Category: News

Yesterday it was announced that Rolex is seeking to acquire the iconic watch retailer Bucherer, one of the largest and most prestigious independent watch retailers in the world with over 100 points of sale internationally. While the deal is yet to be approved by competition authorities, it’s already having a major impact on the watch retail landscape with rival retailer Watches of Switzerland seeing their market price drop suddenly.

Let’s focus on the Rolex x Bucherer announcement first. In a statement, Rolex has cited that as Jörg Bucherer has no descendants he is looking to sell his company’s business and as Rolex already has a close working relationship to the retailer (half of all Bucherer stores stock Rolex and Bucherer was one of the first to adopt Rolex’s Pre-Owned Certification scheme) it made sense for Rolex to jump at  the opportunity. Pending that competition approval, Bucherer will become part of the Rolex group operating as an independent entity under its existing management.

The somewhat cynical interpretation of this news is that this was always coming as soon as Rolex decided to step into the retail game to a larger extent with the introduction of that pre-owned scheme. They’ve always liked to control their branding and sales to a greater extent than most watchmakers and now they’ve consolidated that and have influence over all stages of their watches’ retail existence.

What this means for the rest of the watch industry is likely that Rolex will be battening down the hatches a little and limiting some of the current places that you can purchase them from. That’s pure speculation but it’s enough to make some people concerned with one of the most recognisable names in the industry becoming more exclusive – the result of which is already causing waves on the stock market for Bucherer’s rivals.

Most apparent is the effect on Watches of Switzerland which dropped on the London Stock Exchange from 693.5 to 499 in under 24 hours. Although it has since recovered to 540 and, as is the nature of stocks, is fluctuating all the time. What the lasting impact will be remains to be seen and until the Rolex x Bucherer deal is finalised we won’t know what the impact on customers and collectors will be either (other than the speculation that maybe we’ll get a Bucherer Blue Rolex). We’ll update this article with any relevant addendums.

More details at Bucherer.

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The MB&F HM9 Sapphire Vision (HM9-SV) is an odd watch to have a personal story attached to and yet surprisingly enough, that’s the case for me. Specifically, when it was launched back in 2021 I had just started working for Oracle Time so it was one of the first articles published while I was here. It feels like a full circle moment that now I get to write about the latest additions to that collection – those additions being two new colourways in blue and green.

At a baseline level, the HM9-SV is one of the craziest pieces of horology that you’ll ever see, with a sweeping, hyper-futuristic design that makes you question whether it even counts as a wristwatch. It’s more spaceship than a timekeeping device. It has three main chambers made from sapphire crystal supported by gold frames. The shape consists of two large bubbles on either side that connect to the central portion, at the end of which is the vertically situated time display.

As for the new colourways, the first one has a blue PVD movement with a white gold frame and the second has a green PVD movement and yellow gold frame. They’re really solid colour combinations that work well together. In the original launch there was a blue and yellow gold edition but the clash between the warm tone of the gold and the blue was a little off. Here though, the pairing of the blue with the cold white gold works perfectly.

Meanwhile the green and yellow gold complement each other nicely with an almost autumnal aesthetic, like the changing of the leaves – which sounds odd to say about a watch that visually has such a strong sci-fi vibe. Even just describing the mechanics of the piece sounds like science fiction with its double independent balance wheels and planetary differential system.

While these new watches aren’t quite as exciting as when the HM9 first made the transition to sapphire, they feel like more confident versions of the watch. The HM9-SV Blue and HM9-SV Green are both limited to five pieces making them extremely exclusive. Although the £350,000+ price tag could also be described as a fairly major barrier to entry for most collectors.

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Coming in September is the Baby-G BGD-565TW-5 collaboration with Warner Bros. Looney Tunes, which is based on the Tweety character that originally made its debut in 1942. Featuring a matte beige bezel and band and a white face with a collage of Tweety illustrations, the watch is also unique for the thin yellow resin loops […]

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Hawaii’s own streetwear brand In4mation has been sharing images of its past G-Shock collaborations on its Instagram account (@in4mation_), and its most recent post is a teaser video stating that a new watch is coming soon. Its first collaboration was released in 2007, and this will be the brand’s eighth. In4mation is known for using […]

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Longines isn’t the only Swatch Group brand to delve into their heritage – or to do it quite so handsomely. Now it’s Tissot’s turn to get in on the archival action, following up their downsized PRX 35mm and ultra-cool, 70s-flavoured Sideral (read our review here) with a slightly more classical affair in the Heritage 1938 and Heritage Small Second 1938.

1938 must have been a really good year for Tissot. Not only is it where they found inspiration for their downright lovely Telemeter 1938, but they’re plumbing their vintage catalogues from the year once again for a trio of pieces that are archetypally 30s in the best possible way. What I mean by that is a classical silhouette and pared-back dials with plenty of room to breathe. It’s a safe style that’s always good to see, especially from the more accessible end of the scale. So, let’s get into them.

Tissot Heritage 1938

Of the three models here, two are central seconds and the only real difference between them is colour, one offering a salmon dial with black numerals, the other an anthracite number with gold numerals. I’m kind of done with salmon these days, so I’d opt for the anthracite. Otherwise, they have the same vintage numerals and minute track and the same serif chronometer lettering at 6 o’clock.

The cases measure in at 39mm, which is definitely the top end for anything nodding towards vintage. Honestly, I’d love to try one of these on at 35mm or 36mm as an accessible, more casual dress watch.

Inside is the ETA 2824-2 calibre automatic movement. It’s not at the top end of the specs scale, with a 38-hour power reserve but it is COSC-certified, beating at 4hz, so the mechanical accuracy is definitely there. It’s a serious workhorse, even if it’s not the fantastic Powermatic 80. No matter how you cut it though, it’s a lovely, vintage-styled watch for £745.

Tissot Heritage Small Second 1938

While it has the same dark grey and gold colourway as the Heritage 1938, the small seconds version has a lot more going on. It not only offers a silver small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, an elegant contrast with the black backdrop, but it also has a white date window at 9 o’clock and a matching white minute track. I get why some collectors might prefer the more streamlined look of the Heritage 1938, but for me it’s all about the Small Second.

Size-wise it’s the same at 39mm across, with the same gorgeous onion crowns as the time-only version. Here though the size makes more sense so that the contrasting elements don’t feel crowded in. If anything, it feels perfectly balanced. It also helps that I much prefer the mesh bracelet rather than the standard straps on the time-only versions.

Inside the Heritage Small Second 1938 is the ETA 2895-2, which has a higher power reserve of 42-hours. It’s also a touch thinner thanks to the different movement architecture, but is still COSC-certified, which is always good. It also doesn’t add too much to the price tag as the Heritage Small Second 1938 will set you back £885.

There are a few brands these days working in this kind of overtly vintage arena (Baltic jumps to mind), but between Tissot’s innate reliability, accessibility and the flawless 1930s looks, there’s a lot to love here with the Heritage 1938 and Heritage Small Second 1938. And honestly, £885 for an incredibly handsome small seconds watch is a seriously tempting proposition.

More details at Tissot.

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Grand Seiko has two real inspirations behind everything they do: the beauty of nature and traditional Japanese crafts. We’ve had plenty of the former with pieces like the Majestic White Birch, but not nearly as much the artisanal angle. However, now Grand Seiko is tackling the craft every teenager and anime fan knows Japan for: katanas. These are the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 44GS USA Exclusives.

First up, yes, they are US exclusives. That sucks honestly. In the UK we get some of their most pared-back editions like the Light and Shadow and our stateside cousins get swords? Come on! That said, in this globalised world of buying online, getting one shipped over isn’t the end of the world. Now, that out of the way, onto the watches.

Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS SBGA489 and SBGA491

At first glance, both watches are typical Grand Seiko fare. That’s not a bad thing of course, it means razor-sharp finishing and the less-is-more approach that has made them a collectors’ darling over the years. Other than Yamazaki, they’re Japan’s greatest luxury export.

The difference between the two references here is simply the dial, which each represent a different type of steel used in Japanese swordmaking. In case you didn’t know (don’t worry I don’t expect you to), a katana is made from two different types of steel, both smelted from traditional Japanese steel Tamahagane. There’s the inner core, which uses a softer, low-carbon steel called Shingane, then there’s the harder cutting edge called Kawagane.

The point of this method is that the high carbon steel is brittle, so a full blade could shatter. The Shingane on the other hand is softer, so less prone to irreparable damage, but would lose its edge too quickly. The katana therefore has the best of both worlds. And it looks cool. Never forget that.

Those two different types of steel are represented in this pair of watches, with black equating to Shingane (soft) and the green representing Kawagane (hard). Both have the sandy texture of the original Tamahagane mineral for a lovely, grained look.

These being Spring Drive models, the only interruption on the dial is a gold power reserve indicator which for once suits the design nicely. It adds a metallic flourish like the decoration on a Katana’s Saya, or sheath. The movement also means you have a 72-hour power reserve, excellent accuracy and arguably one of the best movements in the world.

Both the SBGA489 (black) and the SBGA491 (green) will set you back $5,600, or roughly £4,410 if you can find a good currency exchange. Then there’s the limited edition.

Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS SBGA493

A fiery interpretation of the same blueprint, the limited edition SBGA493 offers not just an incredibly red dial but a completely different finish to the other watches in this US-centric sub-collection. Paired with yellow accents, it’s eye-catching in the extreme, even compared with other red-dialled Grand Seiko pieces. The pattern itself is designed to evoke radiating sparks as the katana gets forged and, while I think that’s a bit of a stretch, it’s nonetheless an absolutely gorgeous looking thing.

Otherwise, it has the same specs as its non-limited siblings. That means a 40mm stainless steel case, a matching, impeccably machined and polished bracelet and a Spring Drive movement with all that entails – like, for example, + / – 1 second per day accuracy.

While the black and green are production models (granted, limited by location) the SBGA493 is limited to 500 pieces, priced slightly higher at $6,000, or £4,730 in old money. For a brand like Grand Seiko that’s a solid number of watches; the bigger problem will be getting one of these before the Americans snap them all up.

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We all know that football players love to flash the wrist candy. Who else buys Hublot anyway? But what of the guys that are actually in charge, the decision makers in the dugouts, dictating play– shouldn’t they get in on the horological action too? Well, some of them do, in some cases putting their players to shame. From the cool to the outrageous, here are the Premier League managers leading the wristwatch way for their players.

Jurgen Klopp: IWC Aquatimer Ceratanium 50 Years Aquatimer Edition, CHF 50,000 (approx. £40,340)

If there’s one Premier League manager that everybody seems to love regardless of your team colours, it’s Jürgen Klopp. The laid back German is an undeniable managerial great that manages to stay humble to his roots on the pitch and on his wrist. He sports an IWC watch. Rather than the usual pilots’ pieces, Klopp opts for the underrated Aquatimer, specifically the Perpetual Calendar Digitate Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer”. It’s not the most catchy name, but the black Ceratanium – a fusion of ceramic and titanium – case is hard to miss.

Pep Guardiola: Richard Mille RM 67-02 UAE, £228,000+

Pep Guardiola is no stranger to Richard Mille as he’s worn several over the years including his well known RM010 Automatic AMC Blue in the colours of Man City. However, recently he’s been spotted with the Richard Mille RM 67-02 UAE at the Community Shield and his Premier League opening match. The ultra-thin dimensions make it supremely light on the wrist and the combination of off-white and green is as striking as the penalty spot. Sure, Richard Mille like to place their watches on the wrists of players to prove their lightness and nigh-indestructibility, but surely some animated arm waving from the side line counts too? As for value, the standard RM 67-02 is £228,000 and the incredibly rare UAE edition is likely far more.

In fact, Pep’s collection is so spectacular that we took a closer look here.

David Moyes: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moonphase, £42,810

Given his reputation Scottish manager David Moyes, currently at West Ham, might not be the first person in football you’d look to for some horological flair but his wrist game is surprisingly on point. Instead of the endless procession of Nautli we’ve seen so far, he’s opted for a Patek Philippe of an altogether different speed. The Annual Calendar Moonphase in white gold. It’s far more elegant with a classic circular case measuring 38.5mm in diameter.

Mikel Arteta: Rolex GMT-Master II, £11,500

While he might not yet be a household name like Pep or Jurgan, Mikel Arteta has been a steady presence during his tenure at Arsenal and he has become a staple figure of the industry. His wristwatch of choice is also an industry staple in the form of the Rolex GMT-Master II 16710LN. Rather than one of the colourful models with a catchy nickname like the Pepsi or Batman, Arteta has gone for subtlety and class with the full black edition.

Erik ten Hag: Breitling Colt Quartz, £2,000

Erik ten Hag has the unenviable position of stewarding Man United through their biggest rough patch in recent history during the Premier League. Since the departure of Sir Alex Fergusson, the team has failed to find its footing despite several big name players on the squad. Erik ten Hag will need to be brutally practical if he wants to navigate the season, but judging by his watch, he can be. It’s the Breitling Colt Quartz, a relatively accessible chronograph that he’s worn for years. The modern Breitling equivalent would be the Chronomat, sporty, steel and uncompromising.

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While my favourite type of Timex tends to be their affordable tool watches like the Expedition or retro models à la the Q Timex, their newest launch is cool for entirely different reasons. It’s the Giorgio Galli S2, a sleek 38mm watch with a minimalist aesthetic designed with carte blanche by Timex’s creative director, Giorgio Galli.

The 38mm sizing of the case feels perfectly judged, leaning into the increasing popularity of smaller watches at the moment while also feeling refined and elegant, complimenting the restrained dial. The design of the case itself was introduced back in 1996 with a layered construction consisting of an injection moulded stainless steel outer portion and a titanium middle case.

Would it be going too far to describe something from 1996 as vintage? It feels so recent in the grand scheme of things and yet 26 years isn’t an insubstantial amount of time – when will we describe watches from the year 2000 as vintage? What makes this discussion all the more relevant is the fact that it was Giorgio Galli who introduced this design meaning he’s been perfecting it over the course of a quarter century.

Narrowing in on the dial, it features a minimalist display of hours, minutes and seconds over a black dial and silver ring with engraved slits for hour markers. It’s restrained and classy, ideal for formal occasions and elegant soirées, or even moody, artistic photoshoots in black and white as the photos provided show.

Beneath the surface it’s powered by the Sellita SW200-1 with 41-hour power reserve. This is actually significant because the SW200-1 previously had a 38-hour power reserve (which we criticised fairly often) but they’ve quietly upgraded it to 41-hours, a very big improvement to quality of life. We first got an inkling of this update when the Oris Divers Sixty-Five received an expanded reserve but now it’s good to see it in another watch too.

In terms of price, the Giorgio Galli S2 is £750, which means it immediately swoops in and claims the title for highest price Timex in the current range. However, that doesn’t mean it isn’t solid value considering it has titanium components and an upgraded movement, as well as unique styling.

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Raymond Weil’s Freelancer collection is a surprisingly diverse range of watches that encompass chronographs, GMTs and dive watches. It’s the latter we’re focussing on today with the launch of the new Freelancer Diver 2775 collection, which is essentially a regular production model of the Geneva Limited Edition from last year. With their funky gradient dials and bi-colour cases, these are some of the most striking divers Raymond Weil have released.

Structurally, they’re pretty conventional with 42.5mm diameter cases in either full steel, steel and rose gold or steel and yellow gold. The gold in both instances being applied with PVD plating. Convention would say that if you actually want to use one in the water you should opt for the full steel model since if the gold gets scratched too much it will be more obvious, but technically all three have water resistance ratings of 300m.

The various material combinations are also tied to specific colourways. The full steel model has a black gradient dial with black ceramic diving bezel, as does the rose gold edition. The yellow gold reference then has a blue gradient dial with matching blue bezel. I really like the gradient on both colours, the way it concentrates the dark area towards 6 o’clock as if you’re looking into the inky depths from above, although personally I think it works better on the blue.

Alternatively, you could interpret the gradient as a crashing wave with the darker portion being the body of the wave and the lighter areas the frothing foam. Which is relevant because alongside the launch of the Freelancer Diver 2775 Raymond Weil have announced that their newest ambassador, Titouan Galea, three-time Wing Foil world champion. Wing Foil is an insane sport involving the use of a hydrofoil board and a handheld sail called a wing, essentially taking the sport of surfing and putting it on steroids. It looks like a lot of fun.

The sport is also referenced on the solid steel caseback of the watch, which features an engraving of a bird flying over the sea at sunset. You’ve got the wings, you’ve got the waves, all that’s missing is a tiny depiction of Titouan surfing. Protected behind the caseback is the calibre RW4200 (base Sellita SW200) with a 38-hour power reserve. It’s equipped with hours, minutes, seconds and a date function at 6 o’clock. The date aperture is water droplet shaped just in case you weren’t aware that this is a dive watch.

As for the bracelet and strap options, again it depends on which reference you want to go for. The yellow gold two tone model with blue dial is presented on a five link bracelet with matching yellow gold mid-links and it’s the same story for the black dial-rose gold combo, just with rose gold instead. The full steel model then has two options to choose from, a full steel five link bracelet or perforated rubber strap.

The four Raymond Weil Freelancer Diver 2775 options are priced as follows: steel on rubber £1,995, steel on bracelet £2,095, yellow gold £2,195 and rose gold £2,195. For me it’s a toss up between the practicality of the steel model on rubber strap for actual diving use or the blue and yellow gold for a solid Desk Diver option.

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Two stalwarts of the Scottish watch industry, anOrdain and Paulin Watches have officially announced a closer partnership by becoming sister companies. Alongside the new partnership, Paulin Watches has undergone a full rebrand and redesign with new watches, a new creative director and more. It signifies a big shift in the Scottish watchmaking scene.

First off, while many of you will be familiar with anOrdain for their work with enamel dials Paulin Watches may not have been on your radar to the same extent. They’ve been in the business for 10 years and in that time have focussed on design-led, accessible wristwatches. Under the ownership of anOrdain that’s not going to change with a goal of keeping every watch produced at price below £1,000 and exploring both mechanical and quartz movements.

As for the specific details of the acquisition, these are both relatively small brands so I don’t think it will surprise anyone to learn that there’s a family element involved. anOrdain’s founder, Lewis Heath, and one of Paulin’s co-founders, Charlotte Paulin, have become married and so it’s only natural for them to seek to consolidate their portfolios together. What this means in practical terms is that the two brands, while remaining totally independent, will share a studio located at anOrdain’s Glasgow workshop.

Regarding the Paulin Watches rebrand, it’s been in the works for over a year now and has been overseen by Imogen Ayres, formerly a senior member of anOrdain and now the new Creative Director for Paulin. The first watch being released in this new phase of the brand’s existence is the Modul, a 35mm stainless steel timepiece available in automatic and quartz variants with fun, colourful dials. The yellow version and the pink edition are very bright and joyful while the rusty brown feels like it was taken straight out of 1970s interior design.

It’s great to see the UK watch industry thriving with brands taking chances on new partnerships and closer cooperation rather than risk stagnation. For example, both anOrdain and Paulin are taking part in the EveryWatch auction organised by the Scottish Watches Podcast and in fact today, August 23rd, is your last chance to bid. And if you want to see a whole raft of British watchmakers, look out for news on the British Watchmakers’ Day event next March.

More details at Paulin and anOrdain.

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