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Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM Continues Crystal Rainbow Series

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM

Back in 2021 we covered the release of the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Orange Sapphire. A watch that stood out for its impressive use of coloured sapphire crystal, a material that’s notoriously difficult to produce. In the introduction to that article I quipped that Hublot had almost completed the sapphire rainbow and in the years since they’ve done their best to complete the colour spectrum. However, some colours are simply too difficult to make in sapphire, which brings us to the new Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM

SAXEM is a crystal material that shares many similarities to sapphire crystal such as its translucent appearance and high scratch resistance. However, there is a crucial difference. Where sapphire crystal has a triangular structure at a molecular level, SAXEM is cubic. This fundamentally changes how light passes through the material and completely changes what is possible to achieve in terms of colour and intensity.

The rich emerald tone of the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM is impossible to achieve in traditional sapphire crystal. The same is true of the neon yellow edition they released back in 2023. Evidently there is a quality about the green-yellow spectrum that is ill suited for sapphire but that works great in SAXEM.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM

As for the watch itself, it’s the same Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic as we’ve known for more than half a decade at this point, although the SAXEM versions sit at 44mm as opposed to their sapphire counterparts that are 43mm or 45mm, depending on the colour. It has a skeletonised display with central hours and minutes, and a tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Considering that it’s a skeleton, it’s actually a very dark dial with grey Arabic numerals and a smoky grey sapphire disk below the time indication.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM

The movement on display is the MHUB6035, which has a 72-hour power reserve supplied by the micro-rotor visible at 12 o’clock. Interestingly, the rotor is presented on the dial side of the piece, which means the exhibition caseback offers and uninterrupted view of the movement in the same manner as a manual timepiece.

In terms of price, the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM is a clean £200,000 in a limited edition of 18 pieces. This watch is unapologetically Hublot. It’s big, it’s brash, it’s colourful but it’s also impressive on a structural and mechanical level. Not to mention it feels like they’re only scratching the surface of what is possible with SAXEM.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Hublot

Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM

Ref:
429.JG.0110.RT

Case:
44mm

diameter x 14.4mm thickness, polished green Saxem

Dial:
Smoked

black sapphire

Water resistance:
30m

(3 bar)

Movement:
Hublot

calibre MHUB6035, automatic, 26 jewels

Frequency:
21,600

vph (3 Hz)

Power reserve:
72h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, tourbillon

Strap:
Black

lined rubber with black ceramic and black-plated titanium deployant buckle clasp with additional green transparent lined rubber and black velcro fastener fabric microblasted black ceramic sport buckle

Price:
£200,000,

limited to 18 pieces

More details at Hublot.

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Choosing the Right Fitness Tracker Watch: Key Features and Considerations

Fitness Tracker Watches

With the growing popularity of fitness tracking technology, it can be overwhelming to choose the right fitness tracker watch that suits your needs. From basic step counting to advanced health metrics, the variety of features available can make the decision-making process complicated. This article will guide you through the most important aspects to look for when choosing a fitness tracker, including the key features, their accuracy, robustness, and suitability for different activities.

1. Purpose and Use Case

The first step when selecting a fitness tracker is to identify what you want to achieve with it. Are you focused on weight loss, improving athletic performance, or simply tracking your general health? Different fitness trackers cater to different needs. For example:

  • General Wellness: If you’re looking to track basic metrics like steps, heart rate, and sleep, a simple tracker with core features like the Fitbit Charge or Xiaomi Mi Band might be sufficient.
  • Athletic Performance: If you’re a serious athlete, you’ll need a tracker that can measure more advanced metrics, such as VO2 max, GPS tracking, and running dynamics. Models like the Garmin Forerunner or Coros Pace excel in this area.
  • Health Monitoring: Some fitness trackers are designed for users with specific health concerns. Devices like the Apple Watch or Whoop Strap offer heart rate variability (HRV) tracking and advanced sleep analysis to help with recovery and overall health.

2. Key Features to Look For

When shopping for a fitness tracker, certain features should be a top priority. Here are some of the most important:

a. Heart Rate Monitoring

A reliable heart rate monitor is essential for assessing workout intensity and ensuring you’re staying within your target zones. Many fitness trackers now feature continuous heart rate monitoring, which provides data throughout the day, not just during exercise. This is crucial for tracking overall health trends.

Some of the most accurate heart rate monitors are found in Garmin, Polar, and Apple Watch devices. The accuracy of wrist-based heart rate monitors has improved significantly in recent years, but chest strap monitors are still considered more reliable for high-intensity workouts.

b. GPS Tracking

If you’re an outdoor runner, cyclist, or hiker, GPS functionality is vital for tracking distance, pace, and route without needing to carry your phone. GPS-equipped fitness trackers like the Garmin Forerunner or Polar Vantage are excellent for precise location tracking.

Ensure that the tracker has multi-sport tracking if you participate in various activities. Some trackers can automatically recognize your activity, while others require you to manually select the workout mode.

c. Sleep Monitoring

Understanding your sleep patterns is essential for optimizing recovery. A sleep tracker monitors the different stages of your sleep cycle, including light, deep, and REM sleep. Fitness trackers like the Oura Ring and Fitbit Charge provide detailed sleep analysis, including insights on sleep quality and tips for improvement.

d. Battery Life

Battery life is one of the most practical features when choosing a fitness tracker. Some trackers need to be charged every night, while others can last for days or even weeks. Fitness trackers like the Garmin Fenix series can last up to two weeks on a single charge, while devices like the Apple Watch require daily charging.

Consider how often you want to charge your device and whether you need a long-lasting battery for long outdoor activities, such as hiking or running ultra-distances.

e. Water Resistance

If you plan on using your fitness tracker while swimming or during water-based activities, look for one with water resistance. Many fitness trackers are rated with IP68 or 5 ATM, meaning they can be submerged in water for a certain period without damage. Some advanced models, like the Garmin Swim or Apple Watch Series, are specifically designed for swimming, offering lap counting, stroke analysis, and more.

f. Activity and Fitness Tracking

A comprehensive fitness tracker should monitor a wide range of activities, such as walking, running, cycling, yoga, and even weightlifting. Choose a tracker that allows you to log your preferred activities.

Advanced metrics may also include VO2 max, cadence, stride length, and running dynamics, all of which are beneficial for runners and cyclists. Devices like the Garmin Forerunner and Polar Grit are packed with such data.

g. Smart Features

Many fitness trackers double as smartwatches, providing functionalities like notifications for calls, texts, and app alerts. Smart features like music control, voice assistants, and even contactless payments can make your fitness tracker more versatile. The Apple Watch, for instance, offers seamless integration with the iPhone for a full smart experience.

3. Accuracy

Accuracy is crucial for most fitness trackers, as you rely on the data for health insights, workout performance, and progress tracking. However, accuracy can vary depending on the sensor technology used. Some trackers are more accurate for specific metrics:

  • Heart Rate: Wrist-based heart rate monitors can sometimes underperform during high-intensity workouts compared to chest straps, though newer models like the Polar H10 chest strap and Apple Watch have made strides in this area.
  • Step Counting: Most fitness trackers provide reasonably accurate step counting, but some, like the Fitbit Charge and Xiaomi Mi Band, tend to outperform others due to their refined algorithms.
  • GPS Accuracy: GPS-enabled trackers are usually highly accurate for outdoor activities. However, if you run in areas with poor satellite visibility (like dense forests or urban canyons), the GPS signal may be less reliable. Models like the Garmin Fenix 7 have been praised for their superior GPS accuracy.

4. Robustness

Fitness trackers need to be durable, especially for athletes or outdoor enthusiasts who put their devices through harsh conditions. Look for a tracker that is shockproof, waterproof, and can withstand extreme temperatures. Devices like the Garmin Fenix series and Suunto 9 are built with robust designs suitable for tough environments.

Check for military-grade durability ratings (e.g., MIL-STD-810G), which indicate that the tracker has been tested to withstand extreme conditions such as drops, high humidity, and dust exposure.

5. Suitability for Different Activities

When choosing a fitness tracker, make sure it suits the types of activities you engage in regularly. Here’s a quick rundown:

  • Running and Cycling: Garmin, Polar, and Coros offer models that cater to runners and cyclists with built-in GPS, cadence, and performance metrics.
  • Swimming: Garmin Swim and Apple Watch are specifically tailored to swimmers, with lap counting, stroke detection, and underwater heart rate monitoring.
  • Hiking and Outdoor Adventures: Garmin Fenix and Suunto 9 are perfect for hikers and outdoor adventurers with features like altimeters, barometers, and topographic maps.
  • General Fitness: For general fitness, trackers like the Fitbit Charge or Amazfit GTR provide solid tracking for daily activities, basic exercise routines, and sleep monitoring.

6. Price and Value for Money

Finally, the price is an important consideration. Fitness trackers range from budget-friendly options to high-end smartwatches. While more expensive models come with premium features, such as better sensors and longer battery life, there are affordable options that still provide excellent value for the average user.

Conclusion

When choosing a fitness tracker, consider your activity level, the metrics that matter most to you, and your budget. Features like heart rate monitoring, GPS, water resistance, and battery life should be top priorities. Also, ensure the tracker you select aligns with your fitness goals and is built to last through the activities you enjoy. By focusing on the right features, you can find a fitness tracker that helps you monitor your progress and achieve your health and fitness goals.

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The History of Women’s Luxury Watch Brands: A Journey Through Time

Womens Luxury Watch Brands History

Luxury watches are often associated with precision, craftsmanship, and exclusivity. While the luxury watch industry is historically dominated by male-oriented designs and branding, women’s luxury watches have their own rich history that reflects evolving trends in fashion, technology, and cultural shifts. These timepieces, ranging from classic to modern, carry the legacy of innovation, elegance, and sophistication.

Early Beginnings: Women’s Watches Emerge

The concept of a “women’s watch” began to take shape in the 16th and 17th centuries. Watches were initially bulky and worn on a chain as pocket watches or fobs, primarily used by men to track time. Women’s watches, in their earliest form, were smaller, worn as pendants or brooches. These pieces were considered more ornamental than practical, with intricate designs often crafted with precious metals and stones.

One of the earliest examples of women’s watches was the Breguet “Reine de Naples”, designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1812. This timepiece, commissioned for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples, was a breakthrough, not only for its technical excellence but also for its attention to feminine elegance. It was one of the first women’s watches to feature a case designed specifically for a woman’s wrist, blending luxury with utility.

The Rise of Swiss Craftsmanship and Iconic Brands

As the 19th century progressed, Switzerland became the global epicenter for luxury watchmaking. Swiss horology houses such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier began creating wristwatches for women that combined aesthetics with cutting-edge innovation.

Cartier

One of the most iconic luxury watch brands, Cartier revolutionized women’s watches with its bold and stylish designs. Cartier’s famous Santos de Cartier watch, introduced in 1904, was designed for aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. Although originally intended as a men’s watch, it quickly became popular among women for its elegance and practicality. Cartier’s penchant for combining precious metals, gemstones, and beautiful designs made it one of the first brands to truly cater to women’s luxury timepieces.

In the 1920s and 1930s, Cartier introduced more streamlined, sophisticated designs, including the Tank watch, which would become a symbol of timeless luxury. Its rectangular shape and minimalist aesthetic have made it a favorite among women, with countless style icons, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Princess Diana, wearing it over the years.

Patek Philippe

Known for its highly intricate movements and exceptional craftsmanship, Patek Philippe also pioneered women’s luxury timepieces. In the 1930s, the brand began producing watches that catered specifically to women’s tastes. These watches featured smaller cases, often adorned with diamonds and pearls, yet still maintained the technical excellence for which the brand is renowned. A landmark moment for Patek Philippe came in 1939 with the introduction of the Patek Philippe Calatrava, a dress watch that was beloved by women for its understated elegance.

The Mid-20th Century: The Age of Glamour and Celebrity Endorsements

The mid-20th century saw the luxury watch industry become increasingly glamorous. Women’s watches were not just functional accessories; they became symbols of wealth and social status. Timepieces were featured in the wardrobes of actresses and high-society women, further cementing their place as status symbols.

Rolex

During this period, Rolex expanded its collection to include more gender-neutral and women’s watches. Known for its robust and reliable craftsmanship, Rolex introduced smaller versions of its famous models, such as the Datejust and the Oyster Perpetual, which quickly became favorites among affluent women.

Rolex watches, such as the Lady Datejust, were worn by stars like Marilyn Monroe, whose association with the brand elevated its status. The 1950s and 1960s also saw the introduction of the Rolex Pearlmaster, a luxury ladies’ watch featuring a bracelet of diamonds, which became a coveted item among collectors.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

The iconic Swiss brand Jaeger-LeCoultre was another key player in the 20th century evolution of women’s watches. The Reverso, which was introduced in the 1930s, featured a reversible case, making it a stylish and practical piece. It has been made in both men’s and women’s versions, often incorporating exquisite details such as enamel painting and diamonds, combining art and craftsmanship to create an iconic piece beloved by collectors and connoisseurs.

The New Millennium: Innovation Meets Fashion

The 21st century has ushered in an era of innovation in women’s luxury watches. The focus has shifted to high-tech features while still keeping the rich traditions of craftsmanship intact. New materials like ceramic, titanium, and even carbon fiber have been used to create stunning designs with greater durability. This era has also witnessed the rise of smart luxury watches, which blend cutting-edge technology with the timeless beauty of traditional watches.

Chopard

The Swiss brand Chopard is known for blending jewelry and watchmaking, creating some of the most luxurious watches for women in the world. The Happy Diamonds collection, introduced in 1976, features diamonds that float freely inside the watch case, a design innovation that revolutionized the concept of movement in luxury watches. Chopard’s commitment to both fine watchmaking and high jewelry continues to make it a top choice for women seeking a timepiece that is both beautiful and luxurious.

Audemars Piguet

In recent years, Audemars Piguet has emerged as a leader in crafting high-end timepieces for women. The Royal Oak collection, which was originally designed for men, was reinterpreted to suit a more feminine style while retaining its iconic aesthetic. The brand has created stunning diamond-encrusted versions of the Royal Oak, as well as models featuring intricate complications like moon phases and tourbillons.

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin’s women’s collection reflects the brand’s legacy of excellence in both design and technical innovation. The Métiers d’Art collection includes watches that feature exquisite handcraftsmanship, such as engraving, gem-setting, and enameling, turning each timepiece into a miniature work of art. These watches combine classic watchmaking techniques with the luxurious embellishments that women often desire in a fine timepiece.

Modern Trends and Future

Today, women’s luxury watches are as diverse as the women who wear them. The industry has expanded to embrace a wide range of styles, from sleek, minimalist designs to elaborate, jewel-encrusted timepieces. The demand for women’s watches with innovative features, such as automatic movements and water resistance, has also grown, alongside an increasing focus on sustainability and eco-friendly materials.

Luxury watch brands are continuing to expand their offerings to women with more technical features and designs that appeal to modern sensibilities, while still paying homage to their heritage. Women today are not only collectors of luxury watches but are increasingly seen as an influential force in shaping the future of watchmaking.

Conclusion

The history of women’s luxury watches is a story of elegance, innovation, and cultural transformation. From the early days of ornamental timepieces to the rise of Swiss craftsmanship and the iconic luxury brands we recognize today, women’s watches have evolved from accessories to status symbols that reflect both personal taste and technical excellence. As technology and fashion continue to evolve, so too will the luxurious timepieces created for women. Whether it’s a classic design or a modern, innovative creation, women’s luxury watches remain a symbol of grace, style, and precision—an enduring testament to the timeless relationship between women and horology.

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History Of Luxury Watches For Men

History Of Luxury Watches For Men

Welcome to the fascinating world of men’s luxury watches, where precision, craftsmanship, and style come together to create timeless pieces that transcend generations. But where did it all begin? The history of luxury watches for men is a story of innovation, artistry, and remarkable engineering—a journey that reflects the evolution of time itself.

The roots of luxury watches date back to the 16th century when mechanical clocks were invented. These early timepieces were large, bulky, and often mounted in towers. As technology advanced, smaller portable watches were created, sparking a new revolution. In the 19th century, Swiss watchmakers emerged as the undisputed leaders of watchmaking, pushing the boundaries of precision, elegance, and reliability.

By the 20th century, luxury watches were no longer just tools for telling time; they became symbols of success, wealth, and personal style. These exquisite pieces often featured intricate complications, such as chronographs, moon phases, and perpetual calendars, showcasing the genius of their creators.

Among the most iconic brands in the history of men’s luxury watches, you’ll find names like:

  1. Rolex – Perhaps the most famous luxury watch brand in the world, known for its impeccable craftsmanship and iconic models like the Submariner and the Datejust. Rolex watches are seen as the epitome of success and refinement.
  2. Patek Philippe – One of the oldest and most prestigious Swiss watch manufacturers, Patek Philippe is known for creating some of the finest mechanical timepieces in existence. The brand’s Calatrava and Nautilus collections are highly coveted.
  3. Omega – With a legacy that includes being the first watch on the moon, Omega has become synonymous with adventure and precision. Their Seamaster and Speedmaster collections are beloved by collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.
  4. Audemars Piguet – Famous for its bold designs, Audemars Piguet revolutionized the luxury watch world with the introduction of the Royal Oak, a steel watch that broke all conventions.
  5. Jaeger-LeCoultre – Known as the “watchmaker’s watchmaker,” Jaeger-LeCoultre has crafted some of the most intricate and beautiful movements, including their iconic Reverso model, which features a reversible case.

These brands represent not just watches, but the pinnacle of watchmaking, where each piece is an investment in art, engineering, and history. Whether it’s the meticulous assembly of gears or the stunning designs, each luxury watch tells a story—one that stretches across centuries, bridging time and style in a way few other objects can.

As you explore the history of these iconic timepieces, you’ll discover how these watches evolved from humble beginnings to become indispensable symbols of prestige and taste.

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Louis Vuitton Launches Tambour Convergence With a Precious Twist

Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence

Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence

There is no denying how significantly Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking at La Fabrique Du Temps has evolved. This culminated in the new 40mm Tambour, where Vuitton revitalised the integrated bracelet genre. That may sound overwrought, but the brand’s emphasis on modernity is significant in a world of reissues. What then of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence?

Ahead of LVMH Watch Week, we were expecting a delightful twist on the much-lauded Tambour. But these first images of the Tambour Convergence have surprised us. With this significant release, Louis Vuitton has taken 2025 by the horns with an unexpectedly new and understated look. Where the Tambour is modern in size and execution, the Tambour Convergence has its very own identity. This includes a smaller size (37mm) and, frankly, lugs to die for. If pressed for a term, call it retro-modern, but that doesn’t do justice to this important move by Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence

The first impression is of rakish charm and a big presence for its goldilocks size of only 37mm. Visible at first glance, the case of the Convergence is an all-new design by Vuitton. In a world of vintage reissues, LV offers a sleek emphasis on minimalism, taking inspiration from vintage ‘montres a guichet’ or ‘aperture watches’. This was a niche trend instigated in the thirties and often referenced in the desirable Cartier Tank a Guichet.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence

There is much to unpack within the new Tambour Convergence, and its beauty lies in exquisite detail work. The cambered, slightly tapering case shape and polished tapering crown are the only recognisable family traits in the 8mm case. There are two distinct models in the debut range, one in solid pink gold and the other a gem set version in platinum. Both have a distinctly brushed sides and the tambour case has a brand-new set of soldered lugs that gives a strong juxtaposed sense of modernity to the recognisable Tambour shape. Instead of a sapphire crystal, the slim brushed bezel frames a curved, solid precious metal plate with a fan-shaped twin display at 12 o’clock

Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence

What makes the Tambour Convergence so distinct is the modern, sculpted lugs. With their scalloped, sandblasted sides they contrast the flamboyant guichets or windows. The hour window offers a view of engraved serifed numerals on a circular-brushed disc, with the minute disc underneath. The numerals are filled with a deep blue lacquer, and the distinct Art Deco-inspired windows are set within a fan-shaped recess. In the pink gold reference W9PG11 this is sandblasted, as is a ring between the outer and inner parts of the polished precious metal front.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence

The French term guichet comes from a grill opening or ticket window, where two rotating discs with the hours and minutes are visible through small openings. We will forgive you if you haven’t seen this bygone concept before. Vuitton takes the idea of the Cartier, most collectors’ reference point, transforming the niche genre to perhaps spark an exciting new trend. You could also cite other independents like the visually similar but fundamentally different Andersen Geneve Jumping Hours. The Tambour Convergence has a quiet and balanced sense of proportionate elegance, with a refined play on contrasting finishes that is taken to another level with the ref. W9PT11 in platinum.

Both Louis Vuitton Convergence references have a capitalised logo at six o’clock. On the platinum version this is crafted into a fan-shaped plaque that balances out the guichets at 12. The entire centre section is set with a dazzling array of diamonds totalling 795, using a technique known as snow-setting, where all stones are fixed so closely that their settings cannot be discerned. It involves a highly experienced gem-setter who combines stones of various sizes to create one seamless glittering surface by hand. The Tambour Convergence in platinum utilises stones in seven sizes and requires 32 hours to complete. The watch is presented on a deep blue calf leather strap echoing the blue lacquer-filled hour and minute numerals.

The case of the Tambour Convergence is made in-house at the newly inaugurated La Fabrique des Boitiers. This is Vuitton’s new case-making facility, and the movement within is also new for the Convergence. The compact Calibre LFT MA01.01 is a slim, automatic movement developed entirely in-house, marking a significant step for the Manufacture. With sandblasted bridgework that exhibits micro-sandblasted edges, the juxtaposition of traditional and modern is continued from the case itself.

Contemporary chronometry standards are ensured by features that include a free-sprung balance with high-precision inertia blocks (masselots). For those who appreciate traditional watchmaking touches, details like the elegantly arched barrel click enhance the visual refinement of the Calibre LFT MA01.01. With this surprising release, we are already looking forward to seeing what other aces Louis Vuitton has up its bespoke sleeves this year.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Louis

Vuitton Tambour Convergence

Ref:
W9PG11

(Rose Gold) W9PT11 (Platinum)

Case:
37mm

diameter x 8mm thickness, polished and brushed Rose Gold or Platinum

Dial:
Precious

metal plate with twin arched windows, or guichets, at 12 o’clock showing rotating hour and minute discs

Water resistance:
30m

(3 bar)

Movement:
Louis

Vuitton manufacture Calibre LFT MA01.01, automatic, 18K pink gold oscillating weight, 26 jewels, 201 parts

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
45h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes

Strap:
Camel

or blue calf leather with beige calf lining

Price:
£32,500

(Rose Gold), £58,500 (Platinum)

More details at Louis Vuitton

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Casio AE-1600 series with large display and 10-year battery is like a square AE-1500

Casio AE-1600 series with large display and 10-year battery is like a square AE-1500 Casio AE-1600 Series with 10-Year Battery Life and 100-Meter Water ResistanceAmazon.com has the upcoming Casio AE-1600 series available for pre-ordering with a February 1 release date, but with an inexplicably high price of $77.94 for each model. In comparison, Casio Singapore has each model listed as coming soon for S$55 (around US$40). The very similar AE-1500 series has a list price of $29.95 per model […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

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Gerald Charles Introduce Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin and Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon for Their 25th Anniversary

Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli and Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon

Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli and Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon

Gerald Charles is turning 25. As most collectors will know, the man behind the brand is Gerald Genta (yes, that Gerald Genta), who made his legendary name in the 70s. But most of those famous designs – your Oaks Royale, Nautili, etc. – were commissions, not under his own label. Gerald Charles on the other hand was founded by him in 2000 and given the designer’s first and second name. So here we are, two-and-a-half decades later, and Gerald Charles are celebrating that fact with two new timepieces. On the one hand we have a magnificent tourbillon with a painstakingly hand-hammered dial; on the other, an ultra-thin number with a painstakingly made Lapis dial. They really don’t make things easy on themselves, do they?

Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon

Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon
Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon

The Maestro is one of the most distinctive watches in its rarefied realm of sports-adjacent dress watches. Created in 2005, the stepped, technically octagonal case was designed to show off a 6 o’clock tourbillon with that distinctive smile. In that sense, while the brand’s 2024 flagship finally brought in what Genta’s best known for – a gorgeous integrated bracelet – the Maestro 9.0 tourbillon is arguably the modern brand’s signature.

What sets this new version apart however is the dial. As alluded to earlier, rather than being engraved with some kind of pattern or texture, the white gold has been hammered by hand. The result is a beautiful, grained dial that by its very nature is irreplicable. And while I say ‘hammered’, the actual technique involved something more similar to a blunt chisel, a tiny, delicate tool that requires patience, precision and 23 hours minimum per dial. ‘Hammered’ suddenly doesn’t seem like the right word.

Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon

It’s worth pointing out that this isn’t the first time Gerald Charles has used this technique, with a previous version of the Maestro 9.0 offering the same in rose gold. Personally though, the cooler, white metal here showcases the hammered finish much better, especially with the colour matching stainless steel case. Not that it’s monochromatic, of course.

To add some punch and readability to the dial, the oversized Roman numerals at 12, 3 and 9 – the 60-second tourbillon takes over 6 – are stark white and bordered in blue, matching the Maestro’s stepped bezel, which has been given a blue coating for both hardness and colour. Though let’s be honest, mainly colour.

Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon
Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon

That said, there are some nods to practicality in the Maestro 9.0. It has 100m water resistance, a rarity for a tourbillon, and the case is made from a combination of steel and titanium. It also has 5G shock resistance, which is even rarer. Top that off with a 50-hour power reserve and you have a surprisingly durable, everyday wearable tourbillon. I mean, it’s no field watch, but it’s good to know.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Gerald

Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon

Ref:
GC9.0-A-RT-WG

Case:
39mm

width x 41mm height x 9.3mm thickness, stainless steel, white gold bezel

Dial:
Hand-hammered

white gold

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Swiss

Manufacture 9.0 calibre, automatic, 33 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
50h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, tourbillon

Strap:
Matte

blue alligator leather

Price:
Price

on request, limited to 50 pieces

Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli

Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli
Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli

While artisan hammering gets a lovely, natural grain, you can’t get better finishing than nature. Or at least geology. Semi-precious stone dials have been gaining popularity of late, but as is the case with most of his work, Gerald Genta was a fan before it was cool. Indeed, he had a particular penchant for Lapis Lazuli, the watchmaking world’s blue stone of choice. So what better gift for Gerald Charles’ 25th anniversary and a Lapis dial?

Rather than a tourbillon, which would cut out too much of the dial to make sense, the base here is the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin. It still has the same case shape as the rest of the Maestro line, but just 9mm thick. It’s not record breaking but my goodness it feels skinny on your wrist.

Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli
Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli

That thinness and the stone dial would obviously make you assume that this is a dress watch. But again, with 100m water resistance, some serious shock resistance and a 50-hour power reserve, it’s a good deal more practical than your standard gold number. The 39 x 41mm case is also in stainless steel, so it can take a knock or two if you’re particularly careless.

Set on a dial-matched blue rubber strap with its own splash of Clous de Paris, this is a watch that proves why Gerald Genta, even if under a slightly different name, was the master of sports luxe.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Gerald

Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli

Ref:
GC2.0-SSPS-LS-RSPN

Case:
39mm

width x 41mm height x 9mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Lapis

Lazuli stone

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Swiss

Manufacture 2.0 calibre, automatic, 28 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
50h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date

Strap:
Royal

blue vulcanised rubber

Price:
£16,700

More details at Gerald Charles.

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Hiroshima Toyo Carp to release limited G-Shock GA-2100 for 2025

Hiroshima Toyo Carp to release limited G-Shock GA-2100 for 2025 Hiroshima Toyo Carp x G-Shock GA-2100 for 2025 Wrist ShotThe latest G-Shock collaboration with the Hiroshima Toyo Carp professional baseball team is a G-Shock GA-2100 in black and red. The limited edition watch is made in Japan and features the Carp logo on the dial and the Carp Boy mascot engraved on the stainless steel case back. The watch offers a unique colorway with […]

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Sartory Billard Launch SB04-E Ruby Platinum and Tantalum Hand-Engraved Editions

Sartory Billard SB04-E

Sartory Billard SB04-E

If you’re unfamiliar with Sartory Billard, I recommend checking out our brand introduction from last summer. But the short version of the story is that they’re a French brand who specialise in bespoke and custom watches designed and built in collaboration with their customers. However, they also produce a handful of ‘ready to buy’ watches known as the Editions Collection. They recently expanded this collection with the new SB04-E Ruby Platinum limited edition and the non-limited SB04-E Tantalum Hand-Engraved.

Sartory Billard SB04-E

The SB04-E is the replacement for the now discontinued SB04 model. Eventually you’ll be able to customise it as part of the bespoke range, but at time of writing it’s still listed as coming soon in the bespoke section. The new model has a 39.5mm case in stainless steel with a smooth bezel, polished bevels and brushed sides. It’s also nice and svelte with a thickness of 10.3mm while also retaining a solid level of robustness thanks to a 100m water resistance rating.

Sartory Billard SB04-E

Where the two models differ are the dials. Starting with the SB04-E Ruby Platinum, it has a central disk of ruby with a delicate crystalline pattern. While we’re used to seeing synthetic rubies used in horology (providing much needed friction protection in movements), it’s not often that you see the natural gemstone used for decorative elements. Its extreme rarity and high value make it impractical to use, plus its notoriously difficult to cut to the 0.5mm thickness most watches use for stone dials.

Sartory Billard SB04-E

It makes for a striking and impressive centrepiece to the dial. Around the edge of the ruby heart is the broad hour and minute scales, which here are presented in a dark grey fumé with sunray brushing. The ring is actually platinum plated, hence the name SB04-E Ruby Platinum, adding an extra layer of luxury to the piece and adding a brilliance to the polished elements such as the small, inner lip around the ruby disk.

Sartory Billard SB04-E

Moving to the SB04-E Tantalum Hand-Engraved edition, its central disk is made from tantalum delicately engraved with a feather-like finish. The hour and minute ring is also produced in tantalum but this time with sunray brushing for the finish. Tantalum is an interesting material that’s steadily seeing more and more use in the watch industry – it’s very hard, making it suitable for watches, while also having a high lustre, giving it a good aesthetic appeal.

Sartory Billard SB04-E

Below the dials of both versions, you’ll find the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement with 68-hour power reserve. LJP’s movements have become the go to for watchmakers looking for third party movements with higher specs and a touch more prestige than anything offered by Sellita or ETA. It operates at a 4Hz frequency and is wound by a tungsten rotor decorated with Geneva stripes.

Sartory Billard SB04-E

The SB04-E Ruby Platinum is limited to 150 pieces at a price of €4,700 excl. VAT (approx. £3,970) and the non-limited SB04-E Tantalum Hand-Engraved is €3,500 excl. VAT (approx. £2,960). Those are pretty incredible prices considering the delicate craftsmanship involved and high quality movement. It really highlights the value or rather lack of value, some other mid-range luxury brands offer.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Sartory

Billard SB04-E Tantalum Hand-Engraved and Ruby Platinum

Case:
39.5mm

diameter x 10.3mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Full

Tantalum or Heart of Ruby surrounded by a Fume Platinum coated outer ring

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
La

Joux-Perret calibre G101, automatic, 24 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
68h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Curved

Delugs CTS rubber strap with snap buckle with additional Delugs voucher included

Price:
€4,700

excl. VAT (approx. £3,970), limited to 150 pieces (Ruby), €3,500 excl. VAT (approx. £2,960) (Tantalum)

More details at Sartory Billard.

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Tudor Unveil Black Bay Chrono “Blue Flamingo” in Inter Miami Third Kit Colours

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Flamingo Blue

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Flamingo Blue

One of Tudor’s unexpected hits of 2024 was the Black Bay Chrono “Pink”. I say unexpected because initially Tudor made it incredibly difficult to get hold of one but demand was so high that eventually they relented and added it to general sale. They aren’t making the same mistake with the new follow up to the colourful chrono, dubbed the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue Flamingo”, which is available to purchase immediately.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Flamingo Blue

This watch was first teased online when David Beckham and Jay Chou, two Tudor ambassadors, were spotted wearing the turquoise dialled timepiece in promotional material. It has the standard dimensions of the Black Bay Chrono measuring 41mm in diameter and 14.4mm in thickness and is made from stainless steel. It also has the signature screw-down pushers seen on popular chronographs like the Black Bay Chrono’s more famous sister the Rolex Daytona.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Flamingo Blue

The colour of the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue Flamingo”s dial has multiple inspirations. While Tudor don’t acknowledge it directly, there’s clearly a link to Inter Miami’s third kit which is a very similar shade of turquoise. Inter Miami is the team owned by David Beckham and the original pink Chrono was dedicated to the team. Tudor instead call the colour “Blue Flamingo” based on the rather fanciful notion that if you asked anyone what this made-up colour would look like, it would be this.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Flamingo Blue

On social media I have already seen the term Tiffany blue bandied about and it’s difficult to judge whether the tones are the same or if there’s a notable difference without seeing the Tudor side by side with a genuine Tiffany blue timepiece like the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Coincidentally that would be a killer two-watch collection if LeBron James or Jay-Z happen to be reading this.

Tudor have paired the “Blue Flamingo” dial with black chronograph subdials and a black tachymeter bezel. The chronograph complication is powered by the manufacture calibre MT5813, which has a 70-hour power reserve indicator. It’s one of Tudor’s COSC chronometer movements rather than their recent forays into METAS master chronometer certification.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Flamingo Blue

As for price, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue Flamingo” is £5,020 and Tudor state that the watch is available to purchase immediately. Although at time of writing there is no online purchase portal on the website, suggesting it’s a boutique exclusive or only available through direct enquiry.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Tudor

Black Bay Chrono ‘Flamingo Blue’

Ref:
79360N

Case:
41mm

diameter, stainless steel

Dial:
Flamingo

blue with black subdials

Water resistance:
200m

(20 bar)

Movement:
Tudor

calibre MT5813, automatic, COSC-certified, 41 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
70h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date, chronograph

Strap:
Stainless

steel bracelet with Tudor ‘T-fit’ rapid adjustment clasp

Price:
£5,020

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