Category: News

What was the last watch you bought?

The latest additions to my collection are some completely different watches, actually. The 5231J World Time by Patek, is in my opinion a really interesting and recognisable classic watch design. It belongs in any serious collection of Pateks. A Rolex Sky-Dweller in rose gold with the blue dial. This is one of the most interesting Watches and Wonders releases for me and it seems Rolex are really listening to the community and reading the forums, because it was one of the most requested designs in the last year for sure.

Interestingly, I also added a Bamford ‘Skater Snoopy’. So did Nico Leonard – we both got one together, so we could wear the same watch! It’s just hilarious. I am a big Snoopy fan, and to me watch collecting isn’t about wearing expensive watches – it’s about unique pieces that are different from one another. And this one just intrigued me.

Do you collect anything outside of watches?

I think collecting comes from having a passion for something, and clearly my passion is my job – cars. They are always front and centre here at Brabus and something I deeply care about. One of my other passions is fashion. I love to look at what all of the brands are doing and I’ve been collecting garments for more than ten years. It’s an interesting one. Everybody collects differently.

I collect watches in a specific way, as I’m looking for interesting designs across a diverse range of brands and what really matters to me is that they’re different. I don’t want every Daytona reference; I just want ones that are different from one another, so I can wear a different watch with a different outfit. They need to be visually or mechanically different from one another. Every brand has its iconic designs, which stand for what it’s worked for. If I look at Patek, a World Time is different from a Calatrava. Different to a perpetual calendar and Celestial. Each and every one is clearly identifiable and outstanding, so I’d be collecting one of each of those before I was collecting four references of perpetual calendars. Same for AP, Vacheron, Moser, all of the brands.

What’s at the top of your wishlist?

There are a few watches at the top of my wishlist, which is constantly there and updated from time to time. For now though, the skeleton version of the Vacheron Overseas in rose gold. It’s a magnificent watch, a highlight of Watches and Wonders 22. The 39mm skeletonised AP Royal Oak in rose gold too. A Patek Philippe Celestial – a watch like no other. And for independent route, there are some watches from Ressence that I have an eye on.

What is a recent find or discovery?

I bought the Studio Underd0g Watermel0n – a recent and quirky find. Not an expensive watch at all, and not one that attracted my attention because it was mechanically proficient – it has a Chinese movement – but I like what the designer is doing. He’s getting the designs and colour palette from food and I love that, because I too am looking for new inspiration in many places. It was so out of the box and new for the industry, that I actually went to eBay to secure one, as it sold out! Like I said, it’s about the passion for collecting for me, not the price. I read up on the brand, loved the designer’s story, and won it in the eBay auction.

What inspires you?

My job as the owner and CEO of Brabus is to permanently infuse our brand with energy and new ideas. For this I have to get out of my comfort zone; travel, meet interesting people and immerse myself in inspiration. I’m a big fan of design and fashion, and of architecture – I keep looking at these areas of life constantly to get inspired and to analyse how brands and designers in these spaces do business.

‘My role is to be out there in the world connecting people and ideas to Brabus and look for things I can take back to HQ. This could be cultural things like trends, or technical things like how a brand builds a product portfolio, or does meetings, or delivers shows and events. I’m fascinated with retail spaces and I’m always taking pictures because there is so much to develop and discover. A large part of my brand’s development is our team out in the world looking, thinking, dreaming, like I do too. This is how we improve.

What is a book, podcast or album that changed the way you think?

I am a big fan of music and of audio books. One book I love is Extreme Ownership by Jocko Willink, because it talks about the characteristics of ownership from the perspective of two Navy Seals who work in extreme environments, and much of this translates to my role here at Brabus. Essentialism by Greg McKeown, which teaches you how to focus on the right things and leave behind the clutter. I also loved Factfullness by Hans Rowling, which describes why the world is a much better place than people think it is, through the intelligent interpretation of statistics. I am a big fan of the approach and there are some interesting TED Talks by the author too.

Who is a celebrity of person of note that you admire?

You asked about music in the last question and on that note, someone I find inspiring is John Mayer. I like to listen to him, but interestingly there’s a connection to the watch world because he is of course a big collector, although I was a fan of his long before this. Apart from that, there are a lot of people who inspire me, but I’m not one to look at celebrities for inspiration. It can come from a lot of other places and people. I don’t have many idols but generally, inspiration for me comes from my own circle of friends, family and colleagues.

What is your ideal long weekend?

My ideal long weekend looks pretty much the same every week. I work very long hours during the week so Saturday is my recovery day. You’ll find me sleeping in, recharging with no alarm clock, and doing very little…not many appointments, just on the couch reading or watching videos. Getting in touch with people and maybe going out for dinner. Then normally on Sundays it’s a family and friends day, again with some good food. But my job is super challenging and I put a lot of energy into this, so weekends are for recovery.

What would we always find in your fridge?

Boring answer, sorry. You’ll always find a lot of fruit and vegetables. Salads and healthy things, because I don’t give myself the chance to mess up when I am at home. My job means I take a lot of dinners out, so I refuse entry to anything ‘bad’ that I know I’m going to eat in my home. My favourite snack is a big plate of nuts that I have in the kitchen at all times – maybe that’s why sometimes I’m a little nuts!

What is a rule or mantra that you live by?

A mantra that has come up in several interviews, without me thinking about it is ‘one face to life’. I was at a talk in Munich during a trade show and the moderator on stage asked me how I was privately. I thought about it and I just said “I don’t know what you’re asking…I’m here, this is me”. This sparked the conversation about if you’re different as a business person as you are privately. Yes, I have to wear many hats and behave according to different roles…CEO, owner, brother, boyfriend, we all have many roles.

But as the owner of a family business, I think you can only represent both the family and the business if you have a strong foundation as a personality and are authentic as a person – I know authentic is a difficult word, but it’s why this phrase ‘one face to life’ exists and has come up so many times. I don’t believe in behaving differently in different settings because I think my family, friends and colleagues want to talk to the same person, and that’s a responsibility I have.

What does the year ahead look like for you?

I became the CEO in 2018 after the sudden passing of my father, and when I look back at these five years, it’s amazing and unbelievable how much traction and speed we have picked up during that time – new products like our ‘Rocket’ series, new sectors like marine with our Brabus boats, and on two-wheels; our bike collaborations with KTM. It’s bought speed into our business. You can feel this innovation and speed as you walk through our HQ. There is a certain urge to develop and lots going on at once – it’s thrilling.

2023 has been a year in which a lot of new things happened, like the Brabus Rocket R based on the 911 Turbo S, and a huge investment in something we tried on a small scale back in 22 – our Signature night event – this year becoming a real milestone for our business, presenting products in a way that nobody has in our industry before either, thanks to our amazing community of collectors, customers and media. We had some real positive feedback and the event is doing wild things for our business which we honestly didn’t expect. Something that was born out of the need to reorganise after COVID has become the North Star of our calendar now and we are already planning for 2024’s event, and 2024’s new products. We are developing so fast as a brand and I can’t wait to see what we’re going to do next.

More details at Brabus.

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G-Shock has teamed up with Los Angeles-based Riot Games to release a special pair of limited edition watches in collaboration with the video game League of Legends. Launched in 2009, League of Legends is an online multiplayer video game involving team-based strategy. It is one of the most popular esports titles and is currently the […]

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What do you think of first when it comes to high performance luxury audio? Maybe the sleek turntable at the forefront of your sound system or the speakers that deliver the sound to your ears.

Both of those are reasonable answers but as any audiophile knows, those are but two components in a larger system. The true heart of the system comprises devices such as an amplifier or AV Receiver that connect it all; essential elements that mustn’t be overlooked. And that’s something Marantz knows very well.

Founded in 1953, the company’s pursuit for the most musical sound has seven decades of history behind it; from the first ‘Audio Consolette,’ to the Hi-Fis and Compact Discs of the 1980s and ‘90s; to the home entertainment of the 21st century. With that legacy comes an active and enthusiastic community of Marantz collectors. Original versions of the Model 9 amplifier, released in 1960 and famously customised by NASA in its Apollo Space Program – as well as many other Marantz pieces from the last 70 years, such as their Model 7, 8, and 10 – still command huge value to this day.

The temptation to capitalise on this nostalgic enthusiasm is strong.  Marantz carefully curates and retains many of their legendary products in multiple product museums around the world.  As such, the brand’s designers are thoroughly immersed in the Marantz heritage going back to the fifties, paying special attention to the hallmark attributes and qualities of these legacy products and elevating those details if they can be made relevant and transferable to the modern Marantz collector.

By opening up high-end music experience to new audiences with next-gen models, Marantz prove that the right investment into these essential elements can transform an ordinary listening experience into something extraordinary.  This can be seen with new products like the STERO 70s -Channel Hi-Fi Receiver, which is designed to perform like a full-sized amplifier. It’s slim and distinguished design elevates any home and is matched by the signature warm, rich, and detailed sound that enthusiasts and luxury indulgers have come to expect from Marantz.

Discover more about Marantz’s pursuits for the most musical sound at Marantz.

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The story of the Fifty Fathoms is one often associated with the golden age of underwater exploration and the figures like Jacques Cousteau who built its reputation for deep diving excellence. It’s a story that started with Jean-Jacques Fichter, the then-CEO of Blancpain, almost running out of air and has led to one of the strongest legacies in watchmaking. But like many an iconic tool watch, there’s more to the Fifty Fathoms than its civilian applications. So, while Blancpain may be celebrating its legacy in a very different way with its Swatch collaboration, the latest Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 in its ongoing anniversary series takes a very different, military angle.

The original Fifty Fathoms made a splash in 1953, but by 1957 it was the focus of the US Navy. They needed a watch that went beyond capable, a watch that could provide accurate, reliable timekeeping no matter where their divers went or what they had to do. The Fifty Fathoms was to all intents and purposes, the only watch to meet all their criteria – except for one feature that they demanded were added to the watch: a moisture indicator.

Above water, you can usually tell if there’s moisture in your watch from condensation, but deep down it’s much less simple. And so Blancpain added the moisture indicator, something you never want to see go off. On the Fifty Fathoms, it’s the two-part disc at 6 o’clock and shows whether water is getting into your timepiece, thus ruining any semblance of timekeeping. It means that you can cut your losses and get out of the water before you run into trouble – a potentially life-saving element.

That indicator is the focal point of the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3, a tribute to the non-magnetic MIL-SPEC watches of the US Navy. The black dial and bronze gold case (a version of bronze that won’t discolour your skin) illustrate its prestige nature, but the overall look of the watch is distinctly utilitarian. There’s no superfluous information here, nothing unnecessary.

That case puts 300m of water resistance around the calibre 1154.P2 automatic movement, a 1,000-gauss anti-magnetic calibre with both a silicon balance spring and a superb 100-hour power reserve via its double mainspring. You can see it all through the exhibition caseback.

Seventy years is worth an anniversary – and something like the Fifty Fathoms deserves more than one. It started with a vintage throwback in the Act 1, then delved into modern performance with the Act 2; now Blancpain is exploring its military heritage and the result speaks for itself.

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Some say you shouldn’t change a winning formula, but in the case of the new generation Baltic Bicompax 003, I don’t mind a bit of experimentation. While the MR01 is the current favourite of the French brand’s line-up and the Aquascaphe diver is their original signature, the Bicompax and associated time-only sibling the HMS are their bread and butter. And while fresh sourdough and proper salted butter are a winning combination, a touch of something extra is never bad – hence this welcome upgrade to the 002 series.

Baltic has always been billed as one of the best vintage-designed brands on the market at their wonderfully accessible  price point. And they are. But there’s always been a slight issue in that 38mm is small for now… but it’s not a truly vintage size. Try on anything from the 1950s and ‘60s and it’ll likely feel tiny compared to modern watches, even at the smaller end of the scale. Not so the Bicompax 003, which has been downsized from 38mm of stainless steel to 36.5mm.

You might expect that to feel much smaller on the wrist, but honestly not so much. It’s still the same thickness, which is already a svelte 13mm, and if you can comfortably wear a 38mm watch, you won’t have an issue here. It’s just much truer to the vintage inspirations behind Baltic as a whole. It’s actually not a new size for Baltic either; they released the same case in their collaboration with Revolution and The Rake a couple years ago, this just brings it mainstream. Thank god.

Funnily enough, despite the smaller size, Baltic have managed to do more with the dial. Gone are all the Arabic numerals, replaced instead by 12, six, and a series of indexes for a more minimal, elegant look. More importantly though, they’re now applied rather than painted. Not only does this bring some added three dimensionality to the dial, but it looks and feels far, far more sophisticated. There are a few subtler changes too; the minute track has been made narrower and more technical with five minute markings and the word ‘manual’ has been removed from under the Bicompax lettering.

The result is a dial that has more room to breathe. The various concentric circles of the Bicompax 002 gave it an Art Deco-adjacent look, one that on a smaller watch would have looked way too crowded. Even then, I much prefer the less-is-more approach the Bicompax 003 has adopted. It might just be the most handsome vintage-styled chronograph around right now. Definitely in this price range.

The new version comes in three colourways, two of which will be familiar to fans. There’s the signature blue gilt, which is a combination of dark blue and gold that Baltic have adopted as their de facto signature. There’s also the version we have here, in silver and blue, that’s just a slightly palette- tweaked take on the black and silver. Then there’s the salmon, which ostensibly replaces the plain black, but has likely been adopted more because of the MR01’s success than anything else. And more power to it. I’m personally a bit done with salmon right now, but there’s definitely a market for it. It’ll do very, very well.

The silver blue though is my favourite. It’s crisper, cleaner and lets the additional level of finishing speak for itself a bit more, especially with the contrast between dial and applied numerals and indexes. There’s something very 1940s about it that I adore.

Now, onto the negatives. While the Bicompax 003 is a marked step up from the 002 aesthetically (feel free to argue with me on that but know that you’re wrong), it’s exactly the same mechanically. I completely understand that at this price point, you want an accessible movement, but Seagull are increasingly feeling cheap to me. They look the part, especially through the massively open sapphire caseback here, but don’t feel as solid or reliable as their Swiss or Japanese counterparts.

You could quite rightly argue that at under £500, you need to cut corners, and at least Seagull have fewer supply issues than some movement-makers, but these days Baltic are up against some stiff competition. They nailed the look; they just need to up the ante mechanically. Honestly, I’d happily pay a bit more for an upgraded version too.

That is, honestly what I expected with the Bicompax 003, a bit of a price increase in line with the overhauled looks and better finishing. But no, Baltic have kept it exactly the same – €540, or just over £460. That I can really admire. Does it make it the best value for money chronograph on the market? Probably not. But there’s an argument for it being the best vintage-styled one.

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Lyzadie Design Dance of Geometry, NZD 600-1,100 (approx. £280- £510)

The Dance of Geometry series by Lyzadie Design is an homage to the oxymoron of stone in that it’s a solid material with a natural flow to it. That element is captured in the repeated geometric shapes of the candelabra that work in cohesion and against the natural properties of the andesite. Lyzadie Design is a New Zealand based interior design specialist working with local materials and embracing traditional style with contemporary twists.

Available at Lyzadie Design.

Roderer James Aviator, $135 (approx. £105)

Polarised Sunglasses Roderer is a menswear specialist focusing on high quality essentials for the modern man. These are the James Aviator Polarised Sunglasses which are handcrafted from stainless steel in the classic aviator style which suits occasions of all types from formal to casual. There are five different finishes available including silver, gunmetal, green, rose gold and black, allowing for plenty of choice when it comes to perfecting your personal style. Additionally, it comes with a leather style case, travel pouch and cleaning cloth.

Available at Roderer.

Lebarde Pine Tree Balm

Lebarde are a natural cosmetics company inspired by the Colchis region of Georgia, which has traditions of cosmetic production dating back all the way to ancient myths. The primary ingredients of their Pine Tree Balm are inspired by the natural environments and resources of the Caucasus mountains. Its combination of vitamins alongside natural compounds provide protective and rejuvenation properties.

Coming soon at Lebarde.

&SONS Navy Prospector Jacket, £295

The &SONS Prospector Jacket Navy is a durable canvas jacket designed for year-round wear. There’s a soft wool-mix liner that is removable so that the garment can keep you warm in autumn, while remaining cool in the spring. In fact, the lining is also wearable on its own as a cardigan. This aspect of the jacket is inspired by vintage canvas jackets that traditionally featured blanket linings, while also bringing a modern versatility to the concept.

Available at &SONS.

Skydiamond Ring

When you first read about Skydiamond it sounds like science fiction. They’re an ethical jewellery brand that fabricate their own diamonds by taking harmful CO2 out of the atmosphere and using the carbon to make diamond. What’s more, by using solar and wind energy to power the intense processes required, the diamonds are ultimately carbon negative as no fossil fuels are used in their production and they remove carbon from the atmosphere. The diamonds are available individually or as part of jewellery such as this Skydiamond Ring. Prices vary based on custom choice of gem cut, setting and ring material.

Available at Skydiamond.

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G-Shock has teamed up with Hong Kong fashion brand 4A Like Black for the release of the “Heroic Kogiant” set, which includes a large 36-centimeter figure and a DW-5600E-1V watch that can be worn on the figure’s wrist. The release commemorates the 40th Anniversary of G-Shock and the 20th Anniversary of 4A Like Black, which […]

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Gradients are a great way to add dynamic colour to a wristwatch, fading gradually from one colour to another in a seamless transition. Of course, there are a lot of ways to produce a gradient design but the most popular is without a doubt a style known as fumé. Fumé, meaning smoked, is a radial gradient pattern that starts light in the centre of the dial and gets darker towards the periphery. In extreme examples it can pass through almost an entire spectrum from white to black but for the most part they’re more subtle – the key aspect is that it gives the dial a smoky appearance. It’s also a technique that is used at all levels of horology all the way up to £50k+ H. Mosers. However, you most certainly don’t need to spend a fortune because there are plenty of sub £2,500, accessible fumé dial watches out there, here are some of our favourites.

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It’s not an understatement to say that 1945 was a pretty significant year in human history, bringing to a close World War Two. That turbulent time saw some of the most rapid development in technology in all areas of life including horology. In particular the creation of the Dirty Dozen popularised the concept of the field watch, a robust and accurate timepiece designed to take a beating in the field. Paying tribute to this history is the Vario 1945 D12 Field Watch.

The new military design pays tribute in a number of ways, including right there in the watch’s name: 1945 a reference to the year and D12 literally being an abbreviation of Dirty Dozen. However, more important than that are the aesthetic similarities, which are particularly apparent on the Raven Black edition with its black dial, railway minute track and small seconds subdial. The other three colourways are less traditional but equally cool in Army Green, Sand Beige and Shadow Grey.

As for the case, it’s a 37mm diameter piece in stainless steel with a combination of polished and brushed surfaces across the flanks and flat bezel. The crown is positioned at 4 o’clock so that it avoids digging into your wrist during strenuous activity. And while it’s no dive watch, 100m water resistance will keep it ticking in any weather or following the occasional dip in a large puddle at the bottom of a trench.

Interestingly, there’s a choice of three casebacks that you can give the 1945 D12 Field Watch. The first, standard caseback is a solid steel piece with an engraving of a World War Two soldier silhouetted in the outline of a modern soldier. The second option is a solid caseback with a custom engraving for an extra £40 and lastly there’s a sapphire exhibition caseback for £25 that reveals the movement housed inside.

That movement is the Miyota 82S5, an automatic calibre with 42-hour power reserve and -20/+40 seconds per day accuracy. It’s a solid enough movement and with Côtes de Genève it looks nice through the exhibition caseback if you choose that option. Crucially, it also helps the watch to remain incredibly accessible with the standard model costing just £306.

The Vario 1945 D12 Field Watch manages to ride the line between being a faithful tribute to the Dirty Dozen while also introducing some interesting colourways. I particularly like the Shadow Grey edition, it reminds me of the Airain Type 20 Furtivé which is one of my favourite watches of the entire year. It really feels like the 1945 D12 is punching dramatically above its weight.

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Casio America is now accepting pre-orders (at $65 each) for the G-Shock book written by Ariel Adams and published by Rizzoli, with an estimated ship date of October 10. It is also available for pre-orders on Amazon for a little less, with a release date of September 26. The book is highly anticipated and expected […]

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