Category: News

With their madcap watch design MB&F are not exactly the first brand you think of when it comes to car related horology. You may instead think of Tag Heuer with the Monaco or Rolex and the Daytona. However, MB&F do have automotive inspiration running through their veins. It just tends to be more Pagani than Peugeot, i.e. insane hyper cars with dramatic shapes. Case in point, the new MB&F HM8 Mark 2 Purple.

Looking at this 47mm x 41.5mm x 19mm, vaguely U-shaped creation with an exposed rotor under a curved sapphire crystal, it’s hard to immediately see the car connection. However, consider it on a conceptual level and what you need to realise is that you’re not looking at a whole car. You’re looking at the exposed engine bay of a mid-engine monster seen from the back. At least if you’re looking at in a conventional top-down angle.

Rotate your point of view to the side of the watch (where the driver and passenger would be sitting in this conceptual vehicle) and you’ll discover twin dials displaying the hours and minutes. When wearing the watch, it’s designed to be worn with those dials facing inwards towards your body, which means that if you’re driving, they’ll stay pointed at you too, making them easy to read.

Looking at the name of the watch, HM8 Mark 2 Purple, a key aspect of this watch is obviously the colour. Previous editions of the HM8 and last year’s HM8 Mark 2 have all had fairly conventional colours of white, blue and racing green, so purple is in some ways a notable departure – particularly for a case as they have done purple dials in the past. It’s far more exotic and ostentatious, less grounded in the reality of motorsport or any other practical automotive application. In short, like a hyper car.

In order to achieve the rich tone of royal purple MB&F have used their proprietary CarbonMacrolon® material. It’s a composite made from polymer and carbon nanotubes, making it super lightweight and supremely durable, the kind of technology used in the automotive industry. It can also be polished to give it that high gloss finish and is built over the top of a titanium chassis to give it greater strength.

The movement on display through that rear-bay style sapphire glass is the HM8 engine. It’s actually powered by a Girard-Perregaux calibre as its base movement prior to being adapted with MB&F’s in-house jumping hours module and accompanying minutes. It has a 42-hour power reserve supplied by the exposed, dual sided rotor with axe-head shaped arms.

Like the previous HM8 watches the new MB&F HM8 Mark 2 Purple is a limited edition of 33 pieces priced at CHF 68,000 + VAT (approx. £61,250). Another glimpse into the mad world of MB&F – not the be confused with the MB&F M.A.D.

More details at MB&F.

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Over the past two years or so watch sizes have been getting smaller. That’s not to say you don’t come across the occasional giant but in general, brands that previously existed in the 40mm+ area have been experimenting with 38mm designs or even smaller. Blancpain aren’t exactly strangers to 38mm watches, there are already some 38mm Fifty Fathoms watches. However, all of those 38mm Fifty Fathoms are Bathyscaphes, not the core Automatique diver. So, it is significant that with today’s launch we finally have a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm.

Why does 38mm matter? Primarily comfort and wearability. The dive watch as a concept has largely surpassed its original intended purpose and in many cases is worn more because of its aesthetic style rather than it utility as a tool watch. So, while a large size goes hand in hand with the practicality of a tool watch (ensuring a wide dial for legibility), most people don’t actually need that from their watches. As such, prioritising comfort by reducing weight, ensuring it fits on the wrist well and the other benefits of a reduced size makes a lot of sense.

There is also the question of gender. Blancpain are styling the new Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm as a women’s watch. I understand why with the pink edition, it is overtly feminine with its ‘petal pink’ dégradé mother of pearl dial. Though with a grade 23 titanium case (Blancpain’s typical grade of titanium though an unusual one in the watch industry as its main benefits are things like heat resistance, which are less important in watches) and 300m water resistance it’s as rugged as any diver. However, with the 18k rose gold edition with black bezel and smoky mother of pearl dial, there’s a strong argument that it’s actually unisex. It feels serious and cool with a luxury edge you can imagine on the wrist of any CEO.

That said, we’d really like to see some Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm watches in the standard array of black, blue and maybe even green if you’re feeling frisky. They would open up the collection to a huge selection of new collectors, including the large female collector base who don’t want girly watches, they just want the styles and designs they already love in sizes that are more appropriate for them. Fortunately, in the press release Blancpain have said “the 38 mm addition completes the Fifty Fathoms family, offering options for every wrist and paving the way for future models in this size.” So perhaps our pleas have already been heard.

Focusing back on the two new models we have for now, they house the Blancpain Manufacture calibre 1153. It’s something of a power house with a reserve of 100-hours supplied by automatic winding. You can see the rotor through the exhibition caseback. It’s a super movement and helps to justify the prices. The pink edition is £15,700 on a fabric strap and £18,400 on a titanium bracelet, while the gold model is £26,400 with a NATO strap and pin buckle, or £29,400 on a rubber or sail-canvas strap with a folding clasp.

More details at Blancpain.

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Tudor’s vintage proportioned Black Bay 54 was released in 2023 as smaller alternative to the BB 58, with its own personality and subtle differences. Now though Tudor are releasing a summer edition of the Black Bay 54 called the “Lagoon Blue”, adding a colourful dial and steel bezel to the collection.

Colour has become increasingly important to Tudor over the past three years or so. The vast majority of Tudors share a serious, dark aesthetic in black or anthracite but with the launch of the Inter Miami Black Bay Chronograph and its immediate success, Tudor have been more willing to branch out into more brightly coloured designs such as the Blue Flamingo and recent limited edition Giro d’Italia Pelagos FXD Chrono with its pink accents.

The new Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is a lighter shade of blue than that aforementioned Blue Flamingo. It’s a very pale sky blue, though with its name I suppose it’s more inspired by tropical waters in shallow lagoons than the blue canopy above us. One thing that feels unavoidable about the new watch is comparisons to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, especially as Tudor have also given the piece a steel tone bezel just like the OP. Though it keeps its diver scale which the OP obviously lacks and has a bright mirror polish.

There is also another difference between the BB 54 and the OP and that is that the Tudor has a textured dial and the Rolex is smooth. The specific finish is a grainy, sand texture (very popular since about the 8^th of March, 2024) that helps create the idea of summer vibes and a tropical getaway. Think days at the beach in fine sand. With the watch’s 200m water resistance rating, you could even take it for a quick dip in the lagoon itself.

Powering the piece is the Manufacture Calibre MT5400. It’s a COSC certified chronometer with a 70-hour power reserve and automatic winding. It’s a really solid movement and brings the watch together nicely with its weekend-proof convenience. It’s a sign that Tudor are stepping their game up when their basic movements are ‘only’ chronometers instead of master chronometer.

The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is £3,590, roughly £1.5k less than an Oyster Perpetual at retail. This watch might not do much to convince people that Tudor aren’t just Rolex’s more accessible shadow, but I’m not sure that matters when people will fall in love with it instantly. Also, more colours please. And maybe some at larger sizes.

More details at Tudor.

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Farer has one of the most rapidly evolving watch collections of any brand. Many of their watches are only available for a handful of years before being superseded by the next generation of designs. but that doesn’t mean there’s no going back to a fan favourite. It’s time for the return of one of Farer’s most popular collections, the Aqua Compressor, replacing the models launched in 2024.

There are three watches in the new series, the Endeavour, Endeavour Ocean Blue and Hecla Hunter Green. In classic Farer fashion they each have distinct design elements that make them stand out from their sister watches rather than simply being different colourways of the same design. However, what unifies them are their seriously upgraded specs. They’ve transitioned from the Sellita SW200-1 movement with its 38-hour power reserve to the La Joux-Perret G101 with its 68-hour power reserve and high-end finishing including a bespoke grey PVD coating unique to Farer, visible through the exhibition caseback.

The other key update is the lume, which has been upgraded to the latest X2 grade of Swiss Super-LumiNova across the board. Offering a brighter, more intense luminescence compared to the old X1. It’s particularly noticeable on the Endeavour Ocean Blue because the ‘Ocean’ part of its name denotes that it’s a full lume model (based on the celebrated Ocean White edition) with the entire dial lighting up in blue, like an ocean, in low light conditions.

While the movement and lume are the universal upgrades across all three watches, they also have their individual changes and nuances that make them new and fresh. The aforementioned Endeavour Ocean Blue for example introduces a new blue PVD coating for the 42mm titanium case. Meanwhile the standard Endeavour in black has a fresh grained finish, adding some welcome texture to the dial while remaining faithful to the original, core Farer Aqua Compressor design. Hecla Hunter Green has a rich green colour with a stamped grid pattern that unavoidably reminds you of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore.

These are the kinds of tweaks and updates you can expect whenever Farer revamp one of their collections. There’s enough change to make the watches feel new and special while retaining the DNA of the Farer Aqua Compressor line. For example, it keeps its dual crown design with internal rotating bezel that are signature elements of the compressor design. As well as its solid 300m water resistance rating courtesy of its super compressor gaskets – a technique of making your watch water resistant by allowing the build-up of water pressure do the work for you by compressing the watch and making the seals even tighter.

For price, the Farer Aqua Compressor Endeavour and Hecla Hunter Green are £1,175 while the Endeavour Ocean Blue is £1,225 due to the additional PVD coating. A £50 difference is pretty negligible though considering that some brands would make pay through the nose for even the hint of an upgrade or extra feature. I must admit that Farer is giving me an identity crisis because between the Endeavour and recent Lissom Solander I’m realising my favourite models are the black ones, which makes me ask the question, am I boring?

More details at Farer.

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BA111OD are embracing the summer season in a way they’ve never done before with the launch of their first ever summer capsule collection. The Chapter 7 Summer Edition 2025 offers vibrant and colourful interpretations of their popular chronometer model, bringing a fun and fancy-free vibe to the Swiss design in a way that feels very British. Speaking of Britain, this new summer collection will be on display at the upcoming Hands On Horology showcase in Shoreditch, London this weekend on 14 June (don’t forget your ticket!). BA111OD have also prepared a surprise for attendees of the event that involves this new watch so make sure to visit their stand to find out more.

The Chapter 7 is a very recent addition to the BA111OD line-up, first debuting in February earlier this year. It was a major moment for the brand, introducing their first chronometer wristwatch and taking on a fresh sports watch aesthetic. The Chapter 7 Summer Edition builds on that by introducing a new black PVD coating to the 40mm stainless steel case. It creates a dramatic contrast with the brightly coloured dials.

Those dials are fuchsia, turquoise and yellow in vibrant, intense shades that remind me of the local ice cream parlour, full of strawberry sauce, bubblegum and banoffee. It helps that the vertical engraving on the dials looks like drips running down the surface, melting in the summer sun. The hands and hour markers also feature high contrast black details and facetted shapes making them nice and readable.

With the Chapter 7, one of the signature details is the fact that it houses a chronometer movement. It’s specifically the Swiss Soprod P024 which has been chronometer certified by the Observatoire Chronométrique de Genève – TIMELAB. One of the alternatives to COSC. With that certification that means it has a great accuracy in multiple positions, achieving a daily deviation of only -4/+6 seconds per day. The weakness of the movement is its power reserve of 38-hour, though for an accessible watch like this that’s by no means a deal breaker.

It’s priced at CHF 840 (approx. £750) with delivery expected in July. As a reminder, you can view the BA111OD Chapter 7 Summer Edition at Hands On Horology and take part in their secret event. All that remains is picking a favourite and I have to say the yellow is a particular highlight.

More details at BA111OD.

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Embed from Getty Images RM (Kim Namjoon) and V (Kim Taehyung) of K-pop group BTS completed their 18-month mandatory military service in South Korea on Tuesday. RM wore a G-Shock DW-5600 watch with his uniform as he greeted fans and the media with V. RM has also been spotted wearing a full metal G-Shock GMW-B5000 […]

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In general Breitling have two styles of watch release. They either release one or two watches at a time in solo launches like the recent Cosmonaute or they launch an entire collection all at once with dozens of new references. Today they’ve done the latter with a complete revamp of the Superocean Heritage range consisting of a whopping 30 references. Admittedly Breitling provide individual refs. for each strap or bracelet option, but that means there’s 15 new watches, including a Kelly Slater Limited Edition, which is still a lot. So as we have little time to waste, let’s get into it.

Breitling Superocean Heritage Automatic 44/42/40/36

The core part of the refresh of the Superocean Heritage collection is the revamp of the 3-hand automatic with date. Previously it was available at 44mm and 42mm, and those size options have been retained along with the addition of new 40mm and 36mm editions for people who prefer smaller watches. They’re made from steel with a handful of references featuring bi-metallic crowns and bezels in red gold.

The style of the case is largely unchanged with curvy lugs, a large crown and a unidirectional rotating bezel with baton markers. Most dive watches use Arabic numerals on their bezel to denote 60 minutes, but the omission here allows you to use it for minutes or hours depending on the situation. It features a 200m water resistance rating, making it suitable for aquatic activities like surfing, which will be relevant later in this article.

For the dials, they’ve opted for a completely new design that’s inspired by the 57 Highlands edition. It features the signature circle hour marker at 12 o’clock but instead of also having them at the other cardinal points like the 57 Highlands it has the bullet shaped indices with lume filled centres. Though the 6 o’clock marker is completely replaced by a date window for some extra utility day to day rather than for aquatic excursions. It makes it a great desk diver (especially the bi-metal editions).

As for colours, the Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 44 is available in black, green and bi-metal blue. Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42 is available in black, green, blue and bi-metal black. Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 40 is available in black and green. Lastly Superocean Heritage Automatic 36 is available in blue or mint green. That’s a lot of options, each offered on either a rubber strap or mesh steel bracelet.

Powering the watches is one of two calibres. The three larger models all house the manufacture B31 automatic that was revealed earlier this year, a first for the Superocean Heritage range, naturally. It has 78-hour power reserve and COSC chronometer certification. The 36mm version instead houses the Breitling calibre 10, which is also a chronometer movement but only has a 42-hour power reserve. For prices, please check the tech spec below.

Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic Kelly Slater

Kelly Slater is a legend of surfing with 11 world titles and 56 event wins to his name. In most sports that level of domination is almost unfathomable, but Slater redefined the game for over three decades. He now resides in one of the surfing capitals of the world, Hawaii. In celebration of his legacy and the islands he calls home, Breitling have released the Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic Kelly Slater.

Structurally it’s identical to the Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 40 above with the same case shape and 200m water resistance rating. Watch water resistance can sometimes be a confusing subject because some brands account for water pressure when a watch is moving underwater and others don’t. In surfing you have the added issue of the intense pressure experienced when you hit the water after falling in, combined with the shock of the impact. As such, 200m might sound like overkill for staying at the surface but it’s necessary to provide confidence that your watch will survive the waves.

The homage to Hawaii can be found on the dial, with a floral motif inspired by plants found on the tropical islands. If you were ever disappointed that there was no watch to pair with your Hawaiian shirt, boy do I have news for you. The blue tone keeps it feeling suitably aquatic for Slater’s profession as well.

Like the other 40mm models, the Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic Kelly Slater houses the new B31 movement with 78-hour power reserve. It’s visible through an exhibition caseback, which is also engraved around the periphery with the phrases ‘Kelly Slater Limited Edition’ and ‘One of 500’, denoting its limited-edition status with 500 pieces available. It’s priced at £5,350 on rubber strap or £5,600 on steel mesh bracelet.

Breitling Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42

In addition to the myriad 3-hand models, Breitling are also revamping the chronograph offering with the new Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42. It takes the 42mm case of the standard automatic and adds a pair of chronograph pushers flanking the crown at 3 o’clock to control the extra chrono function. The pushers are in the classic pump style, which I like because they feel the most retro while still having a modern edge.

For the chronograph layout they’ve opted for a bicompax with small seconds at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute timer at 3, retaining the date window at 6. It looks great with that Highlands style circle hour marker at 12 balancing the display. It feels very sporty in any context, not just as a diver, especially when presented on the rubber strap over the steel bracelet. The colours also lean into that with blue and green or a more luxury bi-metal black.

Housed inside is the Breitling B01 chronograph movement, a COSC Chronometer chronograph with 70-hour power reserve. It’s one of Breitling’s premier movements, which contributes to the watch being priced at between £7,200 and £8,550 depending on the strap/bracelet and steel/bi-metal combinations.

My biggest takeaway from this Superocean Heritage revamp is that the watches feel more retro than ever, giving them a more distinct separation from the standard Superocean. The stylised hour markers give way more character and the upgraded movements are welcome. Plus, new size options open the collection to a brand-new sector of collectors.

More details at Breitling.

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Seiko are celebrating their partnership with the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) by releasing a pair of dive watches dedicated to the association. Those new watches are the Prospex 4R and 1965 Heritage Diver’s PADI Special Edition. Both watches feature the same dial motif and so for this review we’re going to focus our attention solely on the higher spec 1965 Heritage Diver.

The element that jumps out immediately is of course that feature dial. It’s green (though in certain lighting it appears much more teal than green) with a vertical gradient that gets lighter towards 12 o’clock with some darker green patches right at the top. It creates the illusion that you’re sitting below the surface of the water with sunlight passing through the gently undulating waves. That effect is emphasised by the sunray brushed finish that radiates out from the 12 o’clock position rather than the centre of the dial as is the norm.

Green (or dark teal) is an interesting choice for a subaquatic design, as it makes the water feel murky rather than the crystal clear, tropical vibe you normally see from dive watches. It feels less like you’re above a pretty coral reef where you might have a chance of finding Nemo and more like you’re swimming over one of those dark kelp forests of thalassophobic nightmares.

That green dial is paired with a unidirectional rotating bezel in a matching shade of green. The chunky grip makes it easy to rotate without feeling loose, allowing you to keep track of your immersion time with confidence, even if you’re wearing diving gloves. Broader than that, the case is made from stainless steel with 300m water resistance. It’s styled after the 62MAS Diver from 1965, hence the name Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s PADI Special Edition.

Aesthetically, it’s quite a square design with flat flanks and bevelled corners that lead into snub-nosed lugs. At 40mm it’s not dramatically big on the wrist while also being large enough to ensure a good amount of legibility thanks to the oversize lumed hour markers and hands. It’s presented on a choice of steel bracelet, or a NATO style strap made from recycled fishing nets.

Powering the watch is the Seiko calibre 6R55, which is one of the Japanese brand’s higher spec movements as evidenced by the fact that it’s the go to movement for the slightly more prestige 39mm King Seiko series. It has a weekend proof 72-hour power reserve and features hours, minutes, seconds and date complications. The date window is positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, it’s also particularly small but that’s not necessarily a bad thing on a dive watch where the legibility of the rest of the display is more important.

At £1,500 the Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s PADI Special Edition sits in the mid-range of Seiko dive watch prices. Considering that the Marinemaster variant is almost twice the price with lower specs across the board, it makes the PADI feel like solid value. Though if you’re concerned about price, the 4R PADI is just £560.

More details at Seiko Boutique.

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If you’ve ever wondered why some of Seiko’s most famous watches end up with nicknames like Tuna or Turtle, it’s because they have a habit of giving them full names like this: Presage Classic Series in Urushi Black with Roman Numerals. Admittedly it does tell you everything you need to know but it doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue. Perhaps we can call it the Seiko Presage Classic Urushi Roman?

If you’ve never come across the term before, Urushi is a traditional form of Japanese lacquer made with resin from the urushi tree. My personal favourite examples of the technique come in the form of Chopard’s Zodiac cycle, which they completed in full last year. Seiko take a slightly simpler approach by using it to create rich, jet black dials.

They’ve produced several watches in the Classic Series Urushi line already, such as the GMT the difference this time being the adoption of Roman numeral hour markers as opposed to bar indices. It gives the watch much more of a traditional dress watch vibe in the style of Victorian clocks. It looks fantastic picked out in gold, reminding me of another traditional Japanese art, kintsugi, the art of repairing broken items with lacquer and gold. Though it’s actually based on Kanazawa lacquerware. Gold is also used for the 24-hour subdial and central feuille hands.

The layout of the Presage Classic Series in Urushi Black is based on a heritage pocket watch called the Timekeeper. Powering it is the calibre 6R5H, which is the 24-hour display variant of the more common 6R55. It has a 72-hour power reserve and accuracy of -15/+25 seconds per day. It’s housed inside the 40mm steel case with 100m water resistance, making it a practical daily wearer despite its dressy aesthetic.

It’s priced at £1,500, which reflects the craftsmanship involved in the creation of its Urushi dial and the 6R5H movement. If you want to discover some of Seiko’s other traditional crafts, check out their recent Arita Porcelain edition.

More details at Seiko Boutique.

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