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H. Moser & Cie. Launch Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Boutique Edition

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Boutique Edition

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Boutique Edition

Moser & Cie. are opening their latest standalone boutique in the heart of Silicon Valley in the San Francisco Bay Area, California. In order to mark the occasion they’re also launching a Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Boutique Edition in yellow gold. A golden version of one of their haute horological timepieces for the Golden State.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Boutique Edition

The Steamliner is one of the most instantly recognisable watch designs currently produced thanks to its smooth cushion case and mono-link, scaled integrated bracelet. It’s inspired by and named after a style of America locomotive which also had flowing lines along its bodywork. Here the body of the watch and its bracelet are presented in yellow gold giving it a luxurious lustre. Currently the only golden versions of the Streamliner are rose gold, so the yellow gold offers a much brighter alternative without the pinkish hue of the rose.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Boutique Edition

As for the dial it’s a skeletonised tourbillon display in dark anthracite grey. Special attention was paid to making the skeleton bridges as symmetrical as possible, which is why it has matching spokes above the hands leading to 11 and 1 o’clock that form a Y shape. As well as the arch from 7:30 to 4:30 around the edge of the tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It seems like a bizarre undertaking to commit to, given the natural asymmetry of a watch movement, but it does lend an architectural air to the piece.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Boutique Edition

The movement is the HMC 814 automatic calibre with 72-hour power reserve rating – that power is stored in the large, exposed barrel at 12:30. It also features H. Moser’s original double hairspring as part of the balance held in the rotating tourbillon, which rotates at a rate of once per minute, allowing it to serve as the timepiece’s seconds indicator. Between the gold case and this movement, this is a top end haute horology timepiece.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Boutique Edition

In principle, this is the kind boutique edition I like, a small twist on an existing model. It makes it feel special enough that it’s a worthwhile investment as a collector while at the same time not being so ground-breaking that you feel like you’re missing out if you don’t happen to live near one of their boutiques. A material change such as yellow gold on a haute horology is pitched perfectly for what H. Moser want to achieve with a California boutique. If you find yourself in one of their boutiques the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Boutique Edition will set you back a casual £125,000.

Price and Specs:


Model:
H.

Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Boutique Edition

Ref:
6814-0700

Case:
40mm

diameter x 12.1mm thickness, 18k yellow gold

Dial:
Skeletonised

Water resistance:
120m

(12 bar)

Movement:
H.Moser

calibre HMC 814, automatic, 28 jewels, 167 parts

Frequency:
21,600

vph (3 Hz)

Power reserve:
72h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes

Strap:
18k

yellow gold bracelet

Price:
£125,000

More details at H. Moser & Cie.

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Grand Seiko Introduce Sakura-Kakushi 18k Rose Gold 62GS

Grand Seiko Sakura-Kakushi 18k Rose Gold 62GS SBGH368

Grand Seiko Sakura-Kakushi 18k Rose Gold 62GS SBGH368

Grand Seiko have tackled the Sakura-Kakushi concept a couple of times in recent years with the 44GS and 62GS titanium. In both those examples the primary colour on display across the dial is pink, which makes sense because Sakura-Kakushi is the phenomenon of early cherry blossom in snow. For their latest cherry blossom model, the Grand Seiko Sakura-Kakushi 18k Rose Gold 62GS, they’ve instead opted for a light silver tone to complement the new golden case.

Grand Seiko Sakura-Kakushi 18k Rose Gold 62GS SBGH368

Starting with that case, it measures 38mm in rose gold following the classic style of the 62GS. That means relatively blunt lugs that lead into flat, polished surfaces that flow along the length of the watch. The 62GS is also Grand Seiko’s bezel-less design, meaning the sapphire crystal rises directly from the surface of the case rather than sitting below the lip of a bezel. It gives the model a very distinct appearance, standing out from GS’s other collections.

Grand Seiko Sakura-Kakushi 18k Rose Gold 62GS SBGH368

Beneath the crystal is the silver-tone textured dial. It’s actually quite a deceptive colour because the metallic surface reflects the rosy tint of the gold case, hour markers and hands, making it seem pinker than it actually is, especially at a distance. The use of the silver is designed to represent the snow portion of the Sakura-Kakushi inspiration, with the gentle imprint of the cherry blossom texture showing through from beneath the powder. Plus, not all cherry blossom is pink, with plenty examples being white instead.

Completing the display are sharply bevelled hands in a dauphine style that matches the angular baton hour markers and date window. The movement powering the hands and date is the 9S85 hi-beat automatic with 55-hour power reserve. As a hi-beat movement it operates at a frequency of 36,000 bph, which is the pulse rate of the balance wheel, increasing overall accuracy.

Grand Seiko Sakura-Kakushi 18k Rose Gold 62GS SBGH368

It’s presented on a brown crocodile leather strap, which in combination with the golden case makes this the priciest 62GS model in the current range at £31,200. Not terribly surprising given the industry wide price rises we’ve seen for gold watches in the past few years. The precious metal is becoming more precious by the day it feels. Though personally if I were to invest in a gold dress watch, the Grand Seiko Sakura-Kakushi 18k Rose Gold 62GS would probably be up there due to its intricate texture and distinctive case.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Grand

Seiko Sakura-Kakushi 18k Rose Gold 62GS

Ref:
SBGH368

Case:
38mm

diameter x 12.9mm thickness, 18k rose gold

Dial:
Copper-pink

inspired by Spring in Tohoku

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Grand

Seiko calibre 9S85, automatic, 37 jewels

Frequency:
36,000

vph (5 Hz)

Power reserve:
55h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date

Strap:
Brown

crocodile leather with 18k rose gold three fold clasp

Price:
£31,200

More details at Grand Seiko.

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Czapek Promenade Plissé Showcases New Stamped Dial Texture

Czapek Promenade Plissé Rose

Czapek Promenade Plissé Rose

Its been almost a year since Czapek debuted their newest collection, the Promenade, with the launch of the Goutte D’eau. With its rippled grand feu enamel dial, it’s an impressive work of art that sold out almost instantly. How do you follow that up? Well, Czapek’s answer is the new Promenade Plissé.

If you’re not up on your French, Plissé means pleated, as in the sharp folds of fabric used in certain clothing styles, typically dresses and skirts. The relevance of the name is immediately available to see across the dial with its sharp ridges and asymmetrical pleated facets. Like the Goutte D’eau, the asymmetry stems from the small seconds subdial at 4:30, with Czapek describing the subdial as a heavy weight dropped onto a pleated fabric and distorting the shape.

Czapek Promenade Plissé Pearl White

In order to create the dial Czapek worked with their partners at Metalem to develop a new stamping technique capable of creating the sharp, angular pattern. A further consideration in the design of the dial is the applied indexes, which rest atop the pleats. It was important to make sure they fit within the contours of the dial in a visually satisfying manner, which is why they sit at satisfying angles in relation to the pleats around them such as 90 degrees, 45 degrees, etc.

Czapek Promenade Plissé Rose
Czapek Promenade Plissé Ivory

Building on the whole idea of a fabric dial, the Czapek Promenade Plissé comes in three colours commonly seen in tailoring: rose, ivory and pearl white. It’s a good assortment of colours that’s flexible enough to make the model feel unisex. That’s despite the surface level femininity of the pink and also the smaller 38mm size of the steel case. Though with the recent popularity of vintage proportions I think it’s contentious to even suggest 38mm is specifically feminine.

Beneath the pleated dial is the in-house calibre SXH5, a micro-rotor movement with a 60-hour power reserve. It powers the central hours and minutes with partially skeletonised hands as well as the off-set small seconds subdial. It’s visible through an exhibition caseback allowing you to admire the micro-rotor and delicate, exposed bridges.

Czapek Promenade Plissé Pearl White
Czapek Promenade Plissé Ivory
Czapek Promenade Plissé Rose

In terms of availability, each of the three Czapek Promenade Plissé colours is limited to 18 pieces, meaning there’s a total of 54 up for grabs. Considering that’s half the number of Goutte D’eau that were produced, I expect the Plissé to sell out just as fast, especially considering that on paper it should be more accessible than its enamel predecessor.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Czapek

Promenade Plissé

Case:
38mm

diameter x 10.8mm thickness, stainless steel case

Dial:
Stamped

brass pearl white, ivory or rose

Water resistance:
50m

(5 bar)

Movement:
Czapek

calibre SXH5.1, automatic, micro-rotor, 26 jewels, 127 parts

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
60h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Nubuck

leather or stainless steel beads of rice bracelet

Price:
CHF

16,000 (approx. £14,200)

More details at Czapek.

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Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti Horological Machine is Shaped Like a Snake Head

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti

In case you missed it, 2025 is the Year of the Snake in the Chinese zodiac so watchmakers of all stripes have launched serpentine watches. However, for Bulgari snake watches are just business as usual because they’ve been producing the Serpenti collection since 1948. How then do you make your snake watch extra special in the Year of the Snake? Answer: you collaborate with one of the most innovative brands in the entire industry to create the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti Horological Machine.

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti

Horological Machines are incredibly complex watches with dynamic, unusual shapes that are inspired by a wide range of concepts from sci-fi to motoring to animals. The Serpenti edition is shaped like the head of a snake, with large sapphire crystal eyes and pupils formed of the rotating hour and minute disks. It’s almost a ‘miss the wood for the trees’ situation because depending on what area of the watch you focus on, you sometimes see it as a watch and sometimes the snake really jumps out.

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti

Focussing on the case specifically, it took numerous iterations due to the complexity of its curved surfaces and the precision needed to ensure it looks great from any angle. It measures 53mm x 39mm x 18mm and is available in three choices of material. The titanium offers a silver-grey tone with blue disks for the eyes, there’s then rose gold with green and a steel edition in black PVD with menacing red eyes.

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti
Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti

Suspended above and between the two eye disks is the balance wheel. Flying balance wheels are an MB&F signature, though here they’ve used the supporting bridges to shoutout the collaboration with both brands’ logos positioned prominently. It beats at a frequency of 18,000 vph (2.5Hz), which is a little low by today’s standards but was important to the brands in linking the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti Horological Machine to watchmaking tradition, as that beat rate is very traditional, as modern hi-beat 5Hz movements are a relatively recent development as far as the industry goes.

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti

The movement, unsurprisingly, is a bespoke one created by MB&F specially for this watch due to the unique shape of the case. If you’re familiar with your MB&F movements, you’ll recognise that its based largely on the HM10. It has a 42-hour power reserve that you can track with the indicator on the watch’s underside. It’s manually wound by one of the large crowns on the flank of the snake’s neck with the other controlling the time setting. Amusingly I do think the dual crowns make it look a little like Frankenstein’s Snake, neck bolts and all.

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti

In terms of production, MB&F say they are able to produce around six to eight of the watch’s movement each month. Considering that the three colourways are each a limited edition of 33 pieces, that means it will take roughly a full calendar year to deliver the complete collection. As for price, the titanium and steel PVD editions are CHF 132,000 excl. VAT (approx. £116,900) while the rose gold is CHF 152,000 excl. VAT (approx. £134,600). Expensive yes, but also for the kind of watch you can imagine on a poster in a small boy’s room, priceless. 12-year-old me would think that black PVD edition with red eyes is badass and to be honest, current me thinks the same.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Bulgari

x MB&F Serpenti Horological Machine

Ref:
IW395601

Case:
53mm

height x 39mm width x 18mm thickness, 18k rose gold, grade 5 titanium or black PVD stainless steel

Dial:
Green,

blue or red dual disc

Water resistance:
30m

(3 bar)

Movement:
Manual-winding

MB&F in-house movement

Power reserve:
45h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, power reserve indicator

Strap:
Hand

stitched blue, black or green rubber

Price:
CHF

132,000 excl. VAT (approx. £116,900) (PVD steel and titanium, CHF 152,000 excl. VAT (approx. £134,600) (18k rose gold), limited to 33 pieces each

More details at MB&F.

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Rolex Watch Predictions for 2025

Rolex Predictions 2025

Rolex Predictions 2025

It’s a long-running joke that everyone in the industry tries to predict Rolex’s watch release slate and 99% of people get it wrong. No one foresaw the arrival of the 1908 in 2023 and even fewer people suspected the full gold Deepsea of 2024. However, it’s still fun to give it a go and hope that maybe this will be the year that Rolex actually revive the Coke after years of collectors asking for it. In honesty you could read this article as ‘Rolexes we’d like the see’.

Rolex GMT-Master II Coke

Rolex GMT Master II Coke Prediction

We are just as keen for the revival of the Rolex GMT-Master II Coke as everyone else. It’s almost a meme at this point how many people predict the return of this legend from the 1990s, which was sadly discontinued in 2007. Collectors across the world have been clamouring for the Coke to make a comeback for years at this point. And 2025 might just be the occasion as it marks the 70th anniversary of the official launch of the original GMT-Master in 1955.

A modern interpretation of the Coke would feature the signature black and red bezel which garnered the model its coke affiliation. It would fit in alongside the current collection with the Calibre 3285 with 70-hour power reserve although Rolex may use the opportunity to release an upgraded movement as well. It would certainly get collectors hot under the collar.

Rolex Perpetual 1908 Moonphase

Rolex Perpetual 1908 Moonphase Prediction

The possibility of Rolex expanding on the 1908 collection feels very likely and I think it’s a shrewd prediction. When the collection was launched in 2023 no one expected Rolex to touch the new model for a while and yet they came back in 2024 with the 1908 Guilloché, not only immediately expanding on the range but introducing a brand new style of finishing to the Maison.

A natural prediction is for Rolex to release a 1908 Moonphase model, which would finally complete the passing of the torch between the discontinued Cellini range and the 1908. The Cellini Moonphase was the final model to be discontinued so the significance of adding the complication to the 1908 is clear. Plus, as a dress watch model it would really suit the 1908 with its 39mm sizing. On top of the fact that the small seconds display on the standard model is the perfect position for the lunar complication.

Stone Dial Rolexes

Rolex Datejust Malachite Prediction

Stone dials are having their time in the spotlight at the moment and Rolex have never been one to shy away from precious mineral dials. Whether that’s a stone dial Datejust or something more outlandish like a Submariner stone dial variant. Of the two, the Datejust seems like the collection more likely to see the addition of malachite, tiger’s eye, jade, onyx or any other precious/semi-precious mineral. It’s also the collection’s 80th anniversary. Although given last year’s full gold 3,900m diver, I wouldn’t put a luxurious rendition of the Submariner completely out of the question.

Stone dial watches have been in the zeitgeist recently with launches from Berneron really capturing people’s attention. Rolex are themselves no strangers to stone dials with the Day-Date 36 currently available with eisenkiesel, turquoise or green aventurine. It would be exciting to see these materials make their way to other collections.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rolesor

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rolesor Bi-Colour Prediction
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rolesor Bi-Colour Black Dial Prediction

With the rumoured discontinuation of the Oyster Perpetual Celebration bubble dial, there will be a gap in the Oyster Perpetual collection for a new, fun model. The perfect addition to the range would be an Oyster Perpetual Rolesor model, combining oystersteel with gold for a luxe bi-metallic look. Rolesor is Rolex’s name for bi-metal and bi-colour watches that feature steel cases with golden bezels and golden links down the centre of their bracelets.

Similar to the GMT-Master II Coke, this would actually be the revival of an old style of watch that Rolex used to produce. The Oyster Perpetual Date was available in steel and yellow gold from 1988 to the mid-2000s, giving it a similar production run to the Coke as well. Given the increased interest in neo-vintage watches, perhaps 2025 is the year that 1990s Rolex designs make their comeback.

Rolex Explorer II ‘Polar Evolution’

Rolex Explorer White Ceramic Bezel Prediction
Rolex Explorer Black Ceramic Bezel Prediction

One of the more niche predictions is the possibility of a Rolex Explorer II ‘Polar Evolution’. A refresh of the Ref. 226570 with improved legibility due to the increased presence of chromalight lume across the dial and bezel. It would also upgrade that metallic bezel to a ceramic one (perhaps in both the white and black variants), totally altering the aesthetic of the 24-hour GMT scale and bringing it closer in style to the GMT-Master II.

While an update like this won’t be at the top of everyone’s wishlists, I do think it’s actually on the more realistic end of the spectrum. It’s been a few years since Rolex did anything with the Explorer range and it’s lowkey one of their coolest collections. A spruce up and quality of life update to the series would be seriously welcome. Although perhaps the moniker ‘Polar Evolution’ is a prediction too far.

Disclaimer: All images used are not official Rolex imagery and have been created by us for illustration purposes only

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Oracle Discovers: Watch Accessories for February 2025

NDCstraps Original NDC Strap Green with Yellow Stripe

Johnson’s Of Lichfield Bespoke Winder Safe £12,000

Johnsons of Lichfield Bespoke Winder Safe

Johnson’s of Lichfield are a luxury safe retailer specialising in designing robust custom watch and jewellery safes for your home. This elegant, modern safe from their Luxe range includes custom chrome bolt pockets and hardware, as well as reliable Rapport Watch Winders. These beautiful pieces of furniture are all made to order, letting the client choose their exact specification. A practical and great addition to any watch collector’s home. Additionally, they are insurance approved.

Available at Johnson’s of Lichfield.

NDCstraps Original NDC Strap Green with Yellow Stripe, £60

NDCstraps Original NDC Strap Green with Yellow Stripe

Established in 2015, UK company NDC straps owned by Jacko, offers high-quality straps using original, genuine mil-spec Navy parachute elastic. Continuing the tradition of Elite French Navy divers who, in the sixties and seventies, cut lengths from their reserve parachute cases to construct durable straps, NDC was the first maker of this type of strap and exclusively continues this unique tradition. As proof of quality, NDC straps are featured in Tudor boutique displays.

Available at NDCstraps.

Barrington Watch Winder Six Watch Winder, £995

Barrington Watch Winder Six Watch Winder

For the dedicated watch lover, Barrington provide the Six watch winder to keep your watches on time. This stylish office, study, or bedroom accessory can rotate six watches at once, each with their own individual programming to ensure each piece is maintained as recommended by its manufacturer. On the technical side, it has a feature that sees watches all stop facing up in the 12 o’clock position after winding and a prudent fingerprint lock mechanism to deter the casual  thief. On the aesthetic side, the carbon fibre- effect interior is lit up by soft LED downlighting.  ,

Available at Barrington.

Northstar Straps Deploy

Northstar Straps Deploy
Northstar Straps Deploy

Northstar Straps’ premium sailcloth watch straps have been designed to be worn and to perform. Made from premium Oxford sailcloth fabric and lined with natural caoutchouc rubber, their straps are water resistant, comfortable and quickly conform to your wrist. The rubber keeps you cool and dry and the high-quality sailcloth fabric provides a tough, wear resistant finish, which is secured to your wrist with their signature 316L stainless steel buckle.

Available at Northstar Straps.

Nano Clear Watch Renewal Kit, $110

Nano Clear

Scuffs and scrapes happen, it’s a fact of life. We’ve all heard the nightmare stories of people catching their watches on door handles and the fearsome environment that is the beach with all its sand and rocks. Nano Clear have got you covered with their Watch Renewal Kit, designed to clean and polish your timepieces while protecting their value. Plus, as it’s do it yourself you can monitor and manage the process directly instead of trusting the blunt force of a machine or third-party who doesn’t know the intimacies of your watch.

Available at Nano Clear.

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G-Shock SG releases previously unseen GM-2100YMG-9A9 and GM-5600YM-8A8 in Fine Metallic Series, coming to other countries

G-Shock SG releases previously unseen GM-2100YMG-9A9 and GM-5600YM-8A8 in Fine Metallic Series, coming to other countries G-Shock GM-2100YMG-9A9 and GM-5600YM-8A8Casio Singapore released the G-Shock Fine Metallic Series including the four models previously covered, along with the previously unseen GM-2100YMG-9A9 (S$449) and GM-5600YM-8A8 (S$349). These two models were not released with the other four in Japan in January and are expected to be released in other countries, including the Philippines and United States. According to […]

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Richard Benc Discusses his Watch Collection, Studio Underd0g and Streetwear

Richard Benc

Richard Benc

It’s impossible to talk about the modern state of the British watch industry without referencing Studio Underd0g. The brand has gone from quirky watermelon-coloured chronographs to partnering with H. Moser & Cie via a genuinely inventive field watch in a timeframe that puts Swiss stalwarts to shame. Behind the success however is still one man: Richard Benc. While the time of him running every aspect of the brand himself have long since passed, he’s still the driving force behind the label’s meteoric success and sold-out limited editions. So, with so much of his own personality poured into Studio Underd0g, we thought we were overdue a chat to find out more about the man behind the brand.

What was the last watch you bought? (preferably not a Studio Underd0g)

I don’t buy Studio Underd0g watches as I get to ‘user-trial’ the samples, as does my wife! The last watch that I bought was actually an old Breguet. I bought it from Subdial last week. I saw it on their socials a few times and over the course of a few days, made the decision to pick it up. It’s a piece from the early 1990s, and is as old as I am, although it’s aged more gracefully than I have! It’s just such a cool watch because there’s so many unique design elements to it that are just so through and through Breguet, but at a distance and they all kind of work cohesively together to just make it like an ultimate dress watch.

Vintage Breguet
Vintage Breguet

Vintage Breguet

Is it your first watch from a prestige brand like that?

It’s my first gold watch although I’ve got a fairly eclectic collection ranging from trusted Swiss houses such as Tudor, Rolex and Longines, to various independents and micros, as well as some cool vintage pieces that I’ve picked up recently. I have an old Girard-Perregaux that I bought on eBay in non-working condition for a couple of hundred quid and got patched up. My knowledge of vintage is near zero. So, it’s very much a case of what I think looks good!

Do you collect anything outside of watches?

I used to collect sneakers. I’d say I don’t collect them in the same way that I once did, much to the delight of my wife as I no longer have a wall dedicated to various kicks! Fortunately watches take up far less space.

Nike Desert Sky
Studio Underd0g Desert Sky

Nike Desert Sky and Studio Underd0g Desert Sky

Is there a particular pair that’s the pride of your collection?

I have a pair of Nike Air Max 97s called Desert Sky, and they were an inspiration for, you guessed it, the Studio Underd0g Desert Sky colourway. So, Nike, please don’t sue me. Virgil Abloh did a collaboration with Nike and he did a version on a Nike Dunk in the months leading up to his passing. So that’s a pair that I really like. He had such an interesting approach and brought many new ideas to streetwear in general. When I’m coming up with new ways to market my own brand I often wonder, “what would Virgil do?”

What, other than a watch, is at the top of your wish list?

Currently top of my wish list is a 28cm non-stick frying pan. A recent find/discovery? Since AP’s latest release, I’d say I’ve ‘discovered’ KAWS. I was aware of the brand’s existence through my interest in streetwear, but didn’t know much about its origins. I’ve walked past the 32ft KAWS sculpture in Doha airport many times and have never given it a second look. Learning about how Brian Donnelly went from a kid graffitiing the streets of NYC to a creative powerhouse is fascinating to me.

Kaws Statue

KAWS sculpture in Doha airport

What inspires you?

Everything and anything! It’s clear to see from the products that I offer, inspiration can come from a colourful fruit, or a pair of sneakers, nothing is off limits! This year I’ve found that most of my inspiration has come from people in the form of a creative conversation. I love when a five-minute phone call turns into an hour of bouncing ideas around and a concept snowballs into shape.

A book, podcast, or album that changed the way you think?

Elephunk.

Who is a celebrity/person of note/intellectual you admire?

I’ve already mentioned Virgil Abloh, but I’ll mention him again as he’s been someone I’ve admired for a long time. He did an excellent lecture at Harvard which is available to watch in full on YouTube naturally titled, Insert Complicated Title Here. He provides so many insights into his creative process during the one-hour lecture, many of which resonate with me as I’ve built my own brand based around product.

Virgil Abloh

Virgil Abloh

What’s your ideal long weekend?

In a few weeks I’m heading to a relatively secluded lodge in the south east of England for a long weekend. I rarely get the chance to truly ‘switch off’ these days, and have only successfully managed to do so once in the last four years or so as I’m constantly ideating what’s next for Studio Underd0g. I’m conscious that I need to take more time to smell the roses, but it’s easier said than done when I’m doing something that I love!

What would we always find in your fridge?

Huel. I’m the type of person who thinks I’m already running behind as soon as I wake up, so I’m either skipping breakfast in totality, or having a Huel on my walk into the office!

What’s a rule or mantra that you live by?

“If anything can be misunderstood, it will be.” I think this is a critical mantra for anyone that works in a creative space, and especially for product development. One of my friends started a golf tee business a few years ago, and he spoke to a supplier about ordering some samples of a tee with two green stripes printed around the tee. The artwork that he got back was of a t-shirt with two green stripes across it…

H. Moser Studio Underd0g Passion Collaboration

H. Moser Studio Underd0g Passion Collaboration

What does the year ahead look like for you?

2025 is the year of collaboration for Studio Underd0g. Collaborations enable stories to be formed and told in a way that often one singular voice or brand can’t do alone. Often people expect an end product to define the success or failings of a brand, but I believe when people can connect to a story or the journey, the end product is so much more meaningful.

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This limited edition full titanium G-Shock square is available new for $549.99

This limited edition full titanium G-Shock square is available new for $549.99 G-Shock GMW-B5000TCF-2 Watch DisplayJomashop is currently offering the limited edition and discontinued G-Shock GMW-B5000TCF-2 in new condition for $549.99 (with international shipping available). It states that this is 63% off, but the original price was $1,700 and not $1,500, so it’s actually more like 68% off. Jomashop is not an authorized Casio G-Shock dealer, but it does have […]

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10 Years of Isotope: a Decade of British Watch Design

Isotope Watches

Isotope The Rider Jumping Hour

The Rider Jumping Hour

While the name Gerald Genta is synonymous with 1970s sports luxe – your Royals Oak and Nautili – the man was more than a one-trick pony, even if that pony completely upended the watch world. The legendary designer had plenty of feathers in his horological cap that weren’t industrially luxurious, things like his famous Jumping Hours. On the one hand, with that kind of fame comes a price tag to match; on the other, we now have British brand Isotope.

So, how do those two things line up? Well, when in 2015 collector Jose Miranda couldn’t afford the shiny new Gerald Genta Jumping Hours, he did what every sane person does and decided to build his own. It’s a story we’ve heard before from the microbrand sphere – in fact, frustration at mainstream pricing seems to be the single biggest impetus for independent brand launches. But this was now a decade ago, back when ‘microbrand’ wasn’t the ubiquitous term it is today. It was also early enough in the lifespan of microbrands that just drop-shipping some Chinese-made, off-the-shelf watches wasn’t an option, at least not when it came to something as off-kilter as a Jumping Hours. That meant only one thing: a lot of hard graft. The result? The Rider Jumping Hour.

Isotope Goutte d’Eau

Goutte d’Eau

The Rider was self-evidently inspired by the Streamline Moderne movement, a beautifully rounded piece reminiscent of Pallweber with a distinctively modern dial and six o’clock jumping hour. Most strikingly, the Rider also included the ‘Lacrima’ shape, a teardrop on the dial that has since become an Isotope signature. The run of 99 pieces sold out in no time. Next came the Goutte d’Eau, another modern reimagining of a classic horological archetype, this time the compression diver. It had much the same style as the Rider, complete with the ‘Lacrima’ front and centre, but with a diver-centric sandwich dial and inner rotating bezel. It was one of the more original diving watches of its era, enough that when a new edition comes out in 2025, it’ll barely need changing.

Isotope Hydrium Alba Scottish Watches

The Hydrium, however, was the watch that really put Isotope on the British watch map. Sure, it was a professional grade diver, but it was one that leaned heavily on the fun factor, with colour combinations that your average Submariner homage wouldn’t dare touch. They had a distinctly British flavour, doubly true of the green exit sign-inspired HydriumX, the first flurry of what would quickly become an avalanche of sold-out limited editions.

Most brands having finally broken through into the ‘no-longer-micro’ brand arena, would take some time, take a breath and consolidate. Release a few more editions of your more popular models, carefully test what works and what doesn’t and don’t upset the boat. Not so Isotope.

Isotope Murcury

Murcury

Last year welcomed what I reckon is their coolest watch yet, the Mercury. Partly, that was to do with the incredible, mirrored steel collaborative edition Isotope produced with Revolution, a monochromatic beauty of shimmering curves. But also because it marked a new approach for Isotope, a more serious one. There were no flamboyant colours, no charming chunkiness, no Lacrima. Instead, the Mercury has been a platform for highlighting serious artisanal techniques – albeit still in Isotope’s accessible price range.

Isotope Mercury Marquetry

Mercury Marquetry

Marquetry, for example, is generally regarded as one of the most demanding feats of artisanry around, a micro-mosaic of tiny organic elements. And so, the Mercury Marquetry made with tiny pieces of straw, came into existence. And soon to join it are the likes of vitreous enamel, in the UK normally the purview of anOrdain alone, and Cloisonné enamel, creating pictures from gold wire filled with enamel. In fact you can check out the latter right now as it’s one of Isotope’s British Watchmakers’ Day special editions. Isotope have been known to drop some cool stuff without fanfare. At the very least, vitreous enamel sounds like something we here at Oracle can get on board with. Watch this space.

Isotope Chronograph Compax Moonshot

Compax Moonshot

‘But’, I hear you say, ‘I want something sportier, something less tied to all this fancy metiers d’art!’ Well, at the same time as the Mercury, Isotope also launched the Compax Moonshot chronograph, which genuinely innovates with its borderline insane case construction, allowing the time to be read easier than ever before. While the Moonshot is aesthetically a world apart from the Mercury – around 385,000km away – there’s still something distinctly ‘Isotope’ about them both. That’s reassuring as, with plenty more launches on the horizon (36mm case anyone?), the worry is that the brand stretches itself too far, that it tries too hard to do too many things. But when each is done with this level of confidence, that doesn’t seem like something to be too concerned about. At the very least, I hope that Jose finally manages to get himself a Gerald Genta Jumping Hours. He deserves it.

More details at Isotope.

​Oracle Time 

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