Raymond Weil Launch Millesime 35mm and Millesime Chronograph 39mm Collection for 2025

The Millesime from Raymond Weil is arguably one of the best new dress watch collections to emerge on the scene this decade. Its relatively slim proportions and retro, Art Deco styling are perfectly positioned to capture collectors’ imaginations at a time when neo-vintage designs are more popular than ever. Now RW are doubling down on those features by introducing a smaller 35mm version as well as expanding the number of chronographs on offer. Without further ado let’s look at the Millesime 35mm and Millesime Chronograph 39mm Collection for 2025.

Millesime 35mm Collection

There are six references at the new diameter of 35mm, split between four small seconds models and two central seconds models. At 35mm they are particularly small, to the point that you could argue they are decidedly feminine. However, recent trends have been favouring smaller, vintage dimensions in the region of 36mm-38mm so it’s really not that far below the curve of what’s popular or realistic for men to wear. All it takes is a little confidence and anyone can pull it off.

While we’re still talking about the case, there is a slight difference between the small seconds and central seconds versions. The Millesime 35mm small seconds has a thickness of 10.25mm and the central seconds is 9.18mm, more than a full millimetre difference. On the wrist that’s not likely to be noticeable unless you happen to have both watches side by side. They’re both nice and slim. Also, one of the small seconds references has a rose gold PVD coating while one of the central seconds has diamond gem-set lugs (leaning even further in a feminine direction).

For the dials, they’re smaller renditions of the classic display from the 39.5mm models. That means the same Art Deco sector dial influences with sharp hands and a crosshair style motif. For the small seconds there’s a salmon edition, anthracite and mint green, silver, and cream (which is the rose gold model). Then for central seconds there’s green and cream. Of the six options, I most prefer the green, there’s a hint of blue to the tone that makes it a more intense, slightly darker colour than previous green Millesimes.

Powering the Millesime 35mm collection are the calibre 4250 and calibre 4200 depending on which dial layout the watch has. The specs of the two are more-or-less identical with a 41-hour power reserve. It’s a solid enough movement for a watch priced at £1,875 on steel bracelet and £1,775 on leather strap for the small seconds models. The green central seconds is more accessible still at £1,575, while the gems of the cream model put it at £1,875 alongside the small seconds.

Millesime Chronograph 39mm

The Millesime Chronograph is still a relatively new addition to the range, first appearing six months ago when they launched the Largo Winch limited edition. In that inaugural collection there was the special edition as well as a blue and a black version. Now they’ve expanded that original suite with reverse panda and anthracite grey versions.

Starting with the case, the dimensions are given as a round 39mm as opposed to the 39.5mm of the originals. The reverse panda model has a rose gold PVD coating, giving it a slightly more luxe appearance. Though the anthracite version isn’t completely without rose gold as its hands and hour markers are also coated. It’s entirely personal preference but I actually think both models would look more handsome in pure steel throughout with more of a monochrome design.

The movement here is the RW5030 with 63-hour power reserve. That’s pretty good for a chronograph calibre as it allows for plenty of leeway to use the power intensive complication. As a tricompax model it’s equipped with central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds with the small seconds, 30-minute timer and 12-hour timer arranged on the subdials at 9, 3 and 6 o’clock respectively.

In terms of price, the PVD reverse panda and anthracite grey on steel bracelet are both £3,095 while the anthracite on leather strap is £2.995. That feels like an appropriate price given the PVD elements on display as well as the good specs of the movement. I wouldn’t describe these Millesime 2025 launches as groundbreaking or revolutionary but adding more options for collectors is never a bad thing. It feels like only a matter of time until Raymond Weil releases a version that will tick all your boxes, inviting you to pick one up.

More details at Raymond Weil.

​Oracle Time 

Read More