Since the launch of the Automatique in 2024 that’s the model that has dominated the conversation when it comes to the watches of Biver, Jean-Claude Biver’s eponymous brand. However, the watch that kicked things off for the brand, the Carillon, hasn’t been completely forgotten about. The Automatique’s much more grandiose cousin is back with the launch of the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Desert Rose.
It fits in right alongside the maximalist designs of the original collection with a 42mm rose gold case and a Mother-of-Pearl guilloché dial. At the most basic level, it’s a rose gold interpretation of the Mother-of-Pearl edition that has already been released. However, one of the features that makes it distinct is the application of ruby hour markers. It’s those rubies that give it the name Desert Rose, inspired by the colour of Adenium Obesum’s petals, the succulent plant commonly called Desert Rose.
In addition to the immaculate finishing of the dial, a lot of the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Desert Rose’s charms are internal. You can even catch a glimpse of some of them though the openworked tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The movement itself is the JCB-001-B, which features both a tourbillon and carillon minute repeater. It has a 72-hour power reserve supplied by a micro-rotor visible through the exhibition caseback.
I do understand why the Automatique has been met with a much warmer critical reception than the Carillon Tourbillon. The latter is over the top, uber luxurious and incredibly exclusive. The Biver Carillon Tourbillon Desert Rose for example has a price of CHF 670,000 (approx. £587,000) and is a unique piece. However, I’m also glad it exists. Horology would be a boring place if watch designers didn’t explore multiple avenues and for everyone who enjoys minimalism, there’s a maximalist out there. It’s just much harder to do maximalist in a way that the average collector could potentially afford.
Price and Specs:
Model:
Biver
Carillon Tourbillon Desert Rose
Case:
42mm
diameter x 13.7mm thickness, 18k rose gold
Dial:
Mother-of-Pearl
with Guilloché center, ruby markers
Water resistance:
50m
(5 bar)
Movement:
Jc
Biver calibre JCB-001-B, automatic, micro-rotor, 44 jewels, 374 parts
Frequency:
21,600
vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve:
72h
Functions:
Hours,
minutes, minute repeater, tourbillon
Strap:
18k
rose gold bracelet with 18k gold folding clasp
Price:
CHF
670,000 (excl. local taxes and duties) (approx. £)
More details at Biver.
Oracle Time