To say there are an abundance of watches born for adventure could quite possibly be the understatement of the year. Many of the most celebrated watches in history were conceived out of necessity for reliability, function, and the ability to not only survive but also thrive in the most demanding conditions such as the IWC-Porsche Design Compass.
I’ve traversed the path less travelled to spotlight a watch that commenced a 20-year-long co-development agreement between two brand names known the world over. I’ll admit, it’s not an overly obvious choice. In fact, it’s pretty niche. Inside baseball for the Americans reading this. But it’s a watch that tells some of the most fascinating parts of each company’s heritage, while giving an eye-opening insight into what the following decades of development would hold.
The year is 1978, Grease is in cinemas, Stayin’ Alive is on the radio, and you can’t move for wide padded shoulders. In Stuttgart, however, Porsche Design has just announced its second watch in seven years, the Kompassuhr (no prizes for decoding that’s German for compass), and it is distinct in almost every way possible.
Image credit: Bulang & Sons
The watch is an automatic three-hander with a date, a built-in compass and an emergency signalling mirror, both being revealed via a hinged case. All this is packed into a wearable 39mm wide, 12mm thick footprint. Getting to this point was a challenging feat, with a total of five international patents to its name. To realise this remarkably technical piece, Porsche Design approached the International Watch Company, a decision which became a significant moment in the upward trajectory of both collaborators, especially for a flailing IWC.
Between jiving to the Bee Gees and the mass attempt to perfect the Zuko quiff, the 1970s were challenging for watches. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak of 1972 revolutionised the perception of luxury. Four years later, Patek poured more fuel on that fire with the debut of the Nautilus, and at the same time, IWC attempted to enter this world with the release of the Ingénieur SL; a commercial flop.
At the other end of the spectrum, battery-powered watches from Asia had decimated the Swiss watch industry. Their saviour, Swatch, was waiting for them in the 1980s, and all Switzerland could do was shut its factory doors and observe the general public migrate away from inaccurate, anachronistic mechanical movements to accurate, reliable, and much cheaper quartz ones. To put it bluntly, IWC was floundering, unable to adapt to the newfound pace this historically slow-moving industry was experiencing. They needed a fresh way to appeal to a newly converted sports watch market. They needed something to set themselves apart and show the world they were moving with the times. What they needed was innovation.
Image credit: Loupe This
That came in the form of a meeting in 1977 with Ferdinand Alexander Porsche (also known as ‘Butzi’) of Porsche Design, who brought an impressively thorough outline for the Compass. An important caveat to note early on here is the importance of ‘Design’ when I mention Porsche. While Butzi is the grandson of Ferdinand Porsche – the founder of Porsche automobiles – this watch was conceived by Porsche Design, a separate company established by Butzi in 1972 following his exit from Porsche.
His new company entered the wider design and lifestyle world, and there was no doubting his talents, having famously been credited with designing the Porsche 911. While Porsche Design would go on to create sunglasses, pens and shoes, the Compass had more of a personal connection as Butzi had a keen love of the outdoors. He was fond of the idea of having a watch with a compass built into it, and soon after, his team began sketching designs and concepts. Butzi recognised the project’s complexity and knew he would need a capable, experienced partner to realise the idea.
IWC-Porsche Design Compass in black and NATO olive green
He may not have been aware that IWC needed him as much as he needed them, so the timing was fortuitous. The project tested the watchmaker in all areas of production, as the Compass was packed with ground-breaking components, materials, and production techniques.
The case was rendered in either black or ‘NATO olive’ green and was made from aluminium because of its non-magnetic properties. They were then anodised and coated for added durability. The compass was designed to be removed from the watch without tools so it could be placed on a map, was shock-proofed in both directions, moved in self-lubricating bearings (one of the five patents) and was watertight to 30m. Even the bracelet’s links added function as they were 5mm in width to be used as a ruler if necessary.
Image credit: Bulang & Sons
The movement required flawless function, and parts such as springs, balance, and wheels were made from paramagnetic materials. The rotor was 21ct gold for the same reason, and it sat on a mini-bearing fitted with nine ruby balls to aid shock-proofing via yet another patented diaphragm.
After the first reference of the Compass, the 3510, there were a handful of follow-up models, including one with a moonphase (reference 3551) and even a 3510 rendered in 18k yellow gold with a bark finish. However, the Compass and overall partnership with Porsche Design signified a turning point in IWC’s history and greatly shaped the following decades of focus. While exact production numbers are unknown, you can find examples of the 3510 for a few thousand pounds, depending on the condition.
From here, the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker was revitalised, re-introducing the pilot watch, debuting the first chronograph cased in titanium (also a Porsche Design watch), as well as a further mastery of producing anti-magnetic watchmaking. During the 1990s and beyond, their material innovation moved past aluminium and titanium into ceramic, and the overall adoption of a militaristic, purposeful, and modern tool watch appearance slowly but surely shaped the future of IWC. The Porsche Design partnership is also an exemplary, early case of success in collaboration – something IWC still champions today between Top Gun, the Mercedes AMG Petronas F1 Team, and many events worldwide. In many ways, the Compass was IWC’s guiding star saviour, and I’m not so sure anyone could have predicted the extent of influence the spirit of the original Compass 3510 would have on IWC. A true master of the frontier in every sense of the word.
More details at IWC.
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