It’s a fact of the watch industry that not every brand survives and not every brand thrives. There are some names that disappear completely and some that fade into relative obscurity under uninspired management and poor creative direction. The brand Enicar comes to mind, now a shadow of their former selves. One brand experiencing a similar fate is Universal Genève, a powerhouse of Swiss horology during the early and mid-20th century that struggled during the quartz crisis and hasn’t done much of anything since the 80s despite the fact they’ve always been around. However, hope for a much anticipated revival is here with the news that Breitling have acquired Universal Genève.
Article about the Universal Genève Polerouter, 1965/Vintage ad for Universal Genève Tri-Compax, 1952
Speaking about the new acquisition, Breitling CEO Georges Kern said, “As excited as we are, we are also fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold. Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavour—it is a meticulous labour of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years. A dedicated team will be brought on board to allow Breitling and Universal Genève to operate as separate maisons.”
Universal Genève Polerouter S-20217-4 1955
Naturally with news of Breitling acquiring Universal Genève just emerging now, it’s too early to say what this new era of Universal Genève will look like and what their first new watches will be. However, if we want to get into the realm of speculation, Breitling have highlighted a handful of significant watches in UG’s history so perhaps those watches may be on the tables. They specifically call out the Cabriolet, Compax and Tri-Compax chronographs, Polerouter and Golden Shadow. The Polerouter in particular seems like a no-brainer and in fact an entire book dedicated to its history has just been published.
Universal Genève, automotive race, Brazil, 1950s
If Universal Genève do make a fully-fledged return to the global watchmaking stage beyond its current Hong Kong-centric focus, it will be a massive moment for collectors. UG’s watches are still remembered incredibly fondly and judging by the words of Alfred Gantner, Co-Founder of Partners Group and Chairman of the Breitling board, Breitling are just as excited about the possibilities as the collectors are, “Universal Genève was once hailed as the couturier of watchmaking, renowned for its in-house movements and mythical models. It is a brand that watch enthusiasts have dreamed of seeing make a permanent comeback.”
More details at Breitling.
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