Hajime Asaoka: The Vanguard of Japanese Independent Watchmaking

I love Swiss watchmaking and will shamelessly wave the horological Union Jack. I also deeply respect the resurgence of US craftsmanship and Singapore-based micro-innovation. However, something about the Japanese’s profound focus on perfection sets them apart. Hajime Asaoka, with his growing bouquet of brands, proves the point. And Asaoka-san remains arguably the most influential living Japanese independent watchmaker.

Today, there is an increasing love of independent watchmaking. To the point of F.P.Journe pieces beating the other Swiss über-brands at the gavel at big auctions. This can even be seen as a reason for calming down the stratospheric value surges for Pateks and Rolex watches as the collecting community at large reassess. Diversification is at the heart of my collecting joy, and it seems many other now have the same sentiments. So how are Japanese independents different, and what does Hajime Asaoka in particular offer?

Hajime Asaoka is renowned for his exquisite craftsmanship and Art Deco-infused avant-garde designs. His watches, such as the Tourbillon Noir and Tsunami, are celebrated for their fusion of traditional horology and modern aesthetics. Asaoka-san hails from Kanagawa prefecture in Japan and received his education in product design from the Tokyo University of the Arts, but without touching on watchmaking. Plus, without the strength of being born into a Swiss family of watchmakers, when he did turn his attention to the craft his perspective brought something different to any other watchmaker: a fresh, objective view.

Asaoka’s journey to becoming a self-taught watchmaker all started by reading the iconic George Daniels book Watchmaking. On top of which he watched YouTube tutorials on how to use machines he bought from eBay. Even considering the factor of Japanese self-discipline and perfectionism, Asaoka-san’s story stands out. From his debut in 2005 as an independent watchmaker, it took him only four years to develop an in-house tourbillon. This was the Tourbillon #1 prototype. It led to a membership in the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), a Swiss-based organisation dedicated to fine handmade independent watchmaking. Hajime Asaoka is one of only two Japanese members and will exhibit in Geneva at this year’s AHCI event during Watches and Wonders.

Following from there is arguably the most well-known of Hajime Asaoka’s limited creations, the Tsunami, which stands out as a classical 37mm dress watch. It is imbued with monochrome Art Deco cues, a trademark of Asaoka-san. The strong graphic expression features a a distinct ‘tuxedo’-style dial within a Calatrava-like case, a stepped bezel and a magnificent balance. Turn the Tsunami around and you’ll be faced with the 15mm of oscillating balance in all its glory. This is matched to an extra-large mainspring barrel and a distinct, clean movement aesthetic. All movement components have been manufactured in-house in Hajime Asaoka’s Tokyo workshop, and it’ll take on any strong Swiss piece in the horological ring.

For 2024, the Tsunami ‘Art Deco’ underlined its elegant inspiration with a vibrant blue and a striated dial centre that got it nominated for a GPHG award. In fact, Asaoka-associated Otsuka Lotec was one of the two other Japanese nominees, with Jiro Katayama taking home a prize for his steampunk-luxe No.6. It goes to show how over the years Hajime has spearheaded a Japanese contingent of independent watchmakers who have followed his path to global success.

In 2025, Hajime Asaoka’s Art Deco touch will become remarkably literal with the Montre a Tact (at time of writing still in the concept stage), unusually missing a crystal. The bezel appears almost flush with the case edge, with relief and raised polished numerals that transcend aesthetic purpose. Instead of a dial, there is a rotating chapter ring with a raised dot for hours, encircling a centre disc. This has a totemic raised minute hand with a distinct architectural flair. It is a watch that offers a unique perspective on watch design, inspired by a Breguet pocket watch. One that could be read in the dark by tactility alone, and of course, for the blind and visually impaired – similar in concept to Eone.

Asked about his new creation, Hajime Asaoka tells me: “This year’s new model is the Montre A Tact. It is watch that allows you to tell the time by touch. The design incorporates features to ensure that the movement is not damaged even if they are touched forcefully. When arranging it, I made the pivot shaft of the watch hands very thick and supported it with a strong ball bearing. I also added a minute hand to improve its practicality. The Montre A Tact’s hands are vulnerable to being knocked out of alignment, a problem my new watch solves with a self-correcting mechanism. The images are design proposals, and the watch that is made may be slightly different.”

As CEO of Precision Watch Tokyo Co., Asaoka-san has developed two other mid-priced brands, supporting Jiro Katayama’s Otsuka Lotec. Kurono Tokyo has an increasing number of collectors who want to be a part of its club-like atmosphere. Ironically, the Kurono (phonetical enunciation of Chrono in Japanese) Tokyo brand was created by Asaoka for a simple reason. To afford him to wear his own designs. Kurono Tokyo offers strong quality in the £2,000-£4,000 segment with movements from Seiko and Miyota, and you will easily be pulled in by the Japanese craftsmanship. Add a low-production rarity which makes you feel part of a friendly Japanese gentleman’s club, and it is easy to see the appeal.

There is a vast distance in price between Kurono Tokyo and Asaoka-san’s £100K creations. However, distinct similarities are present, with an understated elegance and the characteristic flavour of Japanese culture. The dynamic, soft lines of the 34mm to 38mm cases usually have a fully polished finish, emphasising sleek ergonomics. With polished feuille hands on a mocha-tinged lacquered dial, my Grand Urushi Aoyama Edition above is a distilled example of the brand. Like many of the Kurono dials, its depth comes from the traditional technique of hand-applied Urushi lacquer. This is extracted and refined from tree sap in minute quantities, giving a deep gloss similar to Grand Feu enamel. The dial production has a high fail rate and weeks of drying time before assembly.

All watches by Hajime Asaoka have a discreet charm, strong dial art and sizing that makes for instant wearability. Within his Haute creations, there is a strong emphasis on traditional craftsmanship. Hajime Asaoka’s love of big balance wheels are a vivid reminder of the life within, an always mesmerising detail. With this year’s Montre a Tact project, we will see a new side to Asaoka-san. But it is one that still leans on an evocative and un unusual Art Deco aesthetic. Even the experimental Montre a Tact has an Asaoka signature. And it is one that that grabs your attention with the smallest of details. And for a regular watch lover whose budget remains under the mid-priced £5K ceiling, his sub-brand Kurono Tokyo offers a lot. Even for the most astute collector of wristwear.

More details at Hajime Asaoka.

​Oracle Time 

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