Omega Debut Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Collection

The idea of prestige dive watches has always existed but it feels like it’s becoming much more common over the past 12 months. Watches that take the basic foundation of a dive watch but twist them in some manner that makes them more or less impractical to use in serious underwater conditions. The biggest culprit of this is the Rolex Deepsea gold but I think it can be argued that the new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer falls into the same category. Albeit for completely different reasons.

I suppose I should address my claim from the introduction immediately. Worldtimers do not belong on dive watches. It’s long been the prevailing thought that a dive watch’s dial should be as pared back as possible with minimal distractions in order to minimize any risk of the diver misinterpreting or misreading the display with potentially deadly consequences as they calculate their immersion time or decompression stops. A world time display is the complete opposite of minimalist.

Omega’s rendition of the complication, which is based on the Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer, features two extra scales that offer no benefit while you’re underwater. A rotating 24-hour scale in the centre that serves as the second time zone indicator and a peripheral cities ring that denotes the world’s 24 time zones. On top of that, there’s a topographical map of the world in the centre of the dial which is the complete opposite of restrained or utilitarian. To my mind, all this excess information is a hazard on a dive watch.

However, if we change our perception of the watch and stop thinking about using it underwater (which very few people do anyway) and suddenly the watch makes a lot more sense. With its black ceramic case measuring an imposing 45.5mm, this is a pure status watch for global jetsetters. It’s the type of watch I can imagine David Beckham wearing if he wasn’t so closely tied to Tudor. Bold, impressive and macho. The completely blacked out bezel further leans into this visual aesthetic.

There are two versions of the Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer available, the difference between them being the colour of the varnish used in conjunction with the laser ablated design on the dials. The first has a turquoise varnish and the second a grey one. The turquoise one actually reminds me of the Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow from a few years ago, perhaps showing that British design is ahead of the curve.

Beneath the surface of the dial is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8938 with automatic winding and a 60-hour power reserve. The master chronometer certification means it has been tested by METAs to ensure accuracy and reliability in multiple positions and under diverse atmospheric conditions. You can view the movement through the exhibition caseback.

As for price, both versions of the watch are £14,000. As desk-divers I think these watches are perfectly fine. They have a cool, urban feel to them thanks to the black ceramic and the displays are impressively detailed. I just personally struggle with the idea of a watch with 600m water resistance that isn’t fine tuned for the purpose it was originally designed for.

More details at Omega.

​Oracle Time 

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