A cool, wearable automatic watch doesn’t need to cost the world. Or even a fraction of it. Price as much as anything else is a fundamental reason to buy a particular model or from a particular brand. But whereas in previous years we might have opted to showcase the most expensive watches ever sold, there’s been a dramatic shift in watches as a whole. That shift is towards one thing above anything else: value. I won’t say the days of flashy, big-ticket timepieces are gone, but it’s now worth taking a serious look at some of the best automatic watches under £1,000.
I will also say that the accessible end of the spectrum is quite possibly the most exciting. Don’t expect many metiers d’art dials, manufacture movements or cutting-edge materials here; who needs that when you’ve got a cool watch that you love to wear and doesn’t cost the world? You can’t (or more accurately shouldn’t) wear your solid gold Rolex Deep Sea all the time. So, from colourful future classics to mind-boggling specs-for-price ratios, here are the best accessible watches for under £1,000. Oh, and while there are plenty of quartz pieces playing in this particular kiddie pool, we’re looking strictly at mechanical. Because of course we are.
Oceaneva OceanTrek GMT Automatic
There’s no one out there that offers as much bang for your buck as Oceaneva. Divers that can head down thousands of metres and look good doing it are their bread-and-butter, but their new GMT offers just as much watchmaking in a shiny, dressier new package. Let’s just run through this. A gorgeous silver dial, a red-tipped GMT function, a Japanese automatic movement and 200m water resistance for less than £150. And if you’re expecting it to come out flimsy and feeling cheap, think again – it’s as solid as a watch orders of magnitude more expensive. It’s not too good to be true; it’s just very, very good.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 12.35mm thickness x 22mm lug width stainless steel case, silver dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre NH34, automatic, 24 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Black or brown leather
Price: £152
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Sheffield ALLSPORT Diver 1A Black
When your tagline is ‘value on merit, not just on price’, you REALLY need to offer some value – and Sheffield offers a lot. Seriously, an automatic watch for £159 is already decent, but pair that with proper diving specs and a sleek, black PVD look and you’re looking at something that feels too good to be true. But you’d better believe it. If you’re after a solid watch with a cool, milspec look to it, the ALLSPORT Diver 1A – an ode to the Sheffield watches of the 1970s – has you more than covered. It really makes you wonder what some of the bigger brands are doing. It won’t be the first time reading this article you might think that.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 13mm thickness stainless steel case with black PVD coating, black dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre NH35, automatic, 23 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Rubber
Price: £159
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Primitive Haus TimeKeeper Type-A
Playing with colour as confidently as any British brand – Farer come to mind – Primitive Haus’ TimeKeeper Type-A is an absolute beauty. It’s hard to pick which I’d want on my wrist, but the cherry red with white hands, numerals and flashes of bright green is up there. It’s a fine balance of colours that lends some heft to the brand’s claim that their inspirations come from outside of watchmaking. If you think a Rolex Oyster Perpetual is as colourful as watches get, these guys are well worth having a look at. I imagine they have a shorter wait list, too.
Case/dial: 38mm diameter x 12.3mm thickness stainless steel case, twilight red dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 82S5, automatic, 21 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet, tropic rubber and NATO
Price: £258
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Marloe Astro
It’s hard to find a more perfectly retro watch than the Marloe Astro; it looks like it was converted from a 1960s alarm clock, which is fair given that it was inspired by the Cold War space race. It’s the squarest of the square without venturing into Bell & Ross territory, in colourways completely grounded in the era that inspired it. I particularly love the cream version with gold indexes, glamorous in a particularly rose-tinted way. Better yet, it’s also more affordable than ever. This level of design with an automatic movement for under £300 is more of a no-brainer than whether we landed on the moon or not. We did.
Case/dial: 38mm diameter x 10.6mm thickness stainless steel case, cream dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Rubber, velcro, leather or stainless steel bracelet
Price: £279
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Riley Watch Co. Amelia Earhart GMT
A GMT watch for (currently) under £300 might well be enough to sell this uber-accessible slice of historically slanted aviation instrumentation. But if it’s not, the elegant minimalism of the dial and host of tasteful colours work hard to push you over the line. I particularly love the coral or ‘vega’ red with its stark white scales, taking its colour from one of Earhart’s historical aircraft. It’s fun, affordable and if you’re an aviation history buff, a bit of a no-brainer.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter stainless steel case, red dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre NH34A GMT, automatic, 24 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £299
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Second Hour The Sattelberg Mk2
The name is a reference to the Australian soldiers that fought in WWII’s Sattelberg campaign, but there’s nothing Dirty Dozen about Aussie brand Second Hour’s latest adventure watch effort. A trio of sector dials in blue, black-grey and a downright gorgeous yellowy gold, the Sattelberg strikes that perfect balance between fun and practical. It’s rugged and readable, practical enough to be considered a proper field watch, but with bright enough colours that nobody would dare point the word ‘utilitarian’ in your direction. It’s also worth pointing out that the seven-link bracelet it comes on is a thing of beauty.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 10.5mm thickness stainless steel case, blue dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9015, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: AUD $850 (approx. £440)
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Boldr Enigmath Sinharaja
One of very few slide rule bezels available outside of the Breitling Navitimer, Boldr’s Enigmath makes for a solid explorer’s watch, particularly in the military green Sinharaja version. Named after the Sri Lankan forest reserve and designed to be taken around those very scenic trails, the Enigmath is proof that the ‘computer bezel’ is for more than pilots. Personally, I’ve only ever used one for splitting the bill, but with a bit of knowledge there’s a lot you can do with it. This is a go anywhere, do anything, calculate everything watch.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 12.8mm thickness stainless steel case, ombré green matte-texture dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Jungle-green canvas
Price: £484
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Héron Marinor Caribbean Blue
Héron’s 1950s inspired diver offers a few things you’ll see a lot throughout this article. Cool, colourful dial? Check. Workhorse Miyota movement? Check. Specs and build quality that seem like they outstrip its price tag magnificently? Double check. The 12 o’clock star is a particularly nice touch, as is the French seafarer on the caseback. Sure, it draws plenty of inspiration from the legendary Fifty Fathoms, but that mix of elegance and utilitarianism makes for a watch that’s easy to fall in love with.
Case/dial: 39mm diameter x 12.9mm thickness stainless steel case, caribbean blue dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £495
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RZE Fortitude GMT-S
If you took the Oris ProPilot and shaved off 95% of the price, you’d end up with something like the RZE Fortitude GMT-S. That turbine-like bezel, the applied indexes, the oversized crown, the watch is every inch the modern aviator, as far away from a classic Flieger as a Harrier is from a Spitfire. As is RZE’s signature, the whole thing is made from titanium with an ultra-hard, UltraHex coating that takes its hardness up to 1200Hv. It also houses a true GMT for that proper jet-set feel fit with its glamorous sunray blue dial.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 12mm thickness titanium case, radial sunburst dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9075, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Price: $699 (approx. £535)
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Venezianico Arsenale
Many accessible brands riff off the usual Genta talking points – your Royal Oaks and Nautili – but few riff off what I consider a much more refined design: the Parmigiani Tonda PF. Well, the new Arsenale from Venice-based Venezianico scratches that elegant itch for a fraction of the price. A vertically grooved dial in a variety of colours, a beautifully integrated bracelet and a lovely multi-levelled bezel all add up to an Italian-flavoured Fleurier stand-in with plenty of personality in and of itself.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 8.95mm thickness stainless steel case, Vertical Côtes de Genève finish dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9029, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: €656 (approx. £550)
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Seiko Presage Style 60s ‘Retro Blue’ European Exclusive
European exclusives from Seiko tend to be the more restrained end of the spectrum, which is always a bit frustrating when you see what overseas get. Not so this year. On the GS side we get bright red and on the Seiko side we get this multi-toned blue. The blue itself varies from light, sky coloured to almost lilac depending on the angle of attack, bordered with a much darker bezel. The almost pie-pan curve of the dial is pure retro goodness, easily living up to the Style 60s moniker and as ever, you’re getting a lot of Japanese watchmaking for your money. With Seiko’s prices getting higher and higher at the top end, seeing them come back down to eminently accessible is a relief. That it looks this good is a godsend.
Case/dial: 40.8mm diameter x 12mm thickness stainless steel case, blue dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre 4R35, automatic, 23 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £550, limited to 3,000 pieces
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Neotype LM01 Type D
Giving off some serious Black Bay energy, Neotype’s LM01 has all the hallmarks of a classic retro chronograph diver, right down to the old radium lume and sandwich dial. The tactile diving bezel might not be as practically gripped as some, but it’s just a joy to use, while the minimal but still sandwich dial, all make for a more interesting and dramatically more modern watch. Most versions are now sold out – and for good reason – but the full black version is still around and more than justifies its price.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter stainless steel case with black PVD coating, black dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Black PVD stainless steel bracelet
Price: £553
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Sternglas Merion
Even if it’s not a true super compressor, there’s something innately cool about the dual crown layout and internal rotating bezel that’s become almost as in-vogue as integrated bracelet sports watches. You can see why, particularly when it’s done as confidently colourfully as the Sternglas Merion. Yellow, blue, fume textured green, there’s a lot going on and it works incredibly well. There is a more ‘subtle’ grey and red version, but in case you haven’t realised yet, I like colour, meaning I love this. If ever I’m in the market for a dive watch myself, this will get some proper consideration.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 14mm thickness stainless steel case, green-orange dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre TMI NHS35, automatic, 24 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £569
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Tissot PRX Gradient Dial
One of the coolest variations of the PRX yet, which is saying something, the new Gradient Dial iteration is a winning recipe. One part accessible beater, two parts 1970s sports icon and finished with a dusting of dark blue to white tapisserie, it’s punchy and full of flavour. Look, I probably don’t need to explain the PRX to you by now. Given the sales, there’s a good chance you already own one. But if you wanted a good excuse to pick up another, this is your chance – and at this price, it’s worryingly easy to justify.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 10.9mm thickness stainless steel case, ice blue/metallic blue gradient on waffle pattern dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Tissot calibre Powermatic 80, automatic, 23 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 80h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £640
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Duckworth Prestex California Limited Edition
Full disclosure, I loved the original orange-dialled Verimatic so much I impulse bought one and my feelings on it have not changed. What I didn’t realise I wanted however was a California dial. It’s a good thing Duckworth Prestex know better than I do – and that the new run of colourful limited editions is as fun as it is. It shares the case and movement of the original Verimatic, but the split between Roman and Arabic numerals has a very different personality to it. That orange is particularly stunning, perfect for a sun-drenched drive down the Golden Coast, vintage car not included.
Case/dial: 39mm diameter x 11mm thickness stainless steel case, orange dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9039, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: £675, limited to 20 pieces per colour
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Omologato Heritage 75 Classic Timer
Omologato live and breathe racing so it’s no surprise that, while it might be similar to Breitling’s favourite shade of pistachio, the light green of the Heritage 75 is rooted in motorsport. Indeed, the entire monopusher, bi-compax layout could have been ripped from a 1950s pit lane, treading a fine line between everyday elegance and high-octane sporting style. As if that didn’t make it enough value for money for you, it also comes with a complimentary watch winder, to ensure it never runs out of gas in the tank.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter stainless steel case, sunray heritage green dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9122, automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 40h power reserve
Strap: Brown Italian rally leather with contrast stitching
Price: £695
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Herbelin Cap Camarat Automatic
Herbelin’s prices have been creeping up recently, and for good reason, as they’ve been coming out with some seriously impressive stuff recently, but you can still nab their 1970s-inspired Cap Camarat for a steal. The visible screws, industrial bezel and horizontally lined dial runs through all the Genta-esque hits, as reliable in that particular style as the workhorse Sellita movement. At 40.5mm and with 100m water resistance, it’s also a solid everyday wearer. There’s a reason this is one of Herbelin’s most popular watches.
Case/dial: 40.5mm diameter stainless steel case, silver dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW200-1, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £765
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Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic
As a brand with some serious watch history behind them – particularly when it comes to adventuring – you’d expect a heritage name like Nivada Grenchen to have an associated ‘heritage’ price tag. But just look at the Super Antarctic, a faithful tribute to their famous 1950s South Pole veteran. It has that military expedition look, practical and streamlined like a slightly cooler twist on the Rolex Explorer. At £815 though, it’s more affordable than you might expect from one of the most recognisable and collector-appreciated watchmakers on this list.
Case/dial: 38mm diameter x 12mm thickness stainless steel case, black dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Soprod calibre P024, automatic, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: $1,045 (approx. £822)
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Stella Breslin Liberty Mint
Linen dials aren’t a dime a dozen, so one cropping up is worth a second look. Stella’s superb version is worth a second purchase. The latest Liberty Mint version – tangentially inspired by the oxidised Statue of Liberty – shows that cross-hatched pattern at its very best, aping both the colour and texture of a perfect summer suit. It lives and breathes that New York air, right down to the Chrysler Building and Empire State Building on the caseback. Be warned though: this is a dial you need to see in the metal to truly appreciate. Still images just can’t do it justice.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 12.7mm thickness stainless steel case, linen dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW-200, automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Leather or stainless steel bracelet
Price: $1,085 (approx. £853)
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Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm
Rather than their usual trick of getting some high-profile screen time and moving on, the Murph, a key plot-point from Interstellar, was popular enough that Hamilton kept it around and expanded. You can see why. It’s a handsome tool watch with classical military vibes. A great fit on the screen and now it’s been reduced to 38mm, a great fit on the wrist too. It’s backed by a Powermatic-adjacent movement, one of the best in this kind of price range and the crisp white dial with vintage lume makes it feel like a vintage watch with modern specs. I’m sure you read that a lot; here it genuinely is the case.
Case/dial: 38mm diameter x 11.1mm thickness stainless steel case, white dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Hamilton calibre H-10, automatic, 25 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 80h power reserve
Strap: Calf leather
Price: £865
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47ZERO Odd-Hours
With the same funky aesthetic as something like Franck Muller’s Crazy Hours, French brand 47Zero’s take is far simpler but no less full of personality. The cluster of numerals are all in line with where they would be normally – two o’clock is still at two o’clock – but the different distances from the hand stack transform the entire thing. It’s not just asymmetrical; it’s chaotic in the best possible way. The gorgeously brushed teal of the dial helps of course, as does the price. Above all though, this is a watch about individuality and true to form, there’s not much else out there quite like it.
Case/dial: 39mm diameter stainless steel case, brushed dial
Movement: Swiss calibre STP1-11, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 44h power reserve
Strap: Leather
Price: €1,041.67 (approx. £870)
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Farer AquaMatic Nazaré
I like a colourful British watch and that pretty much encapsulates Farer nicely, especially when it comes to their AquaMatic dive watches. Are black, blue and occasionally dark green the only appropriate dive watch colours? Think again! The Nazaré is a striking mix of swimming pool blue, pink and dark blue touches that work far better than anyone short of a colour theory expert might assume. Finished with a subtly wavy dial and a chunky rubber strap (along with a matching light blue number and a bracelet), it’s ready to go for some winter sun.
Case/dial: 38.5mm diameter x 11.9mm thickness stainless steel case, spearmint textured dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW220-1, automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Red rubber, spearmint NATO and stainless steel bracelet
Price: £875
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Certina DS Super PH1000M STC
Certina owe a lot to the turtle. It’s been their horological spirit animal for decades and even (unintentionally) lends its shape to their retro DS Super PH1000m. So, it makes sense that this eye-catching aquatic teal edition gives something back. The STC in the name stands for Sea Turtle Conservancy, the charity that proceeds from this watch are supporting. It’s vital work and means that you’re more likely to be able to test this baby out while actually getting a glimpse of the creatures that inspired it. And hey, if the charity angle makes you roll your eyes, it’s a damn cool watch on its own merits – the 1,000m water resistance being a big part of that.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 43.5mm width x 14.15mm thickness stainless steel case, blue dial
Water resistance: 1000m (100 bar)
Movement: Certina Powermatic 80, automatic, 25 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 80h power reserve
Strap: Black rubber with orange stitching
Price: £885
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Laco Saarbrücken
Big, chunky, true-to-history pilots’ watches are the signature design of guys like IWC and, to a lesser extent, Zenith, but Laco have an equally rich heritage – and won’t charge you through the nose for it. Take the Saarbrücken. At 45mm of stainless steel, it’s a beast, and with the bare minimum of indexes for accurate reading, it looks huge too, right down to the riveted leather strap. If you were going to strap something over your flight suit, it would be something like this. And given it’s looked the same for just shy of a century, it’s never going to go out of date. It’s timeless timekeeping at its finest and heftiest.
Case/dial: 45mm diameter x 13mm thickness dark sandblasted stainless steel case, black dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Laco calibre 200 (based on Sellita SW200), automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Brown calf leather
Price: €1,130 (approx. £946.28)
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