Posted on

Scottish Watch Brands Unite as anOrdain Acquire Paulin Watches

Two stalwarts of the Scottish watch industry, anOrdain and Paulin Watches have officially announced a closer partnership by becoming sister companies. Alongside the new partnership, Paulin Watches has undergone a full rebrand and redesign with new watches, a new creative director and more. It signifies a big shift in the Scottish watchmaking scene.

First off, while many of you will be familiar with anOrdain for their work with enamel dials Paulin Watches may not have been on your radar to the same extent. They’ve been in the business for 10 years and in that time have focussed on design-led, accessible wristwatches. Under the ownership of anOrdain that’s not going to change with a goal of keeping every watch produced at price below £1,000 and exploring both mechanical and quartz movements.

Paulin Co-Founders (Sisters)

As for the specific details of the acquisition, these are both relatively small brands so I don’t think it will surprise anyone to learn that there’s a family element involved. anOrdain’s founder, Lewis Heath, and one of Paulin’s co-founders, Charlotte Paulin, have become married and so it’s only natural for them to seek to consolidate their portfolios together. What this means in practical terms is that the two brands, while remaining totally independent, will share a studio located at anOrdain’s Glasgow workshop.

Regarding the Paulin Watches rebrand, it’s been in the works for over a year now and has been overseen by Imogen Ayres, formerly a senior member of anOrdain and now the new Creative Director for Paulin. The first watch being released in this new phase of the brand’s existence is the Modul, a 35mm stainless steel timepiece available in automatic and quartz variants with fun, colourful dials. The yellow version and the pink edition are very bright and joyful while the rusty brown feels like it was taken straight out of 1970s interior design.

It’s great to see the UK watch industry thriving with brands taking chances on new partnerships and closer cooperation rather than risk stagnation. For example, both anOrdain and Paulin are taking part in the EveryWatch auction organised by the Scottish Watches Podcast and in fact today, August 23rd, is your last chance to bid. And if you want to see a whole raft of British watchmakers, look out for news on the British Watchmakers’ Day event next March.

More details at Paulin and anOrdain.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

Omologato Classic Timer Automatic 722 Mille Miglia Featuring Iconic Livery From 1955

Image credit: Hagerty

The new Classic Timer is automotive-led watch studio Omologato’s first automatic collection and a serious step for the ultra-cool petrolhead brand. And while the entire collection is an ode to racing, it’s the 722 Mille Miglia that’s perhaps most evocative. The 722 in the name and on the dial refers to the starting time of a Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR, driven by the legendary Sir Stirling Moss and co-driver Denis Jenkinson, which completed the 1,000-mile long Mille Miglia race in 1955 at an average speed of 98.53 mph. It’s a great motorsport moment and dressed in the same red and grey colours as the car, it’s a great-looking watch too.

There are a handful of models in the Classic Timer range and at this point we’ve had the opportunity to look at a couple of them and every time that I see one it still strikes me how fun the design is. With its monopusher 40mm stainless steel case and bicompax display you’d be forgiven for thinking that it’s a chronograph. However, in reality it’s a calendar watch.

It features hours, minutes and seconds on the central hand stack with the subdial at 3 o’clock being months and the one a 9 o’clock the days of the week. There’s also a date window at 6. As mentioned in the introduction, the choice of colours reflects the iconic livery of the 722 car. What that means is a gorgeous sunray brushed dial in grey with red accents and white subdials. It feels sleek and retro, just like the car itself.

Under the bonnet of the Omologato Classic Timer 722 Mille Miglia and protected by an engraved steel caseback is the Miyota 9122 Premium Automatic. For the brand’s first automatic collection, it’s a solid calibre featuring a 40-hour power reserve and decent though not exemplary accuracy of -10/+30 seconds per day. It leaves plenty of room for growth as Omologato expand their connections in the watch industry and motorsport. I’d particularly like to see an automatic Panamericana as that’s one of their most distinctive models.

The Omologato Classic Timer 722 Mille Miglia premier edition is limited to just 72 pieces at a price of £600. It’s a cool tribute to an historic car, a famous race and some legendary drivers, what more could you want?

Price & Specs:

Model: Omologato Classic Timer 722 Mille Miglia
Ref: CT722
Case/dial: 40mm diameter, stainless steel case, sunray arrows silver dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9122, automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 40h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, month, days
Strap: Italian ethically sourced leather
Price/availability: £600, limited to 72 pieces

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

Grand Seiko Release GMT Pair ‘Sea of Clouds’ SBGJ275 and ‘Mid-Heaven’ SBGM253

Grand Seiko has released a pair of new GMT watches inspired by the view from the peak of Mt Iwate, called the Sea of Clouds and Mid-Heaven. Both feature light blue dials that are designed to conjure images of the light, airy atmosphere of the mountain top. Although while the dials are fairly similar, the watches themselves are vastly different.

Grand Seiko ‘Sea of Clouds’ GMT SBGJ275

The name Sea of Clouds, or in Japanese Unkai, stems from the natural phenomenon of clouds sitting below the peak of a mountain due to air pressure. Which means you can climb above the cloud line and look down at them like an ocean beneath you. This effect is recreated across the Sea of Clouds’ dial by having a sky-blue base colour decorated with shifting patterns of frosty white. It’s a style that Grand Seiko have returned to a handful of times now with other examples being models like the 44GS.

Here though it’s presented in the context of a 44.2mm GMT. It’s the same design as the previous Sport collection GMTs with a large 24-hour bezel with day-night split. Interestingly, the day night colour split isn’t exactly 50-50 as you’d see on a watch like the Rolex GMT-Master II, instead the colour change is located just after 6:00 and before 18:00. I don’t mind it because it reinforces the idea of the blue sky above the ground, but it also makes the daylight hours of the day feel shorter.

Housed inside the stainless steel case is the hi-beat calibre 9S86. As a hi-beat movement it has a frequency of 36,000 vph and this particular calibre has a 55-hour power reserve with automatic winding. It’s also positioned in such a way that that date function and crown are located at 4 o’clock.

Price & Specs

Ref: SBGJ275|
Case/dial: 44.2mm diameter x 14.4mm thickness, stainless steel case, light blue detailed dial inspired by the sea of clouds around Mount Iwate’s summit also known as ‘Unkai’|
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)|
Movement: Seiko calibre 9S86, automatic, hi-beat|
Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)|
Power reserve: 55h|
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT|
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet|
Price/availability: £7,250

Grand Seiko ‘Mid-Heaven’ GMT SBGM253

Second of the pair is the Grand Seiko Mid-Heaven GMT SBGM253, which is inspired by the view from Mt Iwate on a clear day without clouds. As such, it has a sky-blue dial without any of the patterning seen on the model above. Further difference comes from the fact that it has its 24-hour scale on the dial rather than the bezel and features a much shorter and thicker GMT hand.

When you combine the dial with the stainless steel case measuring 39.5mm in diameter it definitely has strong visual similarities to popular designs like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual. I think the fact that I’ve made two comparisons to Rolex is symptomatic of the main problem I have with these two watches: they lack a little bit of the originality that we’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko. They feel more like part players that fill out their corresponding collections rather than stars in their own right.

However, that’s entirely opinion and on paper they’re still impressive. The Mid-Heaven actually has a higher-spec movement than the Sea of Clouds, housing the hi-beat Calibre 9S66 with 72-hour power reserve. It’s also a touch more accessible at £5,350 compared to the larger model’s £7,250.

Price & Specs

Ref: SBGM253|
Case/dial: 39.5mm diameter x 13.7mm thickness, stainless steel case, light blue sunburst dial inspired by the crystal clear view at Mount Iwate’s peak also known as ‘Chūten’|
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)|
Movement: Seiko calibre 9S66, automatic, 35 jewels|
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
Power reserve: 72h|
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT|
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet|
Price/availability: £5,350

More details at Seiko Boutique.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

Christopher Ward The Twelve (36) Watch Review

If you pay even the smallest bit of attention to the watchmaking landscape here in the UK then you’ll already be familiar with Christopher Ward’s The Twelve, their retro 1970s style integrated bracelet sports watch. Less than six months later they’ve launched a new edition of the watch 36mm, called, you guessed it, The Twelve (36). There are four colourways being launched at this size and I have two of them here in front of me, so let’s get hands on and see how they stack up.

Considering that the original The Twelve was 40mm, jumping down to 36mm is quite a shock. It feels significantly lighter and smaller on the wrist. Which is perhaps exacerbated by the fact I recently had the chance to try on the 35mm Tissot PRX and that felt bigger. Although, the pronounced crown guards of The Twelve do make it look broader and the integrated bracelet hides the relatively short lug-to-lug.

The argument will definitely be made by some quarters that they’re very feminine. On balance I’d agree with that when it comes to my personal tastes and certain colourways. The Alta White edition with rose gold coloured hands and hour markers doesn’t really suit me and the second version I have here is a touch too light. It’s a cool mint green colour called the Frosted Lichen edition and it’s a colour exclusive to the 36 whereas the other three (the two not here being dark and light blue) are variations on the existing 40mm collection.

At least the Lichen is the first Twelve that really makes the textured pattern of the dial work in its favour. The pattern itself consists of a repeating cross shape inspired by the Christopher Ward logo and it’s been scaled down to fit the new size, meaning at a distance or certain angles it almost looks like a Clous de Paris hobnail. Combine that with the green shade and it almost looks like the surface of its namesake, lichen. Of course, get a macro lens on it and it’ll still look like a skate park for ants. Just a smaller species.

Taking it off and flipping it over reveals the movement through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback. It’s the Sellita SW 200-1 with 38-hour power reserve featuring a custom CW rotor, it’s the same calibre as used in the steel 40mm models so no surprises here. While I’m looking at the caseback I also see that the watch has a 100m water resistance rating which leans into the idea of it being a watch you can wear on all occasions no matter the activity.

Both versions I have here are presented on stainless steel bracelets although they are available on alternative rubber straps. On bracelet the Christopher Ward The Twelve (36) is priced at £1,050 while the rubber is more accessible at £850. The ultimate question then, is would you buy a Twelve (36) or the original 40mm? Only you know which your preference is but for me, I’m kind of sad that there’s not a 38mm version to split the difference.

Price & Specs:

Model: Christopher Ward The Twelve (36)
Case/dial: 36mm diameter x 9.95mm thickness, stainless steel case with Glacier Blue, Nordic Blue, Alta White or Frosted Lichen textured dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW200-1, automatic, 26 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Rubber or stainless steel bracelet
Price/availability: £850 (rubber strap) or £1,050 (steel bracelet)

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

Farer Launches New Tonneau Collection

By now we’re used to Farer’s unique flavour of design. That’s to say, taking a classic archetype of a watch and playing around with colour and details to give it more than a fresh coat of paint. Usually though, that’s been tackling things like GMTs, Super Compressors, racing chronographs, a run of watches the word ‘accessible’ feels at home next to. But now the British brand is doing something I never would have expected from them: the Farer Tonneau Collection.

The tonneau, or barrel shaped case is an odd duck. Not quite round, not quite rectangular, it’s one of the more uncommon silhouettes out there. In fact, other than a few dressier, vintage-styled pieces a la Longines, the ones that spring to mind are Franck Muller and Richard Mille – along with their many, many cheaper homages.

Fortunately, Farer isn’t comparing themselves to that kind of insane, tourbillon and materials oriented haute horology. It’s just not in their wheelhouse. Instead, their trio of tonneau watches is firmly design led – though it has to be said, there’s a bit of old-school Franck Muller flavour in there, too.

As per usual, there are three watches in the capsule collection, each with their own distinctive personalities. First up, we have the Milan, which is eye-catching in the extreme. The emerald green, lacquered dial (apparently inspired by green-glazed pottery) is defined as much by texture as colour, with its concentric squares adding even more depth and variety of colours to the fumé dial. The rest of the layout lets that colour do the speaking, with relatively pared-back, rounded applied silver numerals and indexes. It’s gorgeous, and a lot more serious than Farer’s usual playful approach to colour.

The London on the other hand is back to form. It has the same geometric ridges as the Milan, which add a good deal of visual depth, but this time with a mid-seventies vibe and a Union Flag colour scheme of red, white and blue. It has a similar vibe to the recent titanium Bernina and I love it. The white makes the textured dial a good deal more obvious, and the differently sized red numerals make for a funkier, much more interesting layout. Finished with a blue railroad track to hammer home the squared shape of both case and dial, there’s a lot more going on with the London and it’s all a lot of fun. I’m not sure if I prefer it to the Milan or not. In the time I had them, I flip-flopped a fair few times.

Finally, we have the Paris, and this is the one that I’m honestly not a huge fan of. It loses the concentric square texture of the other two models, something that I love about both of them. Instead, it goes for a flat, royal blue. It’s cleaner and you could say more elegant, but honestly, it loses a lot to get there. It’s not helped by the Roman numerals, which remind me too much of early Franck Muller. The colour is still gorgeous, the kind of blue you see on Parisian street signs, but for me it lacks the detail that defines not just the Milan and London but Farer as a brand.

Dials aside, all three models have the same case and movement. The case is, of course, a barrel-shaped, curved tonneau that sits ergonomically on the wrist. At 35mm across with a 45mm lug-to-lug, it’s a bit small to get the full benefit of that wrist-hugging action, but it helps the relatively small watches sit comfortably – very comfortably in fact, it feels great on. They look relatively chunky but don’t feel it, at least not more so than any other tonneau shape and as fun, everyday watches the collection nails it.

Inside is the Sellita SW300-1, one of the better offerings from the Swiss movement specialist, with a 56-hour power reserve and a 4hz frequency. Its great as third-party movements go. More interestingly though is what Farer have done with the rotors. Each has been vapour coated to perfectly match the dial which, for a collection as much defined by colour as shape, is a seriously cool touch, especially combined with the gold Farer lettering across each.

All three watches come on a St. Venere leather strap – blue for the London, brown for the Milan and grey for the Paris – but I’d quickly switch them onto something a bit more fun. You could (and I most likely would) amp up the sporty connotations of a modern tonneau case with a funky coloured NATO, just for a bit of fun. Although a svelte bit of rubber would suit them, too.

Of course, the bottom line here is price. Farer’s bang-for-buck credentials are tried-and-tested, even when it comes to complications, but even I wasn’t expecting these bad boys to come in at just over £1,000. To be precise, the Farer Tonneau collection will set you back £1,095 a watch. For an upper-echelon Sellita movement, lacquered, textured dials and all the other bells and whistles, that feels like a typo. It’s not. I’ve checked. Due diligence and all that.

Price & Specs:

Model: Farer Tonneau Collection
Case/dial: 35mm diameter x 10.6mm thickness, stainless steel case, emerald-green fumé dial with concentric ridge pattern (Milan), white dial with 3d concentric ridge pattern dial (London) or metallic royal blue dial (Paris)
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW300-1, automatic, 25 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 56h
Functions: Hours, minutes
Strap: St Venere leather strap with 316L stainless steel buckle
fastening
Price/availability: £1,095

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

G-Shock GA-2100P-1A and GMA-S2100P-4A Pink Pair Models

Announced for an August 2023 release in Asia (excluding Japan) and the Middle East, the G-Shock GA-2100P-1A and GMA-S2100P-4A are matching “Pair Models” that will be sold individually. The GA-2100P-1A has a stealth black bezel with subtle pink accents on the dial. The GMA-S2100P-4A is a smaller S Series model in a vivid pink color. […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

Read More 

Posted on

G-Shock Products lifestyle goods launched in Singapore

The G-Shock Products brand of non-timepiece lifestyle goods, which was previously available only in Japan, has now launched in Singapore. Produced in collaboration with Beams and other brands, the line offers items such as clothing, bags, and accessories that are designed to complement G-Shock watches. Items from the spring collection are currently available at the […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

Read More 

Posted on

B5K Customs offers Cerakote ceramic-based coatings on G-Shock GMW-B5000 watches

Photo via G-Shock Collectors Worldwide Facebook Group B5K Customs (@b5k_customs on Instagram) specializes in customizing stainless steel G-Shock GMW-B5000 watches by applying a Cerakote finish to the external stainless steel parts. Cerakote, perhaps most well-known for its use on firearms, is a ceramic-based coating that offers resistance to corrosion and abrasion as well as the […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

Read More 

Posted on

Project Peacekeeper releases G-Shock DW-5600 and GD-100 collaborations for law enforcement officers

Project Peacekeeper, a charitable organization supporting law enforcement officers, released two G-Shock collaboration watches that are available to LEO and their families only (badge number required). The DW-5600PPK20-1CR and GD-100PPK20-1CR have a Blue Line theme to commemorate fallen officers and symbolize the relationship of the police in the community. Ten percent of all sales of […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

Read More