By Nagmani
Watch customization has become a heated subject of discussion among the rich and famous who
also happen to be big watch enthusiasts as they delve into buying coveted timepieces that are
reflective of their personality. But most importantly, their desire is to stay one step ahead by buying
one-of-a-kind timepieces hardly available to others in the same league.
If that’s not enough for them, then they’re getting their watches completely modified according to
their own preferences, which only a select few high-end watch brands, renowned independent
watchmakers or highly recognized bespoke watch companies can deliver without a glitch. This is
where things are getting really interesting. All in all, it has opened a whole new plethora of
possibilities for luxury watch brands to experiment with and make the most of this vast bespoke
watchmaking market. Before we go further, one thing is quite clear that bespoke timepieces are rare,
exclusive and extremely costly, which only the super rich can afford. Also such one-off creations are
centered around the emotions of these people.
Exclusive factors underpin the world of bespoke watchmaking
There are several watch brands out there producing bespoke timepieces where they adorn only
certain parts such as the dial, case, hands, crown, lugs or bezel with precious gemstones at the
request of their clients. In some cases, the clients just want the dials, hands, straps or colours of
the watches to be made more specific according to their taste whereas some want their watches
to simply reflect their individuality by getting unique engravings on the dials.
As mentioned earlier, the brands that are fully equipped with all the tools to create bespoke
watches can only make it happen in an exclusive way. Thus, brands like Jacob & Co. are famous
for producing diamond-studded custom timepieces with insane complications and bold aesthetics
for its celebrity customers from scratch. And its customised timepieces are very much exclusive
and therefore they’re always replete with new parameters for watch collectors to take note of with
respect to designs, materials and intricacies. The brand already boasts having created an
Astronomia Sky watch for the Leonardo DiCaprio’s charitable foundation and designed a bespoke
Five-Time Zone watch for the late designer Virgil Abloh including the Caviar Tourbillon Tsavorites
timepiece for the Portuguese soccer icon Cristiano Ronaldo and Hermes Bugatti Chiron watch
tailored for the Iranian-American entrepreneur and car enthusiast Manny Khoshbin in line with the
features of his Hermes Bugatti Chiron car. It’s another great feat by Jacob & Co. in the field of fine
watchmaking as the caseback of this bespoke piece comes embellished with detailed horse
patterns whereas all the pistons on the dial are shining in rose gold with other components
steeped in silver, craie (chalk) and red colours. Most importantly, its Bugatti Chiron and other
collections are never-before-seen pieces that never fall short of turning heads in the industry while Patek Philippe shows the marvelous world of complicated watches through its Rare Handcrafts Collection. These brands really know what it means to be exclusive since being exclusive is a hard nut to crack.
And this trait comes naturally to Vacheron Constantin which is considered one of the finest watchmaking
Maisons when it comes to creating bespoke watches which are supposedly very complex yet sublime in
the eyes of its clients. With this in mind, in 2006, it created a whole new creative unit “Les Cabinotiers”
tasked with producing one of the most unique custom timepieces in line with the intensifying demands of
its clients whose loyalty to the watchmaking Maison is considered paramount.
This high-end watchmaking division was launched by Vacheron Constantin to offer the highest degree of
exclusivity to its clients keen to acquire unique pieces. As Christian Selmoni, heritage & style director at
Vacheron Constantin said, “We’re not offering personalization of existing watches in the collections of
Vacheron Constantin, which we assume can’t compare to the ultimate level of exclusivity that comes
from owning a unique timepiece that is brought to life at our atelier.”
Since its inception in 1755, the Maison’s work has been celebrated for producing exquisite timepieces
(not to mention métiers d’ art pieces) that have symbolized its foundation. This bespoke department is
best known for its work in the field of high watchmaking. “Even if unique pieces or made-to-order
timepieces exist in other Maisons, Les Cabinotiers by Vacheron Constantin is a specialized department
within the manufacture, with designers, engineers, watchmakers, and other specialists working
relentlessly in the creation and development of special pieces at the behest of its patrons,” he said.
Whatever bespoke timepieces the brilliant team of Les Cabinotiers creates, they’re never the same.
Depending upon many demands and orders of its clients for highly complicated watches often with
multiple complications, they can be of various expressions. “No wonder our decorative crafts are also
much appreciated, particularly hand engraving on watch cases and enameling for dials through various
enameling techniques such as champlevé enameling, cloisonné enameling, and miniature painting
enameling. Finally, our clients often get intrigued by the uniqueness of such timepieces fitted with grand
complications,” Selmoni said.
Blancpain too is a major player in terms of producing customized pieces for its elite clientele thanks to its
Le Brassus workshops where their dream watches are brought to life using various traditional methods
such as enameling, shakudo, damascening and marquetry.
At the end of the day, the custom timepieces created by these high-end brands are examples of
mechanical prowess and delicate artistry. In fact, these pieces are reserved for their top clients who
want their timepieces to be the best reflectors of some of their unforgettable moments in life. It’s no
surprise that Louis Moinet and H. Moser & Cie are also big contenders when it’s all about designing
intricately complex handcrafted watches.
Bovet’s bespoke watchmaking tradition
The heritage of Bovet is closely linked to producing bespoke watches. “Making bespoke timepieces
has been part of Bovet’s heritage since the founding of the House in 1822. Keeping this tradition
alive has been one of our primary missions since I took over in 2001. In fact, it represents 30% of our
overall production today. We love to work directly with collectors to make their timepiece dreams
come true by combining art and engineering for this very purpose,” said Pascal Raffy, the owner of
the Maison.
In today’s world, luxury is construed as something that only the privileged have the means to access
it. However, according to Raffy, it also means having something that no one else has. As he
explained, “For us, bespoke comes naturally because every timepiece goes through the human
touch at every step of the way. There are no assembly lines in Bovet since every component is
inspected, finished, and worked on by human hands – we even cut our own teeth in the wheels and
pinions, and we make the hairsprings and regulating organs – and every movement we make is put together by one watchmaker from start to finish. As a result, we welcome bespoke orders of any kind
because we can simply do it.”
Banking on their long-standing heritage
With a 267-year old heritage behind its back, Vacheron Constantin boasts of having made numerous
bespoke timepieces of grand complications for famous and passionate collectors in the past such as
James W. Packard, Bhupinder Singh (Maharaja of Patiala) and Henry Graves Jr. just to name a few.
“Today, bespoke timepieces created within Les Cabinotiers are the result of a client’s specific
request – designs, movements, functions, and materials – that our specialists will be able to bring to
life,” Selmoni said. “Speaking of our legacy in bespoke Vacheron Constantin watches ordered by the
clients, we could only quote ‘the sky’s the limit’ as we’re able to develop even a watchmaking
movement from scratch! Probably the best and most famous example in my view is the Reference
57260 from 2015, a bespoke pocket watch which took 8 years to develop and counts an astonishing
number of complications: 57 on the faces of the timepiece.”
Thus, he gladly admitted that it would be hard for him to pick his favorite timepiece of all the pieces
created within the workshop. Nevertheless, he still has quite high praise for a small series of unique
pieces whose dials were enameled with ‘the Grisaille’ technique based on the theme of wild animals.
“As part of it, the Elephant timepiece made in 2019 was particularly impressive,” he said.
Another challenge that Les Cabinotiers often comes across is how even its most complex pieces are
wearable. “This is one of the major challenges for the designers and the technical team. Some Les
Cabinotiers’ watches can incorporate more than 20 complications. So, obviously, we must conceive
watches that could still be comfortable to wear on the wrist despite their extreme complexities,”
Selmoni added.
Similarly, Bovet has been adhering to its own bespoke legacy in fine watchmaking from the start. Its
human element combined with the highest level of attention to detail is another strong area the
House is highly renowned for. “We can do anything from a special color of the sugar dials of the Miss
Audrey Sweet Art to the fully bespoke tourbillon movements, cases, and métiers d’art dials of the
Rolls-Royce collaboration, and everything in between. And, of course, all the engravings are
completely unique as they’re done meticulously by hand,” Raffy said.
Shedding further light on the Rolls-Royce partnership, he pointed out, “While working on the
tourbillon timepieces for Rolls-Royce, we were told to design a system that would allow them to be
worn on the wrist as well as mounted into the dashboard of the Boat Tail bespoke car. For this
project, we had to design the timepieces from a blank sheet of paper, integrating the patented
Amadeo system to match all the requirements of Rolls-Royce because they effectively became part
of the car itself.”
“I love all the bespoke watches produced by Bovet, but this one would certainly be close to my heart
as all the components that went into the making of the Rolls-Royce timepieces had to pass through
crash testing and it took us three years to accomplish this project as a result,” he said. “This is how
the bespoke world of Bovet tends to work where the rule of ‘no limits to innovation’ is revered and
strictly followed. And we’re always curious about projects involving miniature painting and hand
engraving since we’re experts in these two areas.”
Independent watchmakers are also on a roll
If we’re talking about bespoke watchmaking, then it would be incomplete without the inclusion of a
legendary watchmaker Kari Voutilainen whose supremacy in making bespoke timepieces is
undisputedly incredible. It’s the quality he is primarily concerned with while creating bespoke pieces
for his special clients. No wonder Voutilainen’s designed pieces speak volumes about his innovative
creativity that’s hard to beat. “The reason my brand stands out from the rest is because I keep my
production absolutely exclusive. I’m not interested in increasing the volume even though we could do much more. We simply do anything related to our watch creations in the workshop rather than purchasing parts from the outside. We do so in order to keep an eye on quality because we do produce this ultimate marvel by ourselves,” he said.
Since his bespoke timepieces are highly expensive and rare, it’s quite plausible that he gets orders
close to producing 70 pieces a year which, though, depends upon his willingness to accept how
many orders he wants to allow for in the first place.
However, for him, it simply means meeting his target first and foremost. And most of the watches
created by his brand are customized, mainly their dials. Voutilainen’s timepieces have real aesthetic
value designed with intricate, technical precision — all the more so thanks to his collaboration with
Kitamura, a living Japanese legend in lacquer art. “These bespoke pieces are a gateway to our
watchmaking paradise where ideas are being stamped on the real precious metals which ultimately
become finished products of absolute magnificence. All in all, our journey is a motivating one and
gives us immense satisfaction,” Voutilainen said. “On top of it, it becomes even more rewarding to
know that our work is gaining recognition as the trend of custom watches continues to grow. Most
importantly, we’re into it with a long-term view.”
Known for his superior bespoke timepieces in the industry, it was a foregone conclusion that various
luxury watch brands would call on Kari to render his intriguing touch of craftsmanship to their watch
collections. Sometime back, Zenith invited Kari and Philipps to work on the revival of its vintage
wristwatch with a modern outlook in mind: the Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire and only 10 pieces of
it were produced as part of this unforgettable collaboration. This caliber from the 1950s holds a
record of being the one and only movement in the history of watchmaking that has stood out against
all the odds, surpassing 230 chronometry tests. All these ten pieces come with black guilloche dials,
thus giving them a contemporary twist.
New bespoke watchmaking masters
While big luxury watch brands have their own bespoke watchmaking units which are quite popular
among watch enthusiasts, however, there is no denying that there are also small yet incredible
custom watchmaking brands which are offering something far better in comparison at a reasonable
price. Thus, they’ve been successful in making their presence felt internationally with amazing
examples. And Ematelier is one such highly qualified player when it comes to offering a myriad of
bespoke enamel dials that are unique in so many ways. For instance, Alex Landa, founder of
Ematelier said, “Our Grand Rue enamel dials stand as a testament to timeless beauty,
characterized by their unique luster and texture. These dials are meticulously handcrafted, requiring
a highly specialized skill set that is very rare and difficult to master. All indices and markings are
fired and melt into the surface of the base enamel; unless requested by the customers, we never
use surface inks. We take pride in being one of the few trusted companies globally capable of
producing such exceptionally coveted products.”
Since enamel is the cornerstone of Ematelier’s production, it’s sourced from suppliers worldwide,
allowing the brand to boast a broad selection tailored to various projects. “As part of this, a notable
achievement is our collaboration with the University of Toronto to develop proprietary enamels
based on our unique recipes, enhancing our ability to control temperature for optimal color and
surface quality. The metals used for the dial plates—gold, silver, copper—are thus readily sourced
locally,” he said.
What can’t be denied is that for smaller brands having an edge on big luxury watch houses is one of
the most indispensable things to work upon in the first place just to stand out from the herd. And
this is where Ematelier has certainly gained an upper hand. “Our clientele is discerning, often
possessing a deep understanding of enamel dials, including their history, creation process, and
associated costs. They expect a standard of quality that meets or exceeds that of renowned watch
brands, seeking the so-called authentic, traditionally made enamel dials, not ceramic porcelain,
lacquer, etc. These dials are distinguished by their meticulous application of multiple enamel layers on both sides of the metal plate, with each layer fired at 800°C, and scrutinized for color, surface
quality, and print precision,” Alex said. “With a myriad of choices in the area of bespoke dials we
offer to our clients, we are certainly their go-to-favorite brand.”
The level of complexity and time required in terms of creating bespoke enamel dials is entirely linked
to what the clients are really seeking at first hand. “A Grand Feu monochrome enamel dial takes
approximately 8 hours to create, while more intricate artistic enamel dials, such as miniature enamel
paintings or cloisonné, can require several weeks of work or even more,” he said.
Asked whether the bespoke watchmaking market is getting competitive day by day, Alex put it this
way, “In a specific market segment like ours, we know for sure that competition is less intense as this
sort of work requires significant time, energy, and a rare set of skills. The demand for unique dials is
increasingly strong, with our waiting list ranging from three to eighteen months, depending on the
dial’s complexity. While obtaining similar services from leading watch brands can be equally time-
consuming, it often remains prohibitively expensive for many watch collectors and connoisseurs.
More or less, this is where we fill the gaps with our extraordinary services.”
Likewise, Lundis Bleus is also known for its kiln-fired enamel dials that have their own supreme
quality to speak of. In fact, kiln-fired is a very ancient method of embellishing metals with finesse. One
of the best examples of it can be seen in its archive where there is a timepiece called “Ref.1120-EU
“Royal Blue”. By using transparent enamel, the independent brand has been able to create the
unique handmade texture beautifully engraved on the silver, thus retaining the bluish surface of the
ocean. On the whole, there is great excitement among watch connoisseurs to seek their services
without a second thought at all. “There is an appetite from collectors to get watches that have a soul,
something more than just pieces of metal put together. And we’re just good at it,” said Bastien
Vuilliomenet, the owner of Lundis Bleus.
According to Bastien, there are two types of customers his brand is primarily serving at the moment.
“I have seasoned collectors who already have impressive collections of watches from independent
artisans and/or big brands. Then, I also have those people who love and adore craftsmanship and
are more than willing to spend some money on a “real” watch. Both these groups usually want to
give some input so that their Lundis Bleus watches become personal, a bit unique and more
importantly, meaningful,” he said.
As the business of Lundis Bleus keeps growing, more horological wonders are expected to come
from the brand in the coming years. “I will be announcing an evolution of the current Ref.1120 very
soon. It will bring more horological variety to Lundis Bleus as a brand. And for the next few years, I
intend to plan to increase the level of complexity of a Lundis Bleus watch in every aspect. In other
words, I will up my game, continue to improve my skills and create more and more sophisticated
little treasures,” he said.
The future of bespoke watchmaking is as bright as ever
In the past too, there was no shortage of famous clients with a vast interest in ordering bespoke timepieces
for themselves. And now its present and future are both secure as today’s young consumers are no less
passionate about bespoke pieces as part of their watch collecting hobby. As Selmoni put it this way, “Since
made-to-order creations represent the ultimate luxury and exclusivity, bespoke watches for avid collectors
and watch lovers will certainly be the highest expression of haute horlogerie. So we’re devoted to fulfill the
desires of our most demanding clients for their ultimate expressions in watchmaking. Without a doubt, Les
Cabinotiers will remain relevant in the future as it’s today.”
Similarly, sounding upbeat about Bovet’s future in the making of bespoke timepieces for the next 200
years, Raffy said, “For this to continue as it has been, we also depend heavily on our retailers who
are the best in the world and have amazing relationships with their collectors. They’re in a perfect
position to educate them regarding Bovet’s bespoke capabilities.”
In recent years, two other big names in the watch industry Armin Strom and Carl F. Bucherer have
joined in with their separate bespoke watchmaking units as they’re serious about meeting the individual demands on a large scale. In fact, ever since Armin Strom got into the business of watchmaking, it has
always championed the concept of designing bespoke timepieces looking at the high demands for such
custom services. So the brand launched a digital watch configurator in 2017, giving direct access to
individuals to personalize their watches.
Moving along the same lines, Carl F. Bucherer unveiled its own online CFB Mastery Lab this year to
broaden the scope of individualization with no holds barred. “Doing it secretly for so long gave us the
motivation to take this bespoke program forward internationally. We visited various places straightaway
from the brand’s home in Lucerne to Geneva and Zurich in Switzerland, then to Munich, London, New
York, Paris, Costa Mesa, California in order to show our expertise in this particular field with the help of
our CFB Mastery Lab and to our surprise, it was extremely well-received,” said Renato Bonina, CSO at
Carl F. Bucherer. “I would like to add one very important point that while we’re offering individualization
services, this comes with strict conditions. Our focus would rather be on providing flawless finishes than
making any changes to movements. However, we’re open to discussing whatever wishes our
customers may have regarding watch designs since they will be directly involved in the personalization
venture.”
With the program offering 1000 different combinations, customers can select what material they want
to be used for the case and dial where the possibilities are limitless. They can even go for special
colored parts that the movements should be made of, including straps of their liking. “We’ve
designed a custom watch face for one of our customers displaying lyrics from the Swiss national
anthem in a phosphorescent finish. We’ve also created meteorite dials for timepieces and this is a
time-consuming process,” he said.
The CFB’s watch customization services are tailored for those customers that purchase timepieces
featuring the brand’s peripheral technology such as its Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, Manero
or Heritage Tourbillon Double Peripheral or Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar among others.
Interestingly, Piaget also has its feet in the world of designing bespoke timepieces thanks to the
amazing features of its “Infinitely Personal” configuration program which the brand offers on just two
of its models—the Altiplano Ultimate Concept and the Altiplano Tourbillon. Piaget’s watch lovers can
avail this facility at the brand’s boutiques across the world. Or for that matter, H. Moser & Cie also
takes orders for creating custom pieces which are genuinely high-end.
In a nutshell, the interest towards personalization in the watch industry will only grow more intense
as the quest for seeking bespoke luxury among watch lovers is an endless one. After all, making
items extremely personal is what real luxury is all about.
Oracle Time