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G-Shock Full Metal Series with Multi-Color Gradation

G-Shock is releasing a full metal series featuring a multi-color gradation on the face and dial. The series includes two GMW-B5000 and two GM-B2100 models with a stainless steel bezel and band, along with a stainless steel screw-back case. These are the fifth and sixth GM-B2100 models to be released after the three debut models […]

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Oracle Recommends: Watches for September 2023

Maven Watches MUS+, £270

The MUS+, aka Maven Urban Scout+, is a modern take on traditional military field watches. It also happens to be Maven’s first automatic watch, housing a Miyota movement. The case is 40mm in diameter with a smooth and round design so that any bumps and knocks slide off rather than causing any damage; great for staying active. The dial is where Maven’s minimalist aesthetic and the MUS+’s tool watch utility meet, the typography being fairly understated while remaining highly legible at a glance.

More details at Maven Watches.

Argos Watches Odyssey, PHP 17,999 (approx. £250)

Argos Watches are a young Filipino brand inspired by the concept that watches are meant to be lifelong companions. That’s why the brand itself and their flagship watch are named after one of the most popular stories in history, The Odyssey and Odysseus’ faithful dog Argos. They create utilitarian watches built to withstand the rigors of life. The Odyssey is a 38mm steel piece with a textured, quasi-sector dial in cream or blue, housing the Seiko NH35A automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve.

More details at Argos Watches.

Monbrey M1 Bracelet, £316

Monbrey have launched a new bracelet for their successful MB1 wristwatch. The new bracelet, called the M1, is carefully crafted from brushed stainless steel with an H link design and angular facets that complement the angular style of the MB1 for a harmonious design. It features a quick-release system for easy changes and is equipped with a micro-adjustment buckle to ensure an optimal fit and comfort. The M1 will be available from October via the Monbrey website.

More details at Monbrey.

BWG Bavarian Watch Isaria, €555 for first 50 buyers, €1,555 standard price (approx. £490/£1,375)

BWG Bavarian Watch are a German watch brand that create watches inspired by the dual personality of Baveria. On the one hand you have soaring castles and on the other, you have the bustling, modern city of Munich. As such, BWG watches tread a line between luxurious design and practical utility, which is exemplified in the Isaria model with its 42.2mm case with 200m water resistance and bold design. The name and colourway options come from the river Isar, which flows through Munich.

More details at BWG.

Nezumi Aviera GMT, 3,680 – 4,480 SEK (approx. £265 – £323)

Nezumi’s fleet of cool tool watches skirt around the edges of classic Nordic style to create something fresh, the dream of founder and designer David Campo. Which is to say they combine aspects of retro styling and modern utility without straying into typical Scandinavian minimalism. Take the Aviera GMT for example, it has a robust 40mm diameter case in brushed stainless steel with 200m water resistance and a supremely legible three/six/nine/12 dial in high contrast colourways of blue or black. The Aviera will also soon be available on an additional trio of strap and bracelet options bring the total options to five.

More details at Nezumi Studios.

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‘Kawasaki x G-Shock DW-5600’ collaboration features the River Mark logo

Kawasaki is teaming up with G-Shock for the release of a DW-5600 collaboration, which is part of the Kawasaki Plaza lineup of clothing and accessories. The watch has a straightforward black and white design with a bold Kawasaki text logo alongside the River Mark logo, with the logos also engraved on the stainless steel case […]

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Gerald Charles Introduce Maestro 8.0 Squelette & GC Sport Squelette

It’s surprising just how versatile as off-kilter a case as that of Gerald Charles can be. The initial dress watch offering honestly didn’t catch my imagination all that much – though I have at least one friend that fell in love and bought one. The GC Maestro Sport Clay however changed things up nicely, offering a sportier (shocking) take on the stepped, Genta-designed formula. Now they’re going for a serious haute horology take instead with the new Maestro 8.0 Squelette in rose gold and Maestro 8.0 GC Sport Squelette in titanium.

Gerald Charles Maestro 8.0 Squelette Rose Gold

Squelette, for those uninitiated in Swiss watchmaking terms, is French for Skeleton. So, you kind of know what to expect here. The dial of the new watch has been removed and the movement underneath skeletonised to offer a view directly through the movement. This isn’t openworking (a few bits of dial removed), this is proper skeletonisation.

Of course, removing parts of bridges to show off the movement only really works if it’s a movement worth showing off. In the Maestro 8.0 Squelette, that movement is the proprietary Vaucher-developed calibre GCA 5482, the focal point being that it’s a microrotor movement. This means you have the benefits of an automatic watch – its autonomy – without the rotor getting in the way of the aesthetics.

The bridges themselves are also impeccably finished, showing off a shooting star motif, similar in concept to the Roger Dubuis Excalibur, just a lot more subtle. Which isn’t hard. It’s gorgeous, and works superbly well as a mechanical counterpoint to the portrait frame-ornate stepped case. It also offers a solid 50 hours power reserve, despite being just 2.6mm thick.

The case is 40mm of rose gold, in a lovely, classical contrast with the anthracite bridges. Finished on Gerald Charle’s signature chunky rubber strap in a steel blue, it’s one of the few watches I find improved by skeletonisation. Though the price tag makes it a little out of my reach at £66,800.

Gerald Charles Maestro 8.0 Sport Squelette

The sportier counterpoint to the rose gold version, the Maestro 8.0 Sport Squelette shares the same 40mm silhouette, just in lightweight titanium instead of precious metal. Its already a svelte watch (even more so with bridges and dial stripped away) and the titanium makes it incredibly light.

But don’t let that deter you – despite its haute horology nature, the movement has 5Gs of shock resistance. Hopefully that’s enough for everyday life, otherwise you probably shouldn’t be wearing a watch. Or have a driving licence. At the very least, it’s tennis proof, as tested by the likes of Dutch player Tim Van Rijthoven wearing the Maestro GC Sport Grass.

That DLC black case has been contrasted with silver bridges, a lot more modern and suited to the Genta vibe. It’s fitted on a deep blue take on that same textured rubber strap. But that’s of course not all; if you feel like you’re looking at a mirror image, you kind of are, given the entire movement has been flipped by 180 degrees.

This means the entire architecture has been turned upside down and, more obviously, the crown has been moved to the left-hand side of the case. That doesn’t necessarily make it a lefty though, as the crown being on the left gives your wrist a bit more freedom to move. It’s why dive watches sometimes opt for it and why, in what is ostensibly a sports watch, makes a lot of sense.

That said, I’m not sure I could ever wear a skeletonised, microrotor watch in a stepped case like this for a game of tennis or a round of golf, even with the shock resistance assurances. Though I would definitely wear it elsewhere, especially as it’s a touch cheaper than the gold version at £53,500.

Price & Specs:

Model: Gerald Charles Maestro 8.0 Squelette and Maestro 8.0 GC Sport Squelette
Ref: GC8.0-RG-06 (Squelette Rose Gold)
GC8.0 TX TN 01 (Sport Squelette)
Case/dial: 39mm x 41mm diameter x 8.35mm thickness, polished 18K rose gold 4N with a right screw-down crown in rose gold with Clous de Paris finish or grade 5 titanium case with a left screw-down crown, skeletonised dial with sandblasted bridges with polished anglage and baton shaped hands filled with white Super LumiNova
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Vaucher calibre GCA 5482 manufactured exclusively for Gerald Charles, automatic, 160 parts, 29 rubies, Incabloc® anti shock system, stop second system, unidirectional rotor
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50h
Functions: Hours, minutes
Strap: Grey vulcanised rubber with polished 18K Rose Gold 4N pin buckle (Squelette Rose Gold) or royal blue vulcanised rubber with sandblasted Grade 5 Titanium buckle (Sport Squelette), Clous de Paris finish on top side and Gerald Charles logo tapisserie on rear
Price/availability: £53,500 (Sport Squelette) and £66,800 (Squelette Rose Gold)

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Batavi Release the Sporty-Chic Atelier

Generally, the words ‘sporty’ and ‘guilloche’ aren’t all that comfortable together. One is generally shorthand for rugged, often utilitarian, the other’s ornate dial finishing, and never the two shall meet. But the latest from accessible Dutch brand Batavi aims to show that opposites attract – and attractive the new Batavi Atelier is.

This isn’t Batavi’s first foray into this kind of bilingual watch design; the Architect has a sporty case with a fittingly architectural dial, but that particular piece, with its integrated bracelet, is firmly rooted in the 70s. The Atelier is far more timeless.

The 39mm stainless steel case has a classic, field watch look, not precisely utilitarian but definitely based off a tool watch. But while the case is all business, the dial is where the fun’s at, with a mandala-esque fish scale pattern. Technically its ‘guilloche-inspired’ rather than the classical Swiss method of engraving but the difference is semantic when the finish is this cool.

The Arabic numerals are otherwise plain and bold against the pattern. They’re easy to read and oddly satisfying to look at. In many ways in fact, the Batavi Atelier reminds me of anOrdain’s Model 1, a precious dial (enamel for anOrdain, engraved for Batavi) in a relatively sporty case. Batavi’s effort just leans into that dichotomy a little harder.

Colourwise you have three different versions: a sleek dune beige (that appears a little more grey), a light aquamarine blue and a colour-shifting purple. If you were expecting something as prosaic as black or silver, look elsewhere.

No matter which you opt for, you’re looking at well-made five-link bracelet (which can be swapped for leather) an accessible Miyota movement with 42-hour power reserve and equally accessible price tag of €578. It’s a great watch for the money… and even more so if you order now, as Batavi currently have early bird prices of €459.

Price & Specs:

Model: Batavi Atelier
Case/dial: 39mm diameter x 11mm thickness, stainless steel case, 3D fish scale pattern dial with skeleton hands
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 44h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet or leather strap with quick-release pins
Price/availability: €459 (early bird price), €578 (standard price)

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph Black and Blue Ceramic Watch Review

This year’s the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore, Audemars Piguet’s sport-centric twist on the seminal 70s Genta design. So, expect to see a lot of the big, chunky, overly performance-centric collection about this year. Case in point, the latest Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph Blue Ceramic.

Cool as it is, this watch isn’t entirely new. The combination of a black ceramic case with a blue ceramic bezel and pushers was last shown off back in 2020. It even included the same blue fume tapisserie dial – just with a very different layout, which hints at the main thing that’s different about the new version.

The 2020 watch used the calibre 3126/3840 automatic movement, a completely fine-to-good chronograph, complete with a 50-hour power reserve. But that won’t do for a 30th anniversary, so now Audemars Piguet has update the watch with the newer 4401 calibre, which ups that acceptable 50 hours to a much more impressive 70 and backs it with a 4hz frequency for superb accuracy.

As I’ve mentioned, that movement changes more than the power reserve. Rather than having subdials at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock, it opts for the more symmetrical 3, 6 and 9. It’s a much more satisfying layout, especially since they’ve dropped the magnified date, which I never felt really fit. The previous Arabic numerals have also been swapped with hour markers, which combined with the other changes makes the entire dial feel more pared-back – or as much as a Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph can get. It’s much more like the halfway house between a classic Royal Oak and the sportier, more extreme Offshores and I’m here for it.

There are a couple of case changes for the better, too. It’s dropped a millimetre in size, down from 44 to 43, which is a minute downsize but makes a difference on the wrist. Part of that is also because of the new chronograph pushers, which have been more integrated into the crown protector. Indeed, the whole conglomeration of the crown looks and feels better than before, with the crown itself nestled in the middle.

On the wrist, well, it’s an Offshore. Smaller doesn’t mean small, and it’s chunky on the wrist with the gorgeous tactility of ceramic across the entire thing. Paired with the more ergonomic shape and it’s surprisingly comfortable. The bright flashes of blue nail why the Offshore’s such a successful riff on the Royal Oak design and especially in the glorious sunshine we’ve been having, offer some serious impact. That’s doubly true with the matching woven blue strap, a contrast-stitched textile-effect leather number. The case edges are a little sharp, but that just plays into the industrial vibe the collection’s built on.

On the back you can get a good view of the new 4140 calibre, which is well finished, of course, and well worth a look. You can’t see a huge amount, and said finishing again ties into the overall industrial vibe of the Royal Oak Offshore, but it’s still incredibly handsome.

Honestly, on paper this doesn’t seem like a new watch. It’s easy to get hung up on that distinctive combination of black and blue ceramic. But between the new movement, the case refinements and the stripped-back dial, it has more than enough to set it apart. If you don’t want to commit to the full-on Offshore but still want something sportier than the 70s-flavoured Royal Oak, you could do a lot, lot worse than this.

Price & Specs:

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph
Ref: 26420CE.OO.A043VE.01
Case/dial: 43mm diameter x 14.4mm thickness, black ceramic case and blue ceramic bezel, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, blue ceramic pushpieces and screw-locked crown, titanium pushpiece guards and links, smoked blue dial with “Méga Tapisserie” pattern, black counters and external zone, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, black inner bezel
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Audemars Piguet calibre 4401, automatic, 381 parts, 40 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70h
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph
Strap: Blue calfskin with titanium pin buckle and interchangeable strap system, additional black rubber strap included
Price/availability: Price on request

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Dutch streetwear brand La Fam to release first G-Shock collaboration with GMA-S2100

Dutch streetwear brand and creative community La Fam is releasing its first G-Shock collaboration. The white GMA-S2100 watch is a smaller version of the popular octagonal GA-2100 and features an exclusive band with colorful 1990s-inspired drawings and graffiti-like lettering with the phrase “We Start And End With The Fam.” La Fam was started as a […]

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G-Shock ‘Rooted in Toughness’ Southeast Asia Pop-Up Tour with 88rising

Casio will be holding a special pop-up tour throughout Southeast Asia in partnership with music collective 88rising to celebrate the 40th Anniversary of G-Shock. The pop-up will feature an exclusive display of artist portraits, and a limited edition G-Shock x 88rising t-shirt will be available for S$39 each. It is also possible for Casio ID […]

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Baume et Mercier Launch Riviera Baumatic 10742 Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition

Baume et Mercier aren’t exactly strangers to the Perpetual Calendar, having a couple in their collections already, but still, they’re not the first brand that comes to mind when you think of haute horology either. Now they’ve expanded their calendar collection with a new limited edition, the Riviera Baumatic 10742 Perpetual Calendar.

As part of the Riviera collection, this is part of Baume et Mercier’s integrated bracelet sports watch line. That means it has a 40mm diameter in steel with a combination of polished and satin brushed finishing and a broad dodecagonal bezel. It has incredibly strong seventies influences with that industrial Genta-esque aesthetic seen on watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, what makes this watch stand out from other Rivieras is the dial, which is where we find the perpetual calendar display. It consists of four subdials nested around the central hours, minutes and seconds hands. Those subdials are month and leap year indicators at 12 o’clock, date at 3, moonphase at 6 and days of the week at 9.

The Riviera Baumatic 10742 Perpetual Calendar has a gilded dial in a yellow gold tone with vertically brushed finishing. I kind of feel like it would look a little better if it was a salmon rose gold rather than the pale yellow they’ve gone for. But then again, maybe salmon would make it look a little too classic instead of the current vibrant sporty edge it has. So on balance I’m a fan.

Beneath the surface is the Baumatic calibre, an automatic movement with a 5-day power reserve and equipped in this instance with a Dubois-Dépraz perpetual calendar module. The exhibition caseback reveals its golden rotor and perlage finishing, which is a type of circular graining that to be honest I haven’t seen used on many watches this year. It feels like it’s fallen out of favour, replaced by Côtes de Genève – it’s quite nice to see it used here.

The Baume et Mercier Riviera Baumatic 10742 Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition is priced at £16,990 and is limited to just 50 pieces. That’s obviously vastly more expensive than your average Riviera but it’s important to keep it in context, for a perpetual calendar it’s an absolute bargain. It’s also not as pricy as their other perpetual calendars despite being much cooler, although that probably has more to do with the steel case.

Price & Specs:

Model: Baume et Mercier Riviera Baumatic 10742 Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition
Ref: 10742
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 11.84mm thickness, polished/satin-finished stainless steel case, gold toned dial
Water resistance: 500m (50 bar)
Movement: Baume et Mercier Baumatic, automatic, 21 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 120h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar
Strap: Polished/satin-finished three-link stainless steel bracelet
Price/availability: £16,990, limited to 50 pieces

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