed to compliment both aspects of its personality. Although early models suffered from issues like stretching that made them bad for rigorous activities – modern Jubilees don’t suffer this to anywhere near the same extent. As for the clasp, it’s equipped with the standard Oysterclasp.
The Rolex Jubilee bracelet is available on:
Datejust
GMT-Master II
President Bracelet
One of the most distinctive of Rolex’s bracelets is the President. It first appeared in 1956 alongside the earliest Oyster Perpetual Day-Dates, a model that quickly earned the moniker “Rolex President” after it became the favoured watch of several White House residents. The Day-Date is arguably Rolex’s most classical dress watch and as such is typically presented in precious metal. Hence, precious metals are also a mainstay of the President bracelet.
In terms of style, the President is also a three-link piece like the Oyster but is instantly recognisable thanks to the prominent semi-circle shape of its links. In some regards it’s almost a Jubilee-Oyster hybrid. What really makes it special though is zooming out and looking at the whole piece rather than the individual links because together they create a rolling pattern of hills and valleys that looks eminently more luxurious than the flat Oyster. Adding to that luxury is the use of the concealed crownclasp that is very subtle on the wrist.
The Rolex President bracelet is available on:
Day-Date
Datejust
Oysterflex
A short twist at the end of the tale is the existence of the Oysterflex bracelet. Typically, the term bracelet applies to metallic watch bands while we apply the term strap to alternative materials such as leather, fabric and rubber. Considering that the exterior of the Oysterflex is rubber you might think that it’s a strap but in reality, there are metal components too, making it a hybrid. Specifically, there are two metal blades around which the elastomer exterior is moulded over, giving the bracelet strength while retaining flexibility.
The Rolex Oysterflex’s hybrid nature makes it difficult to define – not fully bracelet but not fully strap either. What is certain is that it’s very comfortable and the perfect fit for Rolex’s sporty models like the Yacht-Master, Daytona and Sky-Dweller. It’s something of an interesting coincidence that in those three collections the Oysterflex is master of land, sea and air. It can be equipped with Rolex’s sporty clasps like the Glidelock.
The Rolex Oysterflex bracelet is available on:
Yacht-Master
Daytona
Sky-Dweller
Oracle Time