Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC GT Watch Review

Formex are one of the first brands that come to mind when I think of great value titanium field watches with the Formex Field and with the Essence Leggera they’ve also explored forged carbon. Now they’re pushing the boat even further by taking on the world of ceramic thanks to the new Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC, which I’ve had on the wrist for the past week around the office.

One of the reasons I’ve been unable to put the watch down is that the bracelet fits really well. Which might sound like an odd thing to celebrate but it’s actually a core feature of the watch because the bracelet features the world’s first ceramic micro-adjustment system. It’s very simple to operate, just press the button in the exterior of the clasp and slide the bracelet until it reaches the perfect position – it gives you about 1cm leeway, which doesn’t sound like a lot but has a dramatic impact on how loose or tight it is on the wrist. The bracelet is also made really well in a chunky, H-link style with vertically brushed, ceramic links.

In fact, the entire case is made from brushed ceramic with a diamond polished bezel and anglage facets along the edge of the round design. The finish has to be produced with diamond tools because it’s one of the few materials harder than ceramic once the zirconium oxide powder has been baked. Structurally, it measures 41mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.2mm, so it’s not a small watch. However, it feels proportional and thanks to ceramic being 30% lighter than steel, it’s really not that heavy to wear all day.

On an aesthetic level, it retains the quasi-industrial vibe of the Essence with its exposed screws in the shoulders of the case. That architectural vibe is matched by the skeletonised dial, which reveals the inner workings of the movement. An exposed framework like scaffolding around a futuristic building made of whirring gears.

One thing I haven’t touched on yet is there are actually four versions of the Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC being produced, a GT edition and three versions of the Stradale. The version I have here is the GT, which means it has rose gold hands and hour markers. The Stradale variants instead have black with various colours of lume depending on the edition. I’m not completely sold on the use of luxurious gold accents in combination with the industrial style as they feel a bit out of place. However, the rosy colour does make them stand out against the grey metal of the movement, boosting legibility, which is often a complaint with skeleton displays.

The movement that’s on display is the SW200-1 SC, the skeletonized edition of a Swiss staple. As noted in the watch’s name, it’s also the COSC chronometer grade of the movement, meaning it has improved accuracy and has been tested in multiple positions to ensure reliability. It does look pretty spectacular in skeleton form, it’s very easy to distract yourself from any task by studying the depth of finish on display as well as the constant motion of the balance spring. I also particularly like the almost imperceptible unwinding of the main spring as the power reserve depletes, serving as an approximate power reserve indicator (41-hours if you’re wondering).

In terms of price, the Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC GT edition is £3,850, £100 more than the Stradale options. An over-reaction to that price would be to say, £4k for a Sellita movement is wild. However, between the COSC chronometer certification, skeleton display and more important than either of those, full ceramic case and bracelet, that’s a good price. Whether it suits your personal style is a decision that only you can make.

​Oracle Time 

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