Fred Meyer Jewelers currently has the full metal G-Shock GMB2100D-1A available for $330, which is nearly 40% off the list price of $550. The GMB2100D-1A, one of the launch models for the GM-B2100 series in 2022, has been discontinued in favor of the GMB2100SD-1A. Although we would recommend the GMB2100SD-1A over the GMB2100D-1A for its […]
G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog
With a name like Rocket, the debut watch from Ember Watch Company feels like a stylish ode to all things sci-fi. The 40mm diameter stainless steel case is deeply facetted with sharp angles and lines featuring a bead-blasted matte finish that contrasts with the smooth, polished bezel. Combine that with the bright, colourful dials, such as1 white with mint green, and it almost wouldn’t look out of place in a sci-fi film. A fusion of concepts that are simultaneously retro and modern. Powering the piece is the Seiko NH38A with 41-hour power reserve.
Available at Ember Watch Company.
There’s a level of detail and intricacy to handcrafted watches that other forms of production simply cannot match. Take for example the Justin Richardson Tank, inspired by iconic Art Deco watches like the Cartier Tank and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. The facets of its angular case are immaculate and the dial is so incredibly precise. Plus, by virtue of each piece being made by hand in their Canterbury studio, they’re totally bespoke and customisable, giving you the chance to consult on case materials, dial design, finishing and more.
Available at Justin Richardson.
Finding what inspires you is always the foundation of a good microbrand and Primitive Haus are clear on where their inspirations lie. Influenced by the German minimalist movement spearheaded by Bauhaus, they aim to bring colourful watches to life that blend style and function seamlessly. Recently with the TimeKeeper Type-A they’ve been exploring fresh colours and designs such as fumé blue, vibrant purple and a gorgeous dimple dial variant that looks like freshly fallen snow. They house the Miyota 82S5 with 42-hour power reserve.
Available at Primitive Haus.
Wayforth’s Voyager is designed to keep up with you on your travels wherever they may take you. In that endeavour, it’s equipped with a chronograph function and a dual time zone display. A chronograph can be used to measure your speed or even distance travelled with a quick calculation, while the dual time display, consisting of an inner rotating bezel with 12-hour scale, lets you track local time and home time while globetrotting. There are eight colours to choose from, each housing the Seiko VK64 meca-quartz movement.
Available at Wayforth.
If you’re going to invest in an homage watch, you may as well look for something with quality and class. Zanuti produce an extensive range of homage watches that capture the styles and vibes of some of the world’s most famous watches at a fraction of the price. The GMT for example features a colourful two-tone GMT bezel available in numerous iconic colourways such as brown and black or red and blue. It’s also available housing either a quartz or automatic movement, giving you plenty of choice as a collector.
Available at Zanuti.
Oracle Time
At the tail end of 2024 Breitling released a limited edition 140th anniversary collection which included the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. A watch that featured the Swiss maison’s first ever manufacture perpetual calendar chrono movement. Now that movement is making its first appearance outside of the anniversary limited edition, joining the core Navitimer collection in the form of the Breitling Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in ice blue.
The watch measures a broad 43mm in diameter in stainless steel with a bi-metallic construction that sees the bezel produced from platinum. It adds a luxe edge to the sporty aviation watch that’s fitting for an haute horology perpetual calendar. Adding to its wrist presence is a thickness of 14.94mm, making it something of a wrist monster. But hey, if you’re going to show off any watch, why not a platinum bezel perp cal?
One of the largest changes between this edition of the B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and its anniversary limited version, aside from the case materials, is the dial. Instead of golden coloured it’s now a lovely shade of sky blue (in watchmaking light blue is a very common pairing with platinum, especially from the likes of Rolex). The pale tone really lets the sunray brushing come to the fore and contrasts nicely with the darker navy blue of the moonphase subdial at 12 o’clock. The subdials also show contrast by having snailed finishing rather than sunbrushing.
There is a lot of information on display here. Starting with the bezel it features a circular slide rule scale, which you can learn all about here. Inside that is the standard hour and minute scale with baton markers that also doubles up as the chronograph seconds scale. The four subdials then display moonphase at 12, 30-minute timer and date at 3 o’clock, leap year and month at 6, and then finally small seconds and days of the week at 9.
All these myriad complications are controlled by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B19 automatic movement. It has a 96-hour power reserve, which is seriously impressive for a watch as complicated as this due to the power intensive nature of housing multiple functions. It’s also COSC chronometer certified, ensuring great accuracy and reliability in multiple conditions.
It’s worth noting though that while this is now a core collection model, that doesn’t mean it’s not still extremely exclusive (if the platinum bezel wasn’t enough to communicate that). On the steel, seven-link bracelet it has a price of £25,400. Whether it’s expanding their technical, in-house production or adding more brands to their banner like Universal Genève and (rumour has it) Gallet, it’s nice to see Breitling pushing their boundaries.
More details at Breitling.
Oracle Time
The following G-Shock watches are scheduled to be released in the United States sometime in March 2025. Master of G Rescue Yellow Series The Gravitymaster GRB300RY-1A9 ($300, left), Rangeman GPRH1000RY1A ($500, middle), and Mudman GW9500MRY1A9 ($400, right) are three advanced Master of G models featuring rescue-inspired yellow resin bands. The GW9500MRY1A9 has a stainless steel […]
G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog
A watch is made of many parts but for collectors the most important ones are often the dial, the case and the movement. However, another key part of a watch is the story behind its creation and the people and objects that inspire them. That’s especially true of the Ball Engineer III Bright Path, which features an unusual tigerite dial.
The story of the Bright Path is linked to that of Jim Thorpe, an American athlete born in 1882 who would later become the first Native American to win an Olympic gold medal for the USA. Thorpe’s Native American name was Wa-tho-huk, which translates to Bright Path, hence it being adopted as the Ball’s name. His route through sport and the Olympics is quite the tale of resilience and motivation as bright as his name.
While competing in the decathalon, a brand new event at the 1912 games, he discovered that someone had stolen his track shoes. He ended up scavenging a mismatched replacement pair, one from a bin and the other from a teammate, and went on to win gold despite the setback. At the same games he also won gold in the pentathlon, came fourth in high jump and seventh in long jump. However, a year later his medals and titles were stripped from him as it was discovered he had previously been paid as a semi-professional baseballer, violating the Olympics’ strict rules on amateur athletes at the time.
The decision to strip his medal and title was controversial because it was decided after the International Olympic Committee (IOC)’s 30-day period for challenges and disqualification following the closing of the games. It wasn’t until 1983, 30 years after his death, the IOC reversed the decision and posthumously re-awarded the titles and medals – in line with the relaxing of rules related to amateurism in sport. Though in his life Thorpe made the best of the situation because if the IOC were going to declare him a professional, he may as well join some professional teams, becoming a star of baseball, football and basketball.
How does that translate into a watch from Ball? Well, the Engineer III is one of their sportiest models with shock resistance to 5,000Gs, anti-magnetic to 1,000 gauss and water resistant to 100m, making it as versatile as Thorpe himself. In terms of size, the Ball Engineer III Bright Path is available at 36mm, 40mm and 43mm, adding another layer to the model’s versatility.
What really makes the Ball Engineer III Bright Path stand out though is the tigerite (aka tiger eye) semi-precious stone dial. Ball are not a brand typically associated with stone dials so it’s been interesting to see them slowly expand the number of watches that feature them, such as their recent Year of the Snake release in malachite. The logic of using tigerite here is the gold colour is symbolic of Thorpe’s gold medals. Beneath the surface of the 36mm edition is the COSC chronometer BALL RR1101-C, based on the ETA 2892-A2 with 42-hour power reserve, while the 40mm and 43mm house the BALL RR1103-C, based on the ETA 2824-2/Sellita SW200 with 38-hour power reserve, also COSC certified.
In terms of price and availability, it’s limited to 1,000 pieces at each size with prices of £2,020 for the 40mm and 43mm and £2,270 for the 36mm (due to the slight differences in movement). As an unusual Ball timepiece that combines sportiness with a semi-precious dial and an inspirational story about a sportsman who more people should know about, it’s a cool watch.
More details at Ball.
Oracle Time
It’s the start of March, which means it’s time for March LA.B to launch their annual tribute to the brand’s founding month. Last year they released the AM2 “Millésimée March 2024” Titanium and for 2025 they’ve changed things up by adding a GMT complication. The result is the March LA.B AM2 “Millésimée March 2025” Slim GMT Titanium, which I have had the pleasure of reviewing in the metal.
Out of the box, the first thing that strikes me is the titanium case. For one thing the entire watch is incredibly light, weighing just 82g even with a full metal bracelet. You can easily wear it all day without any strain on the wrist whatsoever. The second thing that jumps out about the case is the finishing. Titanium is notoriously difficult to finish, which is why most watch brands default to a matte sandblast finish as that’s the simplest, but March LA.B have decided to push beyond that with a polished finish.
In order to achieve this, they’ve had to use grade 5 titanium rather than the grade 2 many other microbrands use. On a technical level the difference is that grade 2 is commercially pure titanium while grade 5 is an alloy with aluminium and vanadium. What that means on a technical level is that grade 5 is much harder and scratch resistant than grade 2, which in turn means the surface of the metal can actually sustain a polish. Combined with the AM2 “Millésimée March 2025” Slim GMT Titanium’s sharp facets and angular, square design, it works really well to catch the light in interesting ways. It’s also paired with brushed finishing along the flanks for a nice contrast.
The attribute of ‘slim’ in the watch’s name come from the fact the sapphire crystal has been lowered by 0.9mm, giving the watch a total thickness of 12.5mm. That’s by no means ultra-thin but it still fits below a cuff quite well and helps reduce some of the innate chunkiness that comes with a square design. The bracelet also fits really well with a sleek H-link design, though the buckle is a bit on the fiddly side. If you find it too fiddly though it’s easy to replace thanks to its quick change spring bars.
Bringing us to the March LA.B AM2 “Millésimée March 2025” Slim GMT Titanium’s dial, it’s a variation on the AM2 “Shades” GMT. Instead of black, the multi-layer design is in dark grey to pair with the titanium case. The central raised area features a tightly woven texture that responds well to natural light. Around the centre on a lower, brushed layer is the 12-hour scale with distinctive bar indexes at unusual angles. Encompassing everything around the periphery is the 24-hour GMT scale split into day/night sections in white and black.
I like the use of colour, as it runs the full gradient from white at the bottom to grey in the middle and black at the top. Though the watch is by no means monochrome as there are a handful of green accents to be found. Specifically the tip of the GMT hand, the inscription of GMT on the dial and also the number 3 on the date disc (a nod to March being the third month of the year).
On the reverse side of the watch is a solid titanium caseback that protects the movement inside, which is one of the newer generation of La Joux-Perret calibres. Specifically, the G110, which was first premiered in a March LA.B watch when it was launched. It’s a really solid movement, assembled in France, with a 68-hour power reserve.
The combination of the titanium case and La Joux-Perret movement give the piece a price of €2,595 (approx. £2,150). It’s also a limited edition of 133 pieces, making it even more exclusive. On the whole I think the March LA.B AM2 “Millésimée March 2025” Slim GMT Titanium has more of an industrial vibe compared to the Art Deco style of the 2024 edition. The display is more technical with the addition of the GMT and the wider variation in colours makes it feel more active.
More details at March LA.B.
Oracle Time
Like the GW-M5610U-1 being sold as the GWM5610-1, Casio America is selling the G-Shock DW-5600UE-1 with the updated module 3525 under its DW5600E-1V product page, with the specifications and images now updated to reflect the DW-5600UE-1. The product description also states, “Disclaimer: The product’s name may differ on packaging due to an upgraded module.” The […]
G-Central G-Shock Watch Fan Blog
Oracle Time is pleased to announce the launch of a brand-new watch exhibition and showcase taking place in London this summer: Hands On Horology. The event, brought to you by Oracle Time, promises to focus squarely on what matters to collectors, getting up close with some great timepieces. Hands On Horology is taking place at Protein Studios in Shoreditch on 14th June 2025, make sure to register your interest via the link at the bottom of this article to stay informed about ticket release.
The show will feature exhibitions from 40 watch and watch accessory brands (to be announced on the official Hands On Horology Instragam account) ranging from homegrown British microbrands to some of the big names of Swiss horology that we all know and love. You’ll be able to chat with brand representatives and watchmakers as well as, crucially, try on their latest covetable releases in the natural light of Protein Studios. If you like what you see, you’ll also be able to buy watches at the event, walking out with a new tick to your tock.
At the same time, it’s also a great opportunity to meet your fellow collectors and watch enthusiasts. Have a drink, have a mingle and chat about anything and everything horological with likeminded watch lovers. Though we can’t guarantee they’ll have similar or even good taste in watches… You can also come and say hello to us as virtually the entire Oracle Time team will be present for the entire day.
Hands On Horology will be running from 9:30AM to 6:00PM split into a morning and afternoon sessions. Additionally, a VIP experience will be on offer with additional goodies and benefits that will be announced when tickets go live. All we can say regarding that for the time being is Oracle Time Members will receive a discount on that VIP experience so if you’re not already, consider becoming a member today.
Register your interest at Hands On Horology.
Oracle Time
Ok. I’ll say it. I am in love. If there’s anything in watchmaking that really gets me right to the core it’s a neo-retro timepiece that with a single look transports me back to the 1920s and the golden age of luxury travel. If you let me strap the new Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole Black and Gold to my wrist I would happily board the Titanic even knowing how it ends. Or in aviation, later in the 20th century, get me a ticket on Concorde. Whatever the mode of transportation, I don’t mind, just let me travel in style and make use of this world timer limited edition.
This watch is essentially a revamp and recolour of the 2022 Captain Cook Over-Pole limited edition, trading the cool fumé dial and arctic vibe of that piece for pure luxury. The new watch measures a larger 39mm in diameter giving it a bigger presence on the wrist and the stainless steel case is now coated with yellow gold PVD. Paired with a black ceramic world time bezel, it drips with charisma.
Aesthetically it reminds me a little of the gold plated Zodiac Super Sea Wolf, a watch that I consider a guilty pleasure because I really like it even though I struggle with the principle of a gold dive watch. I have no guilt however about a golden worldtimer. Especially when paired with a beautifully restrained white dial beneath the box sapphire glass, with gold PVD hour markers and delicate 24-hour numerals. The hour markers are also curved, which creates the illusion of having a curved dial like a vintage Omega Pie Pan. It all comes together really well to create the luxe vibe of the piece.
Another part of that aesthetic comes from the strap and bracelet options. It’s presented on either a beads of rice style bracelet, also in gold PVD, or a vintage style brown leather strap. Both work really well on the watch. The bracelet turns up the ostentation by another degree and wouldn’t look out of place in the tea car of the Orient Express while the leather strap gives the watch a far more practical air. I could imagine Indiana Jones trading out his gold-coloured Hamilton Boulton for one of these on strap.
Inside the Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole Black and Gold is the R862 Worldtimer movement, a manual calibre with an 80-hour power reserve. It’s based on the Swatch Group’s signature movement, the Powermatic 80, a well respected movement that combines good specs with a reasonable price point.
Just like the 2022 Over-Pole, the Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole Black and Gold is a limited edition of 1,962 pieces. That’s a reference to the debut year of the Captain Cook collection. It’s priced at £2,650, which is a touch more than the 2022 version but then this one does have a yellow gold PVD coating to make up for the difference. Certainly, the nicest Rado of 2025 so far if not the entirety of the past 12 months.
More details at Rado.
Oracle Time
George Daniels London The Space Traveller I (1982), image credit: Sothebys
With the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, Watchmakers’ Day on 8 March it is a perfect opportunity to cover recent auction highlights featuring modern British watches. This article covers a broad selection of examples from the rarest to the newest. Plus providing further insight we have commentary from Alexander Barter, watch author as well as Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, (4th) Managing Director at Fears Watch Company about the tradition and innovation to be found in British watchmaking.
In order to start this article we first need to go back to 2 July 2019 when a then world record auction price had just been paid for an English watch, and a pocket watch at that! The watch, a remarkable piece named ‘Space Traveller I’ from 1982, was handmade by the famed British horologist and watchmaker Dr George Daniels, CBE, MBE, FBHI (1926 – 2011). Daniels’ is perhaps best known as the creator of the revolutionary Co-Axial escapement adopted by Omega in 1999. The successful bid came to a staggering £3.6 million including buyer’s premium with the watch sold at Sotheby’s New Bond Street, London auction rooms. Bidding for the pocket watch quickly exceeded the pre-auction estimate set at £700,000-1,000,000.
The sale came at a time when the watch auction market was well and truly on the way up. In 1988 Sotheby’s had sold the watch for CHF 220,000 (£194,190), now it was worth £3.6 million. Collectors were paying more attention to independent watchmakers so prices were quickly rising. But above all sales like the Daniels’ ‘Space Traveller I’ put modern British watchmaking in the limelight for a growing global collector community.
In many ways Daniels’ watchmaking spans the traditional to the modern. He sought to improve the watch movement but also studied the craft of classic watchmaking including the legacy of the English watch. In 1980 he was made Master of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, a London City Guild founded in 1631. Indeed it is this rich history of British watchmaking which has helped inform and guide many British watchmakers. To give insight into this legacy as well as the quest for innovation I spoke with Alexander Barter to get his views.
Alexander Barter is a watch consultant, researcher and author. His books include, ‘The Watch: A Twentieth-Century Style History’ and ‘500 Years, 100 Watches’. I started by asking for his thoughts about the historical influences of British watchmaking on modern British watchmakers.
“One of the most exciting aspects of today’s leading British watchmakers is how they draw on Britain’s rich horological heritage and traditions in the design of their timepieces. For example, if you examine the architecture of the movements created by Roger Smith, Charles Frodsham & Co, and the Project 248 movement of Craig and Rebecca Struthers, the connection to traditional English watchmaking is immediately apparent.
“As the Struthers themselves have stated, Project 248 picks up where the British watchmaking industry left off in the late 19th century, featuring the once commercially extinct English lever escapement, which had been largely replaced by the Swiss lever in the 20th century. The design of their balance references the work of George Daniels, while the rocking bar keyless work pays homage to Derek Pratt. The almost solid movement backplate, with its intricately engraved decoration, is heavily influenced by 19th-century British watch movements”.
Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer, image credit: Phillips
Continuing Barter noted, “Roger Smith and Charles Frodsham & Co. take a similarly purist approach, ensuring that their watches are created in the traditional English style while innovating within those parameters. Smith, a direct protégé of George Daniels, mastered all 34 essential horological skills, allowing him to create entirely handmade watches. His timepieces incorporate Smith’s own development of the Daniels co-axial escapement and are meticulously hand finished.
“Charles Frodsham & Co, meanwhile, achieved a major breakthrough by successfully miniaturising Daniels’ double impulse chronometer escapement for a wristwatch—an accomplishment even Daniels had not achieved in his lifetime. Their watch, 16 years in development, features a perfectly symmetrical 43-jewel movement with two going barrels and two escape wheels driving a single free-sprung balance, all finished to the highest standard with satin-brushed and black-polished steel. Their ceramic dial is influenced by a watch the firm made in 1903 and cases are made from 22ct gold, almost unheard of in contemporary watchmaking but traditional for English gold watches until 1798.
“Makers such as these, operating at the highest level of modern independent watchmaking, are breathing fresh life into an industry that Britain once dominated—before the Swiss ultimately took control. In reviving this craft, they remain true to the principles of the English style, while also borrowing and drawing inspiration from notable continental figures, such as Abraham-Louis Breguet, whose work profoundly influenced George Daniels, the man credited with reinvigorating British horology.
“What Smith, Frodsham & Co, and Struthers all have in common is their deep respect for traditional British craftsmanship, their commitment to producing watches in the English style, and their refusal to compromise on quality—ensuring that Britain’s horological legacy continues to thrive in the modern era”.
Roger W. Smith 18k white gold Series 2 Edition 3, image credit: Phillips
While the speculation and hype might not be quite what it once was in the secondary watch market post the 2022 peak, pieces by the top leading independents are still sought after. So your plans of buying one of these watches at a bargain basement price may need to be put on hold. However variations in auction prices can still be found in the market. Take for example two very rare 18k white gold Series 2, Edition 3 wristwatches made by the highly esteemed and important British watchmaker Dr Roger W Smith, OBE, which came up for auction in 2024.
Remarkably given their rarity both wristwatches sold in November 2024. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo sold one Roger W. Smith 18k white gold Series 2, Edition 3 wristwatch while Christie’s sold another. The Christie’s watch was noted as No.3 while the Phillips’ watch was listed as No.4 in an edition of just five 18k white gold watches produced. Both are manual wind, sized 38 mm, with co-axial escapements, small seconds and power reserve indication. The Phillips’, piece was owned by a Japanese collector and came with accessories including a service history booklet as well as a fitted bespoke presentation box.
The Christie’s watch was given an estimate of CHF 220,000 – CHF 450,000 and sold in Geneva on 11 November 2024 for CHF 252,000, (£222,210), including buyer’s premium.
Phillips’ watch was given an estimate of HK$2,350,000 – 4,700,000 and sold in Hong Kong on 22 November 2024 for HK$3,429,000, (£349,280), including buyer’s premium. The higher value for the Phillips’ watch may have related to its catalogued date of production in circa 2013, while the Christie’s watch was catalogued as having London hallmarks for 2010. Additionally the Phillips watch came with more accessories. Like all auctions however it can simply come down to the bidders on the day making it challenging to provide exact comparisons. What these results do show is the continuing interest by collectors in rare watches by Roger W. Smith.
As a small side note, the Christie’s watch came with the opportunity for the successful bidder to have a free service of the movement up to 6 months following the purchase at Christie’s by Roger W. Smith and a visit of his workshop on the Isle of Man – lucky winning bidder!
Co signed George Daniels and Roger W Smith Millennium, image credit: Sotheby’s
On the subject of values for the very rarest Roger W. Smith watches, (including a pocket watch noted further on in this article), how about a co-signed piece between Roger Smith and George Daniels. Back in November 2023 Sotheby’s Geneva auctioned an outstanding and unique George Daniels, London, Millennium wristwatch from 2001 co-signed on the dial with Roger W. Smith. As Sotheby’s catalogued, the wristwatch is the only watch ever signed by both Daniels and Smith. Given an estimate in excess of CHF 1,000,000 the watch made a superb CHF 2,177,500, (£1,913,030), including buyer’s premium.
Just to help give a comparative – the difference in value between the unique co-signed piece mentioned above versus a singular signed George Daniels, London, Millennium wristwatch. Sotheby’s offered at auction in May 2024 an 18k yellow gold Millennium wristwatch made in 1999. It fetched CHF 508,000, (£446,300), including buyer’s premium.
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo provided one of the stellar auction sales in 2024. A handmade oval tourbillon pocket watch made by the renowned British watchmaker Derek Pratt, FBHI, (1938–2009) for Urban Jürgensen & Sønner completed in 2005. A contemporary of Dr George Daniels the two would speak about watchmaking. Pratt was awarded the BHI Barrett Silver Medal in 1992 and the Tompion Medal from the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers in 2005.
While you might technically argue that a British watch needs to be made in the UK, Pratt’s important contribution to modern watchmaking fits perfectly within the British tradition. Additionally talented British watchmakers have taken their skills abroad before and will continue to do so much to the benefit of the industry as a whole. Watchmakers like Stephen Forsey (Greubel Forsey) and Peter Speake (PS Horology) are notable modern era examples.
As Phillips catalogued Derek Pratt was technical director at Urban Jürgensen & Sønner in Switzerland from 1982 to 2005. During which time he worked with Peter Baumberger along with Kari Voutilainen to re-establish the brand following the quartz crisis. The oval pocket watch project was started by Pratt in 1982. In 2004 Derek Pratt asked for Kari Voutilainen’s help to undertake the final finishing on the watch which was completed in 2005.
The watch has never appeared at auction before and was snapped up at an incredible CHF 3,690,000 (£3,238,583), including buyer’s premium. The estimate was simply stated as bids in excess of CHF1,000,000.
Roger W Smith Pocket Watch No. 2 in 18k yellow gold (1998), image credit: Phillips
In addition to the Daniels’ ‘Space Traveller I’ and the Derek Pratt oval pocket watch another modern pocket watch to achieve a record price is a piece made by Roger W. Smith. In June 2023 in New York, a unique handmade Roger W. Smith 18k yellow gold pocket watch with a tourbillon, spring detent escapement, perpetual calendar, moon phase and leap year indicator made US $4,900,000 (£3,891,200), including buyer’s premium. Sold by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo the price broke the world record for a British watch. The timepiece was instrumental in proving Smith’s watchmaking skills to George Daniels who then engaged Smith to help him with making the Millennium series of wristwatches. Roger Smith would then go on to establish Roger W. Smith Ltd in 2001 based on the Isle of Man.
Fears Brunswick ‘Jubilee Edition’
While the most valuable watches will always make the headlines it’s well worth keeping an eye on the auction world to see what other British watchmakers are being featured. In December 2024, Christie’s New York included both Fears and Studio Underd0g wristwatches in their auction. The Fears, a limited edition Brunswick 38 ‘Jubilee Edition’ wristwatch sold for USD $3,780, (£3,000), while the Studio Underd0g Watermel0n Generation 1 wristwatch sold for USD 1,638, (£1300), including buyer’s premium.
Both watches were donated, by their respective watch brands, to benefit the Brian LaViolette Scholarship Foundation. Commenting on the auction of their watch Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, (4th) Managing Director at Fears Watch Company noted.
“I first met Doug LaViolette at an event and he shared the story behind the Brian LaViolette Scholarship Foundation, and I was truly inspired by its mission making it an honour to be asked to support the Foundation in a meaningful way. Supporting the LaViolette Watch Auction and Foundation is deeply important to us at Fears. Since 1992, the Brian LaViolette Scholarship Foundation has awarded over 1,160 scholarships, helping students achieve their educational aspirations”.
Studio Underd0g Watermel0n
Speaking, for this article, about his wider observations on the positive progress across the British watchmaking industry Bowman-Scargill added.
“There is a growing appreciation for British watchmaking, both among collectors and within the industry itself. The Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers and similar initiatives have played a crucial role in elevating the profile of independent British brands, fostering collaboration, and reinforcing the UK’s rich horological heritage.
“We’ve observed increased consumer interest in British craftsmanship, with collectors actively seeking watches that embody traditional techniques while embracing modern innovation. The historical significance of British watchmaking—once at the forefront of global horology—is being rediscovered, and initiatives like the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers are helping to re-establish the UK as a key player in the industry.
“At Fears, we’ve seen first-hand how this renewed focus benefits independent brands. There’s a distinct appreciation for our heritage-driven yet contemporary approach, and as British watchmaking continues to gain momentum, we expect even greater international recognition and demand.”
Finally, to end this article which has covered a range of auction highlights for British watchmaking, two other watches caught my eye. One, a Bremont from 2021, incorporates a collab with British musician and artist Ronnie Wood. While the Bel Canto from Christopher Ward should need no introduction. Both the Bremont and Christopher Ward are members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers who will be exhibiting at the Watchmakers’ Day in March.
Oracle Time