Bagmaker Porter’s parent company Yoshida & Co. is releasing a limited G-Shock DW-5900 collaboration with its POTR brand for the first time. The matte black watch features POTR’s signature turquoise blue color for the logos and labels on the bezel and face. A POTR logo appears on the EL backlight, and the case back has […]
G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog
Detail means everything in film, just as it means everything in watchmaking. So, it’s not surprising that many directors and prop departments pay special attention to the watches on their character’s wrists. And if you watch a Christopher Nolan film from the last few years there’s a good chance that you’ll spot some Hamilton watches, as they feature prominently in both Interstellar, Tenet and now Oppenheimer.
In some respects, this is the film where it makes the most sense for the characters to be wearing Hamilton watches. For one, it’s set in America and Hamilton was based in America until 2003 when it became part of the Swatch group and moved to Switzerland. Secondly, this is a film based in historical events, which to my mind suits the grounded aesthetics of Hamilton far better than sci-fi adventures.
Speaking of history, a key attribute that Nolan wanted to achieve when it came to watches in his film was to have them all be period accurate vintage models. While Hamilton’s archives are deep, they don’t necessarily contain screen-ready pieces from the 40s and 50s. As such, they reached out to well known collectors and enthusiasts to source the watches – much in the same way that you might research and source a grail watch you wanted to add to your personal collection. Although I imagine “Christopher Nolan wants your watch in his film – Hamilton” is an easier sell than “how much do you want for it? – Steve from online.”
Cushion B (1930s) – worn by J. Robert Oppenheimer
Ultimately Hamilton were able to procure six stunning vintage watches for the film, so let’s take a closer look. The first three are all worn by Cillian Murphy in his titular role as J. Robert Oppenheimer and they are the Cushion B, Endicott and Lexington. The Cushion B as its name suggests features a cushion case design that screams retro Americana in the same vein as the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 that makes you want to get behind the wheel of a classic car and devour a New Mexico highway. It’s completed with a white dial and oversize Arabic numerals.
Endicott (1940s) – worn by J. Robert Oppenheimer
Next up is the Endicott which is a little more refined with a round design in a brassy gold-plated colour with matching numerals and hands. It also has a more intricate dial with a sub-counter at 6 o’clock for the small seconds, giving it a more precise feel. It gives it vibe of a watch that a scientist dealing with precision instruments might actually use.
Lexington (1940s) – worn by J. Robert Oppenheimer
Oppenheimer’s last watch is the Lexington, which is my personal favourite of the trio. A steel model with a round shape, short crown, black dial and white numerals. It has a more military feel to it, like it might be the successor to a Dirty Dozen field watch, but with just enough Art Deco influence to remain civilian. What power in a film about the infinite greys of human morality to have a black and white watch. A physical representation of the quandaries Oppenheimer is facing about good, evil and the bomb.
The next two watches Hamilton provided for the film are worn by Matt Damon in his role as General Leslie Groves, Jr. They’re the Military Ordinance and the Piping Rock. We were just talking about the Dirty Dozen and the Military Ordinance might as well be their American cousin, at least in style. It’s built like a tank with a thick bezel and oversize crown made to endure the trials of adventure and conflict. The dial itself is hyper legible in black and white just like the Dozen. If the Lexington left the army to embrace civilian style, then the Military Ordinance is a lifelong veteran.
Military Ordnance (1940s) – worn by Lieutenant General Leslie Groves
Hamilton Piping Rock (1920s) – worn by Lieutenant General Leslie Groves
Damon’s second watch is the Piping Rock, which is the most unusual piece in the film. The watch body itself is circular but it’s housed within an open tonneau frame that leads into a wide lug bar. It makes it feel bigger and more imposing while the dial and display are relatively subdued. A Roman Numeral bezel, a railway rack minute scale, very shapely hands. It’s military at a dress parade rather than military setting off a bomb.
Lady Hamilton A-2 (1947) – worn by Kitty Oppenheimer
The final vintage Hamilton featuring in Oppenheimer is the Lady Hamilton A-2 in 14k gold, as worn by Emily Blunt in her role as Kitty Oppenheimer. It’s incredibly delicate with a 13.5mm x 15mm x 8.7mm rectangle design on a super thin bracelet. Although it’s worth pointing out that all the watches here are very small by modern standards: the Cushion B. is only 26.7mm and the Military Ordinance is the biggest at 32mm. We often talk about watches that are 38/37mm as “vintage proportion” but it’s worth remembering that actual vintage pieces could be a lot smaller than that.
One thing’s for sure, Oppenheimer promises to be a watch spotter’s dream. I’ve already got tickets booked for when it hits cinemas on Friday July 21st.
Oracle Time
These days Tissot are inextricably linked to the success of the PRX. The accessible integrated sports watch has been an indelible hit and today accounts for an incredible percentage of the brand’s sales. I won’t say exactly how much; I’m not sure I’m allowed. Suffice it to say, it’s been good for them.
That’s not a bad thing, far from it. With the latest 35mm automatic variations, a few cool dial colours (ice blue, for example) and more riffing on the motif to come, they’re doing good things with the PRX. But it must be tempting to focus on their flagship model to the detriment of all else. They wouldn’t be the first brand to rely almost exclusively on a 1970s Genta-flavoured design. Thankfully the Tissot Sideral is a very different prospect.
Funnily enough, the Sideral is also from the 1960s/70s golden age of watch design. But rather than the slew of industrial, faceted watches that came out, the original watch was all about materials. Specifically, it used a monobloc fibreglass case, lightweight and at the time incredibly innovative. The colourful material was formed into an equally fun barrel-shaped case (it’s wider than what I’d call tonneau) for a seriously cool combination. Well, it’s back for 2023 and even more summer-ready than ever before.
The biggest change from the original is the case. Rather than fibreglass, the barrel case is now in forged carbon, arguably the modern successor to fibreglass and a lot better than the more common carbon fibre. That does mean it has a bit less colour, but given the brightness of hues on offer, toning it down a little’s no bad thing, particularly when it includes the quirky organic grain of forged carbon.
Instead, some of that colour has been brought onto the dial. On the original ‘70s version, the pronounced minute scale on the dial was in grey, against a black backdrop. It stood out, especially with the red and green regatta scale at 12 to two o’clock. Out of the three watches of the revamped Sideral, one maintains the original grey. The others however have changed it either to bright yellow or warm-weather-ready blue, the versions we have here in fact, which are the ones I much prefer. The mix of grey and forged carbon just doesn’t pop as much.
Not that you can’t add some extra colour of course. Both the blue and yellow come on colour-matched perforated rubber straps lifted directly from the original watch, while the grey’s default pairing is red. But you can also switch any of them out for green, orange, or black, whichever you feel like. Personally, I’d keep the default options, but I can see the pairing of green and yellow working nicely in a combination as refreshing as a can of Sprite.
On the wrist, it’s definitely light, just a bit weightier than you might be expecting. For me, that’s a massive positive, as my one issue with carbon is that it ends up feeling like a toy. There’s still a bit of that here, but just enough to make it comfortable without feeling flimsy. Paired with the perforated straps, the Sideral might just be one of the most wearable summer watches so far.
That said, while it might be a great, funky watch for the season, it’s still a serious diver. The authentic ‘70s unidirectional rotating bezel has seen a slight upgrade in crisp aesthetics, but is otherwise a standard, effective diving number. The Sideral case also has 300m water resistance, so it stands shoulder-to-shoulder with many much more serious, utilitarian divers. It might even be a cut above many of them, with its lumed bezel and regatta scale and, of course, it’s movement.
The movement is the Powermatic 80. That’s not a surprise by now, it’s Swatch Groups ubiquitous entry-level movement for Tissot, Certina et al, and is one of the best accessible calibres on the market. Its 80 hours of power reserve is just the start, as it also includes a Nivachron hairspring for greater anti-magnetism and has all the reliability of the ETA 2824 that it’s based on. It also features an engraved rotor, but then what doesn’t?
The Sideral has a lot going for it; colour, heritage, diving specs, but what it really comes down to is price. Tissot are first and foremost a maker of solid, accessible watches (hence the success of the PRX), so where does this land? Well, at £915, it’s a lot of watch for the money, even by their standards. It won’t be eclipsing its sporty stablemate any time soon, but it’s good to see not just something a bit more tied to Tissot heritage – which still has plenty to offer, if you’re ever inclined to Google some of their vintage models – but is a fantastic watch in and of itself. In lieu of the unobtainable ice blue PRX 40mm, the yellow Sideral will do very, very nicely.
Model: Tissot Sideral
Ref: T145.407.97.057.00 (yellow)
T145.407.97.057.01 (blue)
T145.407.97.057.02 (red)
Case/dial: 41mm diameter, forged carbon and stainless steel case, black PVD bezel, black dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Tissot calibre Powermatic 80, automatic
Frequency: 21,600 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 80h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Perforated rubber with bracelet fastening system
Price/availability: £915
More details at Tissot.
Oracle Time
Longines have one of the most diverse ranges of watches on the market ranging from popular dive watches like the HydroConquest to retro pilots in the vein of the Spirit Zulu and refined classics such as the Master Collection. In fact, Longines launched a series of Masters last year to celebrate their 190th anniversary. Now they’re expanding on the Master collection again in the form of a new Small Seconds model at 38.5mm.
In terms of style and design, the new watch clearly owes a lot to that 190th anniversary series. It has a very similar case with a sweeping, round shape and a smooth, polished bezel. The major difference is the size, with the new piece measuring just 38.5mm in diameter, making it feel much more refined and elegant.
That elegance is evident on the dial as well, which is available in two distinct colourways. The first is a vertically brushed salmon version with engraved anthracite numerals and black hands while the second is the reverse. Both look incredibly smart with the striking contrast between the grey and copper tones – particularly around the Breguet style numerals. Admittedly we have seen similar colours before but they are really nice, it’s worth getting excited about them again.
What makes the 2023 piece special is the addition of a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock with sunray brushed finishing. Small seconds functions have a lot of uses in watch displays, typically revolving around the fact that the central hand stack is being used for something else such as a chronograph. Here, the choice to include a subdial is entirely aesthetic. It simply looks more interesting and refined than a plain dial and there’s nothing wrong with that.
Between the lovely dial and classical case, you’d almost expect the Longines Master Small Seconds Salmon and Anthracite to have the price tag of a high end dress watch. But the fact that it’s steel and not white gold means it won’t break the bank at £2,250. It also has a really solid movement for the price, the L893 with 72-hour power reserve. All that remains is to pick a favourite and what can I say, I’m a sucker for salmon.
Model: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds
Ref: L2.843.4.93.2 (salmon), L2.843.4.63.2 (anthracite)
Case/dial: 38.5mm diameter x 10.20mm thickness, stainless steel case, salmon or anthracite dial
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Longines calibre L893, automatic
Frequency: 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 64h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Alligator leather
Price/availability: £2,250
More details at Longines.
Oracle Time
Another year, another cool new look for the Captain Cook. It seems like forever ago that the retro diver, based on a piece first built well over 60 years ago, became an overnight hit for Rado, but they’ve packed a lot into the intervening years since its 2017 comeback. While that initial reissue-adjacent release was relatively faithful to the classic original, it’s a design that’s since been put through its paces in all manner of styles leading to the new Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton.
Over the years, the Captain Cook has seen more than its fair share of ceramic, which is what we’ve come to expect from Rado. They pioneered the material in watchmaking over the past 35 years or so, and it only makes sense that their most popular modern watch gets the same 4,000-degree treatment. It’s also seen some skeletonisation, shorthand for tech-forward, modern watchmaking. Which all leads to their latest.
So, for some of you this particular piece might look a little familiar, even more so if you have an archive of Oracle Time issues knocking about. Its predecessor graced our cover last year and for good reason. It was a limited edition tour de force of Rado’s particular style of watchmaking – and now it’s back, in a sexy non-limited, bi-colour form – and after a week on the wrist, I really don’t want to send back.
I love bi-colour, perhaps a bit more than I should. I know there are purists out there that would insist that there’s no place for gold – or anything that looks like gold – in a utilitarian tool watch, and don’t worry I’m not going to argue that because it’s corrosion resistant, it’s shark proof. But then, like the vast majority of collectors, I don’t dive, so as far as I’m concerned, it’s not a problem.
But while the likes of the Tudor Black Bay S&G and Rolex Explorer (among many, many others) go for the classic yellow gold and steel combination, here things are a bit more nuanced. It still has that boat-to-boardroom vibe, but the gold plating on the bezel is rose rather than yellow and the solid, monobloc case is a subtle dark grey – and is, of course, ceramic.
The particular ceramic in question is Rado’s Plasma High-Tech Ceramic, which takes things a step further than ‘just’ baking it in a furnace. The process involves taking finished white ceramic and baking it at a further 20,000 degrees where a miasma of very particular gasses give it the grey, metallic sheen you see here. It’s a good deal different from the slick blacks or whites we’re more used to and much more in keeping with a dive watch. It still has all the hallmarks of ceramic of course; it’s lightweight while giving a sledgehammer a run for its money (though I don’t recommend testing it) and even the briniest of depths won’t corrode it.
There’s something to be said for the sleeker, shinier nature of the more common black or white ceramic, just not here. That particular look works incredibly well for Rado’s more design-focused pieces like the True Square et al, but the Captain Cook demands something with a particularly rugged look and feel – and the Plasma High-Tech Ceramic is definitely that.
As a material it also wears incredibly well. Yes, it’s light, which is nice, but not as light as titanium, so it still has some heft to it (incidentally, the lighter, middle links of the bracelet are in fact titanium). At the same time, it’s the kind of tactile you’ll find yourself unconsciously running your fingers across. It might look like metal, but it doesn’t feel like it. It’s been particularly comfortable in the bout of rare warm weather we’ve been having here in London, and that’s coming from someone that normally prefers a decent rubber strap for summer. Going back to plain ol’ steel has been a bit of a comedown.
Like the previous version, the new Captain Cook measures in at 43mm across. It’s a bit bigger than I’d like, but thanks to its light weight and relatively short lugs, it suits even my diminutive wrists. I do still hold out hope they’ll bring this into a smaller, more vintage- sized version (40mm would be ideal) and a little slimmer than its 14.6mm of height. Still, the larger size makes it feel more modern, in line with both the case material and the dial – or more accurately, the lack of it.
There’s absolutely no dial to speak of here. The indexes are still there so it’s as practically readable as ever, with flat-tipped triangles for the cardinal points and rectangles elsewhere, but with an open view of the movement underneath. Unfortunately, I don’t find it the most interesting view. The calibre R808 is certainly a solid movement, with 80 hours of power reserve and a Nivachron hairspring, but from the front it’s hard to see it as anything other than the modified ETA it is. Some kind of coloured bridge or a bit more finishing would go a long way to making it aesthetically special enough to show off, above and beyond the innate coolness of a visible movement. It’s a bit more handsome when viewed from the back with subtle cotes de Geneve on the rotor, but still feels relatively spartan.
Perhaps I’m being unfair there, expecting the kind of finishing of a much more expensive watch in something that’s already offering a torpedo’s worth of bang for your buck. It’s just that, given the excellence of the rest of the watch – and it really is a fantastic piece – the little things stick out like a periscope. The fact that movement finishing is the only one that readily springs to mind says a lot.
As for what that price is, we’re looking at £4,150. Based on the specs alone, the plasma-finished ceramic, the 80-hour power reserve and the 300m water resistance that’s par for the course for the Captain Cook, that’s a decent price. As a cutting-edge, bi-colour piece I’ve slightly fallen in love with, it’s a worryingly tempting prospect.
Model: Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton
Ref: R32148162
Case/dial: 43mm diameter x 14.6mm thickness, high-tech ceramic case
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Rado calibre R808, automatic, 25 jewels
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 80h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: High-tech ceramic bracelet
Price/availability: £4,150
More details at Rado.
Oracle Time
Love them, hate them, love to hate them, the Paul brothers are here to stay. The pair originally found notoriety on Vine before moving to YouTube with their vlog content documenting their crazy lives. These days they’re better known in sports entertainment in the fields of wrestling and boxing respectively. They’ve also courted controversy at every step of the way but far from seeing them cancelled, it’s only added to the intrigue and attention that they generate. Considering that their content revolves around their lavish lives, it’s no surprise that they each have quite the collection of watches. Although just because they’re expensive doesn’t necessarily mean they’re tasteful. We put them head-to-head across three rounds to find out who has the better watch collection, Jake Paul or Logan Paul.
Logan Paul’s career has seen him go from erstwhile YouTuber to a mainstream personality. Recently he’s become a regular performer at the WWE, having made an appearance at Wrestlemania 39 as well as the recent Money in the Bank event in London. The WWE seems like the perfect place for his over the top antics and larger than life character – sure he gets booed every time he makes an entrance but WWE has always celebrated its heels as much as its superstars. With all the attention he brings to whatever project he’s part of, be it wrestling, podcasts or Prime energy drinks, it’s no surprise that he’s been able to buy more than a few standout watches. In the ring for him today are the Rolex Day-Date II Platinum, Richard Mille Felipe Massa and Rolex Day-Date 228345RBR.
The other half of the Pauls, Jake Paul has also moved into the arena of professional sport, although instead of wrestling he’s moved into pro-boxing. In terms of mainstream notoriety, Jake is arguably the better known of the two brothers due to boxing’s wider appeal as a sport. Just like his brother he has a bad-boy attitude that sees him throw more than a little trash talk and disrespect at his opponents. Jake Paul’s watch collection is a lot more controversial than his brother’s and the referee for this bout has already disqualified one of Jake’s heavy hitters, the RM055 Bubba Watson, for being fake. In his corner are the Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton, Richard Mille RM 11-03 ‘Ivory’ and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph.
In the first round we have a clash of two absolutely classic watches, the Rolex Day-Date and the Cartier Santos. In terms of reputation, both are right at the top when it comes to status, with the Day-Date being favoured by presidents while the Santos is a staple on red carpets across the globe.
The story behind the Rolex is Logan Paul’s watch collection dates back to 2017, when the Paul brothers’ vlog content was at its highest, Logan recorded a video about purchasing a Rolex Day-Date II Platinum Ref. 218206, which you can still watch. Admittedly the video itself is a little deceiving as the title and thumbnail claim that Logan is going to buy a Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime but that’s pure clickbait. As the video reveals, he only tried that watch on and didn’t buy it.
Instead, he buys the Day-Date, which is a really nice watch on its own and would’ve been perfect for a YouTube video without the bait and switch. It has a 41mm platinum case with a smooth bezel, which until 2022 has been the norm for modern platinum models despite the fluted bezel being a signature of the Day-Date. The dial is a gorgeous ice blue colour with roman numerals for the hour markers. Across the top portion of the dial is the legendary days window that gives the model its name. While Logan might be a heel, this is a watch that the crowd loves.
Swinging back with a passion is Jake Paul’s Cartier Santos De Cartier Skeleton. I’m initially impressed with the watch as the Santos is a gorgeous watch with an important place in horology history. It’s argued that it was the first watch designed specifically to be worn on the wrist and in being made for a pilot, was also the world’s first pilot’s watch.
In its skeletonised form, the modern-day Santos goes beyond its tool watch origins to become a sculptural object combining intricate shapes. However, the whole thing is ruined when you look at Jake Paul’s version and see that he’s had it customised with after-market diamonds across the dial, bezel and case. This immediately turns a refined timepiece into something altogether more tasteless and of less value.
It’s sad to say that in this round, Jake Paul’s own technical faults by having aftermarket diamonds has completely destroyed any chance the Cartier had against the Rolex. The Rolex comes in off the top rope with the steel chair to deliver a decisive finish.
Result: Logan 1 – Jake 0
The second round is a battle of the Richard Milles with the Felipe Massa flyback chronograph going up against the ‘Ivory’ flyback chronograph. This is going to be a close fight. They’re very similar RMs but one is an F1 special edition and the other is an off-catalogue exclusive.
Let’s kick the round off with Logan Paul’s watch collection again, who is using his experience at the WWE to make this a tag team match as both he and his business partner KSI own the same watch, albeit slightly different versions of it. Logan’s one is titanium and rose gold, combining the durability of the titanium with the luxurious aesthetic of the gold.
The Felipe Massa, named after the Brazilian F1 driver, is a flyback chronograph model with the signature RM tonneau case measuring 49.94mm x 44.50mm. It’s no shrinking violet, matching the braggadocios attitude Logan is known for. In terms of complications, well there are a few. It has hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph seconds, a 60-minute countdown timer, a 60-minute timer, a 12-hour timer, date and months. It’s powered by the RMAC1 automatic calibre with 55-hour power reserve.
Fighting on the other side of the ring is the RM 11-03 ‘Ivory’ from Jake Paul’s watch collection. This was actually a last-minute substitution after multiple trusted watch experts exposed the fact that Jake Paul’s RM055 Bubba Watson – one of the most sought after and expensive watches in the world – is a fake. The identifiable marks that led to it being called out are the distances between the screws in the bezel, which are too close together, and the overall thickness of the piece. Plus, there are concerns that it’s probably made from plastic rather than high tech ceramic.
Having evidently learned from his mistake with the Bubba Watson, Jake Paul has got himself a genuine Richard Mille with a similar all white aesthetic, the ‘Ivory’. It can be distinguished from the Bubba Watson easily, despite them both having white ceramic cases, because the RM 11-03 ‘Ivory’ is a chronograph. Which means it has the characteristically chunky RM pushers flanking the crown whereas the Bubba doesn’t. In terms of movement, the RM 11-03 houses the RMAC3 which is a newer generation of the RMAC1, which the main differences being aesthetic changes to better suit a skeletonised display.
Interestingly the ‘Ivory’ is an off-catalogue exclusive that’s only made available to select Richard Mille customers. Which makes the misstep of the Bubba even stranger considering Paul owns several genuine RMs and presumably has a good relationship with the brand if they’d allow him to buy an ‘Ivory’. While there’s no official price, one sold for over $800,000 a few years back.
The question of who wins this round really comes down to personal taste, do you prefer the more venerable RM 011 or the younger RM 11-03. This would be a split decision from the refs but I think by dint of being the vastly more exclusive of the two, Jake Paul’s ‘Ivory’ takes it.
Result: Logan 1 – Jake 1
In the knockdown, drag out fight to determine who has the better watch collection between the Paul Brothers, we’ve come to the third and final round with Logan and Jake each taking one round. It’s a similar matchup to the first round seeing another Rolex going up against a diamond-clad classic in the form of the Royal Oak.
The Rolex in question is the second Day-Date in Logan’s collection, specifically the Day-Date 228345RBR. It’s a full rose gold model with a diamond bezel and an olive green dial launched in celebration of the Day-Date’s anniversary. In fact, that olive dial is known as the anniversary dial in honour of the milestone. While I’d personally prefer to see it with the fluted bezel, Logan has gone for the diamond-set edition. We can’t knock it too much though because it is at least factory set rather than aftermarket and regardless of whether you like the ice, there’s no deny it’s a smart Rolex.
Specs-wise it’s powered by the 3255 automatic calibre with perpetual winding and a 70-hour power reserve. It also features an accuracy of +/- 2 seconds per day and is protected by high performance paraflex shock absorbers.
Fighting on the side of Jake Paul’s watch collection is the Royal Oak Chronograph Ref. 26320ST.OO.1220ST.02. The Royal Oak collection helped to reinvigorate watchmaking in the 70s bringing fresh ideas and new energy to what felt like an ailing industry. The focus on steel with high end finishing was radical and helped cement the notions of sports luxe design and integrated bracelets as an industry staple. Jake Paul’s follows in this tradition being steel itself.
However, it falls afoul of the same issue that plagued Jake’s Cartier, afterset diamonds. Instead of being able to see the Tapisserie dial or the brushed case, all we have is mad coating of diamonds that looks pretty garish and ugly. It really is a shame because we know that Jake has owned good APs in the past, such as a plain Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph. Not to mention that he’s been seen wearing the diamond AP alongside and equally iced-out Datejust, as if one full diamond watch weren’t enough.
It makes comparing the calibres almost irrelevant, which is a shame because the AP Calibre 2385 is solid. An automatic with 40-hour power reserve featuring hour, minute, small seconds, 30-minute timer, 12-hour timer, chronograph seconds and date complications.
This final round might be a battle or diamonds vs diamonds but there’s no contest. Logan’s Rolex Day-Date 228345RBR is the winner by KO. So, there you have it, once we tally up the scores Logan Paul has the best watch collection out of the two brothers.
Result: Logan 2 – Jake 1
Oracle Time
The team behind Cestrian have over 35 years of experience in watch design and want to bring that to bear with a brand that rigorously strives to ensure get the best possible value. The Dive is a 42mm diving watch with a sapphire crystal, 300m water resistance and a ceramic diving bezel. Powering the watch is the Seiko NH35 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve. With those kind of specs you might expect to pay anywhere from £200 to £1,000 but Cestrian have passed the value onto you with a price of just £150.
Available at Cestrian Dive.
The LM01 Type D is the debut watch from French newcomer NEOTYPE following a successful Kickstarter in 2022. It has a 40mm steel case in diver’s watch style, boasting a 30 ATM water- resistance, a 3.5mm sapphire glass, a screw-down crown and a sandwich dial. There are a handful of versions such as this black dial, steel case edition, as well as gold and black PVD options. All LM01 Type D models are limited from 20 to 100 pieces and each watch is individually numbered.
Available at Neotype.
Monbrey are a microbrand inspired by contemporary reinterpretations of retro designs. Exploring the ways in which we interact with the past and past trends by recontextualising them for modern tastes. Their MB1 wristwatch is designed with a 1970s wedge design language and style. The result is a classy timepiece with a 38.5mm, angular case housing the Miyota 9039 automatic calibre. This is the L08 edition with a royal purple dial with sunray brushed finishing, presented on a black Italian leather strap.
Pre-order at Indiegogo.
Argos Watches are a young Filipino brand inspired by the concept that watches are meant to be lifelong companions. That’s why the brand itself and their flagship watch are named after one of the most popular stories in history, The Odyssey and Odysseus’ faithful dog Argos. They create utilitarian watches built to withstand the rigors of life. The Odyssey is a 38mm steel piece with a textured, quasi-sector dial in cream or blue, housing the Seiko NH35A automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve.
Available at Argos Watches.
BWG Bavarian Watch are a German watch brand which create watches inspired by the dual personality of Bavaria. On the one hand you have soaring castles and on the other, you have the bustling, modern city of Munich. As such, BWG watches tread a line between luxurious design and practical utility, which is exemplified in the Isaria model with its 42.2mm case with 200m water resistance and bold design. The name and colourway options come from the river Isar, which flows through Munich.
Pre-order at BWG.
Oracle Time
Story Cellar is the next step in the Restaurant Story journey. Restaurant Story is one of the premier London dining experiences and Story Cellar takes the same concepts and reimagines them as counter-style dining. Tom Sellars continues as the chef patron, but overseeing the kitchen is head chef Stephen Naylor, who has served as the sous chef at Restaurant Story for the past four years, meaning he’s intimately familiar with the menu and style. The signature dish of Story Cellar is their rotisserie chicken.
Where: 17 Neal’s Yard, Covent Garden, WC2H 9DP
Bookings: storycellar.co.uk
Kibako is one of the newest, high-end Japanese restaurants in London and specialises in a style of Japanese dining called kibako, a particular way of presenting omakase in a box. It’s the project of chef Padam Raj Raj, a man with over 21 years of experience in Japanese cuisine and who is an executive chef and co-owner of the Hot Stone group, the team behind the incredibly popular Hot Stone franchise. The premium omakase box meal comes with nine appertisers, sashimi and sushi with a choice of 48 hour marinated grilled black cod with spicy saikyo miso, or 48 hour marinated grilled salmon.
Where: 3 Windmill St, Fitzrovia, W1T 2HY
Bookings: kibakolondon.com
20 Berkeley is a restaurant that pays tribute to its British heritage with a focus on seasonal British produce that reflects the fact that Mayfair used to be the gateway between the city and the countryside. Housed inside a gorgeous Georgian style building, it offers a menu featuring Herdwick lamb, Shropshire Iberico pork, Newlyn John Dory and more. Plus, the Nipperkin Bar situated on the lower floor offers in-house distilled spirits.
Where: 20 Berkeley Street, Mayfair, W1J 8EE
Bookings: 20berkeley.com
Lilienblum is the latest project from chef Eyal Shani, who has brought in Oren King (previously of Roka and Hide) to head up the kitchen. Shani is best known for his quirky and irreverent style of service with the menu written in Comic Sans and featuring his own commentary on the dishes. For example, menu items include “Golden Fresh Focaccia wrapped in tomato, sage, spicy and sour cream. It’s a very bad idea to eat this, but there will be no regrets” and “Ribeye Steak, the way GOD intended”.
Where: 80 City Road, EC1Y 2BJ
Bookings: lilienblum.co.uk
After the main restaurant of the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel closed down, many wondered what would rise up to replace it and the answer is the Midland Grand Dining Room. The restaurant seeks to honour its late 19th century origins while bringing the menu up to speed for a modern cosmopolitan age. The set menu includes guinea fowl, ham hock and leek pâté en croute for starters and an Ox cheek pithivier main.
Where: St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Euston Road, NW1 2AR
Bookings: midlandgranddiningroom.com
Harrods are known for their revolving array of restaurants and now on the fourth floor they’ve opened the Dim Sum Terrace. Steamed dumplings with fillings such as saffron king crab, fermented chilli and Dover sole, and lobster and coriander. It’s the ultimate taste of pan-Asian cuisine. Not to mention that with the heated terrace and views overlooking the London sky-line, it’s a great spot for an evening meal under the late summer sun.
Where: Fourth Floor, 87–135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, SW1X 7XL
Bookings: harrods.com
After a successful run over in Borough Market, Mallow is expanding to a second location in Canary Wharf. The concept at the heart of Mallow is one ripe for summer with a 100% plant-based menu that showcases the best sustainable and seasonal ingredients and dishes. For example, there’s the pulled mushroom biryani, plum tomato shorba, cucumber coconut sambol, and cardamom raita with spiced almonds. Complementing the fresh and fragrant menu is a light and airy dining room equally decked out with plants.
Where: 12 Park Drive, Wood Wharf, Canary Wharf, E14 9ZW
Bookings: mallowlondon.com
Oracle Time
While we’re still waiting for the first glimpse of the new Baltic Experiments line, the French microbrand has announced the latest generation of their classic collection with the new Baltic HMS 003 and Bicompax 003 chronograph. Essentially, there are three new watches each available in time only and chronograph variants making for six references. If past launches like this are anything to go by, they’re going to be immensely popular.
Let’s start with the time only HMS 003 (HMS standing for hours, minutes, seconds). It has a 36.5mm diameter case in stainless steel giving it refined, vintage style proportions and a slim profile. It’s smaller than the previous HMS 002 which was 38mm. The use of hesalite glass also has a retro quality to it, although it might be even more so if it was box style rather than the high-domed design it actually has. The case itself has a combination of finishes with brushed flanks and a polished bezel.
Speaking of contrasting finishes, the dial also features a mix. The central disk has a sandy grain texture while the hour and minute scales have circular brushing. It suits the sector pattern of the dial well with its crosshair centre and appliqué hour markers. The three versions available are salmon, silver and blue gilt. The salmon and silver are very traditional classical colourways while the blue is a little bit flashier with its gold coloured accents.
Housed inside is the Miyota 8315 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve. It’s the same movement that was used in the previous HMS 002 despite the case being notably smaller. The value for money that this movement offers is great considering that the whole piece is only €360 (approx. £310).
In addition to the three-hand models there are the Bicompax 003 editions too. They’re basically the same in every way except for the addition of the chronograph complications. Specifically, they have the same 36.5mm case and the same set of colours in salmon, silver and blue gilt. While I’d probably say the salmon HMS 003 is my favourite, I like the blue gilt version of the chrono. The small seconds and 30-minute timer subdials add more structure to the display and in gold and blue it almost feels like a naval officer’s uniform – golden buttons and all.
Naturally, the presence of a chronograph means it houses a different movement. It’s the Seagull Manufacture ST1901 manual calibre with 42-hour power reserve. Both versions of the watch, chrono and non-chrono, come with closed steel casebacks, although there is the option to have an exhibition caseback added.
As for the price of the Bicompax 003, it’s €540 (approx. £460) making it equally accessible as the HMS 003. With the new diameter they also lean into their retro vibe to a greater degree and are very unisex, making them suitable for wrists of all sizes. A welcome addition to the classical range to be sure.
Model: Baltic HMS 003 & Bicompax 003
Case/dial: 36.5mm diameter x 13mm thickness, stainless steel case, silver blue/salmon/blue gilt dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 8315, automatic (HMS), Seagull calibre ST1901, manual winding (Bicompax)
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz) (HMS)
Power reserve: 60h (HMS) and 42h (Bicompax)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph (Bicompax)
Strap: Italian calf leather, stainless steel beads of rice, flat link or beads of rice straight bracelet
Price/availability: €360 (approx. £310) (HMS) and €540 (approx. £460) (Bicompax)
More details at Baltic.
Oracle Time
The SEE SEE x G-Shock DW-5600 collaboration watch was sold exclusively at the “Yes Good Market 2023” event, which took place on July 15 and 16 in Shizuoka City, Japan. The event was organized by Hiromichi Yumoto of homeware brand SEE SEE and fashion brand Stripes For Creative (S.F.C.), and sponsored by Urban Research. The […]
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