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Ember Rocket

After spotting some rather fetching prototypes back in late 2024, Ember’s Rocket is finally ready for launch and, with a few subtle design tweaks, the production version’s looking brighter and better than ever. The bead-blasted, multi-faceted case has more wrist presence than its 40mm measurements suggest, while the mix of funky colours and sandwich-style cut-outs around the periphery ensure it’s as bright at night as during the day. It’s also almost unfairly tempting, priced as it is at £359, powered by a workhorse Seiko automatic movement. Not a bad debut at all.

More details at Ember.

Toledano & Chan B/1.2

The sophomore album can always be a bit tricky, but Toledano & Chan’s follow-up to the insanely successful B/1 amps up those brutalist angles to new degrees. While the case is the same industrially cool beast as the original, the dial has been changed to mother-of-pearl rather than lapis, equally semi-precious. The bigger change, however, is the crystal, which rather than being flush, is instead an almost prismatic piece of sapphire. There was already nothing quite like the B/1; now it’s doubtful there ever will be.

More details at Toledano & Chan.

Aeronom Aero One Big Panda

Forget all those vintage-style Daytonaesque Panda chronographs living off Paul Newman hype. With their industrially machined planes and asymmetrical look, Aeronom’s take on the high contrast colourway is a must-have for any would-be engineer. Throw in some hand-written numerals on the panoramic date window and you have the ingredients of a classic racing chronograph reformulated into something much, much cooler. Backed by a Miyota movement, it’s also slightly more affordable than your standard Paul Newman. But then, so’s my mortgage.

More details at Aeronom.

Belhamel Contra A39 Charcoal Blue

It’s hard to build a modern dive watch without leaning on what the Submariner or Seamaster did before – at least without adding a second crown – but Belhamel’s Contra A39 does an enviable job of just that. With its minimalist steel rotating dive bezel and 39mm steel case it borders on the cooly utilitarian, while flashes of orange elevate the otherwise pared-back dark (but not navy) blue of the dial. With professional standard 300m water resistance, it’s rugged, accessible and a little bit sexy.

More details at Belhamel.

Wayforth Voyager

Fun, practical adventure watches are one of the things the microbrand world has no shortage of, so standing out among that eclectic crowd of ruggedly handsome timepieces isn’t easy. Canadian brand Wayforth does so by combining two elements that you don’t normally see in one watch: a chronograph and a second time zone. The bi-compax Mechaquartz chronograph is relatively straightforward, complete with a tachymeter bezel, but the integration of the second time zone is a masterstroke. Rather than a GMT hand, Wayforth have instead added a 12-hour rotating inner bezel, operable via the 10 o’clock crown. That means it’s a clear and easily readable as you could want from a chronograph, but with the added functionality of a travel watch. The result is the perfect watch for clocking your speed across timezones.

More details at Wayforth.

DeMarco The Pistachio Green Chronograph

While we’re not huge proponents of quartz here at Oracle Time, there’s a time and place for everything – such as DeMarco’s debut chronograph. The angular grip to the rotating bezel, the pump chronograph pushers, and the gorgeous pistachio green dial (a colour I fell in love with courtesy of Breitling) mean there’s a lot to love here. As a mechaquartz watch, it’s that perfectly practical mix of electronic accuracy powering a mechanical complication and, priced at (for now) just $344, it’s an incredibly tempting piece of colourful wrist real estate.

More details at DeMarco.

DUG Purist

As a rule, you can expect Glashutte-based brands to come at a bit of a premium. It is, after all, the home of Lange & Sohne, Moritz Grossman, Glashutte Original, and more. And yet the DUG Purist offers something built in that cradle of Saxon watchmaking at under £800. Granted, that’s largely down to a Sellita-based movement, but in terms of style the Purist hits that utilitarian nail on the head, especially in the Typ 1 variant. Streamlined and eminently readable with a cool, three-stick 12 o’clock marker and a vintage fluted crown, it’s a good-looking everyday wearer for a well-priced taste of Germanic style.

More details at DUG.

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If you’ve ever come across the history of American watch brand Ball then you also know the history of early railroad watches. Essentially, in the early days of locomotion there were no timekeeping standards on board trains, with drivers reliant on their personal watches – unfortunately there was an incident when an unreliable watch resulted in a crash between two trains. In an attempt to avoid such disasters in future, the concept of railroad watches emerged. Timepieces tested and approved for use on railways due to their good accuracy. While Ball were over in America, Seiko were revolutionising the railroad watch in Japan. Celebrating this history is the Seiko Presage Craftsmanship in Enamel with Roman Numerals.

First of all, Seiko Presage Craftsmanship in Enamel with Roman Numerals is one hell of a name for a watch. Sure, it’s accurate but come on Seiko, where’s a little imagination to make it more exciting and more manageable to say. Why not take a leaf from Moser’s book and name it after a train like the Streamliner. Encyclopaedic names aside, it’s a really nice watch. It rides the line between dress and tool watch, featuring a refined dial made from enamel while also being inspired by professional railroad watches. It’s specifically based on the Timekeeper, a pocket watch from 1895, their first officially designated railroad watch.

The hybrid nature of the design is reflected in the watch’s dimensions. You’d expect a classic dress watch to be around 37mm, like the Presage Laurel from a few years ago, but the Presage Craftsmanship in Enamel with Roman Numerals is 40.2mm. That’s surprisingly big for a model inspired by vintage design but at the same time large enough to provide good legibility, which is vital when precise timing is important. It’s the same logic as to why dive watches and chronographs tend to be bigger, just applied to the railways instead.

Focussing in on the dial, it has the smooth, white surface of enamel, which provides excellent contrast to the black railway minute track and titular Roman numeral hour markers. It’s worth noting that here the term railway refers to the physical appearance of the scale looking like the train tracks, rather than having some secret purpose that makes it better for use on the railways. The central hour, minute and seconds hands are blue to add a spot of colour as is the hand on the 24-hour subdial at 6 o’clock.

It makes for a very refined display with the feel of an early 20^th century design. It’s not quite Art Deco but it’s not far off either if you slapped it in a rectangular case. Beneath the surface of the watch is the 6R5H automatic calibre with 72-hour power reserve, one of Seiko’s top movements. Three-day power reserves hit the sweet spot of being weekend proof, meaning you can put it down on Friday evening and it’ll still be ticking on Monday morning – great for that daily commute after a few days relaxing.

The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship in Enamel with Roman Numerals is priced at £1,280. Sure, that’s a bit pricier than the £400 price tags we’re used to seeing from Seiko but given this is a Craftsmanship model and it houses one of their top movements, that seems like great value. I’m also a sucker for an old-fashioned railway so the idea of a railroad watch appeals.

More details at Seiko Boutique.

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As reported at the end of 2024 by Japanese fan site Great G-Shock World, production of the G-Shock GX-56TU-1A5 (pictured above right) has been discontinued. The GX56TU-1A5 ($150) is now sold out in the U.S. at casio.com/us and most other authorized dealers, and is scheduled to be removed from the U.S. catalog soon. There are […]

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Grand Seiko is turning 65 this year, having first emerged in 1960 with a determination to push Japanese horology further than ever before. I think it’s safe to say that across the past 65 years they have achieved that goal and more with their cutting-edge use of textured dials and mechanical innovations including industry leading hi-beat and spring drive movements. In celebration of their anniversary, they’ve leant into both those factors with the launch of the Grand Seiko ‘Mountainscape’ Hi-Beat 65^th Anniversary Limited Edition.

Starting with the case, the ‘Mountainscape’ is part of the Evolution 9 series, which is Grand Seiko’s sportiest collection. That means it measures 40mm in diameter with sharp, facetted lugs and a bevelled edge to the round case. It’s the same case as used on other popular models like the White Birch in steel.

The similarities to the White Birch continue to the Grand Seiko ‘Mountainscape’ Hi-Beat 65^th Anniversary Limited Edition’s dial. It has a similar pitted, engraved texture to it with grooved lines, but instead of being fully vertical, it’s radial like sunray brushing. It’s a very attractive pattern, especially in the pale blue colour GS have used, inspired by the snow-capped peaks of mountains visible from Grand Seiko’s studio in Shizukuishi.

I do like the pattern, but, to me it doesn’t quite reach the same levels of artistry as the White Birch or Snowflake. Those watches look like you’ve taken a piece of nature and put them into a watch – a piece of tree bark or an actual snowdrift. Here, the pattern is more a symbolic representation of a mountain landslide rather than an actual depiction of one. It’s a nit-picky observation but one that feels relevant when talking about Grand Seiko. At an objective level though, the skill and execution of the ‘Mountainscape’ is just as flawless as those other watches.

As mentioned in the introduction, the other signature Grand Seiko element outside their exceptional dials are their advanced movements. The ‘Mountainscape’ Hi-Beat 65^th Anniversary Limited Edition houses the 9SA5 hi-beat automatic, which has a 5Hz frequency (equivalent to 36,000 beats per minute as noted by the dial inscription) and an 80-hour power reserve. The benefit of such a high frequency is improved accuracy and the 9SA5 has a deviation of just +5/-3 seconds per day. It’s visible through the exhibition caseback where you can see its stylish striped finishing.

In terms of pricing and availability, it’s limited to 1,000 pieces globally at a price of £9,500. That’s £550 higher than the White Birch, which makes sense due to the exclusivity of it being an anniversary limited edition. It’s a fitting tribute to 65 years of one of Japan’s premier watchmakers, showcasing the technical elements of watch design that have made them one of the closest rivals to Switzerland’s prestige houses.

More details at Grand Seiko.

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It’s not always clear which of the newest G-Shock releases out of Japan will eventually make their way to the United States, but there is now more clarity for models that were released in Japan in January. The following models are confirmed to be coming to the U.S. soon. This list does not include the […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

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The G-Shock DWE5600UD-1 collaboration with Los Angeles sneaker boutique and apparel brand Undefeated is coming soon to the U.S. and Mexico. The limited edition watch has a minimalist stealth black style with Undefeated and Casio logos on the face and a green-tinted LCD display. The LED backlight is tinted red and displays the Undefeated five-stripe […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

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We recently noticed that Senator Ted Budd of North Carolina frequently wears a G-Shock Mudmaster GG1000-1A5 watch. It’s not the only watch he wears, but the 53-year-old Republican senator is often seen wearing it during official events over the past few years, including some Senate hearings. The senator does not have a military background, but […]

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  (Auto-translated English subtitles/CC available in video settings.) Limited edition G-Shock MTG-B2000 models have been some of the more popular high-end G-Shock watches over the years, and the MTG-B2000YST-1A is an example of how the MTG-B2000 base can utilize a variety of colors, materials, and finishes to create a unique style. This model looks better […]

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Wristclassics Zenith El Primero

A huge part of the allure of vintage watches, beyond the cool styles of bygone eras of design, are the deeply personal stories they tell. These stories are at the core of what Wristclassics focuses on as a vintage watch dealer. They only stock watches with unique hallmarks and distinct features that make them stand out in the crowd. For example, this Zenith El Primero Ref. A386 MK3 from 1973 with the signature three colour tricompax chronograph display in a case measuring a svelte 38mm.

Available at Wristclassics.

Primitive Haus Timekeeper Type-A, $369 (approx. £280)

Finding what inspires you is always the foundation of a good microbrand and Primitive Haus are clear on where their inspirations lie. Influenced by the German minimalist movement spearheaded by Bauhaus, they aim to bring colourful watches to life that blend style and function seamlessly. Recently with the TimeKeeper Type-A they’ve been exploring fresh colours and designs, such as fumé blue, vibrant purple, and a gorgeous dimple dial variant that looks like freshly fallen snow. They house the Miyota 82S5 with 42-hour power reserve.

Available at Primitive Haus.

Zanuti GMT, £342

If you’re going to invest in an homage watch, you may as well look for something with quality and class. Zanuti produce an extensive range of homage watches that capture the styles and vibes of some of the world’s most famous watches at a fraction of the price. The GMT, for example, features a colourful two-tone GMT bezel available in numerous iconic colourways like brown and black or red and blue. It’s also available housing either a quartz or automatic movement, giving you plenty of choice as a collector.

Available at Zanuti.

Wayforth Voyager, £314

Wayforth’s Voyager is designed to keep up with you on your travels wherever they may take you. In that endeavour, it’s equipped with a chronograph function and a dual time zone display. A chronograph can be used to calculate your speed or even distance travelled with a quick calculation while the dual time display, consisting of an inner rotating bezel with 12-hour scale, lets you track local time and home time while globetrotting. There are eight colours to choose from, each housing the Seiko VK64 meca-quartz movement.

Available at Wayforth.

Héron Marinor Atlantic Blue, £495

The Héron Marinor Atlantic Blue is a gorgeous dive watch with a 39mm diameter hardened steel case and 300m water resistance, which is outstanding for a mechanical watch this accessible. The style, with a domed sapphire bezel and large, lumed hour markers draws inspiration from legendary dive watches of the 20th century, but at a much more approachable price point. Powering the watch is the Miyota 9039, one of the Japanese manufacture’s premium movements with a 42-hour power reserve.

Available at Héron.

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If the recent storms are any indication the UK is still well and truly in the throes of winter. However, on the other side of the world in Japan Grand Seiko have said screw you winter, let’s look forward to the year ahead and celebrate summer and autumn. That message is loud and clear thanks to the new Grand Seiko 62GS ‘Rikka’ SBGH351 and 62GS ‘Shubun’ SBGH353 watches with updated cases.

I say updated cases because the Rikka and Shubun were originally released as part of a US exclusive quartet. These new models are replacements to those old versions and are available globally instead of just stateside. Focussing back on the cases, the update I’m referring to is the fact they’re now presented in Grand Seiko’s Ever Brilliant Steel instead of titanium. This change allows for a higher lustre to the Zaratsu polished surfaces as steel typically has a lighter silver colour to it than the grey of titanium. Both cases measure 40mm in diameter with the 62GS collection’s signature wide, flat arcing shape from lug to lug.

Right, now on to the meat and potatoes of any Grand Seiko launch, the dials. First up is Rikka, named after the seventh sekki (Japanese micro-season) of the year, which starts in May. This is the transitional micro-season between spring and summer where early summer breezes blow across strong and healthy plants. Which is why it has a rich green dial finished with a wavy texture that evokes a sense of wind over leaves.

Second is the 62GS Shubun, named for the 16^th sekki and the autumn equinox. While we’re more familiar with the summer equinox, the longest day of the year and the winter equinox, the shortest day of the year, the autumn equinox is less talked about. It’s when day and night are of equal lengths. As such, the Shubun has a golden seconds hand like the sun and a dark blue dial like the night sky.

Both models house the calibre 98S5 with automatic winding and a 55-hour power reserve. They also have hi-beat frequencies of 36,000 vph providing great accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day. In addition to sharing a movement, the 62GS Rikka and 62GS Shubun also share a price of £6,350, which is right in the pocket of the 62GS collection that runs from £5,900-£7,050. It might still be winter but these watches have me yearning for longer days already.

More details at Grand Seiko.

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