Posted on

Own a Piece of Tennis Legacy with Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

Novak Djokovic is one of the biggest enigmas in all of sports. On a sheer performance level, the man is insane. He has won 24 grand slams and recently completed the Golden Slam by adding an Olympic gold medal to his trophy cabinet, which only four other players have done before. Off the court he’s an enigma as well, tennis’ controversial bad boy who can’t help but claim the adoration of crowds with his play. And now you can actually own part of his tennis legacy with the Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic which is made from his recycled rackets and gear.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic
Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

That’s right, the case of this watch is made from a composite material crafted from 25 of Djokovic’s HEAD rackets as well as 17 dark blue and 15 light blue Lacoste polo shirts. This material is combined with an Epoxy resin reinforced with quartz powder and glass veil for an ultra-durable and lightweight design. You can see the flecks of textile material inside the case along with the carbon from the rackets, giving the piece an intriguing and unusual camouflage pattern.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

On top of the composite case, Hublot also changed its approach to the glass in order to further enhance the watch’s lightweight properties. Instead of a traditional sapphire crystal, the Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic uses tempered Gorilla Glass, which is half the weight of its crystal alternative. An unusual choice but one that reflects Hublot’s willingness to explore modern innovations. Depending on the strap it’s presented on, the watch can weigh as little as 49.5g.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

Below that glass is the watch’s openworked chronograph display. It’s presented in a light blue colour that matches the overall tone of the case. In keeping with the tennis theme, the chronograph elements of the watch feature accents in tennis ball yellow, including the chronograph pusher at 2 o’clock. A further tennis treat is the use of Djokovic’s personal logo as the chronograph seconds’ counterweight (also found on the movement’s rotor).

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

The movement that’s on display via the openworked portions of the dial and exhibition caseback is the HUB 1280 Unico automatic chronograph. It has a really solid 72-hour power reserve so you can put it down on Friday evening and it will still be ticking on Monday morning. Looking at the caseback you’ll also notice that the Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is a limited edition of 100 pieces, which makes sense otherwise Djokovic wouldn’t have any clothes left.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

I know that Hublot designs can often be divisive due to their bold, unapologetic appearance but here I think that works really well. It’s as bold and unapologetic as the man himself. Not to mention that it offers the opportunity to own some genuine tennis heritage. Of course, such legacy doesn’t come cheap with the watch priced at £45,300.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Hublot

Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

Ref:
441.QKB.5120.NR.DJO24

Case:
42mm

diameter x 14.5mm thickness, matte blue recycled composite

Dial:
Matte

sky blue

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Hublot

calibre Unico HUB1280, automatic, 43 jewels, 354 parts

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
72h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, chronograph

Strap:
Tennis

wristband, blue elastic, blue velcro and white rubber

Price:
£45,300,

limited to 100 pieces

More details at Hublot.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton Watch Review

Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton

Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton

While they might not be quite so prolific as brands like Seiko and Tissot, Tag Heuer produce a lot of watches and always have a steady release schedule throughout the year. So, at this point, I’m sure we’ve all seen a lot of Carreras and a lot of Monacos. What’s surprising is the fact that Tag Heuer continue to find new styles and creative outlets within these designs. Case in point, the new Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton, which I have here for review.

Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton
Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton

Taking it out of the box, I’m immediately struck by the vivid use of colour which is unlike any Monaco I’ve seen before, except perhaps for the Skeleton Limited edition in DLC and turquoise. The 39mm titanium case has a black DLC coating, which is matched by the black, skeletonised bridges of the chronograph display. Then, like a burst of neon light the hour markers, chronograph seconds hand and chronograph subdials are hot pink. It’s bright, bold and bombastic, which is entirely the point because it’s inspired by the vibrant lights of the Las Vegas Strip.

Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton

Tag Heuer have used bright colours before so that in itself isn’t that surprising, just look at the Skipper. But here, the mood of the Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton feels different. This isn’t a trackside sportster, a high tech F1 tool or even a cross-country grand tourer of a watch. No, this is a piece of Hot Wheels, Need for Speed, Fast & Furious, Burn Out insanity. And I kind of love it. An illegal street race under the bright lights of Las Vegas where you stop for a quick hand of poker with Vin Diesel, Brad Pitt and John Belushi at the Bellagio between laps.

Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton

On the wrist, it can’t fail to put a swagger in your step. The lightweight titanium is incredibly comfortable to wear and measuring just 39mm in diameter, it’s not overbearing either. It’s eye catching without being ostentatious because the darker, black portions of piece help keep it in check. Plus, the embossed leather strap with rubber backing is also comfortable and does a good job of preventing it from slipping.

Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton

Focussing in on the dial further, the Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton has the signature skeletonised display that Tag Heuer have used across a few Monacos now. It reveals the inner workings of the calibre Heuer 02 beneath as well as exposing the date function at 6 o’clock beneath the small seconds counter. Admittedly that small seconds hand is so small that it can be quite difficult to see but hey, we’re here for the vibes more than anything else.

Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton

The calibre Heuer 02 is also a great movement with automatic winding, an 80-hour power reserve and a nice level of finishing thanks to the Geneva Stripes visible though the exhibition caseback. It also has a really nice action on the square pushers for controlling the column wheel chronograph, which is a large part of the point of a column wheel mechanism in the first place because it activates smoothly without the risk of any jarring resistance.

Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton

That all brings us to the price: the Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton is £9,850. That’s exactly the same as their previous DLC coated titanium Monaco Skeletons so at least it’s consistent, even if it is admittedly quite a high price. Still, when you pair it with the sweet underglow of a night-time street racer, this is a watch that hits the spot.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Tag

Heuer Monaco Chronograph Pink Skeleton

Ref:
CBL218B.FT6236

Case:
39mm

diameter x 15.2mm thickness, titanium with black DLC coating

Dial:
Black

sandblasted with pink subdials

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Tag

Heuer calibre TH20-00, automatic, 33 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
80h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date, chronograph

Strap:
Embossed

black calfskin leather with additional rubber strap

Price:
£9,850

More details at Tag Heuer.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic Makes Exclusive Materials Accessible

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic

There are a lot of case materials that see frequent use in the watch industry, and some are more exclusive than others. That’s especially true of high-tech, advanced materials at the cutting-edge of R&D like ceramic. However, over the last three years Maurice Lacroix gave themselves the challenge to produce an accessible ceramic watch, the result of which is the new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic.

If you’re unfamiliar with ceramic, it’s an incredibly scratch resistant material capable of holding intense colour that will never fade. It’s typically made from zirconium oxide although as part of their research and development Maurice Lacroix experimented with different compounds in a variety of compositions. The outcome of these experiments is a material they’re calling ‘technical ceramic’, which combines zirconium oxide with hafnium oxide, yttrium oxide and aluminium oxide. This composition is designed to increase the material’s durability and strength while retaining the scratch resistance, colour, corrosion resistance and hypoallergenic properties inherent in ceramic.

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic

One of the biggest challenges facing Maurice Lacroix in producing the Aikon Automatic Ceramic was the signature shape of the watch’s case and bezel. The bezel in particular was problematic because of the distinctive ‘arms’ that are presented in relief at six positions around the circular shape. In order to make them stand out they require different finishing to the rest of the case and methods of finishing ceramic are somewhat limited compared to conventional materials. I can’t think of many ceramic watches even from high end brands that feature such complex, facetted shapes in the material – the majority opting for smooth hegemony instead even when it comes to octagonal bezels and the like.

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic

There are two size options being made available, either 39mm or 42mm. On top of that, each version is a strikingly different colour with the smaller 39mm option in white with a matching white dial and the 42mm edition in black. The two complement each other very well and would make for a cool two watch collection, you could even call it his & hers although both are in reality very unisex.

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic

As for the dials, they both feature a Clous de Paris style texture also known as a hobnail pattern that’s comprised of a repeating motif of tiny pyramid-like shapes. It helps to give the Aikon its characteristic sporty appearance following in the stylistic heritage of watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which coincidentally is another watch well-known for utilising ceramic. However, a ceramic AP is approximately 15x the price of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic.

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic

Inside the ceramic cases both models house the ML 115 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. It’s based on the Sellita SW200-1, a widely used workhorse calibre. While the power reserve is a little low by today’s standards, it helps to keep the overall price down. Both versions are priced at £3,100. While that’s not exactly an impulse purchase for the average person, if we’re strictly talking about ceramic watches, it’s one of the more reasonable prices around.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Maurice

Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic 39mm & 42mm

Ref:
AI6008-CRM22-330-2

(black, 42mm), AI6007-CRM72-130-7 (white, 38mm)

Case:
42mm

diameter x 11mm thickness, black or white ceramic

Dial:
Black

or white

Water resistance:
200m

(20 bar)

Movement:
Maurice

Lacroix calibre ML 115, automatic, 26 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
38h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date

Strap:
Black

or white ceramic bracelet

Price:
£3,100

More details at Maurice Lacroix.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

5 Country House Hotels Where You Can Live Like a Lord

Hartwell House

Hartwell House Christmas

Hartwell House at Christmas

When one is required to rest ones head at night, you could, I suppose, slum it at your average five-star city hotel. But where’s the country grandeur? The open spaces? The golf course? No, if you’re to truly live the good life, the life you deserve, then only the very finest in manor houses will do. Forget chain hotel branding, no matter how ‘refined’, forget so-called suites barely enough to swing a bloodhound in and embrace the true, aristocratic life of a country lord. Castles, royal retreats, and the kinds of places that resonate with the word ‘estate’, these are the country house hotels where you can really let your inner upper-class lordling loose. You know it’s what you deserve.

Hartwell House, Buckinghamshire

Hartwell House Garden
Hartwell House

Hartwell House is one of the three Historic House Hotels owned by the National Trust and spoilers, the other two are also included in this article. Hartwell House was built between 1570 and 1617, although the grounds have borne the residences of kings and royalty since the early 1100s. Today it’s a beautiful Grade 1 listed Jacobean and Georgian building set over 90 acres of parkland and gardens. There’s also an on-site, fully equipped spa with a swimming pool, saunas, steam room, gym, and experienced therapists offering a range of treatments.

Prices: From approx. £315 per night
Location: Hartwell House, Oxford Road, Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP17 8NR
Bookings: hartwell-house.com

Middlethorpe Hall, Yorkshire

Middlethorpe Hall

Another of the National Trust Historic House Hotels is Middlethorpe Hall, just outside of York. It’s an early example of Georgian architecture built in 1699, a few years before Georgian design reached a peak of popularity from around 1714 to 1830. Its grounds aren’t as extensive as some of the hotels featured here, but they’re not insubstantial at 20 acres. Plus, with York more or less on your doorstep, it’s a great hotel for a city break without staying directly in the city itself. The hotel restaurant has also won the Visit York Restaurant of the Year award twice.

Prices: From approx. £260 per night
Location: Middlethorpe Hall, Bishopthorpe Road, York, Yorkshire, YO23 2GB
Bookings: middlethorpe.com

The Victoria at Holkham Hall, Norfolk

The Victoria at Holkham Hall country house hotel
The Victoria at Holkham Hall Food

I must profess that I adore north Norfolk and have visited Holkham estate many, many times. However, as I have family in the area, I’ve unfortunately never had a reason to stay at The Victoria, a snug 20-room hotel situated at the gates of Holkham Park. The rooms are spread across two historic buildings, which are beautifully maintained, and the accompanying restaurant is renowned for its local Norfolk menu. On top of that, you can pair your stay with one of their exclusive experiences, like complimentary access to Holkham Hall, a guided tour of the gardens, a goose flight safari, or a day out with one of the nature reserve wardens.

Prices: Three Day Holkham Experience Break £330 per night based on two sharing (for dinner, bed and breakfast)
Location: The Victoria, Park Road, Holkham, Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk, NR23 1RG
Bookings: holkham.co.uk

Dalmahoy, Edinburgh

Dalmahoy country house hotel
Dalmahoy country house hotel

Dalmahoy is closely tied to the history of Scotland, having at one time hosted Mary Queen of Scots before her imprisonment at Loch Leven on the other side of the Forth. The land was eventually bought by the Douglas family, who had been close allies of Mary. The current building dates to the 1720s though it was first opened as a hotel and country club in 1976. It has 215 rooms and suites, two restaurants, a leisure club with swimming pool, and not one but two 18-hole golf courses. All of which are set amidst the vast parkland surrounding Edinburgh.

Prices: From approx. £250 per night
Location: Dalmahoy, Edinburgh, Kirknewton, EH27 8EB
Bookings: dalmahoyhotelandcountryclub.co.uk

Bodysgallen Hall, Llandudno

Bodysgallen Hall country house hotel

Perfectly situated to explore the north Wales coastline, Bodysgallen Hall is located between Llandudno and Llandudno Junction with views over Snowdonia. Secluded within 200 acres of parkland, it makes for an ideal romantic getaway as you explore the grounds and acclaimed gardens. It’s famous for its 17th century parterre of box hedges filled with sweet smelling herbs, at the centre of which is a sundial dated 1678. It’s theorised that the house started life as a watch tower for the nearby Conwy Castle, alerting the castle to any threat from the north. This is the third of the National Trust Historic House Hotels.

Prices: From approx. £275 per night
Location: Bodysgallen Hall, The Royal Welsh Way, Bodysgallen Lane, Llandudno, LL30 1RS
Bookings: bodysgallen.com

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Limited Edition Reimagines the 1/10th Second Display

Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition

Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition

Today Collective Horology is known for being a retailer in the US that specialises in independent watch brands but that’s not how their story started. Instead the brand started by creating limited edition collaboration timepieces with those same independent brands that proved immensely popular. Across the years they’ve continued these collaborations and now they’re presenting the Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition.

Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition
Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition

It a reinterpretation of the standard Defy Skyline that was launched in 2022. I’m a big fan of the Skyline because it’s one of the few watch designs from the past five years that feels genuinely new. It’s not an homage and it’s not a heritage re-edition. It’s an evolution of the historic Defy collection and evolution means change while still being grounded in Zenith’s roots.

For the C.X Edition they’ve opted for a pared back, almost industrial interpretation of the core watch. They’ve swapped out the satin brushed finishing on the 41mm case and bezel for sandblasting, creating a matte texture. That means it catches a lot less light and begins to feel almost like a utilitarian tool watch instead of a luxury timepiece. Although the angular edges of the dodecagon bezel and the edges of the caseback retain their polished finish.

Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition

As for the dial, again that almost industrial utilitarian vibe is present thanks to a raw steel tone dial. Similarly, the star pattern that’s synonymous with the collection now only extends from the centre of the dial to halfway up the hour markers instead of to the edge of the dial. It’s interesting how much impact such a relatively small alteration has. To me it highlights the practical and technical aspect of engraving the pattern into the dial rather than having your eyes slide across it naturally in a manner that almost disregards the efforts involved. It forces you to think about the processes involved in its manufacture in a way that the original doesn’t.

Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition
Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition

However, the biggest change between the Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition and the standard Skyline is the positioning of the 1/10th of a second subdial. Instead of being positioned at 9 o‘clock, it’s now at 6. It makes for what is traditionally considered a more balanced display with a line of symmetry down the centre. A key part in that symmetry is also the removal of the date window at 3. I really like the new layout as it feels less cluttered but more impactful at the same time. Additionally, the tip of the seconds hand and the 10 numeral are orange and anyone who has read Oracle Time for a while will know that orange is my favourite colour.

Inside, it houses the El Primero 3620 SK, a hi-beat movement with a 5Hz frequency. Considering how power intensive the 1/10th of a second subdial is, the calibre retains a solid power reserve of 55 hours. You can view it through the exhibition caseback that reveals a star-shaped rotor, which is a Zenith signature.

Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition

The Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition is priced at CHF 11,900 (approx. £10,625), a touch higher than the standard models at £8,300. However, I think that increase is justified due to its limited-edition status – only 200 pieces are being made – and the significant changes to the design, especially when it comes to the dial. They are available from Collective Horology and the Zenith Online Boutique.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Zenith

Defy Skyline C.X Edition

Ref:
06.9300.3620/63.I001

Case:
41mm

diameter, stainless steel

Dial:
Gradient

starry sky pattern

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Zenith

calibre El Primero 3620 SK, automatic, 35 jewels

Frequency:
36,000

vph (5 Hz)

Power reserve:
55h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Stainless

steel bracelet with additional orange rubber

Price:
CHF

11,900 (approx. £10,625)

More details at Zenith.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

Aera M-1 Field and M-1 Blackbird Present Classic Military Design in Contemporary Fashion

Aera M-1 Field M-1 Blackbird

Aera M-1 Field M-1 Blackbird

What is the most famous series of watches ever produced? It’s a big question with no easy answer. I think you could easily say that Rolex’s suite of professional and classic watches deserves the title as some of the most instantly recognisable watches on the market. Or for similar reasons you could highlight the extensive works of Gerald Genta. However, to me the most influential and genre-defining series of all time is the Dirty Dozen, a collection that has shaped field watch and daily beater design for 80 years. It has also inspired the new Aera M-1 Field and M-1 Blackbird.

Aera M-1 Blackbird
Aera M-1 Blackbird

The core aspects of the Dirty Dozen are their stark black and white displays, highly legible Arabic numerals, durable cases and reliable movements. All these features are found on the Aera M-1 watches although they have been updated with a modern, contemporary design instead of wallowing in the overused neo-vintage style. What that means is the 39mm steel cases have smooth, clean lines with circular satin brushing. The M-1 Field leaves the steel tone exposed while the M-1 Blackbird is the stealthier option with a black PVD coating over top.

Aera M-1 Field
Aera M-1 Field

However, what sells the modern appearance of the M-1 better than the case is the modern domed sapphire crystal, which has a dramatic impact on the side profile of the watch compared to the original Dirty Dozen. It’s very durable and scratch resistant while also flowing seamlessly into the bezel. Sapphire crystal wasn’t widely adopted in the watch industry until after the war and so the Dirty Dozen used Perspex instead in the box style where the glass protrudes out from the bezel and then has a flat top.

Aera M-1 Blackbird

Focussing in on the dial, both the M-1 Field and M-1 Blackbird are virtually identical. They have a black dish shaped dial with large, lumed Arabic numerals in white. Around the periphery sits a railway minute track that echoes the style of the dozen. Similarly, the time-only functions are split across the central hours and minutes with the seconds separated out to its own small seconds subdial. The only distinguishing difference between the two models is that the M-1 Blackbird has a blue tip to its second hand as well as a blue marker at 12 o’clock while the Field is completely white.

Aera M-1 Field

Housed beneath the dial is the Sellita SW216-1 manual-winding movement. It’s Aera’s first manual movement which goes hand in hand with this also being Aera’s first sub-40mm diameter watch. It’s also the Elabore edition of the movement, meaning it has been regulated to a higher degree of accuracy compared to the standard along with its 4 Hz frequency and 42-hour power reserve. It’s also got a higher level of finishing though that remains hidden by the solid caseback.

Aera M-1 Blackbird

In terms of price, the M-1 Field is £1,450 while the extra PVD coating on the M-1 Blackbird means it’s £1,600. Between the Elabore movement and cool aesthetic provided by the modernised influence of the Dirty Dozen, that seems pretty reasonable. I also appreciate how the M-1 is a true homage in that it acknowledges and celebrates the watches that have come before without copying them directly. Considering that Aera is a very young brand, founded just in 2022, they have already proven that they have mature watch design skills. Or if you’d prefer a chronograph, check out the C-1.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Aera

M-1 Field and M-1 Blackbird

Case:
39mm

diameter x 13.14mm thickness, stainless steel with or without black PVD coating

Dial:
Matte

black

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Sellita

calibre SW216-1, automatic, 23 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
42h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Black

Italian calf leather with white stitching and additional tan Italian pebble grain calf leather with white stitching

Price:
£1,450

(Field), £1,600 (Blackbird)

More details at Aera.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

Universal Genève Launch Trio of Polerouter SAS Tribute Watches Ahead of 2026 Relaunch

Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute

Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute

Universal Genève are an intriguing brand because they are revered for their influential designs to this day despite not being active in the industry for almost four decades. Like many brands they became unstuck by the quartz crisis and never really recovered. However, last year it was announced that the brand and its historic catalogue of watch designs has been acquired by the same team behind Breitling. And now we have the release of three Polerouter SAS Tribute piece uniques.

Earlier this month Universal Genève launched their new website and declared the 2026 would see the launch of their first brand new collections. However, they also teased that the intervening year-and-a-bit wouldn’t be devoid of watches with a series of celebratory tributes and limited releases helping to build anticipation for the full relaunch. That’s where the trio of Polerouter SAS Tributes comes in. A quick point of order before we move on is that when they say SAS, they’re talking about Scandinavian Airlines, not the British Special Air Service.

Universal Geneve Polarouter Vintage 1954
Universal Geneve SAS In-flight Brochure 1954

The three watches are a tribute to the first SAS flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles over the North Pole in 1954, 70 years ago. Universal Genève was asked to design the pilots’ watches for this flight and thus the now iconic Polerouter was born (initially called the Polarouter).The legendary two-part dial is specially created to be shock and magnetic field resistant while also being suitable for travel from the arctic circle right down to the equator. The brain behind the original design also happened to be a young, 23-year-old Gerald Genta, he of Nautilus and Royal Oak fame.

Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute

Moving to the new watches, they feature newly designed cases measuring 35mm in diameter either white gold, red gold or stainless steel. Each is a piece unique, with the white gold edition being auctioned for charity in May 2025 at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo for CFP Arts in Geneva. It has a lovely blue dial, which feels very arctic, along with a white minute scale and guilloché rehaut.

Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute
Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute

The other two unique pieces will be kept as part of the Universal Genève archive. The red gold edition has a fetching black dial with luxurious gold scale and matching gold hands. Lastly, the steel edition has a silver tone dial and red gold accents. It’s also my personal favourite because steel makes the most sense for the adventurous origins of the collection, pioneering Scandinavian aviation routes.

All three of the Polerouter SAS Tribute watches house a vintage 1960s movement, the micro-rotor calibre 1-69. It’s a really solid movement given its age with a 57-hour power reserve, although it does have a fairly low frequency by today’s standards at 2.5Hz. It’s protected by a solid caseback.

Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute

While these are unique pieces, if this is the type of watchmaking we can expect of Universal Genève in 2026, consider our appetites well and truly whetted. A new Polerouter is all but guaranteed so while it won’t be a surprise, it will certainly be welcome. What’s almost more interesting is what other projects they have up their sleeves.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Universal

Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute

Ref:
JU6910

(18k white gold), RU6910 (18k red gold), AU6910 (stainless steel)

Case:
35mm

diameter x 9.95mm thickness, 18k white gold, 18k red gold or stainless steel

Dial:
Blue,

black, silver

Water resistance:
50m

(5 bar)

Movement:
Universal

Genève original Microtor caliber 1-69 from the 1960s

Frequency:
18,800

vph (2.5 Hz)

Power reserve:
57h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
18k

white gold bracelet or black calfskin leather

Price:
n/a,

piece uniques

More details at Universal Genève.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack Explores the Void of Space with Musuo Black Dial

Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack

Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack

One of my favourite microbrand launches of the year so far is the sporty and characterful Venezianico Arsenale. An integrated bracelet sports watch with a gorgeously minimalist dial that puts all the emphasis on its finishing. Evidently Venezianico agree that this minimalist element is a core element of the design because now they’ve doubled down on that aspect of the watch by introducing the Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack.

Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack

Jumping straight to the dial, it’s now painted absolute black with Musuo Black paint. If you’ve never come across Musuo Black before, it’s an incredible paint that absorbs 99.4% of the light that touches it, giving it an incredibly strong black colour that looks like an empty void. A handful of watch brands have adopted to colour for their watches, notably Venezianico have used it previously on their Nereide and Redentore Ultrablack editions, as well as brands like Boldr with the Singularity. A step above Musuo Black is Vantablack as used by H. Moser & Cie..

Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack

For the Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack they’ve stripped away the hour markers and minute scale, leaving the dial more exposed to be admired. The only adornment is the tiny Venezianico cross above the central hands that are themselves skeletonised to reveal yet more of the dial beneath them. Paired with the 40mm, steel sports case it’s an interesting fusion of styles that works really well.

Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack

Turning the watch over it retains the solid caseback of the original collection with a significant change. Instead of an engraved image of the Venice Arsenale (a famous building in Venice) it features a satellite floating in orbit above the Earth with a shuttle in the background. It represents the bond between the past and future from the ancient canals of Venice to the final frontier, space. Behind the caseback is the Miyota 9029 with automatic winding and a 42-hour power reserve.

Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack

The watch is available to purchase from November 26th at 2pm GMT at a price of €800 (approx. £670). It’s presented on either a rubber strap or an optional steel bracelet for an additional €100 (approx. £80). I really like this as a follow up to the original Arsenale collection because it feels more special than a simple colour change, which on a technical level is essentially what this is. It’s amazing how much of an impact Musuo Black can have on the style of a watch.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Venezianico

Arsenale Ultrablack

Case:
40mm

diameter x 8.95mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Musou

Black, 99.4% light absorption

Water resistance:
50m

(5 bar)

Movement:
Miyota

calibre 9029, automatic, 24 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
42h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes

Strap:
Black

rubber or stainless steel bracelet

Price:
€800

(approx. £670) (rubber strap), additional €100 (approx. £80) (stainless steel bracelet)

More details at Venezianico.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

Luxury Gift Guide for Christmas 2024

Luxury Gift Guide for Christmas 2024

Clase Azul Mexico Día de Muertos Múscia Limited Edition Decanter

Clase Azul Mexico Día de Muertos Múscia Limited Edition Decanter

In Mexico, the festive season isn’t just limited to Christmas. In November, they celebrate Día de Muertos, a celebration of ancestry and those who came before. For Clase Azul, one of Mexico’s top luxury spirit brands, it’s a chance to celebrate their heritage by releasing an annual limited edition decanter themed around the celebration. For 2024, it’s the Múscia edition, featuring a plum-coloured decanter decorated with a musical ensemble representing the sounds of the festival.

Limited to 10,000 pieces, available in the UK on request at Hedonism Boutique London.

Abask Hector Saxe Leather Poker Set, £1,460

Abask Hector Saxe Leather Poker Set

What’s Christmas without a few games? The Hector Saxe Leather Poker Set is ideal for getting your evening cards off to a start in the right way. It features a buffalo leather case handcrafted in France that contains 440 clay chips, two decks of Modiano cards, and five resin dice. Whether as a gift for a friend or a gift for yourself when you set off to visit the in-laws, the Hector Saxe set makes it easy to set up a game and relax wherever you find yourself this Christmas.

Available from Abask.

Equiano Ominira, £180

Equiano Ominira

Equiano’s Ominira is an extremely exclusive 2010 vintage rum available in a limited batch of just 3,000 units worldwide. A blend of celebrated tropical rums distilled by Foursquare in Barbados and Gray’s in Mauritious. Tropically matured for a minimum of 11 years in Bourbon and Cognac casks with a touch of ex-Sherry cask rum for added depth, contributing to its richness and long finish. It has notes of dark chocolate, sweet caramel, and tropical fruits as well as touches of buttery oak and cinnamon and nutmeg spices. An invitation to celebrate, toast, and share with friends.

Available at Equiano.

Biokidé’s Baobab Moon Face Cream, €55 (approx £45

Biokidé Baobab Moon Face Cream

Whether for yourself or a partner, Biokidé’s Baobab Moon Face Cream is a moisturizing cream designed for dry skin and made with baobab oil, aloe vera, shea butter, hibiscus, and honey. It’s the ultimate fusion of authentic African ingredients and French knowhow to bring you clean cosmetics you can trust. The brand is currently undergoing Butterfly Mark certification by Positive Luxury to prove their commitment to a positive social and environmental impact.

Available from Biokidé.

Contour Boxes by Tom Aylwin, from £1,395

Contour Boxes by Tom Aylwin

Your watch or jewellery collection is deeply personal, so it’s only right that you protect it with a box that’s equally significant. Contour Boxes by Tom Aylwin are bespoke creations made from British materials that make for unique gifts. They feature incredibly accurate topographical carvings of any specified landscape in the world (or the moon/Mars) as chosen by you. Meaning you can pick a landscape that’s special to you or your loved ones. You can even request silver pins to be placed to mark the location of your house or a notable feature.

Available from Contour Boxes.

SIRPLUS Crew Neck Jumper, £150

Sirplus Crew Neck Jumper

For their AW24 collection, SIRPLUS are focusing on knitwear and keeping it cozy. The classic Crew Neck Jumper is the focal piece of the collection, available in nine attractive colours: mint, periwinkle, oat, kingfisher, marmalade, green, poppy, ink, and lapis. They’re tightly knitted from lambswool in the UK with clean lines and a simple, comfortable fit. SIRPLUS recommend pairing a neutral tone with a blazer or opting for a bolder colour over a crisp white shirt. You could even go a size up for a baggy, relaxed look

Available at Sirplus.

Acqua di Parma Holiday Collection Candle Quintet, £92

Acqua di Parma Holiday Season Collection Holiday Collection Candle Quintet

Acqua di Parma has unveiled their Holiday Season Collection, featuring gift sets of fragrances and candles designed to warm the spirit. For 2024, they’ve partnered with celebrated artist and architect India Mahdavi to create colorful and joyful packaging that combines Italian design with French wit. The dominant scents in the collection are Bosco with its pine and fir tree notes, Caminetto with its warm incense like an open fire, and Panettone, which smells like panettone.

Available from Acqua di Parma.

Kardo Luis Shirt, £310

Kardo Luis Shirt

Kardo’s latest collection remains faithful to its DNA through the presentation of many different artistic expressions from artisans across India, using ancient embroidery from the Rabari tribe in Gujarat. The results are pieces like the Luis, a 100% handloom cotton overshirt covered in vibrant applique motifs on Khadi denim. Everything about the oversize shirt is inseparable from its region of origin, the ultimate in single origin fashion.

Available at Kardo.

House of Hazelwood Queen of the Hebrides, RRSP £2,000

House of Hazelwood Queen of the Hebrides

Even among House of Hazelwood’s rare inventory, they count those from the isle of Islay, aka the Queen of the Hebrides, as some of their rarest. A blended malt matured in American oak with light tannins and a long finish. If you’re unfamiliar, House of Hazelwood is a relatively new Scottish whisky brand that sources their rare produce from a family’s private collection, making each bottle extremely sought after.

Available at House of Hazelwood.

Sonos Arc Ultra, £999

Sonos Arc Ultra

Invest in your own enjoyment this Christmas season with the new Arc Ultra premium sound bar from Sonos. It’s Sonos’ most powerful sound bar ever with 14 drivers and advanced Sound Motion technology. Sound Motion effectively means you’ll get the full enjoyment of surround sound from a single sleek bar – which can also be enhanced further should you wish with additional speakers. It’s a low profile but high impact addition to any home entertainment system.

Available at Sonos.

VYN Switzerland Classic Sneaker All Black, £335

VYN Switzerland Classic Sneaker All Black

Buy into all the insanely colourful, hypebeast sneakers you want, you’ll always have a space in your wardrobe for a sleek, well-built pair of all-black trainers. Made in Italy from German leather by a Swiss brand, these are a pan-European staple in the best possible way. The classic silhouette suits all occasions and the monochrome can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. If you do fancy a splash of colour, you can also purchase different heel options to keep things fresh. Yes, those heel options can also be black.

Available at VYN.

Ruark R610 & Sabre-R, R610 – £1,200 & Sabre-R – £699.00

Ruark R610 & Sabre-R

Ever wanted that nostalgic sound of yesteryear without having to dust off the vinyl? Enter Ruark’s latest complete stereo system. The deliberately throwback British audio specialist has built one of their best-looking creations yet, two Sabre-R bookshelf speakers and a high-resolution ready streaming console to pull them together, all in the same timelessly handsome style. The console also includes a phono pre-amp for adding a record player, just in case you can bring yourself to crack out the old records. It’ll be worth it.

Available at Ruark.

De’Longhi La Specialist Opera Coffee Machine, £799.99

De'Longhi La Specialist Opera Coffee Machine

Why head to your favourite coffee shop every morning for that sweet, sweet caffeine when you can instead have professional standard coffee from your own kitchen? And don’t say, ‘the culture’. The latest in De’Longhi’s La Specialist range has 15 different grind settings and variable temperature to suit any bean and type of coffee. It even comes with a HomeCafé kit that contains glasses, vacuum bags and everything bar the beans you could need. Sure, it might bankrupt the little hipster joint around the corner, but it’s worth it – on so many levels.

Available at De’Longhi.

Walker Slater Sherlock Coat, £425

Walker Slater Sherlock Coat

Our favourite contemporary tweed brand, Walker Slater, returns for the Autumn Winter season with a new set of tailoring fabrics and an emphasis on checks and windowpanes, with the colours ranging from classic blues to more autumnal dark greens and aubergines in the signature Edward and James cuts. Case in point, the Sherlock Coat, here in Harris Tweed Barleycorn in a Highland-appropriate Peat colouring, as perfect for crisp mornings on the moors as a far more mile winter in the city.

Available at Walker Slater.

Stenstroms Beige Textured Roll Neck, £399

Stenstroms Beige Textured Roll Neck

With this year marking the brand’s 125th anniversary, a new collaboration with menswear authority Mathias Le Fèvre seems fitting. With a Scandinavian heritage and shared passion for craftsmanship, sartorial values, and above all, great fitting, classic garments, the Stenstroms x Mathias Le Fèvre capsule brings together elements of 1970s and ’80s style points with a definitive air of Bowie, woven cleverly into the DNA of a Stenstroms fit and aesthetic. It works without questions.

Available at Stenstroms.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Posted on

The Best Automatic Watches Under £1,000

The Best Mechanical Watches Under £1,000

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Gradient

A cool, wearable automatic watch doesn’t need to cost the world. Or even a fraction of it. Price as much as anything else is a fundamental reason to buy a particular model or from a particular brand. But whereas in previous years we might have opted to showcase the most expensive watches ever sold, there’s been a dramatic shift in watches as a whole. That shift is towards one thing above anything else: value. I won’t say the days of flashy, big-ticket timepieces are gone, but it’s now worth taking a serious look at some of the best automatic watches under £1,000.

I will also say that the accessible end of the spectrum is quite possibly the most exciting. Don’t expect many metiers d’art dials, manufacture movements or cutting-edge materials here; who needs that when you’ve got a cool watch that you love to wear and doesn’t cost the world? You can’t (or more accurately shouldn’t) wear your solid gold Rolex Deep Sea all the time. So, from colourful future classics to mind-boggling specs-for-price ratios, here are the best accessible watches for under £1,000. Oh, and while there are plenty of quartz pieces playing in this particular kiddie pool, we’re looking strictly at mechanical. Because of course we are.

Oceaneva OceanTrek

Oceaneva OceanTrek GMT Automatic

There’s no one out there that offers as much bang for your buck as Oceaneva. Divers that can head down thousands of metres and look good doing it are their bread-and-butter, but their new GMT offers just as much watchmaking in a shiny, dressier new package. Let’s just run through this. A gorgeous silver dial, a red-tipped GMT function, a Japanese automatic movement and 200m water resistance for less than £150. And if you’re expecting it to come out flimsy and feeling cheap, think again – it’s as solid as a watch orders of magnitude more expensive. It’s not too good to be true; it’s just very, very good.

Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 12.35mm thickness x 22mm lug width stainless steel case, silver dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre NH34, automatic, 24 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Black or brown leather
Price: £152

Shop Now

Sheffield ALLSPORT Diver 1A Black

Sheffield ALLSPORT Diver 1A Black

When your tagline is ‘value on merit, not just on price’, you REALLY need to offer some value – and Sheffield offers a lot. Seriously, an automatic watch for £159 is already decent, but pair that with proper diving specs and a sleek, black PVD look and you’re looking at something that feels too good to be true. But you’d better believe it. If you’re after a solid watch with a cool, milspec look to it, the ALLSPORT Diver 1A – an ode to the Sheffield watches of the 1970s – has you more than covered. It really makes you wonder what some of the bigger brands are doing. It won’t be the first time reading this article you might think that.

Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 13mm thickness stainless steel case with black PVD coating, black dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre NH35, automatic, 23 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Rubber
Price: £159

Shop Now

Primitive Haus TimeKeeper Type-A

Primitive Haus TimeKeeper Type-A

Playing with colour as confidently as any British brand – Farer come to mind – Primitive Haus’ TimeKeeper Type-A is an absolute beauty. It’s hard to pick which I’d want on my wrist, but the cherry red with white hands, numerals and flashes of bright green is up there. It’s a fine balance of colours that lends some heft to the brand’s claim that their inspirations come from outside of watchmaking. If you think a Rolex Oyster Perpetual is as colourful as watches get, these guys are well worth having a look at. I imagine they have a shorter wait list, too.

Case/dial: 38mm diameter x 12.3mm thickness stainless steel case, twilight red dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 82S5, automatic, 21 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet, tropic rubber and NATO
Price: £258

Shop Now

Marloe Astro

Marloe Astro

It’s hard to find a more perfectly retro watch than the Marloe Astro; it looks like it was converted from a 1960s alarm clock, which is fair given that it was inspired by the Cold War space race. It’s the squarest of the square without venturing into Bell & Ross territory, in colourways completely grounded in the era that inspired it. I particularly love the cream version with gold indexes, glamorous in a particularly rose-tinted way. Better yet, it’s also more affordable than ever. This level of design with an automatic movement for under £300 is more of a no-brainer than whether we landed on the moon or not. We did.

Case/dial: 38mm diameter x 10.6mm thickness stainless steel case, cream dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Rubber, velcro, leather or stainless steel bracelet
Price: £279

Shop Now

Riley Watch Co. Amelia Earhart GMT

Riley Watch Co. Amelia Earhart GMT

A GMT watch for (currently) under £300 might well be enough to sell this uber-accessible slice of historically slanted aviation instrumentation. But if it’s not, the elegant minimalism of the dial and host of tasteful colours work hard to push you over the line. I particularly love the coral or ‘vega’ red with its stark white scales, taking its colour from one of Earhart’s historical aircraft. It’s fun, affordable and if you’re an aviation history buff, a bit of a no-brainer.

Case/dial: 40mm diameter stainless steel case, red dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre NH34A GMT, automatic, 24 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £299

Shop Now

Second Hour The Sattelberg Mk2

Second Hour The Sattelberg Mk2

The name is a reference to the Australian soldiers that fought in WWII’s Sattelberg campaign, but there’s nothing Dirty Dozen about Aussie brand Second Hour’s latest adventure watch effort. A trio of sector dials in blue, black-grey and a downright gorgeous yellowy gold, the Sattelberg strikes that perfect balance between fun and practical. It’s rugged and readable, practical enough to be considered a proper field watch, but with bright enough colours that nobody would dare point the word ‘utilitarian’ in your direction. It’s also worth pointing out that the seven-link bracelet it comes on is a thing of beauty.

Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 10.5mm thickness stainless steel case, blue dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9015, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: AUD $850 (approx. £440)

Shop Now

Boldr Enigmath Sinharaja

Boldr Enigmath Sinharaja

One of very few slide rule bezels available outside of the Breitling Navitimer, Boldr’s Enigmath makes for a solid explorer’s watch, particularly in the military green Sinharaja version. Named after the Sri Lankan forest reserve and designed to be taken around those very scenic trails, the Enigmath is proof that the ‘computer bezel’ is for more than pilots. Personally, I’ve only ever used one for splitting the bill, but with a bit of knowledge there’s a lot you can do with it. This is a go anywhere, do anything, calculate everything watch.

Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 12.8mm thickness stainless steel case, ombré green matte-texture dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Jungle-green canvas
Price: £484

Shop Now

Heron Marinor Caribbean Blue

Héron Marinor Caribbean Blue

Héron’s 1950s inspired diver offers a few things you’ll see a lot throughout this article. Cool, colourful dial? Check. Workhorse Miyota movement? Check. Specs and build quality that seem like they outstrip its price tag magnificently? Double check. The 12 o’clock star is a particularly nice touch, as is the French seafarer on the caseback. Sure, it draws plenty of inspiration from the legendary Fifty Fathoms, but that mix of elegance and utilitarianism makes for a watch that’s easy to fall in love with.

Case/dial: 39mm diameter x 12.9mm thickness stainless steel case, caribbean blue dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £495

Shop Now

RZE Fortitude GMT-S

RZE Fortitude GMT-S

If you took the Oris ProPilot and shaved off 95% of the price, you’d end up with something like the RZE Fortitude GMT-S. That turbine-like bezel, the applied indexes, the oversized crown, the watch is every inch the modern aviator, as far away from a classic Flieger as a Harrier is from a Spitfire. As is RZE’s signature, the whole thing is made from titanium with an ultra-hard, UltraHex coating that takes its hardness up to 1200Hv. It also houses a true GMT for that proper jet-set feel fit with its glamorous sunray blue dial.

Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 12mm thickness titanium case, radial sunburst dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9075, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Price: $699 (approx. £535)

Shop Now

Venezianico Arsenale

Venezianico Arsenale

Many accessible brands riff off the usual Genta talking points – your Royal Oaks and Nautili – but few riff off what I consider a much more refined design: the Parmigiani Tonda PF. Well, the new Arsenale from Venice-based Venezianico scratches that elegant itch for a fraction of the price. A vertically grooved dial in a variety of colours, a beautifully integrated bracelet and a lovely multi-levelled bezel all add up to an Italian-flavoured Fleurier stand-in with plenty of personality in and of itself.

Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 8.95mm thickness stainless steel case, Vertical Côtes de Genève finish dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9029, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: €656 (approx. £550)

Shop Now

Seiko Presage Style 60s ‘Retro Blue’ European Exclusive

Seiko Presage Style 60s ‘Retro Blue’ European Exclusive

European exclusives from Seiko tend to be the more restrained end of the spectrum, which is always a bit frustrating when you see what overseas get. Not so this year. On the GS side we get bright red and on the Seiko side we get this multi-toned blue. The blue itself varies from light, sky coloured to almost lilac depending on the angle of attack, bordered with a much darker bezel. The almost pie-pan curve of the dial is pure retro goodness, easily living up to the Style 60s moniker and as ever, you’re getting a lot of Japanese watchmaking for your money. With Seiko’s prices getting higher and higher at the top end, seeing them come back down to eminently accessible is a relief. That it looks this good is a godsend.

Case/dial: 40.8mm diameter x 12mm thickness stainless steel case, blue dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre 4R35, automatic, 23 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £550, limited to 3,000 pieces

Shop Now

Neotype LM01 Type D

Neotype LM01 Type D

Giving off some serious Black Bay energy, Neotype’s LM01 has all the hallmarks of a classic retro chronograph diver, right down to the old radium lume and sandwich dial. The tactile diving bezel might not be as practically gripped as some, but it’s just a joy to use, while the minimal but still sandwich dial, all make for a more interesting and dramatically more modern watch. Most versions are now sold out – and for good reason – but the full black version is still around and more than justifies its price.

Case/dial: 40mm diameter stainless steel case with black PVD coating, black dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Black PVD stainless steel bracelet
Price: £553

Shop Now

Sternglas Merion

Sternglas Merion

Even if it’s not a true super compressor, there’s something innately cool about the dual crown layout and internal rotating bezel that’s become almost as in-vogue as integrated bracelet sports watches. You can see why, particularly when it’s done as confidently colourfully as the Sternglas Merion. Yellow, blue, fume textured green, there’s a lot going on and it works incredibly well. There is a more ‘subtle’ grey and red version, but in case you haven’t realised yet, I like colour, meaning I love this. If ever I’m in the market for a dive watch myself, this will get some proper consideration.

Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 14mm thickness stainless steel case, green-orange dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre TMI NHS35, automatic, 24 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £569

Shop Now

Tissot PRX Gradient Dial

Tissot PRX Gradient Dial

One of the coolest variations of the PRX yet, which is saying something, the new Gradient Dial iteration is a winning recipe. One part accessible beater, two parts 1970s sports icon and finished with a dusting of dark blue to white tapisserie, it’s punchy and full of flavour. Look, I probably don’t need to explain the PRX to you by now. Given the sales, there’s a good chance you already own one. But if you wanted a good excuse to pick up another, this is your chance – and at this price, it’s worryingly easy to justify.

Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 10.9mm thickness stainless steel case, ice blue/metallic blue gradient on waffle pattern dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Tissot calibre Powermatic 80, automatic, 23 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 80h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £640

Shop Now

Duckworth Prestex California Limited Edition

Duckworth Prestex California Limited Edition

Full disclosure, I loved the original orange-dialled Verimatic so much I impulse bought one and my feelings on it have not changed. What I didn’t realise I wanted however was a California dial. It’s a good thing Duckworth Prestex know better than I do – and that the new run of colourful limited editions is as fun as it is. It shares the case and movement of the original Verimatic, but the split between Roman and Arabic numerals has a very different personality to it. That orange is particularly stunning, perfect for a sun-drenched drive down the Golden Coast, vintage car not included.

Case/dial: 39mm diameter x 11mm thickness stainless steel case, orange dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £675, limited to 20 pieces per colour

Shop Now

Omologato Heritage 75 Classic Timer

Omologato Heritage 75 Classic Timer

Omologato live and breathe racing so it’s no surprise that, while it might be similar to Breitling’s favourite shade of pistachio, the light green of the Heritage 75 is rooted in motorsport. Indeed, the entire monopusher, bi-compax layout could have been ripped from a 1950s pit lane, treading a fine line between everyday elegance and high-octane sporting style. As if that didn’t make it enough value for money for you, it also comes with a complimentary watch winder, to ensure it never runs out of gas in the tank.

Case/dial: 41mm diameter stainless steel case, sunray heritage green dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9122, automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 40h power reserve
Strap: Brown Italian rally leather with contrast stitching
Price: £695

Shop Now

Herbelin Cap Camarat Automatic

Herbelin Cap Camarat Automatic

Herbelin’s prices have been creeping up recently, and for good reason, as they’ve been coming out with some seriously impressive stuff recently, but you can still nab their 1970s-inspired Cap Camarat for a steal. The visible screws, industrial bezel and horizontally lined dial runs through all the Genta-esque hits, as reliable in that particular style as the workhorse Sellita movement. At 40.5mm and with 100m water resistance, it’s also a solid everyday wearer. There’s a reason this is one of Herbelin’s most popular watches.

Case/dial: 40.5mm diameter stainless steel case, silver dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW200-1, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £765

Shop Now

Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic

Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic

As a brand with some serious watch history behind them – particularly when it comes to adventuring – you’d expect a heritage name like Nivada Grenchen to have an associated ‘heritage’ price tag. But just look at the Super Antarctic, a faithful tribute to their famous 1950s South Pole veteran. It has that military expedition look, practical and streamlined like a slightly cooler twist on the Rolex Explorer. At £815 though, it’s more affordable than you might expect from one of the most recognisable and collector-appreciated watchmakers on this list.

Case/dial: 38mm diameter x 12mm thickness stainless steel case, black dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Soprod calibre P024, automatic, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: $1,045 (approx. £822)

Shop Now

Stella Breslin Liberty Mint

Stella Breslin Liberty Mint

Linen dials aren’t a dime a dozen, so one cropping up is worth a second look. Stella’s superb version is worth a second purchase. The latest Liberty Mint version – tangentially inspired by the oxidised Statue of Liberty – shows that cross-hatched pattern at its very best, aping both the colour and texture of a perfect summer suit. It lives and breathes that New York air, right down to the Chrysler Building and Empire State Building on the caseback. Be warned though: this is a dial you need to see in the metal to truly appreciate. Still images just can’t do it justice.

Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 12.7mm thickness stainless steel case, linen dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW-200, automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Leather or stainless steel bracelet
Price: $1,085 (approx. £853)

Shop Now

Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm

Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm

Rather than their usual trick of getting some high-profile screen time and moving on, the Murph, a key plot-point from Interstellar, was popular enough that Hamilton kept it around and expanded. You can see why. It’s a handsome tool watch with classical military vibes. A great fit on the screen and now it’s been reduced to 38mm, a great fit on the wrist too. It’s backed by a Powermatic-adjacent movement, one of the best in this kind of price range and the crisp white dial with vintage lume makes it feel like a vintage watch with modern specs. I’m sure you read that a lot; here it genuinely is the case.

Case/dial: 38mm diameter x 11.1mm thickness stainless steel case, white dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Hamilton calibre H-10, automatic, 25 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 80h power reserve
Strap: Calf leather
Price: £865

Shop Now

47ZERO Odd-Hours

47ZERO Odd-Hours

With the same funky aesthetic as something like Franck Muller’s Crazy Hours, French brand 47Zero’s take is far simpler but no less full of personality. The cluster of numerals are all in line with where they would be normally – two o’clock is still at two o’clock – but the different distances from the hand stack transform the entire thing. It’s not just asymmetrical; it’s chaotic in the best possible way. The gorgeously brushed teal of the dial helps of course, as does the price. Above all though, this is a watch about individuality and true to form, there’s not much else out there quite like it.

Case/dial: 39mm diameter stainless steel case, brushed dial
Movement: Swiss calibre STP1-11, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 44h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: €1,041.67 (approx. £870)

Shop Now

Farer AquaMatic Nazaré

Farer AquaMatic Nazaré

I like a colourful British watch and that pretty much encapsulates Farer nicely, especially when it comes to their AquaMatic dive watches. Are black, blue and occasionally dark green the only appropriate dive watch colours? Think again! The Nazaré is a striking mix of swimming pool blue, pink and dark blue touches that work far better than anyone short of a colour theory expert might assume. Finished with a subtly wavy dial and a chunky rubber strap (along with a matching light blue number and a bracelet), it’s ready to go for some winter sun.

Case/dial: 38.5mm diameter x 11.9mm thickness stainless steel case, spearmint textured dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW220-1, automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Red rubber, spearmint NATO and stainless steel bracelet
Price: £875

Shop Now

Certina DS Super PH1000M STC

Certina DS Super PH1000M STC

Certina owe a lot to the turtle. It’s been their horological spirit animal for decades and even (unintentionally) lends its shape to their retro DS Super PH1000m. So, it makes sense that this eye-catching aquatic teal edition gives something back. The STC in the name stands for Sea Turtle Conservancy, the charity that proceeds from this watch are supporting. It’s vital work and means that you’re more likely to be able to test this baby out while actually getting a glimpse of the creatures that inspired it. And hey, if the charity angle makes you roll your eyes, it’s a damn cool watch on its own merits – the 1,000m water resistance being a big part of that.

Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 43.5mm width x 14.15mm thickness stainless steel case, blue dial
Water resistance: 1000m (100 bar)
Movement: Certina Powermatic 80, automatic, 25 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 80h power reserve
Strap: Black rubber with orange stitching
Price: £885

Shop Now

Laco Saarbrücken

Laco Saarbrücken

Big, chunky, true-to-history pilots’ watches are the signature design of guys like IWC and, to a lesser extent, Zenith, but Laco have an equally rich heritage – and won’t charge you through the nose for it. Take the Saarbrücken. At 45mm of stainless steel, it’s a beast, and with the bare minimum of indexes for accurate reading, it looks huge too, right down to the riveted leather strap. If you were going to strap something over your flight suit, it would be something like this. And given it’s looked the same for just shy of a century, it’s never going to go out of date. It’s timeless timekeeping at its finest and heftiest.

Case/dial: 45mm diameter x 13mm thickness dark sandblasted stainless steel case, black dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Laco calibre 200 (based on Sellita SW200), automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Brown calf leather
Price: €1,130 (approx. £946.28)

Shop Now

​Oracle Time 

Read More