It was only last month that we placed the loupe over the watch brand Haute-Rive to learn all about this new independent watch brand. Now though, they’ve released a pair of updated Haute-Rive Honoris I models in midnight blue and eggshell white. It’s the perfect opportunity to get into the nitty gritty of their immaculate watchmaking as opposed to looking at the broader picture of the brand and their history.
Starting with the case, the Honoris I measures 42.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.95mm in 18k rose gold. It has a sweeping, circular design with a pronounced bezel that has a crimped-style edge. This grip is important because the bezel is used to wind the manual movement which has an astonishing 1,000-hour power reserve. Using the crown to wind such a behemoth would be totally impractical due to the torque needed to wind the 3-metre-long mainspring and the number of rotations it would require.
The dial is a beautiful combination of smooth enamel and exposed timekeeping elements. It’s the enamel portions that mark these new editions as different to their predecessors in black and white. They instead have either a rich midnight blue colour or a pale eggshell white that’s a little less intense than the stark white of the existing yellow gold edition.
They’re produced in grand feu enamel using a champlevé method. Champlevé is typically considered a metier d’art as it’s used to create highly detailed dials often depicting miniature images, using thin gold wire to outline the shapes. You can see this traditional style of champlevé from brands like Lundis Bleus. Here though, the golden wire is used to delicately outline the various mechanisms that protrude through the enamel surface, making it look almost like a pristine, smooth enamel lake gently lapping at the shore. Creating such a smooth finish is incredibly difficult, requiring in the region of 10-15 firings at 800°C.
While the Haute-Rive Honoris I midnight blue edition is the head turner, striking and vibrant, the eggshell white is the one that really captures my attention. It’s such a gentle, warm tone that works perfectly with the dark reddish-brown of the Haute-Rive logo and peripheral railway minute track. It reminds me of, above everything else, a slightly pale version of a crème brûlée. I want to grab a spoon and dig into the dial.
As for the timekeeping elements, they start with the central hour and minute hands made from 18k rose gold. At 12 o’clock is the giant ‘wheel of time’ as Haute-Rive dub it, an oversize part of the central gear train that adds a sense of mystery to the design. At 6 o’clock is a 60-second tourbillon, which serves as the Honoris I’s small seconds indicator while also combatting the effects of gravity on the movement. The movement is specifically the HR01, sporting the aforementioned 1,000-hour power reserve, fortunately there’s a power reserve indicator on the caseback for keeping track of when it needs winding.
The Haute-Rive Honoris I midnight blue is presented on a matching blue strap while the Honoris I eggshell white is presented on a brown rendition. Both straps are made from alligator giving them a classic dress watch charm and elegance. Neither version is technically a limited edition however they are extremely exclusive due to a limited production of 10 pieces per year. They’re priced at CHF 148,000 (approx. £131,275).
Price and Specs:
Model:
Haute-Rive
Honoris I
Case:
42.5mm
diameter x 11.95mm thickness, 18k rose gold
Dial:
Grand
feu champlevé enamel dial in midnight blue or eggshell white
Water resistance:
30m
(3 bar)
Movement:
Haute-Rive
HR01, manual winding, 288 parts
Frequency:
18,000
vph (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve:
1,000h
Functions:
Hours,
minutes, tourbillon, function selector, power reserve indicator
Strap:
Blue
or brown alligator leather
Price:
CHF
148,000 (approx. £131,275), limited production of 10 pieces per year
More details at Haute-Rive.
Oracle Time