
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle is often a vehicle for some of the brand’s most exquisite haute horology. One look at the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is enough to capture the imagination. However, their latest launch focusses less on high concept mechanics and more on the bare essentials of the collection, consisting of a pair of time only models in pink gold with green dials.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding Ref. 82172/000R-H008
The two watches are fairly obviously designed as a his & her style pair. The first of the two is a 38mm model with a sweeping round bezel, flat sides and fairly straight lugs that gently curve downwards towards the wrist. It’s the signature Traditionnelle design, elegant and refined in its understatedness. Although I’m not sure ‘understated’ really applies to pink gold since it has such a rich colour.
Looking at the dial of the 38mm edition, we see that it has a gorgeous green tone with sunray brushed finishing that radiates outwards from the central hour and minute hands. Just below 12 o’clock is the Vacheron Constantin Maltese Cross logo and brand name, which is balanced out on the dial by a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Completing the dial are the baton hour markers and railway track minute scale, both of which are fittingly traditional for the Traditionnelle.
Powering this Traditionnelle Manual-Winding Ref. 82172/000R-H008 is the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 4400 AS. As the name of the model suggests, it’s a manual movement that requires regular winding, although with a 65-hour power reserve you have a reasonable amount of leeway.
I really like the combination of colours here, the gold and green remind me of autumn and the first turning of the leaves. So, if you’re looking for the ideal dress watch for the autumn season, this is a perfect choice. Priced at £22,800.
Price & Specs
Ref: 82172/000R-H008|
Case/dial: 38mm diameter x 7.7mm thickness, 18k pink gold case, deep green sunburst dial|
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)|
Movement: Vacheron Constantin calibre 440 AS, manual winding, 21 jewels, 127 parts|
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
Power reserve: 65h|
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds|
Strap: Deep green alligator leather with 18k pink gold pin buckle|
Price/availability: £22,800
More details at Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding Ref. 1405T/000R-H009
The second of the two watches is what we’d typically describe as the ladies’ model, although if a man loves the watch there’s nothing stopping them from wearing it. It is much smaller than its partner watch, measuring just 33mm in diameter in pink gold. What’s more, this model is fitted with a ring of 54 round-cut diamonds set in the bezel, adding some extra pizzazz and shine to the piece.
As for the dial, there are some differences there as well. Most notably the small seconds subdial has been omitted and it’s just an hours and minutes display. Beyond that, the other change is the hour markers. The 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock markers are now angular arrow shapes that, if you were to put them end to end in the centre, would create the Maltese Cross.
Inside this watch is the Calibre 1440, another manual movement but this time with a 42-hour power reserve. That means you’re more or less going to want to wind it every day to be on the safe side. Some people would find that annoying, but others enjoy the daily ritual of winding, so really it depends on your preferences.
Due to the added diamonds, the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding Ref. 1405T/000R-H009 is slightly higher priced than its counterpart at £28,500. I think it would be kind of fun to have matching watches with your partner, especially if you’re going to pair your outfits at a gala or event anyway.
Price & Specs
Ref: 1405T/000R-H009|
Case/dial: 33mm diameter x 7.7mm thickness, 18k pink gold case, bezel set with 54 round cut diamonds, deep green sunburst dial|
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)|
Movement: Vacheron Constantin calibre 1440, manual winding, 19 jewels, 116 parts|
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)|
Power reserve: 42h|
Functions: Hours, minutes|
Strap: Deep green alligator leather with 18k pink gold pin buckle|
Price/availability: £28,500
More details at Vacheron Constantin
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