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American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones founded the “International Watch Co.” in Schaffhausen, in 1868, a company better known today as IWC. International is the operative word because he brought together progressive American production techniques with the skilled craftsmanship of traditional Swiss watchmakers. However, if you’re an IWC rookie, telling your Pilot’s from your Big Pilot’s or your Portugieser from your Portofino can be tricky. Here’s the Oracle Time beginner’s guide to every IWC model.

Pilot’s Watches

IWC’s most famous and widely lauded family of watches are their Pilot’s watches. Developed in the 1930s and 40s, they helped to define the primary features of aviation timepieces for civilians and in the military. Their unrivalled cool factor and heritage makes them a collector’s dream, earning themselves a closely following fanbase.

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Portugieser

IWC’s Portugieser collection first appeared in the 1930s, when a pair of Portuguese gentlemen asked for a wristwatch that housed a large pocket watch movement. In order to accommodate the movement, the watch itself had to be larger than any dress watch IWC produced at the time and arguably helped to start the trend towards the larger timepieces we see today.

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Portofino

IWC’s Portofino collection shares some similarities to the Portugieser in that it’s also inspired by vintage pocket watches and has signature feuille hands. However, the collection broadly focuses on a more refined and elegant appearance inspired by the warmth of the Mediterranean. The collection’s name comes from Portofino, a painfully beautiful port on the Italian coast near Genoa.

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Ingenieur

The Ingenieur is one the most commonly forgotten about and underrated collections in IWC’s stable of watches. At least, that used to be the case until IWC gave it a full revamp in 2023 and brought it back into the limelight where it belongs. The Ingenieur was originally designed for IWC by legendary watchmaker Gerald Genta, giving it the same pedigree as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or the Patek Philippe Nautilus.

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Aquatimer

IWC are best known for their pilot’s watches but that doesn’t mean they haven’t also been producing diving watches for a long time as well. Their dive watch collection, the Aquatimer, is over 50 years old.

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Discontinued Watches

Da Vinci

IWC’s Da Vinci collection is one of their fastest evolving, a place where they explore more daring concepts and non-traditional designs, drawing inspiration from Leonardo da Vinci’s works. In the past, they’ve experimented with tonneau cases and even quartz mechanisms. Today, it remains a melting pot of concepts, tending to favour feminine aesthetics with a mix of jewels and high complications.

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Watchmaking and Geneva, you simply cannot have one without the other. As a city, it carries its horological legacy on its sleeve. Turn the cobblestone corners of the Old Town and Urwerk’s HQ is nestled on the Place du Bourg-de-Four, just down the road from AkriviA. Look up when meandering around Plainpalais, and you’ll stumble upon the world-famous Patek Philippe Museum. Leave the Mandarin Oriental, and you’ll be a stone’s throw away from Andersen Genève’s home. This city bleeds watchmaking, and for Svend Andersen, it’s where he founded his eponymous manufacture in 1980.

While many know the brand’s watches today for their mastery of complications paired with traditionally coded, yet unique executions born out of a labour of love, when Svend’s independent journey began, international collectors wanted him to make one watch: a world timer.

Svend Andersen

40 years ago, the concept of an ‘independent watchmaker’ of any notable significance was in its infancy, practically unheard of. As an industry, watchmaking was still actively licking its wounds caused by the disruptive arrival of battery-powered watches. At scale, the luxury Swiss watch industry was transforming, shifting from being the zeitgeist to flirting with being on the brink of relevance. That was until the concept of luxury was modernised with steel watches and bold new sporty references. This evolution appealed to a new generation, resulting in the maturing of watch collecting in the 1990s.

At the even higher, more nuanced end of the spectrum, talented watchmakers behind many legacy brands’ successes took their talent under a new roof: one with their name above the door. Think Daniel Roth, F.P. Journe, Franck Muller, and Svend Andersen.

A tribute to Louis Cottier, 24 18k yellow gold Communication world timers were originally produced in 1989

Called the Communication, Svend’s first watch was sold in 1989 by subscription to existing Italian and German clients of Svend’s pocket watch case-making operation. With only 24 examples, the watch is an 18k yellow gold world timer and a tribute to Louis Cottier, the father of the world timer, a complication Svend spent a lot of time working on while at Patek Philippe.

Upon selling all 24 models, to meet the number of requests, Andersen Genève produced approximately 50 to 100 more examples of the Communication but now with teardrop lugs, paying homage to the Patek 1415 – yet another watch Svend was familiar with during his Patek tenure. Both Communication edition cases are beautifully crafted, and there’s a very good reason for that: they were produced by legendary case maker Jean-Pierre Hagmann, with Andersen being Hagmann’s first-ever client.

Christopher Columbus with Chinese lacquered dial displaying the Atlantic Ocean with the route of Columbus’ first voyage in 1492

This initiated a run of more world timers, with 500 examples of a piece created in 1992 to celebrate the anniversary of Christopher Columbus’s voyage. To underscore how talented Svend is, the Mundus World Time of 1994 achieved the world record as the thinnest world time watch ever produced thanks to the world time module he developed – a record it still holds today at 4.2mm.

Svend’s story could fill this issue with a grand legacy in watchmaking over the decades. Having been born in Denmark in 1942, working at Patek for nearly 10 years, and going on to launch not only one of the first independent watchmakers but still one of the most desirable, his life has been dedicated to this craft.

Adersen Genève Mundus World Time

He first made headlines in 1969 at the age of 27 debuting a side project called The Bottle Clock. This saw him place a working clock within a bottle despite the opening only being 18mm in width. An achievement that blew minds, it took five months to complete and earned him the moniker of Watchmaker of the Impossible, spotlighting his watchmaking.

Models have been offered for sale, with at most 124 ever being produced, the Christopher Columbus is more regularly seen. Having first-hand experience in repairing and assembling the last of the Louis Cottier modules Patek had in stock, the influences are apparent from the case, dial proportions, hands, and module architecture.

35mm in yellow gold, pink gold, or platinum, the watch carries a Chinese lacquered dial displaying the Atlantic Ocean with the route of Columbus’ first voyage in 1492. The calibre powering these pieces is the automatic Piguet 951, but it’s fitted with the complete bespoke world time module developed by Svend. This module measures just 0.9mm thick; including the dial.

Andersen Genève x Asprey Worldtime

Andersen Genève today bridges that gap between traditionality and proprietary styling that makes them simply irresistible. Which is why models like the Christopher Columbus stand out further with extremely classic styling. Compared to the 38mm cases they produce today, the mid-sized Christopher Columbus feels charmingly unassuming.

And in 2025, on the 45th anniversary of the original Communication, it’s fair to say these early world timers are just as relevant and appealing today.

Between leaving Patek, making pocket watch cases, and beginning his own manufacture, in 1985 Svend also found time to establish a community for independent watchmakers. The AHCI focuses on preserving tradition where it deems those working independently as the ‘guardians of these traditions’ in the face of the growing big brands and conglomerates.

Over the years, membership has been extended to the likes of George Daniels, Kari Voutilainen, F.P. Journe, Philippe Dufour, Raúl Pagès, Vianney Halter, Felix Baumgartner, and Andreas Strehler.

Andersen Genève’s output continues to be very limited and bespoke – for context, only 1,300 Andersen watches have ever been made.

More details at Andersen Genève.

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Sustainability has long been an important point of discussion in the watch industry. With global supply chains and precious materials seeing frequent use alongside leather straps (gold mines aren’t exactly environmentally friendly), it’s a discussion we mustn’t shy away from. Detrash, members of the British Alliance of Watch and Clock Makers, are placing these environmental ethical concerns front and centre with their Cali – Melting Ice Cap Blue limited edition.

As the name suggests, the watch is designed to raise awareness of global climate change and the imminent natural disaster of the melting ice caps. For that reason, it features an ice blue dial with a grained texture, highlighting the damage we’re doing to our planet. It also has dark blue hour markers coated with Super-LumiNova for low light legibility, a classic feature of dive watches designed for use in and around the water. Those hour markers are arranged in a California style display that has Roman numerals in the top half of the display and Arabic in the lower half, making it instantly easy to read the time no matter the orientation of the watch.

While raising awareness for good causes like sustainability is all well and good, it would be highly hypocritical to do so while damaging the environment. So, the 41mm case of the Cali – Melting Ice Cap Blue is produced from 80% recycled steel and is presented on a #tide recycled ocean plastic strap. On top of that, Detrash are members of the 1% For the Planet initiative, where 1% of their annual revenue goes towards environmental advocacy and conservation programs.

Powering the Detrash Cali – Melting Ice Cap Blue is the Seiko NH35 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve and -20/+40 seconds per day accuracy. It’s a ubiquitous calibre that’s used across wide swathes of the watch industry due to its easy availability, solid value and convenience of repair. That value means the watch has a price of just £375, so the entry level to support Detrash and their environmental cause is very low.

With a 200m water resistance rating and clean dive watch design, £375 is pretty amazing value in its own right. As a limited edition of 100 pieces, there’s also an exclusivity to the watch that feels appropriate for the environmental message it’s trying to spread. Just like the ice caps, when it’s gone, it’s gone.

More details at Detrash.

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For many brands Morgan Stanley’s annual Swiss watch industry report isn’t comfortable reading after several turbulent years. However, if you’re Tag Heuer you’re probably quite pleased with yourself. The report shows Tag’s estimated turnover growing by around 10%, elevating them from 15th (2023) in the watch brand league table to 11th in 2024. This growth comes at a time when Tag have been changing things up, releasing high complication timepieces with high complication price tags. These new Tag Heuer complication watches are providing a different offering for the brand and it seems to be having a positive impact.

Tag Heuer Formula 1 Collection

Ask the average watch enthusiast to describe Tag Heuer and you can expect ‘entry level’, ‘affordable luxury’ and other variations on this theme. This perception of Tag Heuer is linked closely to the price and value they’ve been able to offer. Where TAG cornered the market was with the younger demographic. An 18th birthday present, graduation gift or first paycheck. If you wanted a watch for such an occasion you went to Tag Heuer. With their Formula 1 collection, even today, quartz models start at just over £1,300 on a leather strap. And if you’re not an F1 fan, an automatic Aquaracer will cost you £3,000. Tudor’s Black Bay collections are an alternative to the Aquaracer but not much else comes close from other powerhouse Swiss watch brands.

Whilst these models are the stalwart of the collection the brand has always played around with high horology complications. However, previously these high complication pieces were few and far between. In 2013, they released the Tag Heuer MikroPendulumS, a watch that uses a magnetic pendulum system in place of a hairspring and came accompanied by two tourbillons. This watch along with others that contained the Mikro name aren’t full production watches, more like concepts made in tiny quantities for Tag’s most prestigious clients.

Tag Heuer Monaco V4

The Tag Heuer Monaco V4 Tourbillon is a similar story. It is an incredibly complex watch that uses belts to connect and turn gears. Similar to how the chain moves gears on a bicycle. Perfecting the belt system took over 5 years and the V4 Tourbillon was produced in just 50 pieces priced at $170,000 (approx £127,000). Tag has always produced high horology pieces but they’ve often been R&D type projects rather than the mainstream catalogue. That seems to have shifted over the last few years.

Tag Heuer Formula 1 X Mario Kart Chronograph Tourbillon Limited Edition

In 2022, TAG surprised us all with the Mario Kart Formula 1 Chronograph Tourbillon. The partially open worked dial is paired with an exhibition case back, however, all of that is secondary to the tourbillon cage. Here you’ll find a miniature Mario, Bullet Bill and a blue shell attached to the rotating tourbillon. The Mario Kart collab was a fun introduction of a production series tourbillon. Whilst still limited, 250 pieces is a little more accessible, the price tag of $25,600 was considerably less than previous Tag Heuer complications of this standard. From this point forward Tag Heuer have produced a steady cadence of high horology releases.

Over the next couple of years the tourbillon pieces kept on coming with exotic pieces like the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Polychrome which featured a carbon fibre bezel and PVD coated rainbow effect dial. Earlier this year Tag unveiled a new purple dial tourbillon for the Carrera Glassbox range. A little more subtle than some of the others, (or at least as subtle as a purple tourbillon can be), the smokey purple dial fits inside a 42mm case and is paired with a traditional black leather perforated racing strap.

Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Polychrome

It’s not just been tourbillons that Tag have been thrusting upon the watch world. More advanced chronographs have also been given the spotlight, such as the Monza Flyback Chronometer, the perfect racing watch. The flyback function doesn’t stop the chronograph once it’s reset, instead it simply starts over again. Ideal for measuring lap times. More complex than a standard chronograph, the Monza Flyback was skeletonised and encased in carbon fibre.

Not satisfied with a flyback feature, 2024 saw the introduction of the Tag Heuer Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph. The split second is one of the most complex of chronographs and it first reared its head as a one-off for the 2023 Only Watch auction. A year later Tag added the Monaco Split Second to the catalogue in two colour variants. One in red, the other in blue. The blue version is the most striking with its light blue bridges which are the focal point of the open worked dial. At CHF165,000 (approx. £142,750) it’s by far the most expensive Monaco in the collection.

Tag Heuer Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph F1

This year’s Watches & Wonders event saw the introduction of a new Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph in a 41mm white ceramic case. Underneath the sapphire crystal is a red translucent dial which frames the chronograph subdials and, for F1 fans, contains the text ‘LIGHTS OUT & AWAY WE GO’. Priced similarly to the previous split second chrono, these watches are far removed from the £1,300 Formula 1 and £3,000 Aquaracer where we started.

In my mind there’s no question that Tag Heuer are trending towards more complicated and innovative watches as part of their catalogue. In the last 5 years we’ve seen tourbillons, split second chronographs, ceramic cases, carbon fibre and open worked dials. Tag Heuer complications might not be new but we aren’t used to seeing them this frequently or as part of the main collection. It makes me excited to see what Tag Heuer does next. Chiming complication?

More details at Tag Heuer.

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Breguet are celebrating their 250^th anniversary this year, which is a seriously impressive feat of longevity for any modern brand, across any industry. It was in 1775 that Abraham-Louis Breguet established his workshop at the Quai de l’Horloge on the Ile de la Cité, Paris. To celebrate the occasion, they’ve launched the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025.

Since 1775 Breguet has undergone many shifts and changes in their design philosophy. Over the years they’ve tackling concepts of haute horology, military watches and dress watches. In recent times their designs have become more and more extreme in terms of focussing on extreme finishing and the peak of haute horology with creations like the Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante and the Golden Classique Double Tourbillon. For 2025, another shift is on the way under the guidance of their new CEO Gregory Kissling, pushing them in a slightly different direction.

This new direction is all about modernisation while paying tribute to the brand’s extensive heritage. For example, Breguet has a new logo that’s much cleaner and more legible, though they are retaining the traditional cursive design on the dials of the actual watches. New packaging that feels fresh but that’s actually inspired by vintage pocket watch packaging. It’s essentially a soft rebrand of the entire company, tied into the 250^th anniversary celebrations.

Speaking of which, let’s turn our attention to the new Classique Souscription 2025. The elements of that rebrand are immediately apparent in this new watch. It’s based on a 1796 Souscription pocket watch, so pays tribute to the brand’s history, but features modernised elements such as a brand-new case. It measures 40mm in diameter in Breguet gold, a new proprietary alloy made from 75% gold and then a combination of silver, copper and palladium. According to Breguet its blond colour is less intense than traditional yellow gold without being quite so pink as rose gold, sitting somewhere between the two. Though to my eye it leans comfortably towards yellow.

In developing this new alloy, Breguet had several goals. First and foremost, it’s more durable than other types of gold, especially in terms of retaining its purity and colour without tarnishing. They also wanted to ensure that it’s suitable for their diverse array of finishing techniques such as brushing, polishing and guilloché. To showcase this, the flanks of the Souscription 2025 have done away with the traditional Classique fluted caseband in order to display the immaculate brushing. There’s also a new style of guilloché called Quai de l’Horloge around the edge of the caseback like a woven ribbon.

For the dial, it’s virtually a direct lift from the original 1796 Souscription pocket watch. Meaning it’s white with a single hand display and Breguet numerals. To achieve the stark contrast they’ve used white grand feu enamel for the base and the numerals and Breguet logo are then in black enamel as well. There’s also a secret engraving above the 6 o’clock numeral that reads Souscription No. 250 Breguet, which is a sign authenticity that was used in the early day of Breguet designs. Around the periphery of the display is a railway track style hour and minute display – the 60 minutes of each hour being shown as the progression between each hour numeral, as is the style of single hand watches.

Powering the display is a new movement, the VS00, which again is the perfect blend of modern and heritage elements. It’s made from brass to match the tone of the Breguet gold case and features an architecture heavily inspired by the original movement from the pocket watch. However, it features a modern Nivachron hairspring with Breguet overcoil for reliable accuracy and anti-magnetic properties. It also has a 4-day power reserve via a single barrel with manual winding.

As is always the case with Breguet, it’s finished immaculately. The mainplate has a shot-blast finish giving it a slightly frosted, grainy look. The central ratchet wheel bears an engraving in A-L Breguet’s handwriting with the text taken from the original promotional pamphlet for the Souscription pocket watch. Souscription, if you’ve been wondering, means subscription and is a method of retailing watches that’s most commonly used by independent watchmakers these days. It essentially means the watches are made to order with an initial deposit that the watchmaker uses to fund the production of the actual watch prior to final payment when the watch is finished.

The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 exemplifies the new direction Breguet is taking, with a focus on refinement, traditional heritage designs and modern techniques. It’s not a complete identity change as those have always been core tenets of the brand, instead serving as more of a fresh spritz and slight facelift. Something any 250-year-old would need. While it is an anniversary edition, it’s non-limited at a price of £45,700. Which makes sense for a gold wristwatch with a full enamel dial and high spec movement.

More details at Breguet.

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Of all the microbrands to have blown up over the last five years, few have struck a chord quite as soundly as Furlan Marri. From their initial batch of handsome, accessible, vintage-inspired watches to the latest, painfully cool Disco Volante models – via a game-changing perpetual calendar – they’ve proven that it’s all been a lot more than hype.

So, we took the opportunity to talk to the Geneva-based Swiss half of the partnership, Andrea Furlan about cars, podcasts and a long weekend in the Swiss mountains.

What, other than a watch, is at the top of your wish list?

A Porsche 993 4S or Turbo would be a dream as I started to design cars when I was very young. I even did all my high school in German to go to Pforzheim Design University with the ambition of becoming an automotive designer. However, the fascination with watches took over, and my career path shifted entirely towards watch design.

A recent find or discovery?

A blown-glass vase from Murano, Italy, made by Flavio Poli. It contains uranium and is therefore luminescent under UV light, which is very cool to look at in the dark.

Tadao Ando

What inspires you?

Anything related to industrial design and architecture. I especially search for interesting curves and intriguing details. I recently fell in love with the work of Kengo Kuma and the minimalism of Tadao Ando, two architects from Japan.

A book, podcast, or album that changed the way you think?

I particularly enjoyed StandOutOnline by Natasha Courtenay-Smith, which provides valuable insights into strategically building a digital brand through storytelling, authenticity, and targeted online presence. Another key inspiration for me is Unreasonable Hospitality by Will Guidara, which emphasises the transformative power of exceeding customer expectations and creating unforgettable experiences through personalised interactions. At our brand, we strive daily to integrate these principles by continuously refining our digital storytelling and cultivating a culture of attentive care, creativity, and connection with our community.

Solvil Watch

What was the last watch you bought?

I bought a little Solvil watch from my friend Joel Laplace; rose gold case, made by hand by Georges Croisier. He was a famous casemaker that produced cases for some of Patek Philippe’s 1518 references, for Vacheron Constantin’s Disco Volante, and many other brands. I like how the lugs are assembled and the proportions of the dial.

Do you collect anything outside of watches?

I collect vintage chairs especially the ones from the 1960s, and old phones like the first iPhone because I love the packaging and the overall design with its round edges. I also started to collect vintage ashtrays from Solvil and Rolex.

Crans-Montana

What’s your ideal long weekend?

I can count on my hands the number of ‘long’ or ‘personal’ weekends I enjoy during the year (joking), but if I can tell you one of them, it would certainly be a weekend in the Swiss mountains, relaxing and enjoying a fondue with my family. A walk near Crans-Montana or St-Luc station, then a drive through the mountains, taking in the breathtaking panorama of the Valais. It is where my brain is in ‘half-off’ mode. But never too far from my sketchbook, if one or more ideas come…

What would we always find in your fridge?

A jar of tapenade from Provence, France. This has been my guilty pleasure since I was very young. It reminds me of the time when we used to visit the region every year with my parents. We’d go to piano concerts in a château (because I did over 12 years of classical piano) and during the intermission, there was always tapenade on toast. That was the only reason I went!

What’s a rule or mantra that you live by?

Always strive for perfection, accepting that you will never arrive.

What does the year ahead look like for you?

This will be interesting because we’ve introduced our community design lab, where people can vote and co-create a watch with us. This will enable us to find out more about their interest and the models, features or colours they really want. We’ll also be opening our showroom in Japan, in Tokyo, this year. We’re looking forward to doing this, and to engaging with the Japanese market in an unusual way. This year will be our fourth year in business, and we’ll be presenting our anniversary piece during Watches and Wonders 2025. We want to better structure the three different lines, Mechaquartz, Mechanical and Technical, so that you can see accessible price point watches as well as accessible complications. Hamad Al Marri and I are always thinking about the balance between accessibility, attention to the community and the details we can add to our watches.

Jean Claude Biver

Who is a celebrity or person of note or intellectual you admire?

In addition to my parents, simply because they always supported me, accompanied me and took me back to my watch design internships when I was only 15, I love the spirit of people like Jean-Claude Biver and Max Büsser. Mr. Biver, because he opened doors and welcomed me during my first internship in the watchmaking industry at the age of 15. Mr. Büsser, for the precious advice he has given me and the interesting discussions we have when we meet in Geneva.

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Awake is a brand you may have caught rumblings of on Oracle Time previously as we’ve included them in several guides and compilation articles, such as being among the best independent releases in Geneva earlier this month. However, this is the first article we’ve produced dedicated solely to the brand and one of their new releases, the Awake Sơn Mài Jurassic Watch. Discover the brand in person at Hands On Horology.

Awake is a French brand with their headquarters in La Chaux-de-Fonds Switzerland. The name comes from the belief that 21^st century life is too centred on the urban and industrial, that we need to wake-up to reality and re-learn how to appreciate beauty for beauty’s sake. Hence their focus on dynamic lacquer dials using traditional Vietnamese methods. The Awake Sơn Mài Jurassic Watch follows in this tradition with a twist.

It’s the first watch in a brand new series called “A Tribute To The Seventh Art”, the Seventh Art being cinema and moviemaking according to a quote by Ricciotto Canudo in 1921. What that means in practical terms is that each watch in the series will be dedicated to a famous and iconic movie, reigniting that childlike appreciation we all experience the first time we watch these legendary films. Though there’s no prizes for guessing which film inspired the Jurassic Watch… Jurassic Park. The answer is Jurassic Park.

There are two watches in the Jurassic Watch collection, the T-Rex and the Raptors. Each features the Sơn Mài’s signature Vietnamese lacquer dial with a rich and enticing gradient. The colours are based on the irises of their titular dinosaur from the film, though with the saturation turned all the way up. Meaning the T-Rex is a fiery orange while the Raptors is an iridescent lime green.

In isolation those colours could refer to any number of themes and concepts but what ties them to dinosaurs in particular are the claw slash marks at 6 o’clock. Three for the Raptors and two for the T-Rex. Also, the hour markers look somewhat like pointed teeth although they are just the regular style from the rest of the collection. The use of pointed, jagged elements on the display creates a sort of sharp aesthetic that makes it feel like danger is imminent. Lost in the tropical jungle being hunted by a pack of velociraptors that contains at least one clever girl.

Speaking of the jungle, the caseback features a laser engraved jungle motif with fern-like plants. You’ll also find quotes from the film engraved as well. “Life Finds a Way” from Dr. Ian Malcolm on the Raptors and “Spared No Expense” from John Hammond on the T-Rex. The movement that’s on display is the La Joux-Perret G101, the current darling of the watch industry with a 68-hour power reserve.

For the straps, Awake have opted for something slightly unusual in the form of coloured salmon leather from the brand Ictyos. The scaled texture feels reptilian in nature, building on the dinosaur theme. It might be exposing too much about myself but as a child I had a dinosaur costume that I would wear to visit the Natural History Museum so… These watches are right up my street.

In terms of availability and price, there are 50 of each colourway available at a price of €2,075 excl. taxes (approx. £1,780). On top of that, one of the 100 watches will comes with an extra gift in a Wonka golden ticket style giveaway. A genuine Carcharodontosaurus tooth measuring 10cm in length with a certificate of authenticity. The specific tooth comes from a dig site at Kem Kem in Morocco. A really cool extra gift for one lucky collector. Buy a watch, receive a fossil, what’s not to love?

More details at Awake.

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Authorized Casio retailer ShopHQ is selling the Casio WSB1000 series at a massive clearance discount of 82% off. The black WSB1000-1AV, blue WSB1000-2AV, and white WSB1000-8BV are currently $9.97 each at ShopHQ and are $55.95 at Casio.com. (ShopHQ shipping is available to U.S. states, D.C., and Puerto Rico. Shipping is $9.99 or free on orders […]

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Panerai are one of the few brands in watchmaking to realise that a watch is about more than the physical object. Yes, you could buy a watch and immediately shut it behind a glass display case to admire but watches are fundamentally designed to be worn and have experiences with. That’s why Panerai started the high-end Experience Edition series, where the purchase of your timepiece comes with a once in a lifetime experience themed around the watch, the latest example of which is the new Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition.

The Marina Militare is the Italian Navy, who Panerai have been collaborating with since their very earliest days. There have been two previous Navy experience editions, the Forze Speciali and Marina Militare Carbotech, so in order to make the new watch stand out, they’ve dedicated it to a specific arm of the Navy, the aviation-centric Aviazione Navale. This is what Panerai have to say about the experience:

“Set against the stunning backdrop of Puglia, Italy, at the Naval Air Station in Grottaglie, participants will step into the shoes of a modern hero for three days. They will learn the uncompromising discipline of the Military Corps, participating in thrilling military training activities while gaining rare insight into their usual naval aviation operations through tactical simulations and helicopter missions. Beyond that, guests will have the opportunity to flank aircrew during their flight activity, and soak in the authentic atmosphere of southern Italian culture.”

As for the watch itself, it’s quite the leviathan of a diver. It measures 47mm in diameter in titanium with a ceramic insert unidirectional bezel with immersion time scale. It has a 500m water resistance rating that Panerai have tested to tolerances over 25% greater to ensure it can operate at the appropriate depths reliably. It’s fortunate that it’s made from titanium that’s 40% lighter than steel otherwise it would be like an anchor rather than just depicting one on its subdial.

It’s also a flyback chronograph with time-to-target display and double central chronograph hand layout. Normally a double chronograph hand means a split seconds chrono or a double independent chrono but that’s not the case here. It’s just that the chronograph minutes and chronograph seconds are both mounted on the central hand stack, allowing both to make use of the time-to-target scale for precision timing. Setting and activating the time-to-target function is done via the crowns at 4 and 10 o’clock.

Aesthetically, the display is military green with a grainy texture and slight fumé gradient inspired by the uniforms of the Aviazione Navale. Outside the chronograph elements, it features a dive style layout with lumed circle indexes for low light legibility. Robust and easy to read. Below that dial is the P.9100/R automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve.

As an experience edition, the price is not what you’d describe as accessible. Previous military versions have been around the £45,000 mark and the Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition is similar at £48,200. Though with the money-can’t-buy experience included, it’s arguably not bad value for what you get. It’s also a limited edition of 35 pieces.

More details at Panerai.

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Meteorite dials are cool. I own a quartz chronograph that has a single meteorite subdial and while the rest of the watch is demonstrably subpar, the fact that it contains material that has flown through space for millions of years before completing its journey here on Earth means it’s still a proud member of my personal collection. However, it pales to absolute nothing in the face of a watch like the new Formex Essence Space Glacier, which presents meteorite as you’ve never seen it before.

Specifically, its meteorite dial features a hand-applied, ice blue lacquer. Coloured meteorite as a concept isn’t new, even Formex themselves have done it before with the Space Gold and other brands like Czapek & Cie. have tackled the concept to award winning effect with the Antarctique Green Meteor. What makes the Space Glacier special is that Formex have developed new in-house techniques to achieve the specific icy blue tone seen here.

The raw surface of meteorite isn’t suitable to take a lacquer due to its imperfections and darker iron colour, which means lacquers look much duller than they should. Therefore, Formex give the material an ultra-thin electroplated coating of a metal that is suitable for lacquer, which is most commonly rhodium. However, after some experimentation, the six layers of hand-applied blue lacquer just didn’t look right over a rhodium base. So, for the first time ever, Formex tried a 98% pure sterling silver plating and it worked perfectly. It results in a rich, clear colour while also highlighting and emphasising the individual details of the signature Widmanstätten pattern.

It looks great. The organically formed striations of the meteor – the specific meteorite used is the Muonionalusta, the most common commercially available meteorite – create a fractured appearance like the surface of a glacier, hence Formex Essence Space Glacier. It’s also an intentional reference to the fact that Muonionalusta was discovered in what is modern day northern Scandinavia, inside the arctic circle.

As for the actual timekeeping elements, it features applied indices with Super-LumiNova inserts for low light legibility and matching hands. There’s also a date window at 6 o’clock carved into the meteorite of the dial. The date wheel itself is a dark grey colour with black numerals so that it doesn’t create a stark white eyesore at the bottom of the display.

The Formex Essence Space Glacier is available in two sizes, either 39mm or 43mm. I’m more a 39mm type of person but even though the 43mm is large by most people’s standards, it’s on the more wearable side with a thickness of just 10.6mm. The 39mm is thinner still at a round 10mm. The Essence itself is a versatile watch that is suitable for all occasions with a combination of brushed and polished finishing, exposed screws and a steel construction. Robust but also smart.

Beneath the surface of the meteorite dial is housed the Swiss Sellita SW200-1. It’s the higher grade COSC chronometer version, which means it has been tested in multiple positions to ensure a high accuracy. It’s also the newer edition of the movement that launched a few years ago with an improved 41-hour power reserve.

As for price, the Formex Essence Space Glacier is £1,680 on leather strap with deployant clasp or £1,790 on steel bracelet. Formex have also made a note that for customers in the US they are not currently planning to raise their prices during the uncertainty of tariff changes, tanking any raised costs themselves so that you can enjoy your watches at the current great value. If you’re in the UK you don’t have to worry about that but what you could do is come and see Formex yourself at London’s new premier watch exhibition and showcase, Hands On Horology.

More details at Formex.

​Oracle Time 

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