There is no denying how significantly Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking at La Fabrique Du Temps has evolved. This culminated in the new 40mm Tambour, where Vuitton revitalised the integrated bracelet genre. That may sound overwrought, but the brand’s emphasis on modernity is significant in a world of reissues. What then of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence?
Ahead of LVMH Watch Week, we were expecting a delightful twist on the much-lauded Tambour. But these first images of the Tambour Convergence have surprised us. With this significant release, Louis Vuitton has taken 2025 by the horns with an unexpectedly new and understated look. Where the Tambour is modern in size and execution, the Tambour Convergence has its very own identity. This includes a smaller size (37mm) and, frankly, lugs to die for. If pressed for a term, call it retro-modern, but that doesn’t do justice to this important move by Vuitton.
The first impression is of rakish charm and a big presence for its goldilocks size of only 37mm. Visible at first glance, the case of the Convergence is an all-new design by Vuitton. In a world of vintage reissues, LV offers a sleek emphasis on minimalism, taking inspiration from vintage ‘montres a guichet’ or ‘aperture watches’. This was a niche trend instigated in the thirties and often referenced in the desirable Cartier Tank a Guichet.
There is much to unpack within the new Tambour Convergence, and its beauty lies in exquisite detail work. The cambered, slightly tapering case shape and polished tapering crown are the only recognisable family traits in the 8mm case. There are two distinct models in the debut range, one in solid pink gold and the other a gem set version in platinum. Both have a distinctly brushed sides and the tambour case has a brand-new set of soldered lugs that gives a strong juxtaposed sense of modernity to the recognisable Tambour shape. Instead of a sapphire crystal, the slim brushed bezel frames a curved, solid precious metal plate with a fan-shaped twin display at 12 o’clock
What makes the Tambour Convergence so distinct is the modern, sculpted lugs. With their scalloped, sandblasted sides they contrast the flamboyant guichets or windows. The hour window offers a view of engraved serifed numerals on a circular-brushed disc, with the minute disc underneath. The numerals are filled with a deep blue lacquer, and the distinct Art Deco-inspired windows are set within a fan-shaped recess. In the pink gold reference W9PG11 this is sandblasted, as is a ring between the outer and inner parts of the polished precious metal front.
The French term guichet comes from a grill opening or ticket window, where two rotating discs with the hours and minutes are visible through small openings. We will forgive you if you haven’t seen this bygone concept before. Vuitton takes the idea of the Cartier, most collectors’ reference point, transforming the niche genre to perhaps spark an exciting new trend. You could also cite other independents like the visually similar but fundamentally different Andersen Geneve Jumping Hours. The Tambour Convergence has a quiet and balanced sense of proportionate elegance, with a refined play on contrasting finishes that is taken to another level with the ref. W9PT11 in platinum.
Both Louis Vuitton Convergence references have a capitalised logo at six o’clock. On the platinum version this is crafted into a fan-shaped plaque that balances out the guichets at 12. The entire centre section is set with a dazzling array of diamonds totalling 795, using a technique known as snow-setting, where all stones are fixed so closely that their settings cannot be discerned. It involves a highly experienced gem-setter who combines stones of various sizes to create one seamless glittering surface by hand. The Tambour Convergence in platinum utilises stones in seven sizes and requires 32 hours to complete. The watch is presented on a deep blue calf leather strap echoing the blue lacquer-filled hour and minute numerals.
The case of the Tambour Convergence is made in-house at the newly inaugurated La Fabrique des Boitiers. This is Vuitton’s new case-making facility, and the movement within is also new for the Convergence. The compact Calibre LFT MA01.01 is a slim, automatic movement developed entirely in-house, marking a significant step for the Manufacture. With sandblasted bridgework that exhibits micro-sandblasted edges, the juxtaposition of traditional and modern is continued from the case itself.
Contemporary chronometry standards are ensured by features that include a free-sprung balance with high-precision inertia blocks (masselots). For those who appreciate traditional watchmaking touches, details like the elegantly arched barrel click enhance the visual refinement of the Calibre LFT MA01.01. With this surprising release, we are already looking forward to seeing what other aces Louis Vuitton has up its bespoke sleeves this year.
Price and Specs:
Model:
Louis
Vuitton Tambour Convergence
Ref:
W9PG11
(Rose Gold) W9PT11 (Platinum)
Case:
37mm
diameter x 8mm thickness, polished and brushed Rose Gold or Platinum
Dial:
Precious
metal plate with twin arched windows, or guichets, at 12 o’clock showing rotating hour and minute discs
Water resistance:
30m
(3 bar)
Movement:
Louis
Vuitton manufacture Calibre LFT MA01.01, automatic, 18K pink gold oscillating weight, 26 jewels, 201 parts
Frequency:
28,800
vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve:
45h
Functions:
Hours,
minutes
Strap:
Camel
or blue calf leather with beige calf lining
Price:
£32,500
(Rose Gold), £58,500 (Platinum)
More details at Louis Vuitton
Oracle Time