Category: News

Audemars Piguet are bringing one of their most experimental concepts to their regular collection with the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Burgundy 16202XT.OO.1240XT.01 in titanium and bulk metallic glass (BMG). BMG is a rare material in general and even rarer in watchmaking, AP’s first and only use of the non-crystalline glass material came in 2021 with the 39mm Jumbo Extra-Thin piece unique. This is the first time ever that it’s been used in a standard range of watches.

The case is more or less identical to that original Only Watch piece, which means a 39mm diameter design in titanium with a BMG bezel and caseback as well as an integrated titanium bracelet featuring polished BMG studs. If you’re unfamiliar with BMG (and I wouldn’t blame you) think of it as a metallic alloy that is rapidly cooled in such a way that it has many of the properties of glass, namely hardness, reflectiveness and elasticity. These properties make it durable, shiny and possible to shape into the signature octagon of the RO.

Audemars Piguet actually co-developed their own version of the material using palladium to create an even more impressive brilliance. It makes for a striking contrast to the brushed titanium surfaces. Equally striking is the dial, which features a dramatic red fumé gradient similar in smokiness to 2021’s Jumbo Extra-Thin with green gradient dial.

Under the red surface of the dial and visible through the exhibition caseback is the Calibre 7121 with Côtes de Genève finishing, a calibre released in 2022. It’s a time-and-date model with a 55-hour power reserve and that measures 3.2mm in thickness, allowing for the extra-thin case which is itself only 8.1mm.

It’s tough to gauge how much of stir the new watch will cause. On the surface level it’s the latest generation of one of AP’s most popular watches in history, so it should have collectors excited. The Royal Oak Jumbo is an icon and the extra-thin is perhaps one of its most quintessential modern expressions. However, it also feels difficult to get majorly excited about something so technical as bulk metallic glass. It likely comes down to value – which is also tough to gauge, since it’s price on request.

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K-pop group Itzy became global ambassadors for G-Shock in early 2023 and has played large role in promoting the brand throughout Asia. In the latest print and video campaign for the Pink Metallic Collection, each member wears a different watch featuring a rose gold stainless steel bezel or a rose gold vapor deposited dial. Ryujin […]

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There have been a lot of Avante Garde chiming complication wristwatches lately. By which I mean non-traditional, hyper modern takes on what is a very traditional and classy piece of haute horology. The main watches I’m thinking of being the Bel Canto and the Streamliner Pandamonium. Don’t get me wrong, I love both of those watches, but it’s nice to see Breguet take us back to traditional elegance with the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes, now available in a new edition with black dial and rose gold case.

Since I’ve been rambling about minute repeaters and chiming complications I should probably explain what that actually is. In short, a minute repeater is a type of haute horology complication that uses tiny hammers and gongs to give an audio representation of the time, much like the chiming of a clock but in miniature form. It is one of the most demanding types of complication requiring a mastery of the disciplines of both watchmaking and sound. Every watch is hand crafted and so the resonant note of each individual gong is different and coaxing out the best possible sound is a delicate task involving tiny adjustments to the gongs, gong holders, hammers or even the watch’s case.

Every small feature has to be in total harmony, although ‘small’ isn’t necessarily the right word in every instance since the mechanism inside is so intricate, the Classique 7637 as a whole is quite big. It has a 42mm diameter case in rose gold, which as a size is much more dive watch than dress watch which in general tend to be smaller with more vintage proportions. However, that size is offset somewhat by the fact that it’s impressively thin at just 12.25mm.

What really gives the piece its minimalist elegance is the dial, which is completely black with rose gold hands and Arabic numerals. The hands and numerals, to no one’s surprise, use the signature Breguet design. Meaning the hands have circles near their tips and the numerals are flowing and slightly cursive. The dial itself warrants a closer look as well because it’s made from Grand Feu enamel, which is what gives it its impressive smoothness and rich black colour.

The movement powering it all is the Breguet 567.2, a manual wind calibre with 40-hour power reserve. It’s the same movement as used in the previous blue and white gold edition. Although the new black and rose gold Classique 7637 Minute Repeater is actually a slightly lower price at £226,900 compared to £227,800… I did say it was a slight difference. But at this level of craftsmanship between the mechanism of the minute repeater and the enamel dial, that kind of price is not unexpected.

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The G-Shock Natural Color Series includes one digital model and three analog-digital models in monochromatic earth colors inspired by minerals. With their soft matte appearance, these models offer a fashionable match with certain shades of clothing fabric. The light brown digital DW-5600NC-5 is based on the original G-Shock watch and features the updated DW-5600 module […]

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Casio is releasing two G-Shock GMD-S5600 models in basic black (GMD-S5600BA-1) and white (GMD-S5600BA-7) unisex colorways. Prior to these models, the only smaller black square G-Shock was the GMD-S5600-1 which has a metallic bronze face. The only smaller white square G-Shock was the GMD-S5600-7 with a metallic silver face and a negative LCD display, so […]

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To celebrate the 40th Anniversary of G-Shock, Canadian streetwear boutique Livestock is releasing a G-Shock DW-6900 collaboration and hosting parties in Toronto and Vancouver. The gray watch has a racing theme inspired by the “Bayshore Route” that encircles Tokyo, which in the 1990s became an infamous and illegal high-stakes circuit for modified street cars at […]

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The Seiko Alpinist is a perfect example of the quintessential qualities of a tool watch: versatile, durable, well proportioned and stylish. When I say versatile, I mean that both in terms of it can go anywhere and do anything, but also that there are a variety of models and styles available such as the “Rock Face” limited edition and the 1957 Re-Interpretation. However, one slight draw back to the Alpinist is that it’s only available in time and date versions, lacking any additional functions or utility. That is, until now and the launch of the Seiko Alpinist GMT SPB377J1 and SPB379J1.

As you are likely able to infer, the Seiko Prospex Alpinist GMT introduces a GMT complication to the model allowing you to track two time zones at the same time. It’s the archetypal travel function, enabling you to display home time on the bezel-mounted 24-hour scale and local time with the regular time display. It makes a lot of sense for the Alpinist since it’s designed to take on mountains and adventures, both of which will often take you to foreign shores.

Alternatively, if you’re stuck in the office a GMT helps keep track of that important phone call you have scheduled with a client on the other side of the world, although that’s slightly less glamourous.

In terms of specs and structure, the Prospex Alpinist GMT remains as robust as ever. It measures 39.5mm in diameter in stainless steel with 200m water resistance and 4,800 A/m magnetic field resistance. Large enough to be easily legible, small enough that you won’t constantly knock it on your equipment and capable of withstanding the vast majority of environments you can expect to encounter. Naturally there is a difference to previous models in that the bezel now bears a 24-hour scale.

Looking at the dial, this is where the SPB377J1 and SPB379J1 diverge, the former having a sunray blue dial while the latter is black. Despite the differences in colour, both feature white markings, red GMT-hands and matching compass markings around the periphery. The compass markings relate to the fact that a wristwatch can be used to calculate bearings when used in conjunction with the sun, which you can learn how to do here.

Under the surface is the 6R54 automatic GMT movement, which has a 72-hour power reserve. That’s actually a slightly higher power reserve than the non-GMT edition Alpinists, impressive considering that typically adding a complication means there’s more mechanisms drawing on the power and so the reserve is usually lower. Although the higher specs and additional functions are reflected in the Prospex Alpinist GMT SPB377J1 and SPB379J1’s prices. Both are £990, about £300 higher than time and date editions. It’s a solid addition to the range that makes technical and thematic sense.

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What is there to say about a new Grand Seiko? Unless it’s something from the Evolution 9 series or something mechanically mind-boggling like last year’s syncopated Kodo, you already know what you’re getting. You know it’ll be elegant and relatively pared-back, with some gorgeous dial inspired by nature. It’s a template they’ve wheeled out time and again and one that, rather than getting tired, consistently shows a level of obsession with the subject that only comes from working in an isolated studio far from the world. When all you have nearby is forest, you can probably get a lot out of it.

Case in point, the new Grand Seiko ‘Yuka Momiji’ SBGJ273. As with a lot of seasonal Japanese words, the translation here is very specific. Momiji is the word given to maple leaves that have turned red during autumn, the exact, gorgeously bright colour you’re probably picturing right now. It’s that colour which is the focal point of the dial here – but that’s not all. The whole name means ‘floor maple’ and has an entirely different connotation, meaning the autumnal leaves that are reflected on the lacquered wooden floors of Japanese homes and temples. If you want to see an example then check out the Rurikō-in temple in Kyoto. It’s breathtaking and, like I said, it’s very, very specific.

It’s that specificity which makes perfect sense on the dial. Aside from the gorgeous red lacquer, an overt nod to the colours of a Japanese autumn, the grooves in the dial imitate the traditional floorboards turned red by the leaves. To my mind, it also has something of tree trunks lined up in a forest, but however you look at it, it’s bloody gorgeous. I’m not going to say it’s my favourite Grand Seiko dial to date – that’s not something I’m ever going to put down in writing. But it’s close.

In some ways it’s actually a lot more subtle than other finishes. Without direct light, it looks like a uniform burgundy colour, nothing too exciting there. I love burgundy (both wine and colour) as much as the next inebriated watch lover, but when it hits the light, the Yuka Momiji is something else entirely. Even our photos don’t really do it justice.

That said, at its base line, it is just a red version of February’s Yuki Gesho, which went with a fittingly wintery theme, with snow reflected in the floor boards. I just wanted to point out that the Yuka Momiji wasn’t the first; don’t let that detract from how lovely it is.

So yes, yes, pretty dial, but is the Grand Seiko Yuka Momiji anything other than face value? Well of course dear reader, this is Grand Seiko. The indexes are the kind of flawless Zaratsu polishing you normally only expect from master craftsmen in anime, albeit typical for the watchmaker. Even the golden GMT hand, a nice second nod to autumnal colours, is flawlessly crisp.

My only issue is on the wrist, and it’s a small one. At 39.5mm of stainless steel it’s a great size, but it’s actually a lot thicker than I was expecting at 14.1mm. Part of that’s the retro box crystal, but the case itself just feels chunkier than it needs to be. For something that’s ostensibly a dress watch, it comes a little too far off the wrist for my liking. So, I guess I’ll just need to stick to wearing it during the day.

Inside you have the most recent version of a Grand Seiko stalwart, the calibre 9S86. A hi-beat movement that oscillates 36,000 times an hour, it’s one of the most accurate movements out there – without treading into independently made, haute horology territory. Even then, it’s competitive. Grand Seiko’s hybrid Spring Drive might be more iconic, but for my money, the 9S86 is hard to (hi) beat, especially with a 55-hour power reserve.

The Grand Seiko Yuka Moniji is only available on a pretty classic bracelet. It’s well-made for sure, an ode to Grand Seiko’s whole ‘craftsmanship is in the details’ vibe, but I’d love to see this on a strap in a red to match the dial. It might be a bit much for some, but given it works on my favourite Reverso, I imagine it would kill here.

Now, price. The Yuki Gesho was priced at £6,400 for what is, essentially, the same watch. The Yuka Momiji is £6,600 and I think we can all agree that the extra £200 is money well spent. The whole watch is richer and more evocative than its white predecessor, the perfect partner for autumn. Or for a trip to Kyoto to see its inspiration.

For both watches though, that’s a solid price. Grand Seiko have been suffering a little from price creep as they tackle increasingly ornate finishes and more silhouettes and complications; six-and-a-half grand feels like the right level of accessibility for them, GMT and all. If I weren’t busy paying for a wedding, it would be a tempting prospect. Doubly so if I stop to think how many of these I could have bought for the same price.

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If you’re up to date with the latest news from Swatch then you may have noticed that we didn’t cover the announcement of the most recent edition of the MoonSwatch, the Mission to Moonshine Gold Neptune. The reason for that is, frankly, we’re tired of Swatch releasing the same watch again and again with the only novelty being a tweak to the seconds hand. Now though, the flutters of something big on the horizon are starting to filter through to social media grapevine. A brand new Swatch collaboration is on the way, possibly with Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Here’s what we know so far.

The biggest piece of evidence that has come to light so far is an advert seen in the German newspaper Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung. It shows the Swatch logo at the bottom of a swimming pool in the same format as the MoonSwatch logo except for a few notable distinctions. For one, the Omega logo is absent and in its place is a blank slot ready for a new brand.

Secondly, the outline is different. Instead of the zigzags that are based on the silhouette the Speedmaster’s crown it has a blocky design. Assuming that it’s also inspired by the crown of the watch it’s a collaboration with, that gives us a major clue as to what the new watch is. A quick investigation turns up a likely suspect: the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is one of the most recognisable dive watches ever produced with its broad bezel, distinctive display and robust case. It was famously a favourite of pioneering divers like Jacques Cousteau. All but confirming the fact that the Swatch Fifty Fathoms (Swatchy Fathoms? Fifty Swatches?) is on the way is the news that Swatch CEO Nick Hayek Jr. reportedly commissioned Swatch editions of the Omega Seamaster and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms at the same time as the MoonSwatch.

What are your hopes for the upcoming collab? Keep your eyes peeled on 9th September.

More details at Swatch.

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