Category: News

Draco Stellar 3-Hand, £310

The Draco Stellar 3-Hand is a lovely 36mm dress watch with a salmon dial, Breguet numerals and sleek steel case. The time-only display makes it incredibly elegant with the leaf shaped hands sweeping around the peripheral minute track and grained hour scale. The case itself is also refined and elegant with polished finishing, a smooth, sloping bezel, a relatively slim crown and lugs that curve naturally towards the leather strap. It’s powered by an automatic movement.

More details at Draco.

Via Mon Coronagraph VM22 Comet, $399.63

The story behind Via Mon is a classic one in the watch industry, a trio of partners who have come together to breathe life into the watch they envisioned wearing themselves. Thus was the Coronagraph VM22 created, a 38.4mm chronograph with a wide, rectangular design and a modern dial inspired by space. The grained texture of the dial designed to look like the surface of an asteroid, hence the collections names of Comet, Gravel and Void for the silver, grey and black variants.

Available at Via Mon.

Batavi Atelier, €479 (early bird price), €578 (standard price)

Sports watches and guilloche style dials might seem like unlikely bedfellows yet the Batavi Atelier proves that they work together surprisingly well. The 39mm stainless steel case has a field watch aesthetic that provides a contrast to the patterning of the vibrant fish scale dial. There are multiple colourways available including dark black/purple, blue and a grey/beige tone. Powering the piece is the Miyota calibre 9039 with 44-hour power reserve which combined with the case and dial means that this is a lot of watch for the money.

Available at Batavi.

BWG Bavarian Watch ISARIA, First 50 customers before December €555, standard price €1,555

BWG Bavarian Watch are a German watch brand that designs robust watches inspired by the stylish landscapes and culture of Bavaria. BWG watches fit perfectly into today’s everyday life from meetings to sports, something which is particularly true of the ISARIA. The BWG ISARIA is a watch waterproof to 200m with a rotating bezel and Super Luminova on the hands and dial, equipped with a Swiss L24 Manufacture automatic movement. ISARIA is available in slate black, Isar green and sky blue.

Available at BWG.

Riley Watch Co. Howard Hughes Chronograph HH01, £149

The Howard Hughes Chronograph HH01 is inspired by an iconic plane in the history of aviation, the Hughes H-1 Racer, which broke the world speed record in 1935. The watch commemorates this historic occasion with its retro style bi-compax chronograph display and curved square case – a shape commonly referred to as squircle. There are several variations available including this sage green and white variant which is very elegant and calming to look at. It’s powered by the Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz movement.

Available at Riley Watch.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

There is a lot to talk about with the new Yema Superman Bronze CMM.10 Limited Edition. For one, it houses a brand new manufacture movement, for another it’s a new 3-hand Superman (one of their coolest models) and lastly, it’s their last ever Kickstarter project. So let’s not waste any more time and get to it.

First, let’s start with the movement because really that’s the big news here. It’s called the CMM.10, which stands for Calibre Manufacture Morteau 10. Morteau being the French town where Yema has its workshop and where the movement is produced. It’s an automatic calibre with 70-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph frequency and -3/+5 seconds per day accuracy, which are some seriously respectable specs.

Plus, it’s equipped with an Incabloc double cone shock resistance system so that it can withstand bumps and bashes and it has the Nivaflex spring for improved resistance to magnetic fields. Tough stuff. On top of this, you can view the new movement through the watch’s sapphire exhibition caseback, allowing you to see its dark grey galvanised finishing. The creation of the CMM.10 took three years of development, the vast majority of which was crowdfunded, which just makes it all the more impressive.

As for the first watch it’s being housed in, it’s a new edition of the Superman Bronze. Which is fitting because the original Superman Bronze was one of the first watches that Yema produced using Kickstarter (subsequently released in bi-colour and GMT versions) and this is going to be the last. Why is that? Well, Yema have now achieved their goal of structuring themselves as a manufacture brand, bringing the means of production and development in-house. In short, they’ve grown to a point where crowdfunding is no longer part of their business plans.

The watch itself is available at two sizes, 39mm and 41mm, with 300m water resistance, and is made from bronze. A popular material for dive watches due to its historical connections to nautical equipment and the fact that it develops a unique patina over time like a sunken shipwreck. Carrying on the nautical theme, the Superman Bronze CMM is fitted with the new double-domed sapphire crystal that adds a neo-vintage vibe, as does the unidirectional rotating dive timer bezel.

Looking at the dial, there are two options here as well. The first is a black lacquer edition and the second features a blue fumé gradient. The style of the display has also been refined since the previous Superman Bronze, as it now has a lollipop seconds hand and the inscription “Manufacture Française” has been added at the very bottom of the dial. I like the way that the beige coloured lume on the hour markers and hands blends in with the bronze, although in the darkness it shines with a blue light.

Each edition of the watch is limited to 1,948 pieces in tribute to the year that Yema was founded. It’s really interesting to see how Yema’s production and business strategies have developed over the decades with the Superman Bronze CMM.10 really signalling that they’re about to step into a new era. At the same time, it’s a gorgeous dive watch with a fairly understated neo-vintage design and a brand new movement.

During its Kickstarter campaign, which begins on November 10th, it will be priced at €999 following which the retail price will be €1,790 (approx. £870/£1,560). For a movement with these specs, that value is pretty insane.

More details at Yema.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Nomos are celebrating the 175th anniversary of watchmaking in Glashütte, the historic centre of watchmaking in Germany. To mark the occasion, they’ve released the new Nomos Glashütte Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik limited edition, dressing their signature minimalist timepiece in precious metal – as opposed to the precious metal inspired Platinum Grey. It’s a refined limited edition of 175 pieces.

Let’s kick things off with that updated case. It measures 35mm in diameter in 18k rose gold with flat, vertical sides measuring 6.9mm in height and thin lugs. This is the first time that the Tangente has ever been produced in rose gold and the outcome is very lovely, giving the minimalist design a classy dress watch aesthetic. Rose gold is one of the archetypal dress watch materials because it has rich colour without being so brassy or brash as yellow gold. Subtler and more reserved.

The dial of the Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik pays tribute to the original Tangente, which had a white dial and grey detailing. Here, though, those colours have been given a luxe makeover with the white dial being produced in galvanised white silver-plating and the grey replaced entirely with the titular rose gold for the hands, small seconds subdial and peripheral minute track. The style maintains the minimalist, Bauhaus influences that have always dominated Nomos’ watchmaking with a high focus on function and shape, just with a bit of a Midas touch.

Under the new golden surface is the Neomatik in-house Calibre DUW3001, an automatic movement with 43-hour power reserve. Although interestingly the original 1992 Tangente featured a manual movement and I almost think that it would be nice for this prestige version of the watch to return to hand-winding to really highlight its refined character. However, the quality-of-life enhancement that automatic winding represents means the DUW3001 is a welcome inclusion.

As I mentioned at the start, the Nomos Glashütte Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is limited to 175 pieces worldwide, making it extremely exclusive. It’s also priced at £8,600, which is dramatically higher than the £1,000-£3,000 that the majority of the Tangente range costs. But then, I think this watch justifies its price with the precious metal case and extremely elegant character. It’s everything you’d want from a luxe dress watch interpretation of a Nomos.

More details at Nomos.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Apiar is a new British brand in the watchmaking industry dedicated to bringing cutting-edge engineering techniques to horology. Specifically, they’re interested in additive manufacturing (3D Printing in layman’s terms) using high end materials to create watch designs that would be impossible without this technology. They have just launched the online configurator for their first watch, the Invenire v1.0, with the official launch set for February 2024. If you use their configurator and register your interest, you can also enter their giveaway for a pair of custom Apiar cufflinks.

How does additive manufacturing work? Well, like a 3D printer you might use in your home, you create a digital file of the product and then the machine recreates it layer by layer until you have the completed item. The main difference is that while your printer at home might use resin or plastic at a thickness of 0.8-1.2mm, Apiar are using grade 23 titanium which is added in thousands of 0.06mm layers.

This process means that Apiar are able to create intricate internal structures that would not be possible with traditional manufacturing techniques. In fact, when using their online configurator you can choose from three different internal structures. What that means in watch terms we’re all familiar with is that you can choose the pattern that the 39mm case is skeletonised with. There’s hexagon – not dissimilar to the new Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A by Samual Ross – gyroid and X lattice, each offering superb strength and visual flair. On top of the case you then have a choice of bezel with either 6 or 12 tabs.

While this cutting edge case is where the additive manufacturing really comes into its own. There’s still plenty to customise with the Invenire v1.0’s dial. You can choose Arabic or Roman numerals. You can choose the pattern on the central portion around the hand stack: hexagon, striations, Clous de Paris or blank. Naturally you can also pick the colour with the choices being oxford blue, racing green, engineering orange, matte black or onyx grey.

It’s amazing how much these alterations affect the character of the watch. The green dial with Clous de Paris and Roman numerals has a sporty elegance to it while the engineering orange with full hexagon case and hexagon dial with Arabic numerals feels industrial and modern.

The movement housed inside is also pretty spectacular for a debut collection. Eschewing the usual Miyotas, Seikos, Sellitas or ETA calibres you might expect to see, Apiar have jumped straight to the La Joux Perret G100 version soignée vis bleues, an automatic movement with 68-hour power reserve. You can admire it through the sapphire exhibition caseback. It’s also worth pointing out that despite the openwork case design, the Invenire V1.0 has 100m water resistance so the movement is protected from the elements.

While, like most watches these days, there is some element of international supply chain involved such as the Swiss movement and German sapphire crystals etc. Apiar have done as much as possible to reduce their carbon footprint. For example, the case is 3D printed by an engineering firm in Wales before final touch ups are done in England. The dials, straps, leather travel cases and sustainable packaging are all produced within the UK as well before the watches are assembled in London.

More details at Apiar.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Hublot love a collaboration but apparently their already talent-flooded roster just hasn’t been enough, as in 2020 they added one more creative string to their bow: that of British designer, artist and overall multipotentialite, Samuel Ross. The designer behind ceramic-firing hot streetwear-inspired label A Cold Wall*, Ross’s body of work is an ever-expanding portfolio of clothes, bikes, sculptures, drawings, you name it. After working together for a couple of years now, we have the launch of their latest collaborative timepiece, the new Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A by Samuel Ross, a fresh, monochromatic take on their first watch together from last year.

Conceptually, the new watch is very similar to the previous version. It has the same 44mm case with hexagonal, honeycomb mesh ventilation across the lugs (the liminal space not required to protect the movement) and the dial (which is protected by its sapphire crystal), for that lightweight, aerospace, industrial futurism that Ross loves.

That feel is amped up by replacing the previous orange elements with micro-blasted, polished titanium which, while less arresting than the original, give the watch a cooler, monochromatic design.  The tourbillon cage too has been decoloured, though it’s still a tourbillon and therefore still imposing. Paired with the integrated rubber strap and visible screws, the new Big Bang is the horological equivalent of Gerald Genta penning a sci-fi opera.

Not that it’s all monochrome of course. The integrated rubber strap – again with that series of honeycomb perforations – comes in white, black and vivid lime green. The raw titanium of the metalwork means that it works on any of the three but, let’s be honest, if you’re wearing this edition you like the impact and that likely means you want it on the green.

The aesthetics are backed by one of Hublot’s more technical movements that’s worth talking about for more than the signature tourbillon complication. The HUB6035 calibre is an in-house number – an actual manufacture movement – made up from 282 components. Beating at 3Hz and with a 72-hour power reserve, it’s as solid as a modern tourbillon should be, and with all those components on full view, it hammers home the intensely mechanical nature of the Big Bang Tourbillon.

Unlike the original Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross, the new Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A by Samuel Ross doesn’t break new ground. It does however refine the concept, like the second draft of a sketch. It makes more sense both visually and on the wrist, (where its 44mm case is as dramatic as previously yet wearably lightweight), and offers more options in the three straps, but is cut from the same cloth, the same blueprint.

So, can we expect more of the same in the future? Probably. If we look to the Orlinski and Sang Bleu editions Hublot have produced, once they have that first watch they tend to riff pretty close to the original. Different colours and materials sure, but otherwise just offering variations on the theme. It’s almost a given that, if this particular version isn’t for you, expect a Big Bang Tourbillon in a different colour in the relatively near future.

Given that they’re all very strict limited editions – this latest, for example, is limited to just 50 pieces – that’s not such a bad thing. But for someone as intensely creative, as intensely a polymath as Ross, it would be a bit disappointing if Hublot didn’t go off the now-beaten path for their next collab. Although that lime green across the case would definitely make a visual splash.

At the very least, the Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A by Samuel Ross illustrates how to do a proper collaborative watch. It’s not just a recoloured Hublot, it’s a proper watch partnership. It’s not going to be to everyone’s taste – it could be argued that no Hublot is – but that’s not the point. It’s a design statement, an experiment, a drawing board for Ross to test what he can do within the boundaries of horology. And despite everything he’s done with the Big Bang Tourbillon, there’s still plenty of boundary to be pushed.

More details at Hublot.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

This might sound like a big claim but the ochs und junior selene nebra is a tribute to the first known horologists in all of history. But then, what would you expect from a watchmaker so interested in the history of timekeeping as Ludwig Oechslin, the mind behind ochs und junior. Specifically, the watch is inspired by an artefact called the Nebra Sky Disc, a bronze disc that dates all the way back to c. 1800-1600 BCE – the Early Bronze Age – and which has golden depictions of stars (including a cluster of seven assumed to be the Pleiades), a lunar crescent and what is either a full moon or the sun.

The Sky Disc is essentially the earliest known example of humanity recording astronomical phenomena. More than that, arcs along the periphery of the disc are assumed to represent the solstices, making it a form of celestial calendar – a really early, nascent version of horology. How that translates into the ochs und junior selene nebra is that they’ve taken its proto-moonphase complication and turned it into a fully-fledged moonphase – by reinterpreting their moonphase watch in the style of the Sky Disc.

Aesthetically, the dial is heavily influenced by the materials and colours of the Sky Disc with a blue-green colouration based on the bronze patina. Then the golden decorations of the artefact are represented by the gold leaf coated hour markers, 18k gold hour hand, 18k gold minute hand and 24k gold rotating date indicator. There’s then a central moonphase complication with a platinum disc representing the moon and a black disc representing the absence of the moon. Quite simply when the silver disc is full it’s the full moon and when the black disc is full it’s the new moon.

In terms of structure, the ochs und junior selene nebra is available in two sizes. There’s a 42mm diameter version and a 39mm diameter version, both produced in lightweight and robust titanium. Housed inside the case is the ETA 2824-2 equipped with Ludwig Oechslin’s 5-part epicycle moonphase, which will remain accurate for 3,478.27 years before it is off by one day. The term ‘perpetual moonphase’ isn’t really used in watchmaking but that’s what this is.

In terms of pricing and availability, the watch has a limited order period from now until January 6th 2024 at a price of CHF 8,100 including VAT or CHF 7,520 without (approx. £7,350/£6,800). I should also address the fact that this is not the first time that ochs und junior have produced the selene nebra, in fact it was first released more than a decade ago. However, that original watch was a piece unique produced specifically for a collector interested in the Nebra Sky Disc and so this is the first time it’s been available in series. I really love this watch, it looks incredible, the accuracy of the moonphase is astounding and the history behind it is fascinating.

More details at ochs and junior.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

It’s been a hot minute since we’ve talked about the Seiko Cocktail Time collection. In fact, I think the last time I mentioned it was probably in our guide to every Seiko model. Now though Seiko have released two new versions with golden colourways that are exclusive to the US and Europe. They’re the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time ‘Beer Julep’ and ‘Half and Half’.

The concept for the Cocktail Time comes from the Japanese tradition of post-work drinks, when at 5 o’clock colleagues would begin to relax, talk, socialise and debrief from the day’s work, an important time to build relationships and plan. Although, I wouldn’t say that’s a tradition exclusive to Japan as anyone who worked on a British newspaper a few decades ago would tell you.

How that translates into horology is that the dial of each Presage Cocktail Time is inspired by a particular drink that you might have after work. For example, with today’s release we have the ‘Beer Julep’, a drink consisting of beer with whisky, gin, sugar syrup, lemon and basil leaves. It’s a golden yellow drink which is why the corresponding watch ref. SRPK46 has a golden brown dial with a vertical gradient towards white that represents the head of the beer. It also has a scratchy texture finish that makes it look like you’re viewing the liquid through a glass.

The second timepiece being launched is the Presage Cocktail Time ‘Half and Half’ ref. SRPK48. This one is inspired by a mixture of ale and stout, hence the combination of light golden browns in the centre and the darker tone around the edges. Although, you can completely ignore the whole cocktail theme and take both of these watches at face value. In which case they’re just cool golden dress watches with gradient dials. And to be honest, that’s all they need to be to be exciting.

Specs-wise, both watches are the same. They have 40.5mm cases made golden-coloured stainless steel – Seiko haven’t specified what coating they’ve used to make it gold but considering the price it’s almost certainly not actual gold plating, it’s more likely some form of gold coloured PVD. They’re powered by the Seiko 4R35 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve. They also share a price of £470. It’s a solid release and it’s nice to see something a bit different to the endless wave of Prospex heritage re-issues that Seiko love to release.

More details at Seiko Boutique.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

I don’t think it’s possible to say the words “British Watchmaking” without immediately following up with “is known for its bright and colourful style and personality”. At this point I must sound like a broken record but it can’t be helped when British brands like the Marloe Watch Company keep releasing cool watches with vibrant colours. In particular I’m talking about the brand new Marloe Solent Timer, the latest version of their popular Solent wristwatch.

The Solent Timer is inspired by Alec Rose, a sailor who single-handedly raced across the Atlantic in 1964 prior to circumnavigating the globe. Hence the watch’s nautical leanings with 42mm diameter steel case, 100m water resistance and colourways inspired by the world’s oceans. Where the Solent Timer differs from the original Solent in that it has a dual crown construction which enables you to rotate the internal chapter ring. It also has an improved screw-down crown and updated dial.

When we’re talking about colourful expression, the eye is immediately drawn to the Marloe Solent Timer’s chapter ring, which is where all the brightest colours are presented. Another way to describe a chapter ring like this is an internal bezel, functioning the same as a typical bezel except that you can’t accidentally knock it out of position since you need to use the crown to set and lock their position. That’s why you most often see them used on watches designed for use in or around water, as you really, really, really don’t want a dive time scale to be adjusted unintentionally.

On the Cardinal model – named after the official name for a type of British buoy found on the coast – the chapter ring is bright yellow. That’s been paired with a black dial for a vivid contrast. Black and yellow also happen to be the colours of those Cardinal buoys, enhancing the nautical theme of the piece.

The second colourway is the Rescue model, which embraces the signature colour of aquatic safety and emergency equipment: orange. I’ve made no secret of the fact that orange is my favourite colour so this is easily my favourite of the designs. The combination of the orange chapter ring, dial accents and strap with the white dial is incredibly striking. If you look closely at the dial you’ll see that it’s not actually a uniform colour, as it’s instead made up of alternating stripes of bright white and cream, giving it a cool pattern that looks almost textural.

Third is the Oceanic model, which focusses heavily on the blue of the seas. The blue dial has the same diagonal stripe pattern as the Rescue as well as a blue chapter ring, blue strap and blue rings around the hour markers, all in subtly different shades that makes it look like light is reflecting through the waves. In my opinion, it’s also the model that highlights the inner steel ring between the dial and rotating chapter ring the most.

While the three models above are the standard collection, there is a fourth special edition, simply called the Black Edition. As its name suggest it has a completely black design punctuated by the lumed hour markers and high contrast white seconds hand. The golden yellow lettering on the dial gives it a cool, prestige look. The Solent Timer Black Edition falls into Marloe’s tradition of producing a Black Edition for each of their models, creating a sub-range of special edition watches that spans every collection.

Beneath the surface of the Solent Timer, Marloe have opted to keep the Miyota 9039 from the original Solent watch, since it proved popular among collectors. It’s automatic with a 40-hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 vph, plus an accuracy of -10/+30 seconds per day. It’s what we describe as a work horse movement, nothing too fancy but reliable and easy to maintain. Which is what you want from a relatively sporty watch like this.

I really like the Solent Timer, especially at a price of just £399. It’s accessible, fun and colourful while building on what made the original version of the watch so popular with the nautical theming. Plus, the addition of the rotating chapter ring and second crown make it completely distinct in Marloe’s range so it stands out really well.

Overall, I really love the look of this watch, however I expect the Omega faithful, like myself, would have liked it in 44mm or under. That, and for it to not cost £21,000. Innovation does however come at a price.

More details at Marloe Watch Company.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Alongside the new Avenger Automatic 42mm, Breitling have introduced a series of new Avengers at a larger size of 44mm. These are the Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 44, Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 Night Mission and Avenger Automatic GMT 44. Embracing a new stylish design while continuing to be high performance like the jet planes they’re inspired by.

Avenger B01 Chronograph 44

First up, let’s look at the Avenger B01 Chronograph 44. It’s a 44mm chrono edition in steel available in black, blue, green or sand colours. If you look at them side by side with an older Avenger Chronograph, the most notable change to the case is the chronograph pushers. Previously they used inverted pushers, a style not uncommon to aviation watches like the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph, but now those have been replaced with the square integrated pushers that Breitling use on other models like the Premier Heritage.

This change means the pushers sit tighter in to the case and aren’t so prominent in the silhouette. This sort of scaling back and refinement seems to be the name of the game with the whole collection because it’s a feature of the dials as well. The logo is subtler and the hour and minute scales have been simplified a touch and given more space. The overall impact is that the Avenger looks better than it ever has, at least in my opinion, without betraying the core identity of the model.

They’re equipped with the Breitling Calibre 01 which has a great 70-hour power reserve and a vertical clutch column wheel chronograph function. It’s a really solid movement, Although that does lead them to being on the more expensive side at £6,350 on strap or £6,600 on bracelet.

Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 Night Mission

Cutting to the chase, the overall updates to the Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 Night Mission are identical to the standard Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 above with two big exceptions. Those exceptions being the case material and dial colourways. Interestingly, those changes makes one of the two Night Mission watches the ultimate stealth flyer and the other the brightest watch in the entire collection.

Focussing on the cases, they’re produced in black ceramic, an extremely hardwearing material that’s lightweight and scratch resistant. While ceramic can be produced in any colour, the most common choice is black because the matte, smooth finish makes it incredibly sleek and stealthy. That darker aesthetic is respected by the crown and pushers which have been produced in titanium rather than steel since titanium has a dark grey colouration and is also lightweight, to match the case.

As for the dials, the Ref. SB0147101B1X1 keeps things dark by having a black carbon fibre base with matching black chronograph subdials. I forgot to mention it above but the chronograph display consists of a tricompax layout featuring a 30-minute timer, 12-hour timer and small seconds subdial – the usual suspects. In stark contrast to the carbon of its sibling, the Ref. SB0147101I1X2 has a bright yellow dial, designed to be hyper legible at night rather than staying hidden in the shadows. The yellow edition is £7,450 and the carbon dial version is £7,600.

Avenger Automatic GMT 44

Rounding the collection out is the Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 44, which takes the same aesthetic refinements seen across the new range but adds a GMT hand and 24-hour scale bezel to the mix. GMT complications are a pilot’s best friend as it allows them to keep track of multiple time zones at the same time, which is great for jet-setting globetrotters.

This version is only available in blue or black, making it the most limited of the options. However, just like every single watch here, it’s presented on a choice of three-link steel bracelet or the military-style fabric/leather strap.  So, there’s still a reasonable amount of choice.

Under the surface here is the Breitling Calibre 32, an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. It features hours, minutes, seconds, GMT and date complications. In terms of price, this model sits at the half-way point between the Automatic 42 and the B01 Chronograph 44 at a cost of £4,150 on strap and £4,400 on bracelet.

More details at Breitling.

​Oracle Time 

Read More