Category: News

Bauhaus. We’ve actually talked about Bauhaus quite a lot this year with watch releases like the Nomos Tetra and the Farer ‘Almost Bauhaus’, to the point where my instincts would be to avoid rehashing old concepts that you, our lovely readers, are probably familiar with. Then Junghans go and introduce their latest timepiece, the Max Bill Automatic Bauhaus, which not only has Bauhaus in its name, but also the caseback features a depiction of the actual Bauhaus. So, strap in, it’s time to talk German design school again.

Let’s actually start by looking at the aforementioned caseback. It’s made from steel with a partially openworked design protected by a transparent glass cover. Printed onto the steel are the iconic lines and cubic shapes of the Staatliches Bauhaus, the German school in Dessau that is synonymous with the eponymous design movement. The building’s signature wall of windows is represented here by the open portion of the back, revealing the calibre beneath, acting as windows to the movement. It’s one of the coolest casebacks I’ve seen in a while, trumped only by the M.C. Escher vibes of the Glashütte Original Panoinverse.

Looking at the dial of the Max Bill Automatic Bauhaus shows off a lot of concepts that were born from the teachings of that school. Concepts such as form, function and style being the same thing and that shape and colour are the core building blocks of design. The perfectly circular shape of the dial and 38mm, black PVD steel case matches the rotational movement of the hands – there’s no excess, the shape is purely fitted to the function. The hour and minute markers are simple lines because you don’t need them to be anything else. The colours are some of the most foundational in the entire spectrum, black, white and the primary colour red. The use of red also happens to be a reference to the red door of the Bauhaus itself.

Housed inside the Max Bill Automatic Bauhaus is the automatic J800.1 movement, which is based on the ETA 2824-2 with 38-hour power reserve. The 2824-2 has been in produced in its many clone forms since 1982 and I think its age is starting to show because that power reserve does not do modern watches justice. The counter argument is that it is a culturally impactful movement that helped to revive the industry after the quartz crisis and remembering its influence is important – in the same way that Bauhaus revived German design following WWI and we remember it with watches like this one.

More details at Junghans.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

At the Sotheby’s Important Watches Auction in Geneva on November 5th a new world record was set for the most expensive British wristwatch ever sold at auction. It’s the double-signed George Daniels x R. W. Smith Millennium, which sold for a staggering CHF 2,177,500 (approx. £2,000,000). It’s worth noting that there have been some George Daniels pocket watches that have reached higher prices – one this summer reached 5 million – but today we’re looking strictly at wristwatches.

George Daniels and Roger W Smith are two titans of the British watch industry (check out our conversation with Smith all about The Daniels Method here) crafting some of the most spectacular timepieces that this humble horological island has ever produced. They are the ultimate example of a master and apprentice working together to produce genuine masterpieces. This Millennium holds a special place within the pantheon of their work as it was the only timepiece that the pair ever double-signed. It’s also the first wristwatch to ever bear the R. W. Smith signature before the eponymous brand was even created.

By his own account on Instagram, Smith found its sale quite an emotional thing due to its connection to George and the fact it broke the record for most expensive R. W. Smith ever sold. In breaking that record it also becomes the most expensive British watch ever sold as well, slotting into the top 100 most expensive auction watches with only Rolex, Patek Phillipe, Philippe Dufour, Audemars Piguet, F. P. Journe, and Urwerk having wristwatches sell for higher hammer prices (not accounting for inflation). The official top 100 most expensive auction watches changes constantly, especially with revelations such as £3 million Omega Ref. 2915-1 being a fake, so the Millennium slots in at roughly the 70-75th most expensive at time of writing.

What about the wristwatch itself? It’s a 37mm diameter piece with a white gold case and sapphire exhibition caseback that reveals the automatic, gilt brass co-axial movement. The dial is a gorgeous engine turned guilloché piece in a Clous de Paris style and brushed chapter rings. In terms of complications, it’s a classy suite of hours, minutes seconds and pointer date all featuring blued hands. It was produced in 2001 as the final piece in the Millennium series.

The signed George Daniels x R. W. Smith Millennium wasn’t the only watch to do very well at the Sotheby’s Geneva auction. A second George Daniels, the Anniversary Number 01, fetched CHF 736,600, a Rolex ‘Full Spec’ Military Submariner Ref. 5517 reached CHF 482,600 and an extremely early Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25554BA went for 330,200 CHF. An impressive auction to be sure, made all the more impressive by the amazing performance of Britain’s premier watchmakers.

More details at Sotheby’s.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

When it comes to the Marloe Coniston collection, it will serve you well to pay attention to history. History is full of people for whom ‘fast enough’ simply wasn’t a thing. A certain breed of adrenaline junkies have always wanted to push themselves, their engineering and their sanity to extremes. The most obvious take on that is the Outright Land Speed Record, which currently sits at 763.035 mph, set by Andy Green in a twin turbofan jet-powered ‘car’. He broke the sound barrier.

While water speed isn’t quite as flashy – it’s much, much harder to speed through water given the increased drag compared to air – it’s nonetheless been a historically important milestone for engineers to aim for. And where the Land Speed Record has historically had the legendary Bonneville Salt Flats, the floating equivalent has Coniston Water.

Coniston Water is one of the most beautiful places in the UK. The fifth largest body of water in the Lake District (after Windemere and Ullswater), it has a long, narrow footprint that all but begs for some serious water speeding. In 1939, Sir Malcolm Campbell agreed. After building his cutting-edge boat, the Bluebird K4, he set the world water speed record at 141.74 mph.

It’s a record that stood for nearly 20 years until Donald Campbell, son of Sir Malcolm, broke his father’s record four times in his Bluebird K7 Hydroplane. He did the same in 1967, achieving a speed of over 320 mph. It was fast – too fast, as it turned out, as Donald died in the attempt.

To this day Coniston Water still has a huge place in aquatic engineering, as does the legacy of the Campbell family – a legacy that is now a focal point of British watch brand Marloe in the aptly named Coniston collection. The Coniston as a design is in an odd place. It’s not a specific tool watch – it’s definitely not a diver, the lack of numerals precludes a pilot and it’s a bit too ornate for a field watch – but there’s something decidedly engineering led about it. The depth of the layered dial, the fluted crown, the knurled caseband, they’re all the kind of details you’d expect from a watch devoted to a vintage car.

That makes a lot of sense, given the era from which the Campbell family legacy came from, and it means that the Coniston looks and feels solid without the usual stripped-back, militaristic look everyday British watches tend to err towards. Measuring 41mm across, it’s well-sized for a sportier watch, and comfortable on the wrist, equipped with a workhorse Miyota movement for that perfect combination of reliability and accessibility. So far, so solid. That said, most of the collection’s story is told through the four colourways and the engraving on the back – which we’ll get to.

The blue and white CN7 and black and cream K4 are both inspired by their namesake speedsters. The K4 was Malcolm Campbell’s aforementioned fastest water speedster; the CN7 was Donald Campbell’s famous land speed record-breaking Bluebird car.

Then there’s the Trackday which is instead inspired by the family’s successes on terra firma, draped in his racing livery from the Grand Prix de Boulogne. There’s not much to say about the Black Edition, given it’s a cross-collection, stealthier take, but the three mainline versions all show off distinctive elements of the Campbell legacy.

It’s not too much of a surprise then that the Coniston wasn’t built in a well-named vacuum; Marloe collaborated with the Campbell Family Heritage Trust on the overall design and the individual colourways, with donations from every sale going to support said trust. It means that the Coniston isn’t just leveraging the heritage of a British engineering legend but helping to keep that heritage alive. Hence the engraving on the back of each watch: Courage is Not Being Fearless.

When asked by a journalist before a record attempt about whether he was ever afraid, Donald Campbell replied: “Of course I’m afraid, every time I get into the Bluebird. Courage is not being fearless. Courage is overcoming and smashing through fear.”

If that’s not stirring, not much is. But hey, even if you’re not one for legacy, not one for the story of a watch, then you’ll be glad to know that the Coniston, with its detailed design, more-than-solid build and automatic movements, is also one of the best value-for-money British watches around. And given that’s something that – along with breaking speed records – we do very well, it says a lot.

More details at Marloe Watch Company.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

At this point it’s almost a joke how many micro-seasons have inspired the watches of Grand Seiko. The Sakura-Kakushi always stands out in my mind, a watch inspired by the specific late winter to early spring period where snow and cherry blossom can co-exist – it’s a gorgeous watch but niche in a way that only a Grand Seiko can be. They’ve returned to the concept of seasons again for the new US-Exclusive 44GS Mount Iwate ‘Hanami’, ‘Tsuyu’ and ‘Juhyo’ watches.

Structurally and mechanically the three watches are identical with vintage sized 36.5mm diameter cases in the 44GS style. The 44GS design dates to the 1960s and was the progenitor of a lot of aspects we now consider Grand Seiko staples. Angular shapes, Zaratsu polishing, facetted lugs and sharp edges. You can see how those heritage elements have influenced modern collections in watches like the Evolution 9.

Where the new watches differ from each other are the colours and inspiration behind the dials, all of which feature the Mount Iwate pattern. There’s the ‘Hanami’ SBGW313 with a pink dial inspired by the viewing of the cherry blossoms, which occurs in late spring in northern Japan. The pink colour really suits the Mount Iwate pattern because it kind of looks like a macro photo of a flower petal. Although the vivid colour does clash a little with the green seconds hand.

Second is the ‘Tsuyu’ SBGW311, based on the East Asian summer rainy season. As such, this dial is a dark, desaturated green that’s designed to evoke images of the rich, rain-soaked earth. Although to my eye it looks very close to grey, which is no bad thing because it makes the piece look like an overcast cloud, which is also thematically appropriate.

Last up is the ‘Juhyo’ SBGW309, the winter model. The term ‘Juhyo’ translates roughly as Snow Monster and refers to the phenomenon whereby trees get bent over and deformed by the weight of snow on them. For the watch that means a hyper-vibrant blue dial inspired by the sun reflecting off snow on a cloudless day. In stark contrast to the desaturated ‘Tsuyu’, this may well be the most saturated dial Grand Seiko have ever produced. The ‘Juhyo’ is also different to the other two models here because in addition to being a US-exclusive it has the additional restriction of being exclusive to the U.S. GS9 Club.

All three house the 9S64 manual movement with 72-hour power reserve and impressive accuracy of -3/+5 seconds per day. It’s protected by a solid stainless steel caseback, which is a slight shame because an exhibition caseback would reveal the intricacies of the inner workings. Still, that’s only a small issue and to be fair, the main focus of this collection is on the unique colours of the dials anyway.

As mentioned, the 44GS Mount Iwate ‘Hanami’, ‘Tsuyu’ and ‘Juhyo’ are exclusively available at US boutiques and online in the US. They’re priced at $5,900 (approx. £4,800), near enough the same price as 9S64 models in the UK. Of the three, I have a tough time picking a favourite, but I think I land on the darker ‘Tsuyu’, the green/grey tone has a quiet elegance and strength to it.

More details at Seiko.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

If you aren’t convinced that smaller watches are becoming increasingly popular, the Draco Stellar Hand-Wound Chronograph could well be the watch that tips the scales. A 36mm chronograph with a cool, neo-vintage design featuring a gorgeous sunray brushed dial. I also happen to have the watch right here so let’s strap it on and see how it stacks up.

First impressions obviously revolve around its size. At 36mm it’s definitely a lot smaller than I’m used to wearing and that’s coming from someone who rarely strays beyond 40mm. However, it still carries a lot of presence on the wrist thanks to its 13mm thickness and polished steel finishing, which means there’s plenty of surface area to catch the light. It also has fairly long, sloping lugs that give it a lug to lug of about 40-41mm when I measure it.

In terms of style, the case is nicely understated with a smooth bezel and flowing, round shape. The crown also feels like it’s on the smaller side, which I wouldn’t notice except that this is a manual model so you’ll be getting a lot of use from it and it can be a touch fiddly. Completing the design of the case are the pump pushers that control the chronograph complication. The pump style is one of the most classic form of chronograph pusher and it really suits the neo-vintage elegance of the piece.

I keep throwing this term neo-vintage around and what it essentially means is that the watch uses designs and styles that were popular in the past to appeal to a modern audience. A great example of this is the dial, which uses Breguet numerals and a railway minute track. Breguet numerals, as the name suggests, were first developed by Abraham-Louis Breguet circa 1790 and have been in consistent use in the watch industry ever since. As such, their use almost always provides a classical or vintage aesthetic and on the Draco Stellar it works beautifully.

Focussing in on the chronograph function itself, it’s presented in a bicompax display featuring a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute timer at 3, a central chronograph seconds hand and a peripheral pulsometer. Now that I think on it, pulsometers are considered a fairly retro scale to include on a chronograph as well, enhancing that neo-vintage aspect yet further (when used in conjunction with the chronograph, they allow you to calculate a person’s pulse rate). The action on the pushers is satisfying enough because there’s a good amount of resistance without them being difficult to press.

As for the finishing of the dial, there are a couple of techniques on display. The central portion of the dial and the subdials each have sunray brushing, as does the minute track and pulsometer. However, the hour markers are presented on a ring of grainy finish with a rough texture that contrasts nicely with the smoothness of the rest of the dial’s brushing. The version I have here is the navy blue edition although it’s also available in salmon, grey and black.

Unbuckling the Draco Stellar Hand-Wound Chronograph’s Epsom leather strap to take the watch off reveals the exhibition caseback through which you can see the manual movement inside. It’s the Seagull ST1901, which is a movement you may well recognise because it’s used in the Studio Underd0g big eye chronograph series watches, like the Watermel0n. It has a 40-hour power reserve which is about what you’d expect from this level of accessibility.

When it comes to pricing, there are a couple of different options available because the Draco Stellar Hand-Wound Chronograph is exclusive to Draco’s new Kickstarter campaign. There’s the Super Early Bird for £310 and the Early Bird for £320, as well as Super Early Bird bundles for 2, 3 or 4 watches at £620, £930 and £1,240 respectively. Those prices also apply if you want to go sans chronograph for the automatic three-hand model – although that model will be available after the Kickstarter as ended whereas the chronograph won’t be. There are also quartz or meca-quartz versions of both styles.

At time of writing Draco have already achieved their backing goal with 12 days left. Which also means you’ve got just under two weeks to order the Draco Stellar Hand-Wound Chronograph. After spending a lot of time with the watch, the smaller size is growing on me and I can start to appreciate the trend for smaller watches a lot more. It’s looks really smart, the neo-vintage design is cool and best of all, it’s incredibly accessible.

More details at Draco.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Casio engineer and G-Shock creator Kikuo Ibe will be making an appearance at the G-Shock Soho Store in New York City on November 8, 2023. The store hinted about the appearance two weeks ago and made it official on Instagram a day ago. The event will take place from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. and […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

Read More 

Adventure is about exploring and exploring is about going places you’ve never been before, blazing a trail, taking the path less trodden and, quite possibly, getting lost. But then, knowing where you are in the world is the essence of a true explorer, whether you’re mid-expedition or a digital nomad travelling the world (but still needing to hold down a job back home). What you need at your side is a rugged outdoor watch or daily beater that can keep up with you. A timepiece that can withstand the elements – rain, wind, ice… rocks – and help you navigate the intricacies of making your own, unique way across the world.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Casio China is releasing the black and gold G-Shock MTG-B3000CXD-9A in November, which is also expected to be released worldwide in December. The watch is named “Golden Armor Divine Dragon” and is inspired by the 2024 Year of the Dragon Chinese zodiac sign. It has a dragon motif with engraved scale markings on the gold […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

Read More 

In addition to the MTG-B3000CXD-9A, Casio China is releasing a more affordable Year of the Dragon model with the G-Shock GA-110CDY24-4A in November. While the MTG-B3000CXD-9A is said to represent industry legends, the GA-110CDY24-4A is said to represent young talents. The red watch has blue and yellow accents and a special band print that represents […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

Read More 

Cushion cases have a rich history, dating all the way back to the 1920s and earlier. But therein lies the problem: history. The gently curved case shape has something innately old fashioned about it, the kind of old-world vibe that has served brands like Fears so well; rooted in heritage – all but defined by it. Which makes it a little odd that Raymond Weil have insisted on attempting to modernise it in the Freelancer 2790.

From the get-go, the Freelancer 2790 is an incredibly handsome watch. The 40mm case is pebble-smooth and, while cushion cases tend to feel a little larger on the wrist than their circular equivalents, it’s still an easy size to get away with. It’s a little more square than some cushion cases out there, but otherwise fits the template. The only change is the crown, which is a bit larger and more modern than you’d usually find on this type of watch. At the very least, it’s not fluted, thank god.

The dial too is relatively modern, in a reserved kind of way. Constructed of concentric circles for a lovely, layered look in this version in Blue Steel (no Zoolander jokes, please). The inner dial is textured, and a lighter colour, while the outermost segment is darker and more stripped-back. It’s a solid level of detail and makes a great visual counterpoint to the squared case.

The main point of interest however is the open balance wheel. Skeletonised might be a bit more to the point, as it goes all the way through the watch so that you can see a bit of your wrist on the other side. I wear watches to hide my wrists, but I have to admit the extra dynamic movement the visible balance brings to the watch is immediately appealing. Held in place by a relatively big, screwed-in bridge, it’s a design statement if ever there was one.

I’m undecided, however, whether I’d prefer it with a solid dial across the board. I’m always the first to want to cover up a date window and without that open balance, I think the Freelancer 2790 would fall more into retro territory, which I love, especially with the cool oblong indexes. But it would lose something of its personality overall, so this is likely to be one of the few times that I’d stick with the aperture as is.

One of the big issues I’m having with the Freelancer 2790, however, is its movement. The RW4200 has a 38-hour power reserve, which puts it on par with the outdated Sellita numbers I’ve criticised in the past. It’s purportedly in-house and is one of those times where I’d prefer something third-party if it meant better specs. It’s nicely, if relatively basically, finished, but not enough to warrant something with less than two days of power. At least it’s accessible – which we’ll get onto later.

Movement aside though, there’s a lot to love about the new cushion-cased Freelancer. The elegant shape is gorgeous, not to mention tactile. The dial is sleek and suits the ‘squared circle’ look perfectly, and that open balance wheel amps up the innate mechanical nature of a decent watch. It’s cool. The big question then is this: did Raymond Weil succeed in modernising the cushion case? Honestly, I don’t think so.

Sure, there are some welcome twists of contemporary flair here, especially that open balance, but it still doesn’t quite get over the hurdle that so many watchmakers have embraced, that of cushion cases being classical to a fault. That’s not to say the new Freelancer isn’t a good looking watch. It is, if you’re into something bordering Art Deco with a bit more going on. It’s well made, feels good on the wrist, is eye-catching in all the right ways, all the good things you want from a design-led watch. I just don’t think it’s cool in the contemporary way that Raymond Weil were going for. It’s just cool.

Raymond Weil being known for accessibility, that’s always a big point to consider, more so for them than many other watchmakers. I’m pleased to say then that the Freelancer 2790 matches up nicely. Sure, the movement’s a bit lacklustre, but the build quality and design across the rest of the watch more than makes up for it, enough that the £2,295 price tag is incredibly competitive. That’s on this impeccable bracelet too; on a strap it’s £100 less. Though that £100 is well worth spending. To be honest, so is the full amount.

More details at Raymond Weil.

​Oracle Time 

Read More