While Switzerland retains its prestige as the most prominent watchmaking country in the world, the next most prestigious country below them is a lot more contentious. With the heritage of Glashütte it could be Germany, or if we’re talking historical importance it could be Britain. But I would argue that it’s Japan. Between the immaculate work of independent watchmakers like Hajime Asaoka to the flawless finishing of Grand Seiko and the insane popularity of accessible brands like Citizen, the Japanese influence on international watchmaking is undeniable. So much so that the country forms the latest inspiration for Jean-Claude Biver’s eponymous brand with the launch of the Biver Automatique Japan Edition.
There are two watches in the Japan collection, both featuring brand new enamel dials. The first is a black enamel dial version with rose gold applied hour markers and a matching rose gold case. While the second has a white enamel dial paired with white gold hour markers and a platinum case. The idea behind creating white and black versions stems from both Japanese and Swiss traditions. In Japan the concept of light and shadow is very important, in fact a few years ago it was the central theme for one of Grand Seiko’s European exclusives. Meanwhile in Switzerland, black and white are two of the most traditional dress watch colours in existence. Together these traditions make for a natural partnership that works incredibly well.
One of the significant difficulties in creating enamel dials for the Automatique is the use of applied indexes. Enamel is by its very nature a fragile material prone to cracking and shattering if here is any flaw in its creation. Attaching gold indexes to its surface would likely be disastrous and risk destroying already completed dials. As such, Biver took extra pains to ensure this wouldn’t happen by leaving gaps in the enamel, allowing the indexes to be attached to the gold dial plate below directly. This presented its own issues as the tolerances involved to ensure that there are no gaps between the enamel and indexes are tiny. Fortunately Biver worked with Les Émailleurs de la Cité, one of Switzerland’s top enamel brands, to create the dial.
Looking at the cases, they are just as superbly crafted as the dials. Measuring 39mm in diameter they’re svelte and sleek with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces. The way the lustre of the platinum and rose gold interacts with the light as it moves across the alternating finishes is captivating. It also has 80m water resistance, which is higher than the usual 30m-50m you’d expect from a dress watch.
Protected by that water resistance is the Calibre JCB-003, an automatic movement with a 65-hour power reserve that’s supplied by a 22k gold micro-rotor. You can admire the insane level of finishing on the movement through the exhibition caseback, which reveals the circular graining, satin brushing and guilloché that’s been used. There isn’t a single surface that hasn’t been decorated.
Considering that the Biver Automatique Japan Edition is so heavily influenced by Japan, it’s just right that it’s exclusively available in that country. It’s being sold through The Hour Glass Japan, a prominent retailer and boutique over there. If you’re curious though, the prices are CHF 92,000 for the platinum and CHF 89,000 for the gold (approx. £80,500 / £78,000).
Price and Specs:
Model:
Biver
Automatique Japan Edition
Case:
39mm
diameter x 10mm thickness, platinum or 18k rose gold case
Dial:
White
or black enamel
Water resistance:
80m
(8 bar)
Movement:
Calibre
JCB-003, automatic, 36 jewels
Frequency:
25,200
vph (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve:
65h
Functions:
Hours,
minutes, seconds
Strap:
Grey
or brown alligator nubuck strap
Price:
CHF
92,000 (approx. £80,500) (platinum), CHF 89,000 (approx. £78,000) (rose gold), exclusive to The Hour Glass Japan
More details at Biver.
Oracle Time