It’s over. It’s finally over. After four days of non-stop watch releases and probably more champagne than any man of my income should consume, Watches & Wonders 2025 is finally over. For me, at least. The world’s most important watch fair, home to everyone from Tudor to Patek Philippe, heralds the biggest drop of timepieces of any time of year. Normally I’d use this article as an excuse to sort the few grains of wheat from the pile of wrist-mounted chaff, but this year that’s been harder than ever before. Not because of all the chaff mind you, but the silos well-stocked with golden wheat.
After much deliberation however, I’ve managed to pick my five favourites. Yes, I’ll likely change my mind with a bit of distance from the show, particularly when samples start making it to the UK. But for now, this is my hill. I might not be ready to die on it, but my God the view is fantastic – and these are my favourite watches of Watches & Wonders 2025.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Milanese
Let’s kick things off in style with a big, hefty chunk of gold on yet more finely woven gold. Why the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds doesn’t come on a Milanese bracelet as standard has always confounded me, but seeing their latest version in full rose gold, case, bracelet and dial, has convinced me I’ve been right all along. The Reverso itself probably doesn’t need much introduction – it’s a Reverso – but the new bracelet is fine enough to mould perfectly to your wrist. In case you were worried about sizing, it has a worryingly satisfying clasp that ensures no cutting of previous metal is necessary. Just feed the end in and size as necessary. Beautiful stuff.
More details at Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu
Like my most recent glass of champagne, last year’s Cut was exactly what I wanted from Hermès, but far too small. Everything from the case shape to the applied indexes had me desperate for a 36mm version. But I thought that was all I needed. Apparently, I needed a larger size, a burgundy dial and Hermès’ painfully Hermès suspended time complication in one watch. I needed the Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu. In case you’ve not come across it before – and there’s no reason you should have done – Suspended Time is a funky one. At the press of the button, the watch switches from accurate timekeeping to whimsy as the hands explain emphatically that it’s 11:61. Another press and it snaps back to reality. Must be hard.
More details at Hermès.
Bremont Terra Nova Jump Hours
This is going to be a controversial one, I know, but despite being far from sold from pre-release imagery, Bremont’s quirky Terra Nova Jump Hour has me converted. Maybe it’s the full bronze look (my JLC fantasies are far too pricey). Maybe it’s the Agenhor-built, proper jumping hours, or maybe it’s the running seconds imitating a compass in what is the first time I’ve really appreciated the new logo. But doubters beware, if you go in to try on the shiny new (and perfectly Bremont) brushed dial pilot’s pieces, you may end up with something much, much more interesting. Just make sure you try it on both the re-jigged bracelet and the trench watch-style leather strap. And yes, I’m well aware that a not-insignificant factor is that I’ll never afford the magnificent Cartier Tank à Guichets.
More details at Bremont.
Patek Philippe Twenty-Four Perpetual Calendar
Women’s watches fit for men is a sub-trend I’m here for and while I’ve been remiss in giving Patek Philippe’s Twenty-Four collection the attention it deserves, now I’m all eyes, ears and wrists. Everything from the applied indexes with a level of finishing fit to make collectors weep to the linen – sorry, shantung silk – dial feels like Patek delving into the archives in the best possible way. The upsizing to 36mm ties a perfect unisex bow on top. And let’s be honest, if you’re considering one of the many, many perpetual calendars released this year (seriously, it’s getting as bad as tourbillons), why not make it one from the premier makers of the grand complication? For everyone else, there’s the Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Classic.
More details at Patek Philippe.
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Pop Collection
Apparently, H. Moser & Cie saw what Nomos Glashutte were doing last year – a limited release of incredibly fun, incredibly colourful watches – and though “yeah, that.” This being Moser though, the Endeavour Pop uses stone for its vibrant hues, from deep cuts like lemon chrysoprase to (ethically sourced) coral. Each combination is available in small seconds, tourbillon and minute repeater variants (in different numbers, of course) and each combination is stunning. Moser are missing a trick if they don’t make this an annual thing, and the watermelon colours are particularly cool. I wonder where they got the idea for that colourway from? I’m surprised there’s not a passion fruit in the mix.
More details at H.Moser & Cie.
Oracle Time