Author: admin

George Daniels London The Space Traveller I (1982), image credit: Sothebys

With the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, Watchmakers’ Day on 8 March it is a perfect opportunity to cover recent auction highlights featuring modern British watches. This article covers a broad selection of examples from the rarest to the newest. Plus providing further insight we have commentary from Alexander Barter, watch author as well as Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, (4th) Managing Director at Fears Watch Company about the tradition and innovation to be found in British watchmaking.

In order to start this article we first need to go back to 2 July 2019 when a then world record auction price had just been paid for an English watch, and a pocket watch at that! The watch, a remarkable piece named ‘Space Traveller I’ from 1982, was handmade by the famed British horologist and watchmaker Dr George Daniels, CBE, MBE, FBHI (1926 – 2011). Daniels’ is perhaps best known as the creator of the revolutionary Co-Axial escapement adopted by Omega in 1999. The successful bid came to a staggering £3.6 million including buyer’s premium with the watch sold at Sotheby’s New Bond Street, London auction rooms. Bidding for the pocket watch quickly exceeded the pre-auction estimate set at £700,000-1,000,000.

The sale came at a time when the watch auction market was well and truly on the way up. In 1988 Sotheby’s had sold the watch for CHF 220,000 (£194,190), now it was worth £3.6 million. Collectors were paying more attention to independent watchmakers so prices were quickly rising. But above all sales like the Daniels’ ‘Space Traveller I’ put modern British watchmaking in the limelight for a growing global collector community.

In many ways Daniels’ watchmaking spans the traditional to the modern. He sought to improve the watch movement but also studied the craft of classic watchmaking including the legacy of the English watch. In 1980 he was made Master of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, a London City Guild founded in 1631. Indeed it is this rich history of British watchmaking which has helped inform and guide many British watchmakers. To give insight into this legacy as well as the quest for innovation I spoke with Alexander Barter to get his views.

A Brief History of British Independents

Alexander Barter is a watch consultant, researcher and author. His books include, ‘The Watch: A Twentieth-Century Style History’ and ‘500 Years, 100 Watches’. I started by asking for his thoughts about the historical influences of British watchmaking on modern British watchmakers.

“One of the most exciting aspects of today’s leading British watchmakers is how they draw on Britain’s rich horological heritage and traditions in the design of their timepieces. For example, if you examine the architecture of the movements created by Roger Smith, Charles Frodsham & Co, and the Project 248 movement of Craig and Rebecca Struthers, the connection to traditional English watchmaking is immediately apparent.

“As the Struthers themselves have stated, Project 248 picks up where the British watchmaking industry left off in the late 19th century, featuring the once commercially extinct English lever escapement, which had been largely replaced by the Swiss lever in the 20th century. The design of their balance references the work of George Daniels, while the rocking bar keyless work pays homage to Derek Pratt. The almost solid movement backplate, with its intricately engraved decoration, is heavily influenced by 19th-century British watch movements”.

Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer, image credit: Phillips

Continuing Barter noted, “Roger Smith and Charles Frodsham & Co. take a similarly purist approach, ensuring that their watches are created in the traditional English style while innovating within those parameters. Smith, a direct protégé of George Daniels, mastered all 34 essential horological skills, allowing him to create entirely handmade watches. His timepieces incorporate Smith’s own development of the Daniels co-axial escapement and are meticulously hand finished.

“Charles Frodsham & Co, meanwhile, achieved a major breakthrough by successfully miniaturising Daniels’ double impulse chronometer escapement for a wristwatch—an accomplishment even Daniels had not achieved in his lifetime. Their watch, 16 years in development, features a perfectly symmetrical 43-jewel movement with two going barrels and two escape wheels driving a single free-sprung balance, all finished to the highest standard with satin-brushed and black-polished steel. Their ceramic dial is influenced by a watch the firm made in 1903 and cases are made from 22ct gold, almost unheard of in contemporary watchmaking but traditional for English gold watches until 1798.

“Makers such as these, operating at the highest level of modern independent watchmaking, are breathing fresh life into an industry that Britain once dominated—before the Swiss ultimately took control. In reviving this craft, they remain true to the principles of the English style, while also borrowing and drawing inspiration from notable continental figures, such as Abraham-Louis Breguet, whose work profoundly influenced George Daniels, the man credited with reinvigorating British horology.

“What Smith, Frodsham & Co, and Struthers all have in common is their deep respect for traditional British craftsmanship, their commitment to producing watches in the English style, and their refusal to compromise on quality—ensuring that Britain’s horological legacy continues to thrive in the modern era”.

Roger W. Smith Watches at Auction

Roger W. Smith 18k white gold Series 2 Edition 3, image credit: Phillips

While the speculation and hype might not be quite what it once was in the secondary watch market post the 2022 peak, pieces by the top leading independents are still sought after. So your plans of buying one of these watches at a bargain basement price may need to be put on hold. However variations in auction prices can still be found in the market. Take for example two very rare 18k white gold Series 2, Edition 3 wristwatches made by the highly esteemed and important British watchmaker Dr Roger W Smith, OBE, which came up for auction in 2024.

Remarkably given their rarity both wristwatches sold in November 2024. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo sold one Roger W. Smith 18k white gold Series 2, Edition 3 wristwatch while Christie’s sold another. The Christie’s watch was noted as No.3 while the Phillips’ watch was listed as No.4 in an edition of just five 18k white gold watches produced. Both are manual wind, sized 38 mm, with co-axial escapements, small seconds and power reserve indication. The Phillips’, piece was owned by a Japanese collector and came with accessories including a service history booklet as well as a fitted bespoke presentation box.

The Christie’s watch was given an estimate of CHF 220,000 – CHF 450,000 and sold in Geneva on 11 November 2024 for CHF 252,000, (£222,210), including buyer’s premium.

Phillips’ watch was given an estimate of HK$2,350,000 – 4,700,000 and sold in Hong Kong on 22 November 2024 for HK$3,429,000, (£349,280), including buyer’s premium. The higher value for the Phillips’ watch may have related to its catalogued date of production in circa 2013, while the Christie’s watch was catalogued as having London hallmarks for 2010. Additionally the Phillips watch came with more accessories. Like all auctions however it can simply come down to the bidders on the day making it challenging to provide exact comparisons. What these results do show is the continuing interest by collectors in rare watches by Roger W. Smith.

As a small side note, the Christie’s watch came with the opportunity for the successful bidder to have a free service of the movement up to 6 months following the purchase at Christie’s by Roger W. Smith and a visit of his workshop on the Isle of Man – lucky winning bidder!

Co signed George Daniels and Roger W Smith Millennium, image credit: Sotheby’s

On the subject of values for the very rarest Roger W. Smith watches, (including a pocket watch noted further on in this article), how about a co-signed piece between Roger Smith and George Daniels. Back in November 2023 Sotheby’s Geneva auctioned an outstanding and unique George Daniels, London, Millennium wristwatch from 2001 co-signed on the dial with Roger W. Smith. As Sotheby’s catalogued, the wristwatch is the only watch ever signed by both Daniels and Smith. Given an estimate in excess of CHF 1,000,000 the watch made a superb CHF 2,177,500, (£1,913,030), including buyer’s premium.

Just to help give a comparative – the difference in value between the unique co-signed piece mentioned above versus a singular signed George Daniels, London, Millennium wristwatch. Sotheby’s offered at auction in May 2024 an 18k yellow gold Millennium wristwatch made in 1999. It fetched CHF 508,000, (£446,300), including buyer’s premium.

Derek Pratt £3.2 Million Pocket Watch

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo provided one of the stellar auction sales in 2024. A handmade oval tourbillon pocket watch made by the renowned British watchmaker Derek Pratt, FBHI, (1938–2009) for Urban Jürgensen & Sønner completed in 2005. A contemporary of Dr George Daniels the two would speak about watchmaking. Pratt was awarded the BHI Barrett Silver Medal in 1992 and the Tompion Medal from the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers in 2005.

While you might technically argue that a British watch needs to be made in the UK, Pratt’s important contribution to modern watchmaking fits perfectly within the British tradition. Additionally talented British watchmakers have taken their skills abroad before and will continue to do so much to the benefit of the industry as a whole. Watchmakers like Stephen Forsey (Greubel Forsey) and Peter Speake (PS Horology) are notable modern era examples.

As Phillips catalogued Derek Pratt was technical director at Urban Jürgensen & Sønner in Switzerland from 1982 to 2005. During which time he worked with Peter Baumberger along with Kari Voutilainen to re-establish the brand following the quartz crisis. The oval pocket watch project was started by Pratt in 1982. In 2004 Derek Pratt asked for Kari Voutilainen’s help to undertake the final finishing on the watch which was completed in 2005.

The watch has never appeared at auction before and was snapped up at an incredible CHF 3,690,000 (£3,238,583), including buyer’s premium. The estimate was simply stated as bids in excess of CHF1,000,000.

Roger W Smith Pocket Watch No. 2 in 18k yellow gold (1998), image credit: Phillips

In addition to the Daniels’ ‘Space Traveller I’ and the Derek Pratt oval pocket watch another modern pocket watch to achieve a record price is a piece made by Roger W. Smith. In June 2023 in New York, a unique handmade Roger W. Smith 18k yellow gold pocket watch with a tourbillon, spring detent escapement, perpetual calendar, moon phase and leap year indicator made US $4,900,000 (£3,891,200), including buyer’s premium. Sold by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo the price broke the world record for a British watch. The timepiece was instrumental in proving Smith’s watchmaking skills to George Daniels who then engaged Smith to help him with making the Millennium series of wristwatches. Roger Smith would then go on to establish Roger W. Smith Ltd in 2001 based on the Isle of Man.

New Generation British Watches at Auction

Fears Brunswick ‘Jubilee Edition’

While the most valuable watches will always make the headlines it’s well worth keeping an eye on the auction world to see what other British watchmakers are being featured. In December 2024, Christie’s New York included both Fears and Studio Underd0g wristwatches in their auction. The Fears, a limited edition Brunswick 38 ‘Jubilee Edition’ wristwatch sold for USD $3,780, (£3,000), while the Studio Underd0g Watermel0n Generation 1 wristwatch sold for USD 1,638, (£1300), including buyer’s premium.

Both watches were donated, by their respective watch brands, to benefit the Brian LaViolette Scholarship Foundation. Commenting on the auction of their watch Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, (4th) Managing Director at Fears Watch Company noted.

“I first met Doug LaViolette at an event and he shared the story behind the Brian LaViolette Scholarship Foundation, and I was truly inspired by its mission making it an honour to be asked to support the Foundation in a meaningful way. Supporting the LaViolette Watch Auction and Foundation is deeply important to us at Fears.  Since 1992, the Brian LaViolette Scholarship Foundation has awarded over 1,160 scholarships, helping students achieve their educational aspirations”.

Studio Underd0g Watermel0n

Speaking, for this article, about his wider observations on the positive progress across the British watchmaking industry Bowman-Scargill added.

“There is a growing appreciation for British watchmaking, both among collectors and within the industry itself. The Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers and similar initiatives have played a crucial role in elevating the profile of independent British brands, fostering collaboration, and reinforcing the UK’s rich horological heritage.

“We’ve observed increased consumer interest in British craftsmanship, with collectors actively seeking watches that embody traditional techniques while embracing modern innovation. The historical significance of British watchmaking—once at the forefront of global horology—is being rediscovered, and initiatives like the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers are helping to re-establish the UK as a key player in the industry.

“At Fears, we’ve seen first-hand how this renewed focus benefits independent brands. There’s a distinct appreciation for our heritage-driven yet contemporary approach, and as British watchmaking continues to gain momentum, we expect even greater international recognition and demand.”

Finally, to end this article which has covered a range of auction highlights for British watchmaking, two other watches caught my eye. One, a Bremont from 2021, incorporates a collab with British musician and artist Ronnie Wood. While the Bel Canto from Christopher Ward should need no introduction. Both the Bremont and Christopher Ward are members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers who will be exhibiting at the Watchmakers’ Day in March.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

When looking at a watch like the Rolex Explorer or Tudor Black Bay Pro we all picture setting out on a wild adventure to the top of mountains, the bottom of caves or across the arctic but unless you’ve been sponsored to do so, it makes more financial sense to leave them nice and safe in your watch box at home. For genuine expeditions you want a watch that’s far more accessible, far more reliable and far more durable. Enter RZE and their new watch the UTD-8000, their first digital timepiece.

Let’s talk digital. Digital displays are actually a time honoured tradition in the realm of adventure watches. Just as on the mechanical side you have icons like the aforementioned Explorer, there are a huge number of famous digital adventure tool watches. Casio’s G-Shock immediately springs to mind as does the Breitling Emergency. There’s a good reason for these tool watches, including the new RZE UTD-8000, to be digital.

In the most simplified terms possible, digital displays have fewer moving parts than mechanical ones. There are no hands to snap off after a particularly jarring bump. There are no gear trains to be damaged by excessive vibration as you drive across a gravel path. And, arguably most important of all, the backlit LCD screen is super legible in all conditions. That’s particularly true of the UTD-8000 which has an oversize digital display for boosted readability.

The top portion of the display shows the day of the week, the centre is the time and at the bottom is the date. There are also additional modes that can be selected with the pusher at 7 o’clock, which include chronograph timer, alarm, hourly chime and format changes such as 12/24 hour time display. Around the edge of the digital display is a coloured ring that describes the various functions and which is available in a choice of yellow, black or blue.

Structurally, the RZE UTD-8000’s digital module is held in place by a compressible cushion material, protecting it from shocks inside the case. The case itself measures 41mm in diameter with the bezel overhanging slightly with a diameter of 42mm. Its thickness feels proportional at 13.4mm. As with all RZE watches it’s made from titanium, specifically grade 2, which provides great strength and lightweight properties ideal for adventuring. On the aesthetic side it’s suitably rugged looking with an industrial vibe courtesy of exposed screws and angular facets.

One of the major considerations in the creation of the UTD-8000’s case was weatherproofing. Whether you’re in the mountains or the arctic, protection from the cold and severe temperature fluctuations is important. Which is why RZE tested the watch in the Canadian tundra, exposing it to -30 degree Celsius temperatures for over 24-hours, as well as +60 degree temperatures for an hour. It survived them all with continuous operation. One of the most fun tests involved zip-tying it to the front of a car and blasting along at 100km/h (about 60mph for we Brits) to give it a real rattle test.

As for pricing and availability, the RZE UTD-8000 has a full MSRP of $219 on elasticised fabric strap or $369 on titanium bracelet (approx. £170/£290). However, the fabric strap edition is being launched in a two step process giving you the chance to get your hands on it as a significant discount. If you pre-order it between March 20^th and March 31^st there’s a special launch discount at $169, following which is the standard pre-order at $199 (approx. £130/£155). For a watch that will be by your side for the rest of your life (it comes with a lifetime guarantee) that’s quite the reasonable investment.

Check out the upcoming Issue 111 of Oracle Time Magazine in April for an interview with RZE’s Huiy Tang on the launch.

More details at RZE.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

When I think about Leica’s watches, my mind immediately goes to the ZM 1 and ZM 2 whether in monochrome or with steel coloured accents. They’re dark, serious watches that reflect the intense focus and technological acumen of Leica as brand. However, when they released the ZM 11 they began to deviate away from the serious look with more colours and more extravagant styles. They’re building on that with the launch of a follow-up model, the Leica ZM 12.

The new watch has a 39mm diameter case with a circular design and gently sloped bezel. There’s an oversize crown at 3 o’clock making it easy to adjust the time and wind the movement. What stands out the most about it physically is the lugs, which are quasi-integrated. They’re formed by single, wide, flat bars that emerge from the case at 12 and 6 o’clock that then lead into the steel bracelet, technical textile strap or rubber strap. The scale-like pattern of the bracelet reminds me of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner.

The dial features the same dual layered texture as the ZM 11, with the addition of a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. In terms of colours there’s Blue Orange, Silver Grey, Olive Black and Chocolate Black. Notably the first three of those are in steel cases while the Chocolate Black is in titanium, which you can tell from its matte finish and darker grey tone.

The Blue Orange is the most colourful design Leica have made to date and the vibrant colours give the watch a particularly energetic, sporty vibe. In contrast the Chocolate Black feels very luxurious, like the wooden teak flooring of a boat, similar to the texture found on the Radiomir Eilean from Panerai. That luxe vibe is heightened by the rose gold-coloured accents of the hour markers and hands.

Beneath the surface is the automatic Leica Calibre LA-3002, produced in close collaboration with Chronode. It has an accuracy of -4/+6 seconds per day and a power reserve of 60-hours, which are really solid specs. It’s also been tested in five positions ensuring a high level of precision, similar to the tests undertaken by chronometers.

In terms of pricing and availability, prices sit between £5,735 – £6,865 depending on the colourway and strap combination and they’re being released in two waves. The first wave consists of the ZM 12 Steel Silver Grey, ZM 12 Steel Olive Black and ZM 12 Titanium Chocolate Black, which will be available from February 27^th at Leica boutiques, their online store and authorised retailers. The second wave is the rather lonely ZM 12 Steel Blue Orange being released in April.

More details at Leica.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

At this point I shouldn’t need to explain what the MoonSwatch is. There have been enough of them over the three years they’ve existed – though I will throw up my hands and say I need to update our Complete Guide to Every MoonSwatch as there are a couple of new releases that aren’t yet included such as the Earthphase from the end of last year, and now this, the MoonSwatch 1965.

As the name suggests, this MoonSwatch is inspired by the Omega Moonwatch from 1965. Or to be more specific, the Omega Speedmaster, as it wasn’t until 1969 and the first moon landing that the model earned the moniker Moonwatch. However, it wasn’t by random chance that Neil Armstrong and co. were wearing Speedmasters. Back in 1965 NASA put out a call to watch brands to submit watches for NASA flight qualification and the Speedmaster was the only one to receive the qualification. It’s this qualification that the MoonSwatch 1965 is paying tribute to.

Ironically, while in name the MoonSwatch 1965 refers to some of the oldest Speedmasters, in terms of design it’s actually strikingly similar to one of the newest. Almost exactly a year ago Omega released the Ref. 310.30.42.50.04.001, a white, lacquer dial model that took the watch world by storm thanks to its really clean design – so much so that you all voted for it as the Best Chronograph of the Year in the 2024 Oracle Time Watch Awards.

What that means for the MoonSwatch 1965 is a white dial with slightly recessed chronograph subdials paired with black hour markers and hands that match the black tachymeter bezel. Notably the subdial at the 10 o’clock position has the numeral 19 on it and the subdial at 2 o’clock has 65, because they are actually a 19-hour counter and a 65-minute counter, together denoting the year 1965. Zooming out, the 42mm case is made from grey bioceramic, which is designed to essentially represent a matte version of the Moonwatch’s steel case.

It’s equipped with a quartz chronograph movement because that’s what allows Swatch to calibrate the chronograph timers to their unusual scales. It also helps to make the watch characteristically accessible, priced at £240. As with all MoonSwatches in the UK it’s exclusive to Swatch brick and mortar boutiques with a limitation of one per day per person. The full list of participating boutiques is available on the Swatch website. It’s kind of odd because while the MoonSwatch hype has died down dramatically compared to two-three years ago, between releases like this and the Earthphase model, they’re actually making the most interesting versions yet.

More details at Swatch.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

I love Swiss watchmaking and will shamelessly wave the horological Union Jack. I also deeply respect the resurgence of US craftsmanship and Singapore-based micro-innovation. However, something about the Japanese’s profound focus on perfection sets them apart. Hajime Asaoka, with his growing bouquet of brands, proves the point. And Asaoka-san remains arguably the most influential living Japanese independent watchmaker.

Today, there is an increasing love of independent watchmaking. To the point of F.P.Journe pieces beating the other Swiss über-brands at the gavel at big auctions. This can even be seen as a reason for calming down the stratospheric value surges for Pateks and Rolex watches as the collecting community at large reassess. Diversification is at the heart of my collecting joy, and it seems many other now have the same sentiments. So how are Japanese independents different, and what does Hajime Asaoka in particular offer?

Hajime Asaoka Tourbillon Noir

Hajime Asaoka is renowned for his exquisite craftsmanship and Art Deco-infused avant-garde designs. His watches, such as the Tourbillon Noir and Tsunami, are celebrated for their fusion of traditional horology and modern aesthetics. Asaoka-san hails from Kanagawa prefecture in Japan and received his education in product design from the Tokyo University of the Arts, but without touching on watchmaking. Plus, without the strength of being born into a Swiss family of watchmakers, when he did turn his attention to the craft his perspective brought something different to any other watchmaker: a fresh, objective view.

Asaoka’s journey to becoming a self-taught watchmaker all started by reading the iconic George Daniels book Watchmaking. On top of which he watched YouTube tutorials on how to use machines he bought from eBay. Even considering the factor of Japanese self-discipline and perfectionism, Asaoka-san’s story stands out. From his debut in 2005 as an independent watchmaker, it took him only four years to develop an in-house tourbillon. This was the Tourbillon #1 prototype. It led to a membership in the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), a Swiss-based organisation dedicated to fine handmade independent watchmaking. Hajime Asaoka is one of only two Japanese members and will exhibit in Geneva at this year’s AHCI event during Watches and Wonders.

Hajime Asaoka Tsunami, image credit: Phillips

Following from there is arguably the most well-known of Hajime Asaoka’s limited creations, the Tsunami, which stands out as a classical 37mm dress watch. It is imbued with monochrome Art Deco cues, a trademark of Asaoka-san. The strong graphic expression features a a distinct ‘tuxedo’-style dial within a Calatrava-like case, a stepped bezel and a magnificent balance. Turn the Tsunami around and you’ll be faced with the 15mm of oscillating balance in all its glory. This is matched to an extra-large mainspring barrel and a distinct, clean movement aesthetic. All movement components have been manufactured in-house in Hajime Asaoka’s Tokyo workshop, and it’ll take on any strong Swiss piece in the horological ring.

Hajime Asaoka Tsunami ‘Art Deco’

For 2024, the Tsunami ‘Art Deco’ underlined its elegant inspiration with a vibrant blue and a striated dial centre that got it nominated for a GPHG award. In fact, Asaoka-associated Otsuka Lotec was one of the two other Japanese nominees, with Jiro Katayama taking home a prize for his steampunk-luxe No.6. It goes to show how over the years Hajime has spearheaded a Japanese contingent of independent watchmakers who have followed his path to global success.

In 2025, Hajime Asaoka’s Art Deco touch will become remarkably literal with the Montre a Tact (at time of writing still in the concept stage), unusually missing a crystal. The bezel appears almost flush with the case edge, with relief and raised polished numerals that transcend aesthetic purpose. Instead of a dial, there is a rotating chapter ring with a raised dot for hours, encircling a centre disc. This has a totemic raised minute hand with a distinct architectural flair. It is a watch that offers a unique perspective on watch design, inspired by a Breguet pocket watch. One that could be read in the dark by tactility alone, and of course, for the blind and visually impaired – similar in concept to Eone.

Hajime Asaoka Montre A Tact

Asked about his new creation, Hajime Asaoka tells me: “This year’s new model is the Montre A Tact. It is watch that allows you to tell the time by touch. The design incorporates features to ensure that the movement is not damaged even if they are touched forcefully. When arranging it, I made the pivot shaft of the watch hands very thick and supported it with a strong ball bearing. I also added a minute hand to improve its practicality. The Montre A Tact’s hands are vulnerable to being knocked out of alignment, a problem my new watch solves with a self-correcting mechanism. The images are design proposals, and the watch that is made may be slightly different.”

As CEO of Precision Watch Tokyo Co., Asaoka-san has developed two other mid-priced brands, supporting Jiro Katayama’s Otsuka Lotec. Kurono Tokyo has an increasing number of collectors who want to be a part of its club-like atmosphere. Ironically, the Kurono (phonetical enunciation of Chrono in Japanese) Tokyo brand was created by Asaoka for a simple reason. To afford him to wear his own designs. Kurono Tokyo offers strong quality in the £2,000-£4,000 segment with movements from Seiko and Miyota, and you will easily be pulled in by the Japanese craftsmanship. Add a low-production rarity which makes you feel part of a friendly Japanese gentleman’s club, and it is easy to see the appeal.

Kurono Tokyo Grand Urushi Aoyama Edition

There is a vast distance in price between Kurono Tokyo and Asaoka-san’s £100K creations. However, distinct similarities are present, with an understated elegance and the characteristic flavour of Japanese culture. The dynamic, soft lines of the 34mm to 38mm cases usually have a fully polished finish, emphasising sleek ergonomics. With polished feuille hands on a mocha-tinged lacquered dial, my Grand Urushi Aoyama Edition above is a distilled example of the brand. Like many of the Kurono dials, its depth comes from the traditional technique of hand-applied Urushi lacquer. This is extracted and refined from tree sap in minute quantities, giving a deep gloss similar to Grand Feu enamel. The dial production has a high fail rate and weeks of drying time before assembly.

Kurono Tokyo Chronograph 3 HISUI

All watches by Hajime Asaoka have a discreet charm, strong dial art and sizing that makes for instant wearability. Within his Haute creations, there is a strong emphasis on traditional craftsmanship. Hajime Asaoka’s love of big balance wheels are a vivid reminder of the life within, an always mesmerising detail. With this year’s Montre a Tact project, we will see a new side to Asaoka-san. But it is one that still leans on an evocative and un unusual Art Deco aesthetic. Even the experimental Montre a Tact has an Asaoka signature. And it is one that that grabs your attention with the smallest of details. And for a regular watch lover whose budget remains under the mid-priced £5K ceiling, his sub-brand Kurono Tokyo offers a lot. Even for the most astute collector of wristwear.

More details at Hajime Asaoka.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Audemars Piguet are kicking off their 150th anniversary celebrations in a big way by releasing a brand new in-house perpetual calendar movement for 2025, the 7138. It combines several of their past innovations with the specs of the calibre 7121 but the ultra-thin profile of the 5133. It’s presented in a trio of watches, two Royal Oak 41mm editions and a Code 11.59. At the same time the calibre 5135 is being retired with a final limited edition skeleton Royal Oak. AP have also released a handful of other Code 11.59 and Royal Oak recolours for the anniversary that we aren’t featuring here because the perpetual calendars are frankly much more interesting.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 41mm Calibre 7138

First up are the two Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 41mm models. Both of them have the same physical dimensions, measuring 41mm in diameter and a very svelte 9.5mm thick. That slimness is possible thanks to the new proportions of the Calibre 7138, which is itself only 4.1mm thick due to the integration of all of the perpetual calendar functions onto a single layer of the movement.

The key difference between the two models is the case materials. The first is produced in stainless steel, the material that the Royal Oak was originally designed to be made in when it was developed by Gerald Genta in the 1970s. The original RO was a driving force behind the popularity of integrated bracelet steel sports watches in the late 20^th century (and their resurgence over the last few years).

Second is the sand gold edition of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 41mm. Sand gold is AP’s proprietary gold alloy that they launched around this time last year with the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked. Maybe it’s just a timing coincidence but I associate it with being the signature material of Ilaria Resta, the CEO who took over right before sand gold was introduced. It has a paler tone than yellow gold, which helps tone down the ostentation to tasteful levels.

Both of these watches are being added to the standard range, though there are also extra 150-piece special edition versions that feature commemorative 150th Anniversary casebacks. Through the exhibition casebacks you can see the new movement. It has a 55-hour power reserve and operates at 4Hz with automatic winding. The perpetual calendar complication means it will accurately display the date until the year 2100 without adjustment, if kept wound. It has functions for date, month, leap year, weeks, moonphase, days and 24-hour indicator. The steel edition is £94,900 while the sand gold is price on request.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 41mm Calibre 7138

In addition to the two Royal Oaks above, Audemars Piguet have also released a Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 41mm housing the new calibre 7138. It has the same case diameter of 41mm but is slightly thicker at 10.6mm due to the higher sides of the Code 11.59 compared to the Oak. The case here is made of white gold, which feels like the halfway house between the steel and sand gold of the ROs – luxurious while not being overt about it.

The dial is a lovely sky blue colour, matching the steel Royal Oak model. It reminds me somewhat of IWC’s Portugieser collection from 2024 as well as Patek Philippe’s denim style Nautilus. Light blue has always been a popular colour in horology so I’m loathe to call it a trend exactly, but it’s certainly a colour that’s on people’s radar in a big way at the moment. The dial also features the Code 11.59’s signature embossed texture with its basket weave-esque design.

Housed below the dial is, as mentioned, the new calibre 7138. It has the same specs as the Royal Oaks, with a 55-hour power reserve and all that goodness. The Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 41mm is also available in either a standard edition or a 150-piece limited run with commemorative 150^th anniversary caseback. It’s priced at £94,900.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150^th Anniversary” Openworked 41mm

In addition to a new movement, Audemars Piguet are retiring one as well. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150^th Anniversary” Openworked 41mm limited edition marks the swansong of the calibre 5135. It’s the movement that has powered AP’s openworked perpetual calendars for the past decade, based on a movement that traces its heritage to 1978. It’s been used in several notable references including 2023’s Cactus Jack edition.

Here, it’s housed in a 41mm case in titanium, following the classic design shapes of the Royal Oak with its integrated bracelet and octagonal bulk metallic glass bezel (learn more about BMG here. The dial is inspired by the Ref. 25729 pocket watch held in the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet (AP’s museum). It has a rich blue colour on the inner bezel and skeletonised subdials. It matches the vibrant tone of the moonphase display at 6 o’clock.

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150^th Anniversary” features an exhibition caseback featuring an engraving that denotes it as a limited edition out of 150 pieces. The skeletonised rotor also allows a very good view into the inner workings of the movement, a fitting way to bid goodbye to the calibre. It’s also price on request.

More details at Audemars Piguet.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

The upcoming G-Shock GA-V01 series tends to provoke strong reactions in people, and it’s easy to see why. To call it divisive may be too generous, as it seems to be almost universally hated or at least strongly disliked for aesthetic reasons by many vocal G-Shock fans online. It’s safe to assume that Casio is […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

Read More 

The new Casio MRW-230H looks like what a traditional diving-style G-Shock would probably look like if it existed. (There is the G-Shock Frogman diving series, but we’re talking about a traditional dive watch with a rotating bezel.) The MRW-230H has a dimpled band and a rotating timer bezel made of aluminum. It measures 47.9 x […]

​G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog 

Read More 

Rosenbusch are a German microbrand who kicked things off confidently a few years ago with The Quest wristwatch, a modern reinterpretation of classic 1970s integrated sports watch design featuring a curved, hexagonal dial. For their latest release, they’re riffing on that hexagon shape in even stronger fashion while at the same time taking it in a completely different aesthetic direction. The Horizon is one of the most distinctive dress watches I’ve seen in a long while – coming to Kickstarter on March 4^th.

Starting with the case, the Horizon measures 39.5mm in diameter in stainless steel with a thickness of 8.1 at the edges and 9.8mm the centre of the curved sapphire crystal. Here the case itself is fully hexagonal with rounded corners in contrast to The Quest, which had a round case with a hexagonal bezel and dial. By slimming the design down to just the polished hexagon, the Horizon feels dramatically more refined, especially around the lugs which are no longer in the integrated style.

I’m trying to think of iconic dress watches with unusual case shapes like this and there really aren’t a huge number. There are a handful of ellipses, retro TV style shapes and (perhaps most common of all) cushion designs but even then, none of them capture the distinctive smooth angularity of the Rosenbusch Horizon’s hexagon. Plus, with 100m water resistance and an accessible price tag, the Horizon is practical enough to be a daily wearer if you don’t fancy saving it for formal occasions.

There are four version of the watch being produced and each of them has a completely different interpretation of the dial, with a variety of finishes, colours and hour markers on display. First up is Black Pearl, which has a Musuo Black dial with applied indexes coated with lume. Musuo paint absorbs 99.5% of light giving it an incredibly dark appearance like the void of a black hole. It’s essentially an accessible alternative to the Vanta Black used by haute horology brands like H. Moser. This edition also does away with the 6 o’clock date window present on the other three.

Second is Copper Sun, which presents the Rosenbusch Horizon in salmon with a vertically brushed finish. It has the same set of indexes as the Black Pearl (am I the only one thinking about Pirates of the Caribbean with that name?) but here they’re presented in gunmetal grey instead of brighter silver. Next is Canvas White, a linen dial interpretation with Arabic numeral hour markers. As the name suggests, linen dials have a light cross-hatched style texture that emulates the texture of summer fabrics.

The last of the four designs is Urban Blue, the least dressy of the quartet. It’s denim blue with a vertically brushed centre and stepped hour scale with Arabic numerals. Matching the dial, it’s on a denim style strap to complete the casual, urban explorer vibes. Although it’s not as if there’s no precedent for luxury denim watches after Patek Philippe created their own ode to denim with the Ref. 5980/60G.

Inside is the Sellita SW210, visible through an exhibition caseback. It’s a manual winding piece with 45-hour power reserve and accuracy of +/-7 seconds per day. It also has Sellita’s elaboré grade finishing with straight line Côtes de Genève across its plate. Thanks to it being a manual piece, there’s no rotor to obscure the view either, giving you full access to admire its inner workings.

The Rosenbusch Horizon is available on Kickstarter from March 4^th at a price of €875, a 30% discount from its final retail price which will be €1,250 (approx. £725/£1,035). For a steel dress watch with a manual elaboré movement and a diverse array of finishing and colour options, that’s great value. Whether you’re a fan of Musou, linen, denim or salmon dials, there’s something here for everyone, all wrapped up in that distinctive hexagon case.

More details at Rosenbusch.

​Oracle Time 

Read More 

Confession time, I like decompression timer watches. They’re a fun niche within what is already one of the most prominent watchmaking niches, dive watches. If you’ve not come across one before, they’re a style of dive watch that features a circular table in the centre of the dial that displays information related to how long you have to spend on decompression stops when resurfacing from a dive in order to prevent the bends. Microbrand Héron have released their interpretation of this archetype with the launch of the new Héron Marinor Rainbow.

Straight away the thing that sticks out to me is the value. This is the first decompression timer I’ve seen in the past five years or so with a sub-£1,000 price tag. The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961, Delma Retro Shell Star and Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor Elite are all in the £1,000 – £1,500 bracket while the Marinor Rainbow is £510 on steel bracelet and £460 on rubber strap. You might expect then that it’s got less impressive specs but that’s not the case.

Said case measures a well-proportioned 39mm x 12.9mm (including crystal) in stainless steel with a 300m water resistance rating. This is a better water resistance rating than both the Mido and Christopher Ward, meaning the Marinor Rainbow actually outperforms the pricier pieces. I also personally think that it’s got a much cleaner and more legible display than its rivals as well.

In the centre is a 12-hour display (my one irk being that the hour hand extends past it instead of pointing to it), around which is the rainbow decompression timer. Decompression timers are difficult to get right because they have to display a lot of information in a relatively small area meaning they can look cluttered and difficult to read. The Marinor Rainbow avoids this by employing a bold, graphic style.

Wherever a number is noted, there’s a black gap in the recessed, sandwich rainbow scale providing strong contrast to the white numerals, ensuring they’re legible. The black areas also provide a clear visual break where there’s a change in decompression timing required. Héron actively acknowledge they were inspired by heritage models from brands like Mido, so they’ve evidently studied and made their own improvements. That all said, I should probably explain how the scale works.

The numbers on the bridge at 12 o’clock denote the depth at which you are swimming in metres. You then follow the relevant scale clockwise for the amount of time in minutes you spend at that depth. Where you intersect with a number on the scale, that number denotes how much time you need to spend on decompression stops when resurfacing. You’ll note that the first numeral on each of the scales is a 0, meaning that if you spend less than that amount of time at that depth, a decompression stop is not required.

Outside the decompression timer is a 60-minute scale and beyond that we get to the unidirectional bezel with 60-minute timer. You can use the bezel in conjunction with the decompression table to stay safe while diving. When you’re starting your stop, rotate the bezel so that the arrow lines up with the minute hand to mark its starting point and track elapsed time easily regardless of what the local time is.

Beneath the rainbow dial is housed the Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve. This is the area where the Marinor Rainbow is maybe a bit behind its rival decompression timers because Christopher Ward uses a COSC movement and the Mido has an 80-hour power reserve. However, I think the Miyota movement is perfectly acceptable given the price of the watch, which to reiterate is about half that of the rivals we’ve been comparing it to. Need I say impulse buy?

More details at Héron.

​Oracle Time 

Read More