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Panerai’s experience editions are going from strength to strength – watches where part of the value comes from access to once-in-a-lifetime experiences. From a navy-style bootcamp to a city break and most recently, with the Mike Horn Experience Edition, a full on expedition to Bhutan. The experience that comes with the Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni Eilean Experience Edition PAM01643 takes things in a relaxing direction with a complete Sicilian holiday.

Don’t forget that Panerai are offering an Oracle Time reader an experience as well, with a chance to attend Watches & Wonders – the competition closes on January 31^st so there’s not long left. Back to the Radiomir, the Sicilian adventure begins with a helicopter ride followed by a hike up the slopes of Mt. Etna, where you’ll have privilege access to a local winery. The Mediterranean Experience will conclude with a cruise aboard the Eilean, Panerai’s sailboat that has formed the basis for several watches in the collection.

The new watch has closer ties to Eilean than any of the watches that have come before because it contains components made from the actual boat. The bronze crown, bezel and caseback medallion are made from bronze taken from the bronze fittings that were removed from the boat when it was restored a few years ago. It’s not 100% Eilean-ian bronze as the material was re-smelted along with some new bronze to make it suitable for use on a watch and return the golden, copper colour. Plus, there had to be enough material to stretch across the 30-piece limited edition.

Completing the bi-metal appearance of the piece is the rest of the steel cushion case. It has Panerai’s proprietary Brunito finishing, which consists of dark PVD coating that’s then worn away by hand to create a worn, vintage appearance that’s unique to each watch. It’s still a Panerai so it’s a big watch too, measuring 45mm in diameter. If you look along its flank, you’ll also see the Eilean name along with a replica of the dragon emblem found on the Eilean.

For the dial, the Radiomir 8 Giorni Eilean Experience Edition PAM01643 builds on the bronze elements of the case with a beige colour. It’s also the off-white, cream tone of natural sailcloth, specifically the colour of the sails found on the Eilean. It’s one of the most attractive dials on any recent Panerai with its gentle fumé gradient adding a soft smokiness. The beige lume elements of the sandwich dial also adds a sense of vintage aging to the dial, similar to the Brunito finishing for the case. It’s a traditional Radiomir display with hours, minutes and small seconds.

Inside, it houses the P.5000 manual winding movement with 8-day power reserve, which is where the 8 Giorni comes in the watch’s name. It achieves such a long power reserve with a double barrel system while most watch only have a single power barrel – the coiled spring that stores energy when you wind the watch. The calibre is protected by a solid caseback with commemorative medallion marking the year of the boat’s maiden voyage.

As mentioned briefly, the Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni Eilean Experience Edition PAM01643 is a limited edition of 30-pieces. It’s also price on request, to no one’s surprise considering that it comes with a luxury Mediterranean holiday. If you want a slice of the dolce vita on your wrist and in your photo albums and memories, Panerai have got you covered.

More details at Panerai.

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While I’m one of the few people in Oracle Time HQ who doesn’t know his Arsenal from his West Ham, there are some sports I find myself enraptured by. Bizarrely it’s tennis and rugby that find themselves at the top of that list despite being at the opposite ends of the finesse spectrum. If you want a tennis themed watch, you should look at Richard Mille’s Rafael Nadal series. But for rugby, it has to be Breitling and their annual Six Nations collection. For 2025 they’ve launched the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Six Nations and I have the Ireland edition here for review.

As an English publication, you might ask the question why aren’t we reviewing the English edition? Well, the core feature of these six watches is a brand new dial finish and under the bright lights of our photography studio it’s the Irish green that’s easier to see the details on rather than white. Breitling are calling it a ‘pitch finish’ and it consists of alternating bands of matte colour and metallic, horizontal brushing. It’s really successful at creating an impression of a rugby pitch with its striped lines in the grass.

Plus moving the watch under the light creates a really satisfying shimmer as the light plays across the contrasting details of the brushed and matte surfaces. While you’re moving the watch around to catch the light you can’t help but admire the case too. It’s just the standard Chronomat design but it suits the sporty vibes of the theme perfectly with its bold unidirectional bezel. At 40mm in steel it’s well sized on the wrist as well and the Rouleaux style bracelet is one of the most comfortable around (as a hirsute man, hairs getting trapped is a constant pain but here that’s never been an issue).

Breitling have been producing Six Nations watches for a few years now and each time they focus on a different complication. For the Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Six Nations that means a dual time zone GMT complication. A central 24-hour hand points towards a peripheral 24-hour scale on the flange, allowing you to tell the time in two time zones simultaneously. You can advance the time on the GMT hand in two ways. When you change local time, the GMT hand will move proportionally with it or you can use the jump function to move it in intervals of one hour, making it easy to change the monitored time zone with ease. All of which is controlled by the very ergonomic, fluted, screw-down crown.

The fact it has a screw-down crown also helps to contribute to a 200m water resistance rating, building on the sporty versatility of the piece. As does the ultra-legible display with lumed baton hour markers and matching lumed hands. The colour of the GMT hand varies depending on the model so the Ireland one is white but England’s is red for example.

Turning the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Six Nations over reveals a solid caseback with the focal nation’s rugby union crest. It also denotes that the watch is ‘one of 250’ as each variant is a limited edition of 250. Beneath that caseback is housed the Breitling Calibre 32 with 42-hour power reserve and COSC chronometer certification. It’s based on the ETA 2893-2 automatic GMT. The fact it’s a chronometer helps ensure its accuracy and reliability as it’s been lab tested in multiple positions.

Each of the watches in the collection is priced at £4,950, which is the same as Breitling’s other Chronomat GMT 40 watches. I find it hard to judge the value of Breitling releases, it is a COSC chromometer but there are plenty of watches out there with similar quality for much less. But at the end of the day, Breitling itself carries a lot of cachet of its own and its own style that few in the industry come close to replicating.

More details at Breitling.

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I must admit that the marketing around the Timex Giorgio Galli S2 from 2023 does the watch no favours. Dedicated as it is to the Timex Group’s Creative Director, it feels a little too self-congratulatory. However, that does nothing to stop the watch itself from being lovely. So lovely in fact that Timex have released a new edition, the Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti. It’s also the swan song for the S series which is being discontinued after this launch.

As you may be able to gather from the chemical symbol Ti in the watch’s name, this version of the watch upgrades the 38mm case from steel to titanium. Titanium has a higher strength-to-weight ratio than steel, meaning it’s much lighter on the wrist without sacrificing durability. There was a time, four or five years ago when titanium really started to populate the industry, that people would complain that watches should have heft to them and while you still hear that sentiment in relation to tool watches, the Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti is a daily wearer that’s on the more elegant side of design. So, any quality of life and wearability improvements are welcome.

One thing to note is that the original steel S2 did feature some titanium as well; it had a titanium middle case. Now that the rest of the watch is presented in titanium Timex still wanted to give it a middle case of a material one rung higher up the prestige ladder so to speak, and so the Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti has a forged carbon middle. That’s what gives the flanks their black colouration.

The S2Ti features more changes than just the materials of the case. The dial has changed too, swapping from black to silver. In fact, the dial is made from the same titanium as the case with a satin brushed finish, which is why it pairs so nicely for that cool, monochrome look. Completing the display is a steel ring hour track and polished hands, the slight variation in metallic tones helping the piece remain legible despite all being the same colour.

Beneath the titanium dial is the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, a staple of the industry for both established brands like Timex and independent microbrands. It has a 41-hour power reserve, which is solid for an accessible calibre. Although it’s worth noting that the combination of the titanium case, titanium dial and forged carbon middle does make the Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti the most expensive watch in their entire range at £1,450. It’s also a limited edition of 500 pieces which also contributes to its exclusivity. I think there’s enough value here to justify the price, which just makes it all the sadder that this is the final S series model – because it’s a stunner.

More details at Timex.

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American sportswear and athleisure brand ASRV recently teased an upcoming G-Shock DW-6900 collaboration with two videos posted on Instagram (embedded below). The first video depicts a DW-6900 with a distinctive red backlight embedded in an asteroid. The second video shows a man training outdoors with the watch and displays the “1.30.25” date. The watch has […]

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2023 already feels like a lifetime ago but it really had some stellar watch releases compared to what felt like a somewhat lacklustre 2024. Case in point, 2023 saw the release of the OW 8001 by Ollech & Wajs that to my mind at least caused a new level of growth and interest in the brand. Two years later we have a follow up to that launch, dubbed the Ollech & Wajs OW 8001 ‘Tundra’.

In some ways this is not a brand new watch as the inception of the ‘Tundra’ actually came fairly soon after the launch of the OW 8001. Ollech & Wajs produce quite a large number of closed collaborations, which is to say collaboration watches that are not sold publicly and that are not widely publicised. In fact, they’re not allowed to talk about many of their military collabs until they’re declassified, such as the Department.000 watches. The OW 8001 ‘Tundra’ was not a military watch, instead starting its life as a limited edition in partnership with MIR, the Norwegian Architectural Design Collective.

The new watch is not a 1-to-1 re-release of that collaborative watch, instead being tweaked for public release. It has a moss green fumé dial that shifts through smoky tones, starting light in the centre and fading to almost black around the circumference. It’s inspired by the mossy terrain and low scrubland brush found on the Norwegian tundra – hence the name. It retains the strong, blocky shapes of the original OW 8001’s handset and baton hour markers.

Here though, those shapes have been expanded out to the bezel as a replacement to the previous 60-minute scale with Arabic numerals. It gives a much more structural look to the piece, which is unsurprising given it was born out of an architecture collaboration. It also makes a lot more sense as an artistic, design-led feature considering that the bezel is fixed – it was one of the perplexing features of the original that it ostensibly had a timer bezel that you couldn’t use as a timer.

Beyond the updated bezel, it has the same 39.5mm x 12.7mm case with integrated bracelet. The broad, flat surfaces of the design also play into the blocky style of the piece, which results in quite a brutalist aesthetic. You can again see why this model above all others in the OW range appealed to architects. While it doesn’t have a particularly strong dive watch vibe, the case can go toe-to-toe with them thanks to a 300m water resistance rating.

The relatively high specs continue on the inside as it houses the bespoke OW Soprod Newton Precision P092 COSC chronometer movement. It’s an automatic movement with a 44-hour power reserve and of course the accuracy and reliability are within chronometer requirements ensuring a high level of operation. It’s visible through the exhibition caseback where you can admire the no-nonsense rotor with Zurich 1956 engraving.

The OW 8001 ‘Tundra’ is priced at £1,730, which is the same as the previous edition. I really like the new architectural and Nordic influences applied to the solid framework of the 8001. Its sporty-dive watch capabilities make it the ideal canvas for a touch more design expression without compromising the integrity of the piece.

More details at Ollech & Wajs.

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We like to think that changes in watches happen because of some horological breakthrough or because the industry as a whole decides to change – for example, look at how, ten years ago, everyone decided that all watches had to be 40mm diameter or bigger. Or how a few years ago, everyone was suddenly introducing thin watches. But often, change comes from the most unexpected source; for example, the most exotic Rolex watches happened because of French post-WW2 economic turmoil. A collection of mysterious French-made Rolex cases worth investigating.

Let me explain, in the 12 years after 1946, there were 21 changes of government. In essence, the country was the most unstable in Europe and there were frequent devaluations of the Franc. This posed a problem because France was a firm believer in the Gold Standard, that a country’s currency should be backed by its gold reserves. After WW1, this became the rule and the US Dollar, the Pound Sterling and the French Franc were readily convertible into gold. However, during the 1930s and the Great Depression both Britain and the US abandoned the Gold Standard, but the French held on for as long as possible.

When French citizens saw their currency being constantly devalued, which happened almost annually, they turned their savings into gold and put it under the mattress. This left the government without sufficient gold to meet its reserves, so they instituted a ban on the private purchasing of gold. Gold could only be bought from the Bank of France by licensed jewellers or other industrial users of the metal. Imports of finished gold products were also banned, as this was an obvious way around the prohibition.

Swiss watch brands faced a dilemma; they had French clients who craved gold watches, but they were only allowed to purchase French-made watches, as these had French gold cases. The answer was to have watch movements imported into the country and then house them in gold cases made in France.

However, there were very few industrial case makers in France, so Rolex et. al turned to France’s pool of jewellery talent. Boucheron, Cartier, Chaumet, Clerc, Van Cleef & Arpels were all based in Paris and had nearly a millennium of experience between them, making everything from simple wedding bands to imperial regalia and everything imaginable in between. So hand-made watch cases were no great problem – indeed, many are to this day renowned watch designers in their own right. And so emerged Rolex’s French-made cases.

Every Swiss firm from Omega and IWC to Rolex and Patek followed this route; however, there is a huge difference between a factory-made case produced in the hundreds, if not thousands and a hand-made one built in a jeweller’s atelier. A factory-made case needs to be easy to manufacture, to be able to be reproduced in volume and to use the minimum amount of gold, as the manufacturing costs are minimal once the tooling has been made, but the cost of the gold used is a significant part of the cost.

Whereas the major cost in a jeweller-made case is the wages of the skilled craftsman who constructs the case from scratch, this is why factory-made cases seem almost flimsy when compared to these jeweller-made ones. The other factor worth taking into account is the design, these French jewellers were artists in precious metal, they weren’t particularly interested in making simple rectangles or circular cases with just a little bit of design in the lugs; no, they treated each watch case as a blank canvas and tried to outdo each other in design before handing the design over to the artiste who would physically create the case.

When it comes to Rolex’s French-made cases what that means is rather than sticking to recognisable designs like the Oyster Perpetual, the jewellers ran free with Avant Garde abandon. Rectangular timepieces with what can be described as early examples of integrated lugs with wide, flat, angular surfaces. Or a similar example but with curvy gadroon decoration instead of angular. A square cased piece of vintage Art Deco design with ziggurat levels of layering to the golden case. Each more or less unique with their own character as per the whims of each jeweller. Although that’s not to say there weren’t also the occasional conventional design.

The absolute scarcity of these pieces and the lack of a manufacturer’s stamp inside the caseback means that there is almost no market for them, which – in my opinion – is nothing short of a tragedy.

Image credit: James Dowling

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The world of watches created via collaboration is constantly expanding. Though not all collaborations are equal, they’re a sliding scale of involvement and creativity from various parties. From simple co-signed dials to long-term partnerships, what quantifies a ‘true collaborative effort’ remains up for debate, but I’ll go ahead and say it: Ulysse Nardin has just proven that the zenith of collaboration is positively thriving with the announcement of the Ulysse Nardin Blast [Amoureuxpeintre].

Known for challenging watchmaking conventions, Ulysse Nardin kicks off 2025 with an inquisitively mysterious riff of the radical Blast X, creating a limited edition of 29 pieces with the assistance and creative vision of a vanguard fashion designer.

Amoureuxpeintre – or Vsevolod Sever Cherepanov, to those close to him – is a true creative multidisciplinarian. His mindset and principles centre around simplicity that invites deeper inquiry, with his skills previously being harnessed by Nike, streetwear meets luxury fashion house Alyx, and like-minded innovators such as 424 and Nemen. He has further broadened his creative endeavours by entering the world of interiors, product design, and photography. From where I’m sitting, his passion for unique, unorthodox, yet modest design seems tailor-made for a like-minded visionary in Ulysse Nardin, and their curiosity-inducing creation speaks for itself.

When exploring the details of this simple yet artistic Blast, careful consideration lies in every facet. Rendered in an anthracite PVD-coated titanium case with a sandblasted finish, this piece starts life as a Blast Skeleton X, yet its 42mm case favours a muted stealth appearance.

The frosted sapphire crystal is the star of the show here, adorned with the brand’s signature in black typography, a set of semi-skeletonised grey-lumed anthracite hands, and a subtle hash marker rehaut which transitions to a fumé effect. It’s a thought-provoking crystal as the blurry, almost misty properties convey a sense of unusual depth while cleverly revealing the calibre at its heart. However, it doesn’t highlight the mechanics in full 4K clarity. Instead, it hints and teases at the inner workings, giving a sense of distance to the movement.

It’s a dial that invites frequent wrist checks due to its ability to give the false impression that the harder you look, the more in focus everything will be. The effect is quite genius, causing the eye not to impulsively look straight to the rectangular upper bridge and calibre architecture behind but consciously gaze through the crystal as if it were thick, low-hanging fog. Any reason a watch can justify staring at it in greater detail and context is always a positive. This effect took two years of development alone.

It’s the same story through the caseback, revealing a repeat of this blurred crystal and additional hints at the Calibre UN-371. This manually wound calibre is a reworked UN-171 boasting 96-hours (that’s four days) of autonomy and is achieved through a gear train balance wheel (3Hz), escapement wheel, anchor, and balance spring, all complete in silicon to benefit from both tribology and resistance to magnetic field.

The astute among you have likely noticed that this watch has fully captured my attention. As our industry’s mainstream master of the avant-garde, Ulysse Nardin has built a contemporary legacy by not shying away from challenging conventions. With the Blast [Amoureuxpeintre], they continue to embody this philosophy through a partnership with a visionary who is articulating and shaping the current state of contemporary fashion and design.

Despite being desperately keen to avoid clichés, this collaboration is a match made in heaven, and it took three years of development to get to this point. Still, Ulysse Nardin will only produce 29 examples, precisely as exclusive as a watch that calls itself a ‘limited edition’ should be. Seeing ‘XXXX/3,000’ on the caseback of a watch takes away from the whole notion of limited editions feeling, well, limited. Plus the £28,210 price tag only heightens that exclusivity.

Taking a step back and speaking more broadly, I want to see more of this level of collaboration in watchmaking. Fresh external perspectives, mindsets, principles, beliefs, and ideas coming into our ancestral world to be nurtured through a proficient maison are incredibly compelling propositions in 2025. Especially when the collaborators are esteemed designers in their respective fields. Such as when Hublot teamed up with Samuel Ross.

Don’t take this as my public statement of any distaste for collaboration between parties within the world of watches—there is room for everyone – yet it must be said that pieces like the Blast [Amoureuxpeintre] inject an inquisitiveness that can draw new eyes to horology while simultaneously refreshing the enthusiasm of those already deeply embedded in watch collecting.

Watches with a strong design focus are steering the conversation and driving demand in today’s post-hype watch landscape. The audacious Blast [Amoureuxpeintre] could well be Ulysse Nardin’s strongest and most exciting response to this new wave. 

More details at Ulysse Nardin.

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What was the last watch you bought?

I recently bought an early 1970s Nidor, a relatively unknown brand that disappeared a while ago. It has a long, narrow rectangular shape that wraps around the wrist and an angular bezel with four steps. The design reminds me of early modernist architecture, like a building from 20th-century New York. It has a sculptural quality that resonates with my taste and sensibilities.

Do you collect anything outside of watches?

I collect natural objects like rocks, eroded glass, and seashells — reminders of nature’s beauty over time and a source of inspiration. I also collect early 20th-century French furniture, particularly pieces by Charlotte Perriand, Jean Prouvé, and Pierre Jeanneret. I admire how they redefined furniture design by merging artisanal and industrial approaches to create objects that are innovative, pure, and timeless.

What, other than a watch, is at the top of your wish list?

I’ve become increasingly drawn to hand-blown glass, especially with my mother’s family roots in Venice, close to Murano. It’s new territory for me, but I find myself captivated by glass’s ability to freeze movement in time, while appearing fragile enough to shatter with a touch.

A recent find or discovery?

I recently came across the work of Jules Lobgeois, a French sculptor who combines wood and textured steel in ways that feel organic and fresh. His mix of materials and natural forms is quite inspiring.

What inspires you?

Inspiration can come from anywhere—beach stones, art, architecture, or even random books. For instance, I recently saw an exhibition at the Pompidou on Surrealism, which explored the creative potential of the unconscious mind. It reminded me of the power in combining elements that don’t intuitively fit together but create an unexpected energy when combined.

A book, podcast or album that changed the way you think?

In Praise of Shadows by Jun’ichirō Tanizaki had a big impact on my sense of aesthetics. The book reflects on the beauty of subtlety and imperfection in Japanese culture, celebrating dim lighting, natural materials, and the richness of shadows. Tanizaki contrasts this with Western ideals of brightness and symmetry, exploring how darkness and texture can create depth, mystery, and warmth. It sparked my appreciation for understated beauty and inspired my love for materials like lacquer, which age with character.

Charlotte Perriand & her work

Who is a celebrity or person of note/ intellectual you admire?

Charlotte Perriand, for her innovative spirit and her ability to draw from diverse influences.

What’s your ideal long weekend?

Returning to Paris, where I’m from, and spending the weekend exploring its streets, cafés, galleries, and restaurants.

What would we always find in your fridge?

Jalapeño peppers — I seem to add them to everything.

What’s a rule or mantra that you live by?

There’s a quote by André Gide: “one doesn’t discover new lands without consenting to lose sight of the shore for a long time.” I love the idea that to find anything new, you have to let go of conventions, even if it feels isolating at times.

What does the year ahead look like for you?

I’m looking forward to sharing Anoma’s vision with a wider audience and continuing creative projects that spark my curiosity and keep discovery at the heart of what I do.

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After the resounding success of the inaugural British Watchmakers’ Day last year hosted by the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, it’s no surprise that the show is back again for 2025. If you managed to attend last year, you’ll know the coolest aspect of the event is that each of the exhibiting brands rock up with British Watchmakers’ Day limited edition watches exclusively available at the show. With the 2025 edition just around the corner, taking place on March 8^th, we’re starting to see a handful of those limited editions be announced, such as the Beaucroft x Penfold Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day 2025.

Penfold is the alias of Bristol-based artist Tim Gresham, who is known for his striking use of abstract shape and colour to create motion and emotion. It has long been the ambition of Beaucroft to work with him on a project and the Watchmakers’ Day limited edition offered the perfect opportunity. Regarding the project, Penfold said, “When Matt [Herd, Beaucroft Co-Founder,] first spoke to me about designing a watch for Beaucroft I initially had something wild and loud in my head. After playing around with ideas and compositions I found myself stripping back the elements and letting the watch speak for itself”

The result is a dial both elegant and dynamic. It has a matte white base to simulate a blank canvas, on top of which sits an airbrushed gradient bar with sharp shadow beneath. Accenting the bar is an engraved Beaucroft logo and an off-centre black dot. There’s an interesting interplay between the straight, rigid lines of the bar and the curved surfaces of the dot and the fact that the watch itself is round.

Speaking of, the watch’s case measures 39.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.7mm in stainless steel. It has a mixture of brushed, polished and bead blasted finishing across the smooth bezel, case sides and angular lugs. It’s a pretty robust case too with 200m water resistance and an extra-hard coating to provide improved scratch resistance. Ideal for daily wear with an extra dose of artistic flair courtesy of that dial.

Powering the piece is an industry staple accessible movement, the Miyota 9039 with 42-hour power reserve and regulated to +/-10 second per day accuracy. It’s one of the most widely used calibre around and helps brands keep prices reasonable while also being reliable. The Beaucroft x Penfold Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day 2025 is priced at £649 and only 75 pieces are available. They will be offered first exclusively to attendees of the British Watchmakers’ Day on March 8^th with any unsold pieces available online from 9am on March 9^th.

More details at Beaucroft.

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Panerai have been working alongside adventurer Mike Horn for over two decades and in that time they’ve collaborated on plenty of watches together. It was only last November they released the Panerai Submersible GMT Titanio Mike Horn Experience Edition which comes with a trip to Bhutan included. Speaking of trips with Panerai, they’re offering an Oracle Time reader a free trip to Watches & Wonders 2025, make sure to sign up before January 31^st for a chance to win. But for now, let’s talk about the new Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Mike Horn Edition PAM01676.

Kicking things off, the watch is a pretty standard rendition of the steel Submersible QuarantaQuattro in the signature colours of the Mike Horn special editions. That means it has a 44mm diameter cushion case with the signature crown protection lock at 3 o’clock. It also has a ceramic insert bezel with uni-directional rotation that makes it nice and scratch resistant while you’re calculating your immersion time. Scratches are somewhat inevitable on a dive watch due to the hostile environments of the sea and beaches, full of nasty rocks and sand that are basically unavoidable, so any extra scratch resistance is welcome.

The core colours here are blue and yellow. As mentioned, these are colours common to virtually  all Panerai Mike Horn watches. Blue is representative of their shared love of the seas and yellow makes sense as a high contrast colour to blue, making it nice and legible even in low light conditions. Another Swiss brand, Doxa, famously tested a lot of colours for dive watches to find the most legible and they settled on orange, but yellow achieves essentially the same thing. Plus, in the deep dark of the ocean, most colours fade to brown or grey at best anyway. At least without a torch to light them up. The yellow accents are found on the watch name, 300m water resistance marking and small seconds subdial.

I really like the use of small seconds subdials on dive watches. The smaller diameter of the subdial means it’s easier to see that the hand is moving, which is proof that the watch is still working as intended and that the movement is running. That’s why you’ll often see small second counters on dive watches referred to as running seconds. When you’re relying on your watch to keep you safe, you want to be certain it’s operating normally.

While we’re still focusing on legibility, the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Mike Horn Edition PAM01676 is fitted with the classic dive watch array of applied hour markers coated with lume. Panerai are more famous for their sandwich dial designs but here safety and practicality win out over style. Which is as it should be for a professional instrument. Beneath the surface of the dial is the P.900 calibre, a Panerai staple with 3-day power reserve.

As for price, the Mike Horn edition is £10,300, which is right around the price of the other ceramic bezel Submersible QuarantaQuattros. At its core this is an alternative colour scheme for the watch but it’s a scheme that really works with the eye-catching yellow paired with the serene blue. Also, one last reminder to take part in the Oracle Time x Panerai competition to win a ticket to Watches & Wonders 2025.

More details at Panerai.

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