Author: admin

If you’ve ever studied the classical world, and I mean classical in its academic sense, then you’ll likely be familiar with the central motif of Ianos’ new Dytis dive watch. It’s a timepiece dedicated to the brand’s Greek ancestry with an Evil Eye small seconds subdial inspired by the warding markings often used in jewellery and on the sides of Ancient Greek ships. Amusingly if you know the modern Greek language you’ll know that that Dytis means Diver, so this is the Diver dive watch.

Fortunately, it lives up to its name with a 300m water resistance rating giving it professional dive watch specs. The case measures 41mm in diameter in lightweight but durable titanium, for great corrosion resistance to protect it from seawater while also making it nice and wearable on dry land. It also has a unidirectional rotating bezel with a single lumed index so you can use it as an immersion timer even without the traditional graduated scale. Instead of that scale it has a cool grained finish that makes it stand out in comparison to alternative titanium dive watches.

Looking to the Ianos Dytis’ dial, at 6 o’clock is that aforementioned Evil Eye small seconds counter, though as it also has no scale it more serves as a running indicator, proving that the watch is still operational deep underwater at a glance. The other aspects of the display such as the lumed hour markers and hands are all oversized with a graphical quality to them that makes the watch easy to read, important for a diver.

There are actually two versions of the dial available. The first in blue with white accents and the other inverted to white with blue accents. At a surface level they’re both interpretations of the modern Greek flag but they also link back to Ancient Greek as well through the blue waters of the Aegean Sea and the white marble of its statues.

Powering the Ianos Dytis is the Sellita SW360-1, an automatic Swiss movement with a 56-hour power reserve. A really solid movement with a good power reserve that just about sneaks into that golden weekend-proof zone where you can put it down Friday evening and it will still be ticking on Monday morning (though cutting the margins extremely fine so I hope you’re a late sleeper and early riser).

Between the Swiss movement and the professional dive watch specs of the case, the price tag of CHF 1,850 (approx. £1,680) offers good value. I can easily picture this watch on the shores of a Greek island, basking in the Mediterranean sun and splashing in the waves. Or down beneath the waves in the ruins of an ancient civilisation – hunting for Atlantis perhaps. Now that would be an odyssey worth embarking on.

More details at Ianos.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Brew Watches are celebrating their 10^th anniversary with a new interpretation of their flagship Metric watch. The model has previously been produced with meca-quartz and automatic movements but now it’s presented with a manual-winding calibre for the first time. So, the watch is fittingly called the Brew Metric Manual Wind. It’s their most high spec movement to date, which also means it’s their most expensive.

There are two versions of the watch available, a colourful blue edition that is already sold out (it was limited to 25 pieces) and a monochrome grey edition that’s still available (100 pieces). The blue version features the brand’s signature espresso timer scale, highlighting the seconds scale between 25 and 35 seconds in yellow. The grey edition goes without in order to present a more sombre interpretation that puts stronger emphasis on the retro 70s design of the watch.

Speaking of which, it has a 36mm cushion case design that leads into an integrated bracelet with a chunky single-link design. It’s a design that has made it a cult hit among microbrand aficionados. The Metric Manual Wind is also the slimmest edition of the Metric so far with a thickness of just 8.5mm, as there’s no bulky rotor or chronograph module to increase its size.

In addition to the redesigned proportions of the case, the display has been reimagined too. It’s a lot more pared back with a sector style minute track instead of the previous flange mounted one and the hour markers have a shorter, mountain top design. It feels like there’s a lot more space around the edge of the dial and also in the centre, making it less crowded and allowing room for each element to breathe. It’s a very mature update and I really like it, especially in the monochrome grey.

Of course, as a new manual winding edition, a lot of the focus is on the new movement. It’s the Sellita SW210-1 b, one of the most widely used manual calibres. It has a 42-hour power reserve, meaning it will need winding every other day to keep it ticking, giving you plenty of opportunity to develop that routine some collectors really enjoy.

I mentioned earlier that this is Brew’s most expensive watch to date but that doesn’t mean it’s going to break the bank. It’s priced at £670, which explains why the 25 piece limited edition blue version has already sold out and one can only imagine that the grey edition isn’t too far behind either. You can meet Brew and discover their watches at Hands On Horology on June 14^th at London’s Protein Studios.

More details at Brew.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

G-Shock is continuing the phosphorescent style of glow-in-the-dark dials and faces, which was first seen in the popular Hidden Glow Series. The new HDS (Hidden Shine?) Series features a white and blue color scheme and includes six models. Four of the models have standard (a.k.a. positive) LCD displays: the digital DW-6900HDS-7 and the analog-digital GA-110HDS-7A, […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

Read More 

We all love vintage-inspired watches, and the trend seems to diversify rather than dissipate. On this note, there are vintage brands being revived all the time. Collectors’ favourite Universal Geneve was revived last year with a curated Geneva-Copenhagen event, in which I was happy to be a participant. This year, Gallet is the next brand to be polished up and brought back by Breitling CEO George Kern, and Antiquorum is in on the game with their 10^th and 11^th of May Geneva auction next weekend highlighting several lovely vintage examples.

Now let’s be clear, this is not a Gallet auction and includes some pretty strong highlights from Patek Philippe (like the ref 866/5 constituting Lot 500, and Lot 224) and featuring the first ultra-thin Audemars Piguet tourbillon automatic calibre by Ebauches SA. So, do have a look in the online catalogue later. But for now, let’s expand on the brand Gallet and its vintage value proposition that has made it such a strong collector favourite. Antiquorum presents 12 examples of the Gallet legacy as the first lots for this two-day auction, and the following lots 13 to 18 are all Breitling references, which I’d wager is not accidental.

The Gallet Heritage

Gallet Multichron Clamshell ad (1939)

As one of the Swiss brands to succumb to the Quartz Crisis, Gallet remains among the most revered yet underappreciated names in vintage horology, particularly known for their chronographs. Gallet is a testament to innovation and durability and was established in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1826. Gallet pre-dates many of its more famous counterparts and earned a reputation for crafting robust, high-precision timepieces favoured by military personnel, aviators, and professionals. Gallet fits snugly within Breitling’s established tool watch and instrument focus, and we might see it as a more affordable alternative to the brand’s offerings, now averaging in the upper £7-10K segment.

Iconic Models

Harry S Truman (1949), image credit: Abbie Rowe

Gallet’s legacy includes early notable chronographs and multi-scale timers, with their most sought-after models being the Flying Officer, known from the wrist of US President Harry S. Truman. The brand were pioneers in developing waterproof cases and shock-resistant movements, and just like today’s retro tool watches, Gallet focused on functionality without sacrificing elegance. So perhaps we could say it is one of the brands responsible for tough watches suitable for the battlefield and the boardroom, sometimes a well-dressed version of the former.

Gallet Multichron Clamshell (1938)

Other Gallet designs popular among vintage collectors include the Gallet Multichron – one of the first true pilot’s chronographs, featuring a flyback function and luminous dials for readability. Used by Allied forces in WWII, it set the benchmark for aviation watches. The Gallet Clamshell Chronograph is another one, today an increasingly rare and artfully designed chronograph. This came with a Hunter caseback, as used by Furlan Marri in their Red Hunter released last month.

For many, Gallet remains a symbol of craftsmanship and purpose, befitting the oft-clichéd term as a true horological pioneer. Let’s look at four of the most distinctive Gallets in the upcoming Antiquorum auction. Although all 12 lots have big personalities for their 34-35mm case size and offer value compared to more famous chronographs of the era by brands like Longines and Heuer.

More details at Antiquorum.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Seiko’s Power Design Project is returning to London’s Japan House for the ‘Incredibly Specialised Watches Exhibition 2’. The second edition of an exhibition that first took place last year. It features a selection of quirky concept watches that are designed to tackle niche concepts to the point of being impractical, hence the name Incredibly Specialised. You can attend the exhibition for free, May 15^th – June 16^th.

There are six watches in the 2025 edition of the Power Design Project exhibition. First is the Egg Boiling Watch, a watch styled like half a boiled egg and whose case actually contains 10% eggshell in the composition of its plastic. It features a white timer hand that lets you boil the perfect egg. The Egg Boiling Watch is joined by Santa Claus’ Specialised Watch, a GMT watch with a full lume dial and closable lid. The logic is that Santa needs to keep track of multiple time zones as he flies around the world, needs to read his watch in dark but also needs to be stealthy as he delivers presents in people’s homes.

Third is A Watch for Girls in Love. This watch features a spinning disk dial with a flower motif and a window that reveals sentiments of ‘Loves Me’ and ‘Loves Me Not’ in the style of the old schoolyard game. Reimagining it in a sort of roulette form. On the opposite end of the spectrum is the Ninja Stealth Watch, which feels like the sort of niche a boy would love. The challenge here was to create a watch that could be read at night without using any luminescence that would give away your position. The solution, a rotating crystal cover that can be moved to expose the tactile dial so you can feel the position of the hour markers and hands.

Taking things to the club is the Specialised Watch for Club DJs, a visual feast for the senses as dynamic as the lights show in your favourite venue. It features an infinity mirror dial that appears to show the watch’s display descending inwards into the dial. It also uses colours that react to UV light like you find in many clubs. Last but by no means least is the Vampire Exclusive Watch, dedicated to all the blood-suckers out there. It features a high gothic design with a display that only shows the hours of the night, though the daylight numerals are still there hidden in crimson. It also features a rotating red crystal bezel that lets you track when you last ate.

All six watches at Seiko’s Power Design Project are fun and quirky in their own right. It makes me want to look around the OT Office and assign them to different people. I am pretty sure that Calista over in photography is a vampire, after all she never shows up in photos. Also, without naming names, we all know who deserves the egg watch after they insist on having them for lunch all the time.

The ‘Incredibly Specialised Watches Exhibition 2’ will be on display from May 15^th  to June 16^th  in the shop at Japan House London (101-111 Kensington High Street, London, United Kingdom), with free admission for all.

More details at Japan House London.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Zumiez.com currently has some nice discounts ranging from 19% to 36% off on various G-Shock, Baby-G, and Casio watches, and what’s even more interesting is that all of these discounted watches are part of a “Buy 1 Get 1 50% Off” deal. If you buy two of them, you will get an additional 50% off […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

Read More 

How do you redefine a classic? I don’t mean reinventing the icons of the watch world, riffing on the Fifty Fathoms, Speedmaster, any number of Genta’s 1970s designs, but to rethink something as basic as a tool watch archetype. With so much noise around various references and the legacies of certain watchmakers, how do you rethink something as fundamental, as archetypal as a dive watch? According to Serica, by starting from the drawing board.

The way that Jérôme Burgert, one of Serica’s co-founders, put it is this: “imagine something that could have been done in the ‘60s but wasn’t.” This was the era of horological innovation in tool watches, the decade in which many of the most iconic watches ever built had their genesis. So, what better decade to go back to, before the weight of inimitable history, world firsts and the word ‘iconic’ muddied the waters? If you’re working from a blank slate, you’d probably want to do so in the ‘60s.

So then, what was a dive watch built to do? If you’re going back to the beginning, it’s a basic question you need to ask. The answer, diving, is simple of course but then what does that mean? What does a diver actually require from their timekeeping instrument? Serica’s approach is to look at the necessary specs and figure out how to meet them in as close to a horological void as possible. The result is a lot of fun.

I’m not about to say the Serica 5303 is some intensely revolutionary iconoclast, a watch that redefines everything that’s come before. It’s not. But it is a solid slice of originality in a sub-genre of watchmaking that’s sorely lacking in it.

Diving Chronometer Ref. 5303, €1,490 (approx. £1,280)

Let’s start with the dial. The combination of bars at the edge and circles in the centre might seem a little odd, like an aesthetic quirk more than specs-driven. But look where those circles are. They’re in exactly the right place for the hour hand to touch them, but the minute hand to cross them. There’s simply no mistaking one from another, even at a glance, which in the low-light environment of deep underwater, is a practical necessity. The graphic iron sights at 12 o’clock round off the perfect dive watch ensemble nicely.

While those kind of reference points are all you need for underwater however, most of us like seeing numerals on dry land. Therefore, Serica added a slim 12-hour scale to the unidirectional rotating bezel, along with the usual countdown diving bezel. It not only means that it’s readable no matter how or where you wear it, but that slim double-bezel adds a certain elegance to the overall look of the 5303.

That perhaps is what sets Serica apart. The ‘boardroom to boat’ trope has been trotted out by desk divers aplenty, but the 5303 is a watch that is both elegant and practical in a way that doesn’t blur the line but eliminates it. Again, they’re not the first – I’d argue the Fifty Fathoms is the most elegant dive watch around – but it’s visually distinct and that, as much as anything else, is praiseworthy.

It’s a subtle distinction that’s rendered in high-end materials with sapphire crystals, ceramic bezels and plenty of 316L stainless steel, protected by an anti-magnetic soft iron inner case and fitted with a gorgeous mesh strap. It ticks every box – including COSC certification – and it’s just the start.

Travel Chronometer Ref. 8315, €1,890 (approx. £1,623)

Everything we’ve gone over can apply not just to the 5303 diver, but Serica’s Field Chronometer and Travel Chronometer too. Both share many of the same aesthetics, adapted to their respective arenas. The Travel Chronometer, for example, swaps out that two-lined bezel for a GMT version and adds a funky lollipop GMT hand. To complete the look, it’s set on a sporty, travel-worthy slim rubber strap, emphasised by guilloche end-links. The attention to detail feels expensive.

The Field Chronometer swaps the strap for a fun, painfully retro Bonklip number that’s breathable, comfortable and one of the most underrated straps around. It especially suits the error-proof California dial version, complete with a plain, brushed steel bezel to hammer home its rugged credentials. Another trope Serica nails: rugged yet refined.

Field Chronometer Ref. 6190 M.S.L, €1,090 (approx. £937)

That said, tropes are tropes for a reason: they’re indicators that a whole lot of designers want to achieve the same thing. But whereas most brands are happy to imitate what’s come before and hope they can stand out from the crowd; Serica have tried to come up with their own approach from the same original starting point. How successful they have been kind of relies on personal taste, as do most things watch-related. But the one thing you can’t deny is that they have their own identity – and in the saturated world of tool watches, there aren’t many who can say that.

More details at Serica.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Farer is here with a new colourful collection of dress watches for the summer. Dubbed the Lissom Collection, it’s a sleek three-hand model with small seconds subdial available in an array of organic colours. Named after a series of famous historic botanists, it’s about as British as it gets.

The word lissom has fallen out of common use in modern English but it’s meaning is actually very straightforward. It means slim and lithe. Its use here refers to the dimensions of the Lissom Collection, measuring 38mm x 7.97mm in stainless steel. At that size it’s little surprise to learn that this is Farer’s new dedicated dress watch collection. That can also be seen in the refined finishing across the case with a polished bezel, polished lugs and satin brushed flanks.

However, just because these are dress watches doesn’t mean Farer has abandoned their typical sense of fun and dynamic use of colour. There are five models in the Lissom collection, each with distinct colour schemes named after famous historic botanists. As an aside I love Farer’s naming because it brings so much more character to the watches than “Classic Dress Watch 5” or “Ref. 123ABC”.

First is the Farer Lissom Arber in raspberry pink with a recessed purple small seconds subdial. It’s named after Agnes Arber, a British plant morphologist, anatomist, historian of botany and philosopher of biology. Second is the Balfour in white with a grey subdial and electric blue Arabic numerals. The Balfour is actually unique in the Lissom Collection as it’s the only model with applied numerals filled with lume – the other four have numerals actually made from lumicast, a type of luminescent ceramic. Isaac Balfour was a professor of botany at Edinburgh, Glasgow and Oxford.

Third is Forrest, which has one of Farer’s signature colourways, teal and orange. It’s a colour scheme we’ve seen on the Chrono-Contempo, Carnegie Chronograph and also the incredibly popular Lander IV GMT. It’s named after George Forrest, one of the first Westerners to explore China’s Yunnan province. Fourth is the Lindley in a dark shade of purple with a powder blue subdial. Interestingly Lindley already has a connection to British horology because Lindley Hall at the Royal Horticultural Society is where the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers have hosted the past two editions of British Watchmakers’ Day.

Fifth and final is the Solander, a black rendition with a sleek monochrome design. It’s definitely the most sombre of the quintet and is arguably the most restrained design Farer have produced in months if not years. It’s so unique in that regard we’ll be getting hands-on with it in the next edition of the Oracle Time Magazine. It’s named after Daniel Solander, the Swedish botanist who accompanied Captain Cook on his first voyage through the Pacific. The presence of Solander and two other botanists inspired the naming of Australia’s Botany Bay.

As for the movement, it has to be a thin calibre to accommodate the lissom proportions of the Farer Lissom’s case. The perfect movement emerged as the La Joux-Perret D100, the LJP version of the Peseux 7001. It’s a manual-winding number with a 50-hour power reserve. It’s also decorated with Farer’s signature arrow-head motif.

All five of the Lisson Collection watches are priced at £1,150. That’s really solid value for a practical dress watch with great proportions and a characterful array of dial options. Choosing a favourite is difficult. I like the almost porcelain vibe of the Balfour but ultimately I think I’m drawn most to the dark plum of the Lindley.

More details at Farer.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Hands On Horology is just around the corner now, London’s new premier watch show and exhibition taking place at Protein Studios in Shoreditch on 14th June. We’ve talked to some of the attending exhibitors to find out what highlights they are bringing to the show. From UK debuts to exclusive limited editions, there’s a lot to be excited about.

Beaucroft

Beaucroft are one of Britain’s most exciting up and coming watch brands, bringing with them an exclusive Hands On Horology special edition wristwatch called the Seeker Black Ice. It’s an absolute stunner with a gradient ice blue dial and black case. It’s bright and elegant with a hint of sharpness to it thanks to that dark tone case which makes it feel incredibly distinctive. It’s powered by a classic movement, the NH38 with 41-hour power reserve.

Nodus

Nodus are producing an exclusive Hands On Horology limited edition Tiger’s Eye Sector II Sport available only on the day. The Sector II Sport is inspired by mid-century sport watches with a fixed bezel and a hyper legible sector dial with a hint of Art Deco influences. With a new tiger’s eye dial, it captures the essence of dynamic, colourful, British style while also playing into renewed interest from collectors in precious stone dials. It will also be their first time exhibiting in the UK.

Paulin

Paulin Watches John Nicol Neo collection (2023)

Scottish watch brand Paulin perfectly encapsulate the bright, playful attitude of British watch design with their retro dials. However, for Hands On Horology they’re switching things up with a special edition of 10 watches with dials painted by Glaswegian artist John Nicol. He’s known for his equally colourful artwork with a dynamic use of shape and abstract concepts. The basis for these unique artworks is the Neo 38mm collection housing the Seiko NH35A automatic movement.

CIGA Design

CIGA Design, the brand behind the GPHG winning U Series Blue Planet, are making their UK exhibition debut. Which means it’s the first time they will be attending a show in the UK with watches at their stand, giving you an amazing and unique opportunity to try on their revolutionary single hand globe watch.

Awake

Awake are a relatively young brand who have really come into a vein of creativity in recent years with their signature Vietnamese lacquer dials. While they’re still keeping things under wraps at time of writing, they have revealed that at Hands On Horology you’ll be able to see a brand-new release, making the show the first place you can see it. A fantastic opportunity to see cutting edge design up close before everyone else.

InkDial

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Hands On Horology (@hands.on.horology)

Respected wristwatch artist InkDial will be on hand to share his incredible artwork. He’s providing an exclusive Hands On Horology print as part of the Priority ticket package as well as the opportunity to have your watch sketched live on the day. Slots for the sketching are extremely limited and are strictly available on a first come, first served basis at the start of each session.

2025 Collections

After Geneva Watch Week saw new releases from a huge number of brands, Hands On Horology will be the first place you can discover those new creations in the UK. Not to mention the latest releases from all of your British favourites like the Christopher Ward C12 Loco and Studio Underd0g’s entirely original Av0cado and Guacam0le. Many brands will also have watches to buy at the show, so you can walk away with your favourite new discovery on your wrist then and there.

Exhibitors

Here’s the latest list of exhibitors attending Hands On Horology London: anOrdain, Alpina, AWAKE, Ball, Baltic, BA111OD, Beaucroft, Bianchet, BOLDR, Bravur, Brew, Christopher Ward, CIGA Design, Doxa, Duckworth Prestex, Favre Leuba, Formex, Frederique Constant, Haute Rive, Herbelin, Horage, Jean Rousseau, Junghans, Orient, Micromilspec, Nodus, Orient, Paulin, RZE, Serica, Straum, Studio Underd0g, and Venezianico.

More details at Hands On Horology.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Tudor have been loving the colour pink in recent years between their collaborations with Inter Miami FC and the Giro d’Italia. It’s the Italian prestige cycling race that takes centre stage with the launch of the new Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” Limited Edition. It’s a 300 piece limited edition of the unique piece winner’s watch that was awarded to Tadej Pogačar upon winning the race in 2024. The new watch was first teased on the wrist of David Beckham in some social media posts that made people wonder if the footballer was up for a change of career into cycling.

As this is just a short production run of an existing watch, we’ve seen it all before so we’ll cover the details quickly. It’s a 43mm black carbon composite watch with titanium chronograph pushers in matching black. As a model designed for cycling and land-based races it doesn’t lean quite so heavily into the aquatic realm as the regular Pelago, sporting only a 100m water resistance rating.

The signature elements of this special edition is of course the pink accents across the display with a pink tachymeter scale graduated specifically for cycling. The chronograph subdials, arranged in a bicompax layout, also feature pink accents to bring the whole piece together. It’s almost an inversion of the Black Bay Chrono Pink, which had a pink dial and black subdials.

Powering the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chronograph “Pink” is the calibre MT5813 with COSC chronometer certification. Its 70-hour power reserve makes it more than weekend proof – though it will need winding approximately 8 times during the course of the Giro d’Italia’s 21 days of racing. Thankfully as an automatic, that’s not much of a hassle if you wear it regularly.

Building on the sporty vibe, it’s presented on a one-piece technical fabric strap with a pink stripe down the centre. It’s priced at £4,650, exactly the same as the standard Pelagos FXD Chronograph. Though with only 300 pieces available, getting hold of one is likely to be all but impossible.

More details at Tudor.

​Oracle Time 

Read More