Patek Philippe have just released a series new haute joillerie watches exploring their immaculate gem setting skills. The most striking and exciting of these releases are a pair of Aquanaut Luce Minute Repeaters, the first minute repeaters in the Aquanaut collection. The combination of a haute joillerie case and haute horology movement makes for an impressive spectacle.
First of all, as part of the Luce sub-collection, the Ref. 5260/1455R and 5260/355R are officially listed as women’s watches. However, it’s increasingly the case that aesthetic style has nothing to do with gender and in practical terms it’s only really the size of a watch that determines whether someone of thick or slender wrist can wear it. At a diameter of 38.8mm, the Aquanaut Luce Minute Repeater is for anyone with enough force of personality not to be drowned out by all those diamonds.
While both watches have the same diameter and same rose gold design, there are some notable differences in their dimensions and appearances. Most notably, the Ref. 5260/1455R is presented on a fully set rainbow bracelet and is slightly thicker at 10.7mm while the Ref. 5260/355R is 10.1mm and presented on a composite rubber strap in the traditional style of the sporty chic Aquanaut.
Looking at the dials, there are some slight differences here too. In keeping with the baguette cut sapphires on its bracelet, Ref. 5260/1455R has a full baguette dial with colourful sapphire hour markers, colourful hands and a baguette cut diamond background. Ref. 5260/355R mixes this up a bit by adding some snow set diamonds between the sapphire hour markers – snow setting being the magnum opus of Patek’s jewellers involving the precise setting of an immense number of tiny gems.
Moving from the haute joillerie case and dial to the calibre beneath, we find the Calibre R 27 in both watches. As stated, it’s a minute repeater movement, which means that it has a chiming complication that can sound out the time to the exact minute using a series of hammers and gongs when activated. It’s one of the most prestigious complications in watchmaking and it’s cool to see Patek Philippe expand the range of watches they produce that use it to the Aquanaut. Specs wise the R 27 has a 48-hour power reserve with automatic winding provided by a guilloché micro-rotor.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Minute Repeater really is a complete sensory feast. The visual of the haute joillerie display, the tactile nature of the bracelet or strap and the sonorous complication make it a full spectacle across every conceivable metric. To no one’s surprise, both watches are also price on request so presumably the cost is spectacular as well.
Price and Specs:
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie
5260/355R-001 (strap), 5260/1455R-001 (bracelet)
38.8mm diameter x 10.1mm (strap) or 10.7mm thickness (bracelet), 18k rose gold
18k gold dial plate with baguette cut diamonds in the center, brilliant cut diamonds in the hour circle, 18k gold hour and minute hands (strap) or multi coloured baguette cut sapphire hour markers, 18k hour hand with 3 baguette rubies and minute hands set with 5 baguette cut blue diamonds, hole in the cannon carrying hands set with brilliant cut diamond (bracelet)
Patek Philippe calibre R 27, automatic, 39 jewels
21,600 vph (3 Hz)
48h
Hours, minutes, minute repeater
Matte beige composite material with Aquanaut pattern and additional red and matte white straps with 18k rose gold fold over clasp secured by 4 catches or 18k rose gold bracelet paved with multicoloured baguette cut sapphires with invisible setting with 18k rose gold fold over clasp with 4 catches
Price on request
More details at Patek Philippe.
Oracle Time