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Certina DS Action Diver 40.5 Achieves 10,000G Shock Resistance for Sub-£1,000

Certina DS Action Diver 40.5

Certina DS Action Diver 40.5

Certina has got to be one of the most self-confident brands around. By which I mean they are quietly off in their own corner of the industry, doing their own thing and not really drawing attention to themselves and yet they produce some really solid watches that people love. No one really raves about them, they aren’t incredibly hyped, they simply offer good value and if you own one, you’ll get a friendly nod of approval from any other collector you meet. In fact, in the press release for the new Certina DS Action Diver 40.5, Certina haven’t even drawn attention to one of its greatest attributes.

The Certina DS Action Diver 40.5 has a shock resistance value of 10,000G at a price of £765 – £880 depending on the reference. Specs like that at a value like this are very rare indeed – it wouldn’t just survive a drop onto a hardwood floor, you could put a bit of force into it as well. That level of protection comes from the new DS (Double Security) Concept Extreme Shock Resistance. While the DS system has been around since 1959, this latest development improves on the design.

Certina DS Action Diver 40.5

Building on the traditional elements of the DS system that include a scratch resistant sapphire crystal, reinforced caseback and sophisticated sealing system, the DS Concept Extreme Shock Resistance introduces a new method of screwing the movement into the case by means of a thin, ring-shaped nut to better secure it and protect it from vibrations. Additionally there’s a new metal plate between the dial and the movement, connecting the two and absorbing shocks between them. Lastly, the sapphire crystal has been redesigned to better distribute and diffuse energy thanks to a new, slightly domed shape. Perfect for sports watches and especially dive watches where bumps and scrapes are a daily hazard.

The DS Concept Extreme Shock Resistance isn’t the only new aspect to the DS Action Diver 40.5, the case has also been redesigned with completely new proportions. It measures 40.5mm in diameter, sitting comfortably between the existing 38mm and 43mm options. It makes a lot of sense to offer a mid-range size, more wearable than the large model but without sacrificing the practicality that a large tool watch offers with a wider, more legible display. The thickness sits at 14.1mm, which does make it quite a tall watch but that’s needed to accommodate the additional bulk of the shock resistance system.

Certina DS Action Diver 40.5

As for the display and overall design, it remains comfortably Certina. No pushing the envelope here. There are four options available, three in steel and one in titanium. The steel versions feature two black versions on a choice of NATO strap or steel bracelet with the third being a white interpretation with matching white bezel. The titanium edition is presented on a matching titanium bracelet with a blue dial and bezel. All four of the bezels feature ceramic inserts for superb scratch resistance and colour retention.

Certina DS Action Diver 40.5
Certina DS Action Diver 40.5
Certina DS Action Diver 40.5

Getting into the nitty gritty of the pricing, the steel with NATO strap is £765, the two steel bracelet options are £805 and the titanium is £880. While on the surface this is ‘just another Certina dive watch’, the improved internal structure and DS Concept Extreme Shock Resistance give it some serious bang for your buck. Plus it’s powered by a Powermatic 80 movement with 80-hour power reserve, which is always nice for quality of life.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Certina

DS Action Diver 40.5mm

Ref:
C048.407.18.051.01(black,

NATO strap), C048.407.11.051.01 (black, steel bracelet), C048.407.11.011.00 (white, steel bracelet), C048.407.44.041.00 (blue, titanium bracelet)

Case:
40.5mm

diameter x 14.1mm thickness, stainless steel or titanium, ceramic bezel ring, screwed crown

Dial:
Black,

white or blue

Water resistance:
300m

(30 bar)

Movement:
ETA

calibre Powermatic 80.611, automatic

Frequency:
21,600

vph (3 Hz)

Power reserve:
80h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date

Strap:
NATO

strap or stainless steel or titanium bracelet, quick-release system

Price:
£765

(black, NATO strap), £805 (black or white, steel bracelet), £880 (blue, titanium bracelet)

More details at Certina.

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Micromilspec x Black Badger Team Up for Project Sabotage Milgraph

Micromilspec x Black Badger Milgraph Sabotage

Micromilspec x Black Badger Milgraph Sabotage

When talking about Scandinavian brand Micromilspec’s latest watch, it’s severely tempting to go all in on the story and theme of the watch. That’s because alongside the watch they’ve created an entire fictional universe for it to inhabit, based off of Japanese anime concepts. The time: the far future. The place: techno-autocratic Japan. The enemy: Grand Psycho (yes, that’s a Grand Seiko pun) and the Crown Guard. Our hero: Black Badger, a pirate and rogue destined to bring down the system. His watch of choice: the Micromilspec x Black Badger Project Sabotage Milgraph.

To be clear, I did not make any of that up. That’s genuinely how Micromilspec is marketing this limited edition collaboration. As a card carrying nerd myself, I kind of love it. The Black Badger character asks the question what if Rocket Racoon and Star Lord were the same person? However, our nerd focus at Oracle Time is on watches not fictional characters so let’s dive into the timepiece.

Micromilspec x Black Badger Milgraph Sabotage
Micromilspec x Black Badger Milgraph Sabotage

First of all, who is Black Badger the designer? Quite simply they’re James Thompson, who you may know as the co-owner of the watch brand Arcanaut. He’s also collaborated in the past with the likes of MB&F, De Bethune, Hautlence, Sarpaneva, MW&Co and Linde Werdelin with his creations worn by Robert De Niro, Robert Downey Jr., Arnold Schwarzenegger and Lando Norris. He’s known for signature elements such as his use of lume that creates a disruptive and futuristic aesthetic.

For the Micromilspec x Black Badger Project Sabotage they’ve started with a base of the Milgraph, which is Micromilspec’s flagship model with its 42mm titanium case, destro orientation and military inspired chronograph display. With a 100m water resistance rating it’s not a dedicated diver but if you find yourself hiding from the Crown Guard in a dank sewer system, it should be fine.

Of course, the original Milgraph has a fully tactical display in black and white with hints of orange for legibility and the Project Sabotage essentially inverts that. It has a white base with black timekeeping markings, keeping some of the orange accents and actually expanding the colour to the 24-hour GMT scale around the periphery. It’s a lot less subtle than the original, swapping that tactical design for a tacticool design (another word taken directly from their marketing). The Super-LumiNova hour markers and hands were design by Black Badger along with lume specialists RC Tritec to achieve an intense ultramarine colour.

Micromilspec x Black Badger Milgraph Sabotage

The display itself consists of a vertical tricompax chronograph with a GMT function. That means the central hand stack contains your standard hours and minutes, chronograph seconds and 24-hour GMT. Then, the chronograph subdials are helpfully labelled minutes, hours and running seconds – by the graduations of the scale you can tell it’s a 30-minute counter and 12-hour counter respectively. They’re powered by the La Joux-Perret L121 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve.

Micromilspec x Black Badger Milgraph Sabotage

Alongside the watch, this limited edition collector’s set comes with a serial matching dog tag made from zirconium with Super-LumiNova elements, continuing the aesthetic of the watch. The Micromilspec x Black Badger Project Sabotage Milgraph is limited to just 75 pieces at a price of $3,850 (approx. £2,875). While I can’t promise you a place as part of Black Badger’s rebellious crew, I can promise you a chance to meet Micromilspec at Hands On Horology this June at London’s Protein Studios – learn more here.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Micromilspec

x Black Badger Project Sabotage Milgraph

Case:
42mm

diameter x 15mm thickness, grade 5 titanium, microblasted finish, uni-directional bezel with minute scale, sapphire crystal

Dial:
Matte

white with grainy finish, applied indices and Super-LumiNova X1

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
La

Joux-Perret calibre L121, automatic

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
60h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, chronograph, GMT

Strap:
Grade

5 titanium bracelet, black leather or rubber strap

Price:
$3,850

(approx. £2,875), limited to 75 pieces

More details at Micromilspec.

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Stowa Unveil Antea Classic KS Rose Gold and Anthracite Inspired by 1937 Minimalism

Stowa Antea Classic KS

Stowa Antea Classic KS

The legacy of Germany’s Bauhaus movement is a strong one, extending for over a century with the school having been founded in 1919. However, while its influences are still being felt in the watch industry today, its impact on German watchmakers was more or less instant. During their research for the new Antea Classic KS Rose Gold and Anthracite, Stowa discovered that their heritage Bauhaus and minimalist designs date back to as early as 1937, just four years after the iconic school closed in 1933, which given the design lag in the industry, makes them one of the style’s earliest adopters.

As part of their research into the period, Stowa spoke with Mr. Karl D. Weber, the son of the founder of Weber & Baral, a dial factory who worked with German brands including Stowa and Lange in the 1930s. According to Weber, the proliferation of Bauhaus design happened almost subconsciously in the watch industry. His father, Arthur Weber, was not moved by the doctrines or ideology of Bauhaus when he designed those early 1937 dials for Stowa so much as he was inspired by the furniture, curtains and patterns that had become popular and which in turn had been influenced by Bauhaus. It’s a surprisingly down-to-earth answer. Not jumping on the bandwagon of artistic pretention and instead saying no, what was important was reflecting the culture and interests of customers.

Stowa Antea Classic KS

Jumping forward more than a few decades to 2025, the Antea Classic KS Rose Gold and Anthracite aim to capture the original charm of those 1937 models. The rose gold model in particular is directly inspired by one of those vintage references while the anthracite edition is more of a modernisation. When Stowa say rose gold, they’re talking about the colour of the dial rather than the material of the case as both versions are produced in stainless steel measuring a vintage appropriate 35.5mm.

Stowa Antea Classic KS

In today’s parlance we would describe the Antea Classic KS Rose Gold as a salmon watch. Interestingly, just as the vintage Stowas were early adopters of Bauhaus, they were also early adopters of the salmon colour scheme because the term was first coined in the 1930s and caught on in a significant way in the 40s. The term refers specifically to watches with rose gold or copper-coloured dials with steel or white gold cases, creating that signature colour combination like a fillet of salmon with crisp, silver skin.

It was a very popular colour combination a few years ago though it has dropped off a little recently. That’s perhaps why Stowa have presented a second version with a cool grey dial with bold, white markings that feels more modern in comparison to the retro rose gold model. Both versions feature sunray brushing and minimalist Roman numeral markings – new to these archival editions as opposed to the Arabic numeral models in the existing Antea line. They also have a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.

Stowa Antea Classic KS
Stowa Antea Classic KS

Powering the Stowa Antea Classic KS Rose Gold and Anthracite is the Peseux 7001, a manual-winding calibre with a 42–45-hour power reserve. It’s known for its slim profile, measuring just 2.5mm thick, which makes it appropriate for the vintage dimensions of the collection. It’s also finished to top grade with Geneva stripes. It’s visible through an exhibition caseback.

Stowa Antea Classic KS
Stowa Antea Classic KS

The price is €1,200 on leather strap or €1,270 on Milanese bracelets (approx. £1,010/£1,070). That price seems appropriate given that it’s a mechanical watch with a sleek, vintage inspired dress watch design. It’s right on the cusp between being an entry-level, accessible watch and that second tier of mid-range luxury timepiece – which is fitting as that’s how I’d describe Stowa as a whole.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Stowa

Antea Classic KS

Case:
35.5mm

diameter x 6.9mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Rosé

gold or anthracite sunburst, Roman numerals, blued steel hands

Water resistance:
30m

(3 bar)

Movement:
Peseux

calibre 7001, manual winding

Frequency:
21,600

vph (3 Hz)

Power reserve:
42h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Black

hand-stitched leather or milanaise stainless steel bracelet

Price:
€1,200

(approx. £1,030)

More details at Stowa.

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Hender Scheme releases fourth leather band G-Shock collaboration with DW-5900

Hender Scheme releases fourth leather band G-Shock collaboration with DW-5900 Hender Scheme releases fourth G-Shock collaboration with DW-5900 (2025)Japanese leather goods maker Hender Scheme announced its fourth G-Shock collaboration and its first with a DW-5900 base. The watch has a “natural” color with a blank white face and includes a real cow leather band and an interchangeable resin band. The leather band is vegetable-tanned and hand-sewn and is meant to age naturally with […]

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Formex Announce Field Automatic Gen 2 with Revamped Dial

Formex Field Automatic Gen 2

Formex Field Automatic Gen 2

The Formex Field is a watch that Oracle Time members should be familiar with, after all we recently gave one away as part of the quarterly membership prize draw. It’s a versatile and accessible field watch that combines a titanium case with a sandwich dial and retro stencil display. Now the collection is receiving a revamp with the launch of the Formex Field Automatic Gen 2.

Formex Field Automatic Gen 2

At its core this is an aesthetic update as the Formex Field Automatic Gen 2 features the same 40mm Grade 2 titanium case with super hard coating. But honestly, it’s a really nice case so why change it? It has a 150m water resistance rating and with that coating adding an extra layer of durability, it really is well built to tackle a range of conditions without having the specialised (and often bulky) elements of a niche tool watch such as a diver.

Formex Field Automatic Gen 2

Where the Field Automatic Gen 2 differs from the original is the dial. Instead of the single matte block of colour, it’s now presented in a sector style with sunray brushed discs in the centre and around the periphery while the hour scale is presented on a matte ring. It makes for a much more refined display thanks to the contrasting finishes, not to mention a brighter one with the integration of sunray elements that reflect much more light.

Formex Field Automatic Gen 2

As for colour, it’s presented with three options, all different from the Gen 1. There’s Ice Blue, Coho Salmon and Basalt Grey. The blue and salmon in particular feel very fresh and bright in comparison to the sage green, petrol blue and charcoal of the previous version. It’s amazing how thoroughly a simple change such as colour and finish can transform the look of a watch. It makes you inspect every aspect of the dial in a new light, including the stencil numerals and sandwich construction.

Formex Field Automatic Gen 2
Formex Field Automatic Gen 2
Formex Field Automatic Gen 2

Powering the Formex Field Automatic Gen 2 is the Sellita SW200-1 with 41-hour power reserve. A staple of the watch industry that’s also found in the Gen 1, so no surprises here. It also helps to keep the watch nice and accessible: £780 on nylon or Velcro strap and £890 on leather strap with deployant clasp. With its more refined, slightly dressier dial, I think it really suits the leather.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Formex

Field Automatic Gen 2

Case:
40mm

diameter x 10.5mm thickness, grade 2 titanium

Dial:
Ice

blue, coho salmon or basalt grey, dual-component with sunburst center, sloped minute track, sandwich-style recessed numerals, colour-adjusted Super-LumiNova®, beveled date window with colour-matched date disc

Water resistance:
150m

(15 bar)

Movement:
Sellita

calibre SW200-1, automatic, 26 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
41h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date

Strap:
black,

blue or khaki green nylon velcro or Bolgheri leather with carbon deployant clasp

Price:
$870

(approx. £685)

More details at Formex.

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Hublot Introduce Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve with Carbon Case

Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon Featured

Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon Featured

I must admit that when I look at the Hublot Big Bang range there is such similarity between certain models that it’s easy to become turned around and lose sight of what makes each model special or unique, even in some of its more unusual iterations like the Square Bang. However, with the new Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve what makes it special is immediately apparent. It’s the first Square Bang that’s not a chronograph and, more importantly, features a very distinctive skeleton display.

As this is the first tourbillon model in the Square Bang collection, Hublot wanted to give it a special case. As such, they’ve completely redesigned the 42mm design in a carbon composite material woven into vertical and horizontal lines. It makes for a very striking, patterned texture across the flanks of the case and broad, flat bezel. It’s slightly bizarre to see a material that normally feels organic and random tamed into rigid lines – that’s because carbon composites are typically made from carbon fibres that are bonded using a resin to make it extra strong, often creating random patterns in the material. However, through careful production, the resulting pattern can be predetermined as is the case here.

Speaking of rigid lines, the skeletonised display features entirely square bridges. It gives the piece a sort of modernist appeal, like a Mondrian painting. It’s like the dial is full of windows through which you are invited to inspect isolated elements of the movement inside, parcelled up into bitesize chunks for your enjoyment. It creates a juxtaposition with the circular elements of the movement’s mechanism such as the gear train, power reserve indicator, power barrel and titular tourbillon.

Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon
Hublot Square Bang Tourbiillon

It’s notable that each of those four elements are specifically arranged to match the four sides of the square design: power barrel at 12 o’clock, winding system at 3 o’clock, tourbillon at 6 and power reserve indicator at 9. It doesn’t necessarily balance the display because each one of those elements is very different in size and function, but it does create a sense of harmony.

The movement powering the Square Bang Tourbillon is the MHUB6023. It’s a manual winding calibre with a 96-hour power reserve, which is where the “4-Day Power Reserve” part of the watch’s full title comes in. Tourbillons are quite a power intensive complication due to their constant rotation so a 4-day reserve is solidly impressive. That’s also why the power barrel occupies so much space at the top of the display.

Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon

As for price, the Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve comes in at £91,000. That’s quite the eye-watering price but then this is Hublot so what else were you expecting? It is at least a watch with quite a lot of character thanks to the dynamic, geometric display.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Hublot

Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve

Ref:
805.QD.0170.RX

Case:
42mm

diameter x 13.2mm thickness, carbon fibre

Dial:
Skeleton

with square bridges

Water resistance:
30m

(3 bar)

Movement:
Hublot

calibre MHUB6023, manual, 25 jewels

Frequency:
21,600

vph (3 Hz)

Power reserve:
96h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, tourbillon, power reserve indicator

Strap:
Structured

rubber with ceramic and titanium deployant clasp

Price:
£91,000

More details at Hublot.

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8 Awesome Microbrand Watches to See in London this Summer

Microbrand Watches to See in London this Summer Hands On Horology

Microbrand Watches to See in London this Summer Hands On Horology

With Hands On Horology taking place on June 14th at London’s Protein Studios, let’s take a look at some of the cool microbrands and some of their creative watches you can look forward to seeing in the metal. From the new kids on the block like Nalla Neram to established names like Baltic, there’s a lot to be excited about. Check out more highlights and exclusive Hands On Horology limited editions here.

Baltic Hermétique

Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition

Baltic are one of those brands who teeter on the edge of being defined as a microbrand. With a few landmark years under their belt that saw them step up alongside major brands taking part in industry events like the Only Watch auction, the French brand has earned a level of reputation and prestige exceeding that of a humble micro.

One of their biggest releases of recent years is the Hermetique. Their first field watch, which features a distinctive design consisting of a 37mm circular case with hidden crown, making for an uninterrupted silhouette. There have been several versions of the Hermetique including the original series, a textured dial limited edition and even a dual time model. However, it’s none of these that will steal headlines in June as Baltic are set to release a new Summer Dial variant in time for Hands On Horology, making the show one of the first places you can discover the new watch. With its clean field watch inspired display, there’s plenty of room for exciting dial designs ranging from colour to texture and beyond, so personally I can’t wait to see what they have in store.

Atelier Wen Perception

Atelier Wen Perception Collection Piao Ying Xia

There’s a trend in microbrand design at the moment to throw off the prejudices of bygone eras and rediscover the styles and manufacturing capabilities of Asian regions. That’s what Atelier Wen is all about, combining European and Chinese horological sensibilities, which is why their name is made up of both French and Chinese, meaning Culture Workshop. This steady change of perception is also why one of their core models is called the Perception.

It’s a 40mm steel watch with an integrated bracelet design and octagonal shape, inspired by the luxury steel sports watch movement of the 1970s and 80s. What really makes it exceptional though is the dial, which is produced by what Atelier Wen describe as China’s first Guilloché Master Craftsman, Cheng Yucai. It’s an intricate écaille de poisson pattern paired with a huiwen pattern chapter ring, tying in elements of Chinese cultural heritage. It’s powered by the Dandong calibre SL1588 with 41-hour power reserve. As far as changing perceptions goes, it’s a step (more of a leap) in the right direction.

Brew Metric Manual Wind

Brew Metric Manual

Brew watches is the definition of a cult success – specifically the cult of caffeine, with their watches inspired by the art of the perfect brew. Many of their watches feature dedicated scales and timing elements dedicated to how long you should give your bean-based drink of choice, right down to an espresso. Pair that with distinctive retro styling and you have a microbrand hotter than your morning coffee.

Their most recent launch is the Metric Manual Wind, which is the brand’s first manual watch, having previously only explored quartz and automatic options. It’s worth noting that the Metric Manual is a limited edition so there’s a possibility that it will be sold out before we reach Hands On Horology (the more exclusive of the two colourways has already sold out). It’s classic Brew with a cushion 36mm x 41.5mm case in steel with a round dial featuring a retro inspired dial with the signature coffee bean logo at 6 o’clock. The movement inside is the Sellita SW210-1 b.

CIGA Design U Series Blue Planet

CIGA Design U Series Blue Planet

In a similar vein to Atelier Wen, Ciga Design are putting Chinese horology on the map in a big way. They were the first Chinese brand in history to win an award at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2021 with the Blue Planet II. That level of recognition is almost unheard of among microbrands. You can see why they broke crowdfunding records for a watch on Indiegogo – twice.

The Blue Planet, which won the GPHG award, is naturally the brand’s flagship model. It features a disco volante style case that’s perfectly circular to match the detailed depiction of the Earth in the dial’s centre. The Earth itself rotates to serve as the watch’s single hand. What makes it special is that instead of having a static minute scale, the minutes also rotate, keeping time with the rotating hour hand. What makes that special is that the minute scale actually has to rotate more than 360 degrees per hour in order to account for the moving hour hand. That’s what makes it a GPHG winner.

Micromilspec Milgraph

Micromilspec Milgraph

Micromilspec is a relatively new name to the microbrand game in a public facing capacity though they’ve actually been around for much longer. That’s because they previously produced milspec  (military specification) watches exclusively for military units rather than commercially. Now though, they’ve brought their tactical tool watches to market, albeit still in extremely limited numbers.

Their signature model is the Milgraph, a robust titanium tool watch that features several useful scales and functions to keep you on track during military exercise, or you know, just regular exercise. It’s a combination GMT and chronograph with a destro (left-handed) configuration. Interestingly, despite that configuration it’s still designed to be worn on your left wrist as it simply stops the crown and pushers digging into your wrist during activities. For a more urban and disruptive version, Micromilspec are teaming up with Black Badger for a limited-edition release on May 22nd.

Nalla Neram Kaalam Minutes Timer

Nalla Neram Kaalam Minutes Timer 7077

Nalla Neram are a microbrand making their debut in 2025 with their first collection. They’re inspired by the heritage of India, one of the largest nations of Earth who have a disproportionately small influence on the watch industry. Their approach to promoting India in watch design is slightly different to Chinese brands as Indian horological infrastructure is even further behind than China. As such, in order to produce high quality watches while representing India with honour and class, their watches are Swiss-made, making use of movements from reputable manufactures like La Joux-Perret.

Their debut timepiece is the Kaalam Minutes Timer. It’s an asymmetrical tricompax chronograph display. At 3 o’clock is a 30-minute timer, at 6 o’clock is a 12-hour timer and at 9 o’clock is a tiny spinning chakra that serves as the running seconds indicator in place of a small seconds subdial. It also features a full minute scale with each marker given an Arabic numeral, which in conjunction with the chakra indicator encourages the wearer to embrace the present moment to its fullest.

RZE Resolute

RZE Resolute Arctic Grey

RZE have the interesting distinction of being one of the first brands to really showcase the versatility of titanium at an accessible price point. Initially it was considered a high end material exclusive to only the top tier brands but microbrands like RZE show that it doesn’t have to be so exclusive. Especially when it comes to versatile adventure watches.

The Resolute is their entry-level field watch with its 40mm titanium case featuring 100m water resistance rating, which makes it ideal for everyday adventures and the occasional spill without being a dedicated diver. One of the drawbacks of titanium is its relatively low scratch resistance compared to steel, but RZE use an UltraHex coating that increases its hardness to 1,200 vickers, higher than the commonly used steel alloys. The dials are super legible with Super-LumiNova indexes and monocolour displays. Although RZE have also added gradient options like the recent Arctic Grey.

Serica Ref. 5303 PLD

Serica 5303 PLD

Serica are an interesting brand in that while they are relatively young by watch brand standards, founded in 2019, they have the confidence of a much older brand. Creating tool watches and divers that stay within the boundaries of the archetype but carving themselves a unique design space within those constraints.

Case in point the Ref. 5303 PLD. It offers a twist on the traditional dive watch formula by adding one of the lesser-known (this is quite possibly the first time used) dive timer scales that you may have never heard of before. The most common diver scale is the immersion timer, your classic 60-minute bezel with unidirectional rotation. The second most common is the decompression timer, which tells you how long your decompression stops need to be after spending certain time at specific depths. The Serica features the DT Max scale, (in addition to an immersion timer) which tells you how long you can spend at certain depths without then needing any decompression stops. This links to the PLD’s military connections (specifically French Navy EOD) where soldiers need to get underwater and back out quickly, ie. not making decompression stops.

There are of course a lot more watches than these that you can discover at Hands On Horology.

For a full list of exhibitors head over to Hands On Horology.

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IWC Launch Big Pilot’s Watch Tourbillon Le Petit Prince Duo in Ceramic and Platinum

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince 3 Tourbillon Le Petit Prince

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince 3 Tourbillon Le Petit Prince

While it’s easy to think of IWC as a tool watch brand, they’re also at the top of the haute horology game thanks to watches like the Eternal Calendar. Now they’re also taking their charming Le Petit Prince to new haute horological heights with a duo of Pilot’s Watch Tourbillon Le Petit Prince watches. First is the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince in ceramic, second is the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Le Petit Prince in platinum.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince IW504901

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince marks the first time that Le Petit Prince sub-collection has been presented with a ceramic case. Ceramic is an incredibly tough, scratch resistant material so it makes sense that up until now it has been reserved for IWC’s sportiest watches such as those aforementioned Top Gun editions. However, now that IWC has introduced a rich, blue ceramic colour, it perfectly suits the signature colour scheme of the Petit Prince design. The case itself measures a bold 46.5mm in diameter, really putting the “Big” in Big Pilot’s Watch. There are also gold accents across the case and dial including the oversize crown.

Mechanically the watch combines two of horology’s most famous high complications, the tourbillon and the perpetual calendar. The tourbillon sits in pride of place at 12 o’clock, rotating once every 60-seconds allowing it to serve double duty as the watch’s seconds indicator. The calendar portion of the display then consists of days, date, months, year and moonphase spread across the subdials at 3, 6 and 9. The subdial at 3 o’clock also features a power reserve indicator marking the watch’s 7-day power reserve.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince IW504901

The movement powering these complications is the 51950 calibre. It’s visible through the exhibition caseback where you can see the rotor decorated in classic Le Petit Prince style with the titular character from the Antoine de Saint Exupéry novel standing on an asteroid. The same motif is also used in place on the moon on the moonphase.

For price and availability, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince is limited to 100 pieces and is price on request.

Price and Specs:


Model:
IWC

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince

Ref:
IW504901

Case:
46.5mm

diameter x 16.18mm thickness, blue ceramic with 18k 5N gold crown and case back ring

Dial:
Blue

with gold-plated appliques and hands, Super-LumiNova®

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
IWC

calibre 51950, automatic

Frequency:
19,800

vph (2.75 Hz)

Power reserve:
168h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, perpetual calendar, power reserve indicator, tourbillon

Strap:
Blue

rubber strap with 18k 5N gold folding clasp

Price:
Price

on request, limited to 100 pieces

Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Le Petit Prince

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Le Petit Prince IW329501

Next is the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Le Petit Prince in platinum. It’s essentially an ultra-luxe interpretation of the already very luxurious gold edition of the same watch. At 43mm it’s still a very large watch but it’s actually the small version of the Big Pilot’s Watch, which was controversial when it was released for being too small according to diehard collectors. The use of platinum gives it more of that ‘stealth wealth’ vibe because it’s not so grandiose as gold and could be mistaken for steel. Though platinum is markedly harder to craft with than steel, making the watch something of a swan, serene of the surface and working like mad below.

As part of the Le Petit Prince collection it features a signature blue dial with the titular tourbillon located at 6 o’clock. It’s paired with oversize Arabic numerals to maintain the pilot’s watch aesthetic, easily visible at a glance and in low light conditions thanks to plenty of lume. Though let’s be honest, in platinum this watch is for refined occasions rather than sweating it out in a cockpit.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Le Petit Prince IW329501

It’s a limited edition of 150 pieces at a price of £78,400. Not unexpected for a platinum watch housing the 82905 calibre tourbillon movement.

Price and Specs:


Model:
IWC

Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Le Petit Prince

Ref:
IW329501

Case:
43mm

diameter x 14.58mm thickness, platinum

Dial:
Deep

blue sunray finish with rhodium-plated appliques and hands, Super-LumiNova®

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
IWC

calibre 82905, automatic, 25 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
80h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, tourbillon

Strap:
Brown

calfskin strap with platinum folding clasp

Price:
£78,400,

limited to 150 pieces

More details at IWC.

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The LED backlights on the G-Shock BBR Series appear red instead of the usual white

The LED backlights on the G-Shock BBR Series appear red instead of the usual white G-Shock DW-5600BBR-1 Red LED BacklightNew videos from Japanese YouTuber Man of Watch demonstrate how the LED backlights for the LCD displays on the new G-Shock Black and Bold Red (BBR) Series appear when activated. They are standard backlights that illuminate the background and have a red color due to the red tint of the LCD display. This red backlight […]

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Audemars Piguet Opens New AP House Manchester with Watches of Switzerland

Audemars Piguet AP House Manchester

Audemars Piguet AP House Manchester

The act of buying a watch is not one to take lightly, it’s a serious commitment of money and confidence that a brand can deliver on their promise of a high quality timepiece. That’s why many brands seek to make the process of buying a watch as special as the watch itself, whether that be through the boutique experience or something a little more extravagant such as a lounge with a bar. It’s the latter experience that Audemars Piguet provide with their AP House salesrooms and now a new AP House Manchester is opening in in partnership with Watches of Switzerland.

Audemars Piguet are very involved when it comes to the sales of their watches, believing that APs should only be sold from single-brand Audemars Piguet showrooms. That’s why they developed the AP House concept, creating an environment that they can curate entirely as they wish. They take the form of luxury lounges hidden away from the bustle of the street, often only recognisable by a small plaque in the door or a flag hung outside.

Audemars Piguet AP House Manchester
Audemars Piguet AP House Manchester

There are currently AP Houses in London (which for those in the know is a great, under-the-radar spot for a drink), Bangkok, Barcelona, Hong Kong, Madrid, Milan, Munich, Shanghai, St. Barths, Tel Aviv, Tokyo, New York and Zurich.

Normally AP take control of their houses personally, but for the first time ever they’re placing one in another’s capable hands. Specifically, Watches of Switzerland and AP have announced their intent to create the new AP House Manchester together. It will serve as a new flagship shopping location for the north of England, with a higher allocation of watches compared to other authorised retailers. The fact that it’s being operated by Watches of Switzerland means that there’s the potential for far more AP Houses to be created in future, rapidly expanding the concept across the world.

We originally covered this story in 2023 when the project was first announced and now it has finally reached fruition and is open at last, two years later. Manchester is rapidly becoming one of the premier places for watch shopping in the UK.

Address: 35 King Street, Manchester

More details at Audemars Piguet.

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