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Raymond Weil Launch Versatile Freelancer Complete Calendar and Freelancer Skeleton Cushion

Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar

Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar

Watches & Wonders, the biggest watch show in the industry, is due to take place in just over two weeks’ time during the first week of April. With it, the vast majority of brands both big and small will be revealing their new 2025 collections. Today, Raymond Weil become the first of the attending brands to unveil the watches that they will be debuting at the event. They’re two very different releases for the Freelancer collection, the Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar and Freelancer Skeleton Cushion Limited Edition.

Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar

Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar
Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar

Following the success of the Millisimé in 2023 with its Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award winning design, it’s perhaps not surprising that there has been a renewed focus and interest in Raymond Weil’s vintage-style offerings. The Freelancer Complete Calendar is a natural development of that, inspired by some of the great calendar watches throughout history. It’s also Raymond Weil’s first complete calendar, making it something of a landmark moment for the brand.

Structurally, the new watch has a 40mm diameter and is available in two references – one in plain steel and the other also in steel but with a rose gold PVD coating. It has a very classy and traditional design with a circular, polished bezel and long lugs that have a gently facetted edge. On the steel model those lugs lead into a 5-link bracelet while the gold is presented on a brown leather strap, which again feels very traditional for a dress watch.

Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar
Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar

As I mentioned briefly, it’s apparent that the Freelancer Complete Calendar is inspired by famous calendar watches and nowhere is that more apparent than the dial. The rose gold model has a warm, cream dial with gold plated hour markers and the steel is blue. With its day and month windows below 12 o’clock balanced at 6 o’clock by the moonphase and date subdial, the display has a strong visual similarity to icons like Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications and the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle.

Of course, the Raymond Weil is available at a much more accessible price point than those haute horological giants at £3,195. Thanks largely to the RW3281 automatic movement being a complete calendar rather than annual or perpetual. What that means is it will simply need regular adjustment at the end of months with less than 31 days, like the vast majority of date complications we come across in day-to-day life. Plus, with a 56-hour power reserve and a variety of functions including moonphase, it offers solid value at that price. Also with Carl F. Bucherer bowing out of the game, Raymond Weil are perfectly positioned to take over the mid-range luxury space.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Raymond

Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar

Ref:
2766-PC5-64001

(rose gold PVD) / 2766-ST-50001 (stainless steel)

Case:
40mm

diameter x 10.15mm thickness, stainless steel with rose gold PVD coating or stainless steel

Dial:
Dune

colour with sunray satin finish (rose gold OVD) or blue with sunray satin finish (steel)

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Raymond

Weil RW3281, automatic

Power reserve:
56h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, complete calendar

Strap:
Brown

calfskin leather with rose gold PVD-coated ‘RW’ folding clasp (rose gold PVD) or stainless steel bracelet with ‘RW’ folding clasp (steel)

Price:
£3,195

(excl. VAT)

Raymond Weil Freelancer Skeleton Cushion Limited Edition

Raymond Weil Freelancer Skeleton Cushion Limited Edition

Alongside the refined dress watch vibes of the Freelancer Complete Calendar comes a complete change of pace with the Freelancer Skeleton Cushion Limited Edition. Rather than elegant it feels sporty and urban with its black PVD coated steel case in a much more daring cushion shape with rounded corners. Measuring 40mm x 40mm it’s well-proportioned with a 10.5mm thickness and relatively short lugs leading into a black calfskin leather strap.

Naturally, as a skeleton edition, the dial has been openworked to show as much of the movement as possible. It feels like the first true skeleton watch I’ve seen in a little while, as recently other brands have been somewhat erroneously applying the terms to watches with sapphire dials (such as the BR-05 Arctic Blue) which is not really what skeletonization is. Skeletonization means removing material from the dial and movement to leave only a framework holding the vital components in place, hence the term skeleton. A fast and loose rule you can apply is if you can see your wrist through the dial when you wear it, that’s a skeleton. If not, it’s openworked.

Raymond Weil Freelancer Skeleton Cushion Limited Edition

The movement on display here is the RW1212, an automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve. It looks pretty impressive with the exposed balance wheel at 6 o’clock and power barrel at 12. It’s actually a little uncommon to see the mainspring of the barrel be exposed even in a skeleton display, giving a glimpse of where the power is stored as potential energy when you wind the watch. On a style front, skeleton displays don’t appeal to everyone, often because they can be difficult to read, but I think the Freelancer Skeleton Cushion Limited Edition is actually one of the more legible ones with fairly broad, lumed hands and a peripheral hour and minute track.

As for pricing and availability, it’s priced at £2,995 in a limited edition of 500 pieces. In parallel with the Complete Calendar the two new watches offer very different interpretations of the Freelancer. It showcases the collection’s versatility without even touching on the fact that there are also dive watch and chronograph variants.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Raymond

Weil Freelancer RW1212 Skeleton Cushion Limited Edition

Ref:
2795-BKC-20000

Case:
40mm

diameter x 10.5mm thickness, black PVD-coated stainless steel

Dial:
Black

galvanic openworked

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Raymond

Weil calibre RW1212, automatic

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
38h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes

Strap:
Genuine

black calfskin, black PVD-coated ‘RW’ folding clasp with double pusher safety

Price:
£2,995

(excl. VAT), limited to 500 pieces.

More details at Raymond Weil.

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Venezianico Nereide Damasco Introduces Traditional Metalworking Techniques to Venetian Diver

Venezianico Nereide Damasco

Venezianico Nereide Damasco

After recent outings featuring meteorite and hand-crafted, aged bronze Venezianico are continuing their exploration of exotic and unusual dials. Specifically, the Venice-based brand have launched the Venezianico Nereide Damasco, featuring a Damascus steel dial. It uses traditional metalworking techniques to offer a funky interpretation of their classic steel dive watch.

Damascus steel, if you’re unfamiliar, is a type of hardened steel from the Middle East made using ancient techniques that involve repeated layering and hammering processes. The layering results in a distinctive wavy pattern across its surface that makes for a stunning pattern when presented on a watch’s dial. Other examples in the industry include Oceaneva’s Deep Marine II Damascus and virtually anything by GoS Watches from Sweden.

Venezianico Nereide Damasco

Naturally, as this is Venezianico we’re talking about, the reasoning behind creating the Nereide Damasco ties in to the history of Venice. In ancient times the Mediterranean was the gateway between Europe and the Middle East for trade and as Venice was the greatest hub of trade in the entire sea, a high proportion of Damascus steel that entered Europe did so through Venice. Additionally, the ripple effect can be interpreted as a representation of the lapping waves through Venice’s myriad waterways.

Venezianico Nereide Damasco

The metal works well for a dive watch because the dark grey tone provides a strong contrast to the bright, lumed elements of the hands and hour markers. The Nereide’s dial is also naturally layered with the peripheral minute track and baton indexes sitting above the main dial, so it thematically emulates the layered Damascus steel too. In order to match the grey tone of the dial, the unidirectional diving bezel is also in steel grey with a lovely circular brushed finish.

Venezianico Nereide Damasco

Powering the Venezianico Nereide Damasco is the Sellita SW200-1 with a custom, openworked rotor. It features Côtes de Genève finishing and a red gold galvanic coating adding a rich lustre visible through the exhibition caseback. It’s a widely used calibre with a 38-hour power reserve – it would be nice to have a longer reserve but it’s probably boring to hear me say that at this point.

The Venezianico Nereide Damasco is a limited edition of 500 pieces with a pre-order price of €1,000 and a retail of €1,250 (approx. £840/£1,050). It goes up for pre-order on March 27th meaning you have just under two weeks to decide if you need some Damascus steel in your life.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Venezianico

Nereide Damasco

Case:
42mm

diameter, stainless steel

Dial:
Damascus

steel disc

Water resistance:
200m

(20 bar)

Movement:
Sellita

calibre SW200-1, automatic, 26 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
38h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date

Strap:
Stainless

steel bracelet

Price:
Pre-order

for €1,000 (approx. £840) €1,250 RRP (approx. £1,050), limited to 500 pieces

More details at Venezianico.

 

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Oracle Discovers: Watch Accessories for March 2025

Veblenist Leather Straps

Johnson’s of Lichfield Bespoke Winder Safe, £12,000

Johnson’s of Lichfield are a luxury safe retailer specialising in designing robust custom watch and jewellery safes for your home. This elegant, modern safe from their Luxe range includes custom chrome bolt pockets and hardware, as well as reliable Rapport Watch Winders. These beautiful pieces of furniture are all made to order letting the client choose their exact specification. A practical and great addition to any watch collector’s home. Additionally, they are insurance approved.

Available at Johnson’s of Lichfield.

Nixie Fab La NBnixie N° 1 tubes ZIN 70

Nixie Fab La NBnixie N° 1 tubes ZIN 70

More of a horological accessory for your home, Nixie Fab produce a wide range of Nixie tube clocks. Nixie tubes use light to display numerals making for a soft glowing time display with a cool retro vibe harking back to the 1970s. This edition features a stand made of ebonised oak and raw lime wood, creating a dynamic contrast between the light and dark wood. It also features wi-fi connectivity to automatically correct itself to local time.

Available at Nixie Fab.

Brown Safe Chronos Series Safe, from $106,945 (approx. £86,750)

Brown Safe Chronos Series Safe
Brown Safe Chronos Series Safe

Brown Safe Manufacturing has been producing high quality jewellery safes for almost half a century. From fortresses built to withstand severe attack to luxury safes finished in style with exotic metal and wood interiors, their safes are diverse and practical. Their premier Chronos Series collection can have its interiors completely customised and features multiple watch winder options to keep your collection ticking even when stored for multiple days. It’s available at multiple sizes as well to fit your home perfectly.

Available at Brown Safe.

Veblenist Leather Straps, $105 – $255 (approx. £85-£200)

Veblenist Leather Straps

Bringing some Chicago style to your wrist, Veblenist are a strap manufacturer based in the Windy City. They believe in combining traditional techniques with modern machinery to create stylish and individual straps. Between classic shell cordovan, NATO style suede and perforated racing Rallye style numbers, there’s plenty of choice suitable for an equally diverse range of watches. The handmade designs particularly suit vintage timepieces with a retro flair. They also produce a range of canvas and rubber pieces.

Available from Veblenist.

Daily Watch Suitcase for 15 Watches, £339

Daily Watch Suitcase for 15 Watches

While a watch roll can keep a couple of watches safe on your travels, protecting a larger collection takes something more substantial. The Daily Watch Suitcase for 15 Watches uses secure fastenings to keep your watches safe. It also works perfectly for home storage and display with its refined finishing and luxury leather exterior. The removable velvet cushions mean it can store watches of all size in safety and security.

Available from Daily Watch.

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Paulin Watches Zapata Modul Collaboration Watch Blurs the Lines Between Watches and Art

Paulin Watches Zapata Modul

Paulin Watches Zapata Modul

I know when it comes to British microbrands everyone is talking about Studio Underd0g at the moment as well as brands like Fears and Christopher Ward, but the rich depth of British watch design goes so much further. Case in point the new Paulin Watches Zapata Modul, a watch made in collaboration with a respected American artist, Crystal Zapata. It has one of the most distinctive and unusual dials I have ever seen and it rocks.

While you might not know the name Crystal Zapata, it’s possible that you’re aware of some of her work. Based in Chicago and a member of Type Directors Club, Society of Typographic Arts, and AIGA, she’s worked with Nike, Apple, Levi’s, and Calvin Klein to name but a few. She has a loud, graphic style that really captures the attention, which is arguably why top brands commission her for posters and features. It’s kind of inspired of Paulin to see that dynamic and extensive body of work and apply it to a watch.

Paulin Watches Zapata Modul

Jumping to the dial, it features a stylised 12/3/6/9 display. Which is a classic dial layout where you only have Arabic numerals in the cardinal positions with the intervening hours typically denoted by shaped indexes. Here though, Zapata has stretched and blurred the Arabic numerals so that they occupy the entire span of the watch’s display. It’s inspired by the big picture of horology, timekeeping on an astronomical scale as the Earth rotates around the sun.

Paulin Watches Zapata Modul

Think of it like one of those long exposure pictures of the night sky where the stars get blurred out as they appear to spin overhead. Stars are extra relevant because the minute track features small five-pointed stars every five minutes and the seconds hand counterweight is also a star. The idea of constellations is also important in how the blurred design was actually implemented on the dial, as Crystal’s design had to be translated into an actual actionable manufacturing process. They achieved this by using lots of small dots, like a constellation, that allow a bit of the dial colour from below to bleed through, creating the impression of a blur.

Paulin Watches Zapata Modul

Speaking of dial colour, there are two to choose from. The first is an off-white with sky blue numerals and the second is a dark blue with white numerals – each inspired by a different time of day. Both versions are nice but for me it has to be that day version with the pale dial and blue markings, it fits the retro, 70s/80s aesthetic that Paulin has cultivated so well.

Structurally and mechanically, the Paulin Watches Zapata Modul is identical to the Modul Quartz. Meaning it measures a svelte 35mm x 8.2mm with a turtle-like shape and brushed lugs. The movement inside is the ETA 955.112. It would be nice if there were a mechanical edition of the watch as well but that’s sadly not the case.

Paulin Watches Zapata Modul
Paulin Watches Zapata Modul

Priced at £450, it’s a fun, funky watch that matches the current tone of British watch design perfectly. Quirky and unafraid of unusual concepts and vibrant colours.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Paulin

Watches Zapata Modul

Case:
35mm

diameter x 8.2mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Laquer

with unique blurred effect on a subtle sunburst background

Water resistance:
50m

(5 bar)

Movement:
ETA

F06 quartz movement

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Stainless

steel mesh bracelet

Price:
£375

(day), £450 (night)

More details at Paulin.

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JC Biver Automatique Watch Review

Biver Automatique Rose Gold

Biver Automatique Rose Gold

The old adage goes that ‘quality is in the details’. Honestly, it’s a phrase we hear enough that it’s hard to take seriously, like ‘limited edition’ or ‘made in Switzerland’. But every now and then comes a watch that not only embodies the concept, but rams it so far down your throat you’ll be passing bevelling tools for weeks. That watch is the Biver Automatique.

If you’ve never heard the name Jean-Claude Biver you’re either new to the watch industry or never really branched out past Rolex. He’s the man many credit for revitalising the watch industry in its post-Quartz Crisis slump in the 1990s. You have him to thank for Blancpain, Hublot, and a large part of modern Omega (including their obsession with ambassadors). He has historically been a tour de force and, when he retired a few years back, savvy gamblers didn’t bet on him staying away for long.

Biver Automatique Rose Gold

Last year, the triumphant return of Jean-Claude happened with the advent of Biver and, honestly, it was more of a surprise than you might think. Not that JCB was back of course, but just what he was back with: beautiful, classically built watches drenched in all the trappings of haute horology. He also had his son in tow, who is ostensibly the driving force behind the new brand.

They certainly hit the ground running, with Carillon minute repeaters with tourbillons and jewels aplenty. They were gorgeous and demonstrated a certain mission statement: that every part of the watch, inside and out was finished to perfection. The problem is that nice an idea as that is, it was too easy to get distracted by everything else. When you have a tourbillon, repeater and a gem-set bezel, knowing the barrels inside have been flawlessly finished just doesn’t have the pull it should. And so we have the Automatique, a watch that pulls back on the over-the-top stuff to show off that mission statement all the more clearly.

Biver Automatique Rose Gold
Biver Automatique Rose Gold

Let’s not beat around the bush, the Biver Automatique is a beauty. It might just be the finest dress watch I’ve tried on in years. The 39mm rose gold case has some pretty prominent lugs, but at 10mm thick it wears phenomenally well and the slim bezel leaves plenty of room for the dial to breathe. That dial, in matching rose gold has an air of Laurent Ferrier in its streamlined minimalism, albeit with much more ornate, faceted black indexes.

The detail here comes, of course, from the finishing, with alternating circles of radial and circular brushing. On paper it doesn’t sound like it would be a dramatic difference but, well, look at the thing. Finished with a stunningly sharp handset and a solid rose gold chapter ring, it’s the most nuanced bit of monochrome I’ve ever worn. The thing is, that’s not even the main event.

We’re used to seeing a well-finished movement these days, especially at this level. You flip a Vacheron or Patek over, you know it’s going to be something special. The Biver Automatique though laughs at your Poincon de Geneve.

Biver Automatique Rose Gold
Biver Automatique Rose Gold

Thanks to the microrotor construction, the full movement is on display and what a display it puts on. The rose gold rotor has a fan-like guilloche pattern, while the main bridges opt for a more classical clous de Paris style motif, all painfully precise and light-catching. But it doesn’t stop there. The remaining metalwork is all brushed, every edge is bevelled. The metal underneath offers plenty of brushing and perlage, even when you’re barely ever going to see it. The JCB logo is hidden 90% of the time, nestled as it is in the microrotor track. It’s the level of obsessive detail that makes me wonder if, at the same time we appreciate its details, we shouldn’t stage an intervention. Engrave a message on the balance cock if you’re being held against your will.

Biver Automatique Rose Gold

The movement is a Dubois Depraz-made number dubbed the JCB-003, with a not insubstantial 65-hour power reserve. I can’t attest to how quickly it winds with the micro-rotor, but it has manual-wind anyway so that’s not really a problem. Interestingly, it’s a movement that’s been designed from the ground up to be versatile, ready and willing to take on a host of complications. What those complications will be only time will tell. So far JCB have built minute repeaters and automatics; to say it’ll be something between those includes 99% of complications in the world.

It’s worth noting that none of the finishing actually adds to the chronometric performance of course. Hell, the chance of damaging parts during finishing makes it more likely there could be a timekeeping problem and the movement needs to be re-done. So why, why do this?

Biver Automatique Rose Gold

Well, we’re talking about it, that’s one reason. It’s also incredibly beautiful, so there’s another. Perhaps the biggest reason though takes me back full circle to the beginning. We’ve seen plenty of minute repeaters over the past few years and more tourbillons than 1 can count. We’ve seen metiers d’art engravings, marquetry and enamelling of every stripe and colour. But in the Biver Automatique is a watch that can quietly take its place with the best of them. It’s not flashy (at least, no more so than any other solid gold dress watch), it’s not loud and most of its qualities are hidden on its handsome backside. If there’s a watch that defines the saying that ‘quality is in the details’, it’s this. Which for the price, feels about right.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Biver

Automatique Rose Gold

Case:
39mm

diameter x 10mm thickness, 18k rose gold

Dial:
18k

rose gold with circular and straight satin finish

Water resistance:
80m

(8 bar)

Movement:
Dubois

Depraz calibre JCB-003, automatic, microrotor

Power reserve:
65h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Leather

Bracelet

Price:
CHF

75,000 (approx. £66,200)

More details at Biver.

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Oracle Recommends: Watches for March 2025

Selten Salvage Bronze Scorched

Selten Salvage Bronze Scorched

Featuring a hand patinated dial and a CuSn8 Bronze case that will uniquely age, the Selten Salvage Bronze Scorched lives up to the brand’s meaning of rare in German. The Miyota 9039 Automatic movement, ceramic bezel insert and 39mm sizing on the other hand are all common for a reason thanks to their excellent style and utility.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Selten

Salvage Bronze Scorched

Case:
39mm

diameter x 12.25mm thickness, CuSn8 bronze

Dial:
Hand

patinated weather texture, one of a kind

Water resistance:
200m

(20 bar)

Movement:
Miyota

calibre 9039, automatic, 24 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
42h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Black

FKM rubber

Price:
$659

(approx. £508)

More details at Selten Watch.

WRK ACF-02

WRK ACF-02

Crafted from superior grade 5 titanium and ergonomically designed to be soft on the wrist, WRK watches ACF-02 improves on their already very cool first launch with an upgraded movement and lower price point. It features a tonneau case shape with rounded corners that give it a strong barrel appearance, which is what tonneaus are named after.

Price and Specs:


Model:
WRK

ACF-02

Case:
38mm

diameter x 41mm length x 8.5mm thickness, grade 5 titanium

Dial:
Open

worked

Water resistance:
50m

Movement:
Telos

calibre AMB-01/1 FLAT, automatic, Micro-rotor, Double barrel

Frequency:
28,800vph

(4Hz)

Power reserve:
72h

Functions:
Hours,

Minutes

Strap:
Technical

fabric or suede leather with hook-and-loop fastener

Price:
Approx.

£20,000

More details at WRK.

Anoma A1 Slate

Anoma A1 Slate

Anoma go back to black and introduce a vertically brushed slate dial with contrasting lacquer triangles for their latest A1 Slate. The well-proportioned, signature rounded triangle case (inspired by a mid-century modern table) goes untouched, thank God. Inside is the well trusted Sellita SW100.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Anoma

A1 Slate

Case:
39mm

diameter x 38mm length x 9.45mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Vertically

brushed slate, lacquer triangles

Water resistance:
50m

(5 bar)

Movement:
Sellita

calibre SW100, automatic

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
38-42h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes

Strap:
Grey

grained calf & cream pigskin

Price:
£1,800

(excluding VAT)

More details at Anoma.

Papar Anillo GMT

Papar Anillo GMT

The Papar Anillo GMT (Rose Gold PVD) features an angular 36mm case that borders on brutalist but somehow manages to keep dress watch sensibilities. With a day/night indicator a 12 o’clock and a rotating 24-hour disc it’s a great travel companion. It’s also convenient to service thanks to its trusted Miyota 9075 movement.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Papar

Anillo GMT

Case:
36mm

diameter x 12.1mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Beige

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Miyota

calibre 9075, automatic, 24 jewels

Frequency:
28,800vph

(4 Hz)

Power reserve:
42h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, GMT, day/night indicator, rotating 24-hour disc

Strap:
Grey

fabric

Price:
$750

(approx. £580)

More details at Papar.

Monceau Model 01

Monceau Model 01

Monceau’s debut watch, the Model 01, is due to launch on Kickstarter in May. Though the Monceau name itself isn’t new to watchmaking as the original brand that existed more than 50 years ago was sadly one of those to fall victim of the quartz crisis. The new watch features a 39mm steel case with a cool contoured dial and bar indexes.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Monceau

Model 01

Case:
39mm

diameter x 8.4mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Contoured

Water resistance:
200m

(20 bar)

Movement:
Sellita

calibre SW210-1, manual winding, 19 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
42h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date

Strap:
Stainless

steel bracelet

Price:
TBC,

register interest below

More details at Monceau Watches.

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MB&F Launch M.A.D.2 by Eric Giroud Inspired by 1990s Rave Scene

MB&F M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud

MB&F M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud

The idea for M.A.D Editions first emerged in 2014 as a concept for MB&F to create an accessible sister brand, but that fell through due to projected operating costs. Then, in 2020 when the pandemic meant that running even one brand was incredibly difficult, they decided to give that original accessible concept a try though not as a brand, as a standalone one-off edition. It was an instant hit. After several editions and variations of the original M.A.D.1 they realised that, wait a minute, we have created a brand after all, just without all the extra hassle of actually being a separate brand. And if M.A.D is a brand then the M.A.D.1 needs to be followed by the M.A.D.2, which is what they have released today.

MB&F M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud

One of the defining features of the original M.A.D.1 is that it was the brainchild and passion project of Maximillian Büsser. As such, in order to create a satisfying follow up with the same level of passion involved, Max decided to give (more or less) free rein over the M.A.D.2 to long time MB&F collaborator and designer Eric Giroud, which is why you’ll sometimes see the watch called the M.A.D.2 by Eric Giroud. Giroud has then used this opportunity to finally bring some of his earliest design concepts to life that have never made it into production before.

MB&F M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud

The first of those Giroud concepts, which defines the case, is called almond. It refers to the extremely smooth finish of the 42mm diameter steel case and the gently curving arc of the round bezel, like an almond. It also finds itself expressed through the almond shaped indicators on the twin subdials in the centre of the display, which mark the bidirectional jumping hours on the left and minutes on the right. Though those subdials are also connected to Giroud’s second concept.

MB&F M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud
MB&F M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud

When you think about watch designers you probably picture fairly reserved individuals who spend most of their time alone in labs pouring over mechanisms. However, that is not Giroud’s story. In the 1990s he was at the forefront of the Lausanne rave scene, regularly found at the club Moulin à Danses, aka MAD. That translates to the M.A.D.2 via the fact that those central subdials represent a DJ’s deck. Below them, the main disk of the dial (available in orange or green) is snailed with additional circular brushing to give it the impression of a vinyl record. Lastly, around the perimeter of the display is a lower track with bright dots on it that move creating a strobe light effect.

MB&F M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud

The movement of that stroboscopic platter, as MB&F describe it, is actually the automatic rotor that’s visible from both the front and rear of the watch. The movement that it’s attached to is the La Joux-Perret G101, the same movement that powers the M.A.D.1, with the exception that MB&F have developed a special module for it in order to add jumping hours. It has a 64-hour power reserve.

MB&F M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud
MB&F M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud

Now, as for availability, the M.A.D Editions have always been available via one of two methods. Either you get a direct invitation to buy the watch by being a member of the MB&F ‘Tribe and Friends’ or get your chance through an allocation raffle open to the public. For the M.A.D.2, the orange edition is exclusive to the Tribe and Friends and the green version is being raffled. Both versions have a price of CHF 2,900 excl. VAT (approx. £2,540). At time of writing exact numbers are unknown, but it’ll be approximately 2,000 pieces. That’s a solid number, but between the story of Giroud’s raving past and the fact that the watch is simply very cool, I imagine the number of people entering the raffle will still exceed production by a wide, wide margin.

Price and Specs:


Model:
MB&F

M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud

Case:
42mm

diameter x 12.3mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Green

or orange with two raised subdials on top of a grooved base dial

Water resistance:
30m

(3 bar)

Movement:
La

Joux-Perret calibre G101, automatic, 24 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
64h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes

Strap:
Leather

Price:
CHF

2,900 (approx. £2,540), orange edition is exclusive to the Tribe and Friends and green will be raffled

More details at MB&F.

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G-Shock GA-V01 has the innovative Shock Release Hand, a magnetically attached minute hand

G-Shock GA-V01 has the innovative Shock Release Hand, a magnetically attached minute hand G-SHOCK GA-V01 SHOCK RELEASE HANDG-Shock U.K. and Casio Australia now have the G-Shock GA-V01 series listed as an upcoming release. While we knew that the GA-V01 has the same functions as the GA-2100 but with an estimated 10-year battery life, the new marketing material from the U.K. and Australia explains that the watch has a new feature known as […]

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Citizen Launch The Citizen Washi Paper Dial 30th Anniversary Editions

Citizen Washi Paper Dial 30th Anniversary Edition

Citizen Washi Paper Dial 30th Anniversary Edition

Sometimes it feels like brands set out to be intentionally confusing and few watches are quite so confusing to talk about than Citizen’s Citizen. Citizen being both the name of the brand and the name of the collection. So, to make it clear when we’re talking about Citizen’s 30th anniversary and the launch of The Citizen Washi Paper Dial 30th Anniversary Edition we’re talking about the watch model, not the brand. The brand can trace its heritage back to 1918 so is a fair bit more venerable than a spry 30.

Citizen Washi Paper Dial 30th Anniversary Edition

There are two watches in the 30th anniversary, limited edition collection, both with distinct aesthetics but sharing the same core construction. They both measure 38.3mm x 12.2mm and are made from Citizen’s Super Titanium with coloured duratect coatings. Ref. AQ4106-00A has a sakura pink duratect coating, giving it a rose gold appearance while Ref. AQ4100-22L has the high lustre of the platinum duratect. Duratect is Citizen’s proprietary surface hardening technology that alleviates some of drawbacks of titanium including its poor scratch resistance.

Citizen Washi Paper Dial 30th Anniversary Edition
Citizen Washi Paper Dial 30th Anniversary Edition

Both watches also feature washi paper dials, an extremely delicate form of paper with a unique texture that makes it ideal for taking on interesting patterns and colours. What’s more, the 30th Anniversary collection is a follow up to 2024’s Nature Collection, meaning each dial is inspired by a traditional Japanese concept regarding nature. The white dial of the pink gold model is based on early spring mornings, a period of time most famous for its cherry blossom, hence the white and pink tones found across its swirling face. The second model is instead inspired by summer nights, with the silvery moonlight reflecting on clouds in the dark blue sky.

Citizen Washi Paper Dial 30th Anniversary Edition

The fact the dials are made from paper and hand-dyed in the case of the indigo version, means no two dials are identical, adding to the unique desirability and exclusivity of each piece. Though that’s not the only benefit of having a paper dial. The dials naturally allow light to pass through their surfaces, making them ideal carriers of Citizen’s Eco-Drive movements that use light to maintain their power reserves, meaning they will essentially never run out of power unless locked away in a box for months on end. The movement is specifically the Cal.A060.

Citizen Washi Paper Dial 30th Anniversary Edition
Citizen Washi Paper Dial 30th Anniversary Edition

As for availability, both versions of The Citizen Washi Paper Dial 30th Anniversary watch are limited to 400 pieces globally. Price-wise, these are Citizen’s top end eco-drive models with rare, difficult to produce dials so they have a much higher price than the majority of Citizen watches. But it’s also at a price point we have come to expect for this collection. The rose gold, white dial edition is $3,000 and the silver cased, blue dial version is $2,900 (approx. £2,300/£2,240).

Price and Specs:


Model:
Citizen

Iconic Nature Collection 30th Anniversary

Ref:
AQ4106-00A

(Duratect Sakura pink), AQ4100-22L (Duratech platinum)

Case:
38.3mm

diameter x 12.2mm thickness, super titanium with Sakura pink or platinum duratect coating

Dial:
Japanese

washi paper

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Citizen

calibre A060, eco-drive

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date

Strap:
Crocodile

leather

Price:
$2,900

(approx. £2,240) (platinum), $3,000 (approx. £2,300) (sakura pink), limited to 400 pieces each

More details at Citizen.

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Omega Debut Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Collection

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer 600m Black Ceramic

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer 600m Black Ceramic

The idea of prestige dive watches has always existed but it feels like it’s becoming much more common over the past 12 months. Watches that take the basic foundation of a dive watch but twist them in some manner that makes them more or less impractical to use in serious underwater conditions. The biggest culprit of this is the Rolex Deepsea gold but I think it can be argued that the new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer falls into the same category. Albeit for completely different reasons.

I suppose I should address my claim from the introduction immediately. Worldtimers do not belong on dive watches. It’s long been the prevailing thought that a dive watch’s dial should be as pared back as possible with minimal distractions in order to minimize any risk of the diver misinterpreting or misreading the display with potentially deadly consequences as they calculate their immersion time or decompression stops. A world time display is the complete opposite of minimalist.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer 600m Black Ceramic
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer 600m Black Ceramic

Omega’s rendition of the complication, which is based on the Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer, features two extra scales that offer no benefit while you’re underwater. A rotating 24-hour scale in the centre that serves as the second time zone indicator and a peripheral cities ring that denotes the world’s 24 time zones. On top of that, there’s a topographical map of the world in the centre of the dial which is the complete opposite of restrained or utilitarian. To my mind, all this excess information is a hazard on a dive watch.

However, if we change our perception of the watch and stop thinking about using it underwater (which very few people do anyway) and suddenly the watch makes a lot more sense. With its black ceramic case measuring an imposing 45.5mm, this is a pure status watch for global jetsetters. It’s the type of watch I can imagine David Beckham wearing if he wasn’t so closely tied to Tudor. Bold, impressive and macho. The completely blacked out bezel further leans into this visual aesthetic.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer 600m Black Ceramic
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer 600m Black Ceramic

There are two versions of the Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer available, the difference between them being the colour of the varnish used in conjunction with the laser ablated design on the dials. The first has a turquoise varnish and the second a grey one. The turquoise one actually reminds me of the Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow from a few years ago, perhaps showing that British design is ahead of the curve.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer 600m Black Ceramic

Beneath the surface of the dial is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8938 with automatic winding and a 60-hour power reserve. The master chronometer certification means it has been tested by METAs to ensure accuracy and reliability in multiple positions and under diverse atmospheric conditions. You can view the movement through the exhibition caseback.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer 600m Black Ceramic
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer 600m Black Ceramic

As for price, both versions of the watch are £14,000. As desk-divers I think these watches are perfectly fine. They have a cool, urban feel to them thanks to the black ceramic and the displays are impressively detailed. I just personally struggle with the idea of a watch with 600m water resistance that isn’t fine tuned for the purpose it was originally designed for.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Omega

Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Black Ceramic

Ref:
215.92.46.22.01.007

(black), 215.92.46.22.01.006 (blue)

Case:
45.5mm

diameter x 17.4mm thickness, black ceramic

Dial:
Black

Water resistance:
600m

(60 bar)

Movement:
Omega

calibre 8938, automatic, 39 jewels

Frequency:
25,200

vph (3.5 Hz)

Power reserve:
60h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date, worldtime

Strap:
Black

rubber with titanium foldover clasp

Price:
£14,000

More details at Omega.

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