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Price Performance: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref. 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01


In the case of the original Genta icon, what goes up must come down. While it saw an incredible rise over the past three years, in the past 12 months the Royal Oak Jumbo’s lost a significant chunk of that. The drop’s flattened out now, but we hope you didn’t pick one up back in 2022.

Date
Opening Price (£)
Closing Price (£)
Price Change (£)
Price Change (%)

1 Year (Aug 2022 – July 2023)£94,820
£65,085
– £29,735
– 31.36%3 Years (Aug 2020 – July 2023)
£35,111
£65,085
+ £29,974+ 85.37%

Statistics accurate at time of writing article using WatchAnalytics.

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Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa 2023 Collection for the Americas Cup

With the 37th edition of the Americas Cup on the horizon, set to take place in autumn next year, the teams are well into their preparations. However, it’s not all gruelling sea races as team Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli from Italy are celebrating their multi-year collaboration with Panerai with a fleet of new watches ahead of the big competition. This is the Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa 2023 collection for the Americas Cup.

There are five timepieces in the collection including a time and date model, a GMT, a chronograph and a his & her pair of Luminor Dues. Since there’s a lot to discuss, let’s trim the sails and get under way.

Panerai Luminor Quaranta Steel DLC Luna Rossa PAM01408

As part of the Luminor Quaranta sub-collection, this Luna Rossa model has a 40mm diameter case, putting it solidly in the small to mid-size end of the spectrum. It has the characteristic cushion shape that will be familiar to anyone who’s ever looked at a Panerai before with its circular bezel and the Luminor’s signature crown guard. As the name suggests, it’s made from steel with a DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating that makes it super tough and gives it a black colouration.

The dial is relatively understated with a classy sunray finishing in a dark aquatic blue. It follows the navy and red colour scheme of the Luna Rossa by pairing that blue dial with a red small seconds hand at 9 o’clock, which is structurally mirrored at 3 by the date aperture. It’s also a sandwich dial, which means there are two layers with the bottom layer coated in lume and the top layer featuring cut-out markers to reveal the lume below.  That’s how the recessed look of the indexes is achieved.

Beneath the surface of the Luminor Quaranta Steel DLC Luna Rossa for 2023 is the P.900 calibre, which is one that we’ll see multiple times in this article. It’s an automatic piece with a 3-day power reserve, high frequency of 28,800 vph and Incabloc anti-shock device. It’s priced at £8,000, which makes it the median price of the five watches here.

Price & Specs

Ref: PAM01408|
Case/dial: 40mm diameter, DLC coated stainless steel case, blue sun-brushed dial|
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)|
Movement: Panerai calibre P.900, automatic, 23 jewels, 171 parts|
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
Power reserve: 3 days|
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date|
Strap: Bi-material rubber with PAM click release system buckle|
Price/availability: £8,000

Panerai Luminor Quaranta BiTempo Luna Rossa PAM01404

Second in the Luna Rossa 2023 collection is the Luminor Quaranta BiTempo Luna Rossa. Once again, it’s a Quaranta, which means it’s got a 40mm cushion case in steel this. However, this time the grey colour of the steel is left visible with a combination of polished and brushed finishes. The contrast between the bare steel and DLC version is interesting because the finishing on the exposed metal gives it a more luxurious appearance without giving up too much in terms of durability.

Although, more important than the case in this instance is the dial, which is where the titular BiTempo complication is found. BiTempo roughly means ‘two time’ and in wristwatch terms that equates to a dual time zone function, evidenced by the presence of two hour hands on the central hand stack. It’s a useful complication for regular travellers who need to keep track of the time in multiple places around the world. For sailors travelling the globe, its application is obvious.

Powering this edition is the P.900/GMT calibre, a modified version  of the P.900 with that additional GMT module. GMT is another name for dual time zone functions except that GMT watches traditionally use a 24-hour scale for their secondary zone while the BiTempo uses a 12-hour system. Beyond that, it has the same specs as the standard P.900, including crucially the 3-day power reserve. That also means it only has a slightly higher price than the non-GMT version, at £8,300.

Price & Specs

Ref: PAM01404|
Case/dial: 40mm diameter, stainless steel case, blue sun-brushed dial|
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)|
Movement: Panerai calibre P.900/GMT, automatic, 23 jewels, 171 parts|
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
Power reserve: 3 days|
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT|
Strap: Bi-material rubber with PAM click release system buckle|
Price/availability: £8,300

Panerai Luminor Chrono Carbotech™ Luna Rossa PAM01519

The Luminor Chrono Carbotech is one of Panerai’s Experience editions, which means that purchasing the watch gives the owner access to an exclusive event designed to highlight the strengths of the watch. In the past those experiences have included army boot camps to test out their most extreme tool watches and a tour of Italian heritage for their more refined, luxury designs. I don’t think it will be any surprise that this Experience edition involves meeting the Luna Rossa team for some sailing-related activities.

The watch itself is 44mm in diameter with a Carbotech case. Carbotech is Panerai’s proprietary material made from a composite of carbon fibre and PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone), giving it supremely lightweight and durable qualities as well as a uniform, layered appearance. It’s a chronograph model so the internal bezel is adorned with a tachymeter for measuring speed and distance.

Moving on to the dial, it features the same sunray brushed blue design as the other Luna Rossa watches we’ve looked at so far. Interrupting the blue is a pair of black bicompax subdials with snailed finishing. At 9 o’clock is the usual small seconds indicator while at 3 o’clock is a 30-minute chronograph counter. The central hand stack is also in stealthy black, featuring hours, minutes and chronograph seconds. It’s powered by the P.9200 calibre with 42-hour power reserve.

In terms of price, this one is the most expensive by several nautical miles, but not without good reason. On a pure watchmaking level, it has the most complex mechanics and is built using the most high-tech materials. But the main reason it costs £41,400 is the accompanying experience and the fact it’s limited to just 37 pieces in honour of the 37th Americas Cup.

Price & Specs

Ref: PAM01519|
Case/dial: 44mm diameter, Carbotech case, blue sun-brushed dial|
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)|
Movement: Panerai calibre P.900, automatic, 41 jewels|
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
Power reserve: 42h|
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, tachymeter|
Strap: Bi-material Luna Rossa rubber|
Price/availability: £41,400

Panerai Luminor Due Luna Rossa PAM01378/81

Since the last two watches are essentially a pair, we’ll cover them together. The only differences between them are the fact that one is 42mm while the other is 38mm and they have different straps. At those sizes they make for a good his & hers set but to be honest, they’re perfectly unisex and I find myself looking at the 38mm as one of the few Panerais that wouldn’t dwarf me.

As for the dials, they’ve deviated away from aquatic blue for a neutral white, although the team colours are still represented via the red seconds hands. It’s surprising how much a simple colour swap can change the character of a watch. The blue feels active and ready to jump on board and set sail, the white is more ready to pop open a bottle of fizz in the boat clubhouse. That’s not just an aesthetic distinction either because the two models are only water resistant to 30m (38mm) and 50m (42mm), so you don’t want to risk them getting soaked in the waves.

Both watches house the P.900 calibre – I did warn you at the start of this article that it’s a movement you’d be hearing a lot about. Since we’ve already talked about it a bunch, let’s focus on the straps instead. All five watches here except the 38mm are presented on bi-material straps consisting of rubber and textiles for a flexible, durable and water-resistant design in blue and red. The 38mm is instead on a Saffiano calf leather strap in white with a red stripe, hammering home that it’s for admiring the water, not jumping in it.

The Luminor Due Luna Rossa 42mm is £6,700 and the 38mm is £6,400, making them the most accessible in the collection. All that’s left to do is decide which of the Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa watches is your favourite. Personally, I like the idea of a chronograph model because it has the most relevance to racing but in terms of the watch I’d actually want, it would be the PAM01408, the standard time and date model. It has the right balance of style and function while displaying the team colours of Luna Rossa without being too overt about it.

Price & Specs

Ref: PAM01378 (white strap) PAM01381 (grey strap)|
Case/dial: 38mm (PAM01378) or 42mm (PAM01381) diameter, stainless steel case, white dial|
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar) (PAM01378) or 50m (5 bar) (PAM01381)|
Movement: Panerai calibre P.900, automatic, 23 jewels, 171 parts|
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
Power reserve: 3 days|
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date|
Strap: White saffiano calf leather or grey bi-material with PAM click release system|
Price/availability: £6,400 (white strap) or £6,700 (grey strap)

More details at Panerai.

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Oracle Recommends: Style Products for July 2023

&SONS Navy Prospector Jacket, £295

The &SONS Prospector Jacket Navy is a durable canvas jacket designed for year-round wear. There’s a soft wool-mix liner that is removable so that the garment can keep you warm in autumn, while remaining cool in the spring. In fact, the lining is also wearable on its own as a cardigan. This aspect of the jacket is inspired by vintage canvas jackets that traditionally featured blanket linings, while also bringing a modern versatility to the concept.

Available at &SONS.

Creshman C-Classic ‘White Dial’ x Limited, £1,780

Balancing modern sartorial swagger with classic Swiss watchmaking, the C-Classic from Creshman watches is that perfect sweet spot between everyday casual style and a formal dress watch. Made from solid stainless steel housing a workhorse Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, the C-Classic is available in four dial variations, including the beautifully streamlined silver, which offers a sleek monochromatic look to match the understated refinement of the finer details. Protected by 100m water resistance, it’s also a supremely practical timepiece, no matter what summer throws at you. , 3

Available at Creshman.

A-COLD-WALL* Shiraga Zip Hoodie, £460

Yes, it’s blazing hot but already designers are working on their autumn collections and that of Brixton-flavoured label A-COLD-WALL* looks to be a solid one. Based on ‘exterior, interior, and transitions’ with a healthy dose of colour theory, the entire new line is worth a look – though the Shiraga Zip Hoodie illustrates just what designer Samuel Ross can bring to the humble style staple. Reversed, asymmetric seams give it a rough-and-ready look with canvas patches giving the whole thing the look and feel of a rare find from your favourite vintage shop.

Available at A-COLD-WALL*.

Don Cavarchi Washed Grey Denim Jeans, £120

Rooted in the city of London, Doncavarchi embrace the rich cultural heritage and diverse influences that shape their designs. Every garment is meticulously crafted, with precision tailoring and flawless finishes. Whether it’s mixing and matching separates or layering statement pieces, their designs provide endless possibilities resulting in a contemporary aesthetic that transcends seasons. That’s as true of their timeless hoodies as it is of these, their washed grey denim jeans.

Available at Don Cavarchi.

Tesouro Neptune Field Watch, £2,000

While they come from humble microbrand beginnings Tesouro are on their way to becoming an established name in the UK and watches like the Neptune are proof that they’re heading in the right direction. The Neptune is a field watch that has been tested to MIL-STD-810G standards – those required for military equipment. It means the 42mm watch is resistant to shock, temperatures, salt, fog, driving rain, pressure (10 bar), sand and dust. The name, Neptune, comes from Operation Neptune, the official name for the D-Day landings.

Available at Tesouro.

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Zodiac Introduce Super Sea Wolf White Ceramic in Bright Colours for Summer

Zodiac are continuing to diversify the Super Sea Wolf range with fresh colours and materials for summer. The focal point for the new addition to the collection is the white ceramic case, building on the foundation set by the black ceramic Super Sea Wolf Compression diver from last year. With the sun shining, now is the perfect time to embrace the new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf White Ceramic.

With the case being the main focus, it makes sense to start there. It has a 40mm diameter with a round shape, fairly straight lugs and a unidirectional rotating bezel. It has a 200m water resistance rating courtesy of a stainless steel core on top of which the durable, lightweight ceramic outer sits. Ceramic is a high tech material that’s incredibly resilient, being both scratch resistant and fade-proof, making it ideal for tool watches like the Super Sea Wolf.

Another benefit of ceramic is that it can be produced in any colour. The only challenge of doing so is ensuring a consistent colour across the entire surface of the piece, which is why many watchmakers stick to black and white. Now that Zodiac have both of those under their belt, I wonder if we might get some additional characterful and vibrant choices in the future to match their colourful dials.

Speaking of colourful dials, there are three versions being produced. The first has a deep navy blue centre with a baby blue minute track, minute hand and matching FKM rubber strap. Next is the white dial variant with orange accents and lastly a pale green edition with orange accents. Of the trio, the green is my favourite because it reminds me of the 140th Anniversary model, plus it kind of looks like an inverted watermelon dial, which fits the summer vibe nicely.

Under the surface is the Swiss-made STP1-11 automatic movement, which is an ETA 2824-2 clone with a 44-hour power reserve and high frequency of 28,800 vph. Interestingly, while the STP1-11 can feature a date window, Zodiac have elected not to include one, allowing the display to be time only. It keeps the dial clean and hyper legible, which is what you want from a tool watch.

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf White Ceramic is priced at $1,795 (approx. £1,400), which is very accessible for a ceramic watch. Most of the accessible ceramic watches that come to mind are pieces like the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech but even then, they’re in the region of £3,000 – £4,000. Honestly, I don’t think you could ask for anything more from the Super Sea Wolf White Ceramic, it’s colourful and fun while also having solid specs and being good value to boot. All that’s left to do is plan a summer adventure to give it a trial.

Price & Specs:

Model: Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic
Ref: ZO9590 (blue), ZO9591 (orange), ZO9592 (green)
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 13.2mm thickness, white ceramic case, sunburst dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Swiss calibre STP1-11, automatic, COSC-certified, 26 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 44h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: FKM Rubber
Price/availability: $1,795 (approx. £1,400)

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5 Cameras Perfect for Watch Photography

Smartphones and their cameras have come a long way since the early days of two-megapixel flip phones. Gone are the pixelated photos which require more squinting than an impressionist painting just to make sense of them. But, even with the latest technology, many of us are still not satisfied with what a smartphone can muster. It leads us to search out alternatives and find the best cameras for wristwatch photography.

The bar is set high on Instagram these days. The only way to keep up and take pictures that will truly impress is to go with a ‘proper’ camera, with plenty of options starting from a few hundred pounds up into the more serious price point that will get the job done. And as an added bonus, most of these will also produce great videos too, so you’ll be churning out reels in 4k to keep the algorithm in your favour.

It’s not a matter of megapixels, or the size of your lens. In the words of professional photographer Chase Jarvis “the best camera is the one that’s with you.” And if the weight and dimensions of your photographical device are keeping it at home instead of slung over your shoulder, or in your bag, that’s an issue. So, today, we’re focusing on practicality and results. Some of these cameras are far from top-of-the-line options, but their results speak for themselves. All of these options are also equipped with convenient Wi-Fi file transfer options, so you can quickly go from camera to smartphone, and with a quick edit start reeling in those likes!

Olympus Pen E-PL10

We’re going straight to my favourite camera for watch photography — the Olympus Pen. I opted for the E-PL8, a camera which has now been replaced by the marginally improved E-PL10. The differences between those two and the E-PL9 are minimal, so my advice here would be to find the best price you can. The key feature of the Olympus Pen range is the small and stylish footprint of the camera in relation to price. This is the perfect platform for beginners and experienced wristwatch photographers alike. Don’t feel comfortable going manual yet? No problem, you can use any of the programme modes available, or even go fully automatic.

The learning curve isn’t steep, and the standard kit-lens offers a versatile zoom range, the upper end of which is perfect for wrist-shots. Once you get to grips with it and you’re ready to step up the game and get some bokehlicious soft-focus action you will have to get your hands on a prime (or fixed-focal- length) lens. The 30mm macro option from Olympus’ Zuiko range is my go-to for watch photography. Some downsides include an ill-placed video button next to the camera’s thumb grip, and a lack of viewfinder. This means that on bright days, you might find yourself squinting at the screen. Under normal conditions, it’s not an issue.

An electronic viewfinder (EVF) can also be purchased as a handy add-on. The camera features a Wi-Fi option, which allows you to transfer files (only jpeg) to your smartphone. Once there, you can share them directly, or use Lightroom mobile to edit to your heart’s content. Priced at £650 on Amazon this is a perfect entry to mid-level option.

Available at Amazon.

Panasonic Lumix DC-GX9

The Panasonic Lumix DC-GX9 is a perfect first step away from smartphone cameras. You’ll immediately notice a jump in the quality of your shots. Do keep in mind that a lot of the quality of smartphone photos comes from the post-processing that is applied to them by the proprietary software. This is something you’ll miss at first when moving to a camera, but which you’ll quickly learn to make up for with your own editing.

Much like the Olympus, this Panasonic is fully kitted out with everything you need for quick camera to phone to Instagram processing. With a stabilized 20.3 Megapixel sensor (a step up from Olympus’ 16 MP), you’ll be able to get sharp shots which would be unthinkable with a more traditional camera. Plus, with high-ISO capability (meaning the sensitivity of the sensor in low-light conditions) you won’t struggle to shoot at night or indoors.

Unlike the Olympus Pen options, here you get a built-in articulated EVF in addition to an equally-articulated screen (for those tricky pocket-shot angles). You also have a built-in flash, the ability to shoot 4K video, as well as all the other features you’d expect from a modern camera.

A big plus is the fact that you can use a wide range of Olympus lenses in addition to the Panasonic Lumix offering, including the cheap but wonderful 25mm f/1.7, which is my recommendation as a first go-to prime lens. You also have the option of transferring files via Bluetooth, which saves you both time and battery. Stepping up from the Olympus to the Panasonic will only add another £100 to £200 to your budget, but in return you get some key features that you might miss once you grow into the Olympus environment.

More details at Panasonic.

Sony ZV-E10 ‘Vlog Camera’

The Sony A-series of cameras has built quite a name for itself. These are often the choice of pros and aspiring amateurs alike. But a couple of steps below these high-end machines, you can also find some incredibly good options, especially at a sub-£1,000 price-point. The Sony ZV-E10 is marketed as a ‘vlog camera’.

For those of you who didn’t grow up watching an unhealthy amount of YouTube videos, the term comes from a mix of the words video and blog, and has become a popular way for influencers and the influenced to broadcast themselves to the world. But we’re here to shoot watches, not silly internet videos (unless it’s silly internet videos about watches). Here, the main selling point is a bigger sensor (up from 20.3 to 24.2 MP), as well as all the brand-exclusive goodness that makes Sony cameras some of the most popular on the market.

On top of that, you get a pocketable camera with interchangeable lenses, a great battery life, excellent ergonomics, and plenty of built-in post-processing options. The real strength of this camera lies in its impressive video capabilities, but everything that makes it an outstanding video camera translates seamlessly into watch photography. Sixty lenses are available for the Sony system, which means you’ll always find exactly what you need.

As always, it’s good to start with a versatile zoom kit-lens, and then expand with either a prime or macro lens. Other than that, the sky is the limit. Weight-wise it comes in 40g lighter than the Olympus, so you can enjoy all of these features without adding unnecessary grams to your camera bag. Prices including a lens start at about £770, meaning that this is just about the best option available on the market below £1,000, leaving you some budget for additional lenses and accessories.

Available at Sony.

Fujifilm X-T5

Are you feeling flush? Have you already bought all your favourite watches, and now find yourself with enough money left over for a brilliant camera to immortalize them with? Then the Fujifilm X-T5 is the way to go. Much like watches, cameras and their corresponding prices tend to scale up quite quickly. But staying within what someone serious about watches will likely find reasonable, we land upon the inevitable Fujifilm option.

No, I did not go for the fixed-lens classic that is the Fuji X-100v — a solid choice for sure. Instead, I have opted for something slightly heftier in size, but also in features and versatility. This Fujifilm camera has virtually all of the features of the previous options, but with some general improvements.

These range from ergonomics and the hardware controls on the camera, to the sensor inside. Essentially, you get a properly large sensor (a 40.2MP X-Trans CMOS 5 HR image sensor to be precise), better low-light performance, and plenty of high tech features. These include Pixel Shift Multi-Shot function; Deep Learning AI-assisted focusing; a maximum electronic shutter speed of 1/180,000 of a second; and the ability to record video in 6.2K at a recording rate of 30P in 4:2:2 10-bit colour depth. I promise you that this is all as impressive as it sounds. All you need to know though is that the camera has all the tools you need to take great shots in the least favourable of conditions.

It does all the heavy lifting for you. Although compared to the previous cameras it’s over 200g heavier (without a lens), this Fuji is as robust as it gets, with a weather and dust-sealed construction. The electronic viewfinder is bright and comfortable to use, and the images it produces are stunning. Just the body will set you back about £1,700 and a decent lens (such as the Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 R) will add an extra £600 on top. A proper piece of kit, with a price tag to match.

More details at Fujifilm.

Leica Q2

The sky is truly the limit when it comes to cameras. However, if you want to touch the sky without actually flying, the closest you can come to doing so (some would say) is the Leica Q2. In the true spirit of luxury, the Leica Q2 tops the price bracket of this list, yet at the same time comes with one or two compromises. For instance, you can’t swap the lens. It’s a fixed 28mm lens with an aperture of f/1.7, which is actually a rather wide angle. This is because it’s the only full-frame option on the list. However, the Leica has a couple of tricks up its neatly ironed German sleeves.

The first is a crop-equivalent shooting mode, which allows you to virtually shoot with a 35, 50, and 75mm equivalents. This works thanks to its massive 42 Megapixel sensor. Once uploaded, the shots can be processed as per their crop, but all the data is there, so they can also be un-cropped to the full 28mm field of view. On top of this, you get a macro mode, which allows you to get in as close as 17cm, meaning that wrist shots are a breeze.

The biggest perk, other than a quiet leaf shutter, IP52 weather and dust-sealed construction, Gorilla glass coated screen and a Wi-Fi transfer feature, is the Leica magic. This is a combination of hardware, software, processing, and years of making some of the world’s best cameras. There’s something inexplicably tasty about shots taken on a Leica. It’s hard to describe, but easy to spot and with the Q2 you’ll quickly produce shots that look exactly like what you had in your mind.

And once you master its many tricks, you’ll have a photographic companion for life. It’s a more minimalist approach to modern photography, taking the time to slow down, think, and shoot to capture the moments worth capturing, as well as to take some beautiful pictures of your favourite watches. For the Leica magic you’ll have to pay a premium, as the Q2 has a retail price about £4,750. It’s entry-level in the Leica universe, but tops today’s list, almost doubling the price of the runner-up.

Available at Leica.

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G-Shock U.S. Summer Promotions: 40th Anniversary Pin Badge Set and Wall Clock Giveaway

G-Shock U.S. is currently giving away a 40th Anniversary pin badge set with the purchase of select G-Shock watches. The qualifying models seem to be somewhat random, as they are mostly older or slightly older affordable models, with the most recent being the GA2100RC-1A and GA100RC-1A from the Teal and Brown Rust Series. Some popular […]

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Microbrand Corner: July 2023’s Best New Releases 

Monbrey MB1 L08

Built by a pair of Hong Kong-based industrial designers, The MB1 series takes inspiration from 1970s design. The case shape is inspired by the Cybertruck and the angular aesthetic of the wedge era design, thankfully more successfully than Musk’s EV. The movement is guarded against magnetic fields thanks to its faraday cage, with a magnetic resistance of ISO 764:2020, a nod to the scientific necessities of the era. With its angular case, sharp hands, and 12 silver markers, it also comes in an array of dial colours, with slight Grand Seiko vibes, which is never a bad thing. Available in a rainbow of colours, the L08 stands out for its rich, royal purple hue, a colour we’re seeing a lot more of lately.

Price & Specs

38.5mm stainless steel case with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
Miyota cal.9039 automatic movement 42-hour power reserve
€499 (approx. £400) available at Monbrey.

Charlie Paris Alliance 68H

If you’re looking for an understated, classy watch with an incredibly impressive level of finishing, the Alliance by Charlie Paris could be for you. An elegant case shape gives the watch an understated look, but it still has presence thanks to the curvature of the lugs. Sapphire glass at the back of the watch displays the G100 from the La Joux-Perret manufacturer, which is customised in France before being cased. The dials come in stunning dark blue or silvery white dial and look considerably more expensive than they are. I really think that these watches will be sold out in no time thanks to the craftsmanship and overall looks of the dial – proof positive of serious French watchmaking and design.

Price & Specs

39.5mm stainless steel case with 30m (3 bar) water resistance
La Jous-Perret G100 automatic movement with 68-hour power reserve
€1,624 (approx. £1,400), available at Charlie Paris.

Heinrich Taucher Sport

After releasing their first watch, the Taucher 1 in 2020, Heinrich have now revealed a new 1970s inspired version with the Taucher Sport. Defined by its colour combination of orange and black on the dial, it’s both a splash of vibrancy and practicality, as it’s one of the most visible colours at depth. It’s not all about colour though as there’s a fantastic structure to the entire ensemble, with white and orange hour and minute markers leaping off the dial. Set in a 41mm case in black DLC diamond-like carbon coated case or plain stainless steel, it’s a fantastically constructed piece. Backed by a Sellita SW200-1 Elaboré movement, 200m water resistance and a stainless steel mesh bracelet (with diver extension buckle), there’s a lot to love.

Price & Specs

41mm stainless steel case with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve
€849 (approx. £730), available at Heinrich.

Draco London Stellar

There’s something innately appealing about a classically sized watch with a vintage salmon dial. It’s the kind of shorthand for old school elegance that’s hard not to fall in love with – although in many cases, it’s also hard to afford. Enter Draco London and their Stellar, a starry- eyed ode to 50s dress watches, complete with gorgeous rosey dial and cursive Arabic numerals. At 36mm, it also has the era-appropriate sizing, all in a neat package that won’t break that bank. If you’re interested, the Kickstarter will be live in a matter of weeks, so get in there nice and early and the already accessible watch will be a steal.

Price & Specs

36mm stainless steel case with 50m (5 bar) water resistance
Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve
$389 (approx. £305), available at Draco London.

Boldr Field Medic Lagoon Blue

A decidedly modern take on the usually vintage pulsometer, Boldr’s new edition of their ultra-cool Field Medic adds a touch of light, tropical blue just in time for summer. Said blue is across the bi-compax subdials, chronograph seconds hand and a subtle ring on the crown, with the rest dressed in a mix of grey and black to suit the lightweight titanium construction. Boldr are becoming frustratingly proficient at producing incredibly cool timepieces, but at least the Field Medic has the kind of price that won’t stretch your purse strings, even if you grab a few.

Price & Specs

38mm titanium case with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
SII VK64 MecaQuartz movement
£240, available at Boldr.

Pitot F/A-18 Super Hornet Inspired

A Pitot tube, for those not well-versed in aviation paraphernalia, is a device used to measure airspeed. Why is that important? Because it shows just how obsessed fledgling microbrand Pitot is with aircraft – the F/A-18 Super Hornet specifically, in the case of this soon-to- Kickstarter model. Inspired by the Boeing-built fighter jet, the new watch is a contemporary take on a classic pilots’ watch, equipped with a tachymeter and a green, HUD-inspired bi-compax layout. There are two versions, one in black and green and the other in blue and yellow, which leans on aesthetics inspired by the Blue Angels of the US Navy, complete with a diamond formation of aircraft at six o’clock. Both offer big, 44mm titanium cases backed by a Swiss quartz movement. Exact timings for the Kickstarter launch are fittingly up in the air, but watch this space.

Price & Specs

44mm titanium case with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Swiss Ronda quartz movement
$500 (approx. £393), available at Pitot.

Rosenbusch The Quest

Rosenbusch’s The Quest is a 42mm steel watch inspired by the design codes of integrated sports watches from the 1970s. That means it has a broad, flat surfaces and a hexagonal bezel with decorative screws. That hexagonal shape is also makes it way to The Quest’s dial, which features sunray brushed finishing and bathtub indexes. The project is currently being supported on Kickstarter where you can pledge to support three versions of the piece. There’s the RB35 housing the Seiko NH35 movement, the RB200 with Sellita SW200 Elaboré and the Kickstarter exclusive limited edition RBX with skeletonised display.

Price & Specs

42mm stainless steel case with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Seiko NH35 with 41-hour power reserve (RB35), Sellita SW200 Elaboré with 41-hour power reserve (RBX, RB200)
€469 (approx. £404) (RB35), €669 (approx. £575) (RB200), €999 (approx. £859) (RBX), available at Rosenbusch.

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Beams x G-Shock G-B001 with dual bezel structure in black and skeleton gray

Japanese fashion brand and G-Shock Products partner Beams usually has some of the more interesting designs when it comes to G-Shock watch collaborations, and the same is true with its latest G-B001 release for 2023. This model is based on the revival of the DW-001/G-001 with a new dual-bezel structure and Bluetooth smartphone link. The […]

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Vario Launch Art Deco Versa Dual Time in Classy Colour Combinations

It was just the other week that we took a look at the vintage inspired designs of Vario and as part of that we briefly mentioned the upcoming launch of the Versa Dual Time. However, we didn’t have much time to dwell on the cool, accessible collection so now let’s dive into them in a little more detail.

The influence behind these watches is clearly apparent. They’re based on early 20th century watches like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso with rectangular designs and Art Deco styling. When it comes to that rectangular case, the Versa is 40mm x 26mm x 12mm and is made from stainless steel. And, like the Reverso, the Versa has a reversible design that allows you to flip over the watch to reveal a second face displaying a second time zone, hence the name Dual Time.

Vario Versa Dual Time Gunmetal/White

Interestingly, while the Reverso flips on a vertical axis, the Versa rotates on a horizontal axis going end over end. This is made possible by having and external case that’s separate from the main body of the watch allowing the body to rotate between its two modes. Naturally, the advantage of this is that you get two dials for your money and can choose between them to match your mood or outfit.

There are a couple of dial combinations available although the current pre-orders are specifically for the silver/black and gunmetal/white editions. Both of which are available in limited quantities of 400, although this is only the first batch and more may be made available in the future. I’d like to see the colourful blue, red and green editions make a return as they’re currently sold out.

Vario Versa Dual Time Silver/Black

In terms of layout, one of the two dials has an inner railway minute track with Arabic numerals and hour markers around the outside. The other dial is even more refined with just a peripheral railway track for both hours and minutes. To be honest, both sides look great.

Housed inside is a Ronda Slimtech quartz movement to ensure high degrees of reliability regardless of which orientation you use the watch. In fact, in an amazing example of work smarter, not harder, the watch actually contains two of these movements, one for each face rather than having a single double sided movement. It means you can set each dial totally independently, which is what allows it to function as a dual time model.

Both of the versions available for pre-order are priced at £346. If you’re looking for accessible Art Deco design, look no further. They’re classically elegant, provide great utility and versatile. Naturally I’d prefer them to be mechanical but who knows, maybe in the future Vario will take the plunge and the Versa Dual Time will take its place alongside their flagship models like the automatic 1918 Trench.

Price & Specs:

Model: Vario Versa Dual Time
Case/dial: 40mm length x 26mm width x 12mm thickness, stainless steel case, reversible dial in gunmetal/white and silver/black
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: 2 x Ronda Slimtech 1062 quartz movement
Functions: Hours, minutes
Strap: Veg tan Italian leather with deployant clasp
Price/availability: Pre-order for £346, delivery from June – August 2023.

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How Ebay Is Becoming the First and Last Name in Buying and Selling Watches Online

Since being founded back in 1995, eBay has transformed online selling. The online marketplace revolutionised digital shopping allowing anyone anywhere to bid on or buy pretty much anything – from stamps to mobile phones to, of course, watches.

The only issue really was making sure that what you thought you were buying was what eventually arrived in the mail. In many ways it was the wild west. It only takes a few bad actors to break trust and when you’re the go-to site for 140 million people, no net was tight enough to catch them all. Needless to say, it took some serious faith to purchase a vintage Omega or a Rolex on the site, especially if you didn’t know your stuff.

At the same time, the likes of Watchbox and Watchfinder, grew quickly to become trusted intermediaries for watch collectors. Being much smaller companies, and a tad more niche, they were able to foster a level of expertise that bred trust. They even issued warranties in case there were any issues.

In short, eBay saw the need to move with the times. But how to change things for the better? Have every luxury watch on eBay purchased on the site checked to see if it was the real deal? Well, they now do exactly that.

In 2021, the company brought their Authenticity Guarantee programme first launched in the US across the pond to the UK. Which, as the name suggests, is designed to build trust into the platform. This means, when a watch is bought over the incredibly accessible price point of £1,500, it’s sent to be vetted and verified by international repair and authentication giant Stoll & Co in London. They check everything from the dial and caseback to end links and reference number to make sure everything’s in order, even checking the item matches its seller description. As exhaustive a checklist as any specialist auction house. To put it simply, what this means is that you can rest assured that, if you purchase a luxury watch on eBay, you’re covered.

And it’s not just buyers who are protected, but sellers too. It’s not uncommon for a watch seller, professional or otherwise, to send out a watch only to have the buyer change their mind, whether for valid reasons or not. In the past damaged, fake or clandestinely altered versions often replaced the original watch sent across. Fortunately, eBay’s Authentication Guarantee goes both ways and the same watch has to go through eBay’s vetting with Stoll & Co’s when returned. If anyone’s going to spot any issues, it’s the guys that already know the watch in painstaking detail.

Of course, in general there aren’t the sort of headline grabbers as you’ll find from rare and vintage auctions, but more than respectable all the same. In fact, a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Blue Anniversary Men’s White Gold 2019, which sold for £93,000 was expertly authenticated through the programme. Putting that much trust in an online marketplace even a few years back would have been unthinkable. That’s not an outlier either; eBay’s seen most of its recent growth in the £5,000+ arena, when you start getting to some serious collectors’ items.

Perhaps more interesting for the everyday collector however is its £1,500 starting price. As with any marketplace it depends on what seller’s are offering, so often the weirder and wonderful pieces are more rare to find, but vintage and neovintage pieces, alongside modern automatic watches will be. The accessible threshold for the programme makes it feel less like a pay-to-play enterprise and more like a genuine shift in how watches are sold online, especially since the service comes at no additional cost to the buyer or seller.

Right now, there are over 100,000 watches globally for sale on eBay under the Authenticity Guarantee, running the length and breadth of the horological spectrum. Granted you’re still unlikely to find a Roger Smith on there, but finally you can buy yourself a quirky Rolex without the kind of luck that warrants buying a lottery ticket. As the value and numbers both go up – and the trust of both buyers and sellers with it – eBay’s proving that the wild west of watches has been well and truly tamed.

So, what does this mean for the future? Well, eBay sits in a unique place. Their online competitors are still firmly entrenched and more power to them. But they do tend to add the kind of premiums that they used to be able to justify with warranties. eBay offers it for free. Their IRL competitors on the other hand simply can’t offer the numbers and variety that eBay can. Time will obviously tell, but it feels very much like the future of buying and selling watches online is eBay’s for the taking.

More details at eBay.

​Oracle Time 

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