For many brands Morgan Stanley’s annual Swiss watch industry report isn’t comfortable reading after several turbulent years. However, if you’re Tag Heuer you’re probably quite pleased with yourself. The report shows Tag’s estimated turnover growing by around 10%, elevating them from 15th (2023) in the watch brand league table to 11th in 2024. This growth comes at a time when Tag have been changing things up, releasing high complication timepieces with high complication price tags. These new Tag Heuer complication watches are providing a different offering for the brand and it seems to be having a positive impact.
Tag Heuer Formula 1 Collection
Ask the average watch enthusiast to describe Tag Heuer and you can expect ‘entry level’, ‘affordable luxury’ and other variations on this theme. This perception of Tag Heuer is linked closely to the price and value they’ve been able to offer. Where TAG cornered the market was with the younger demographic. An 18th birthday present, graduation gift or first paycheck. If you wanted a watch for such an occasion you went to Tag Heuer. With their Formula 1 collection, even today, quartz models start at just over £1,300 on a leather strap. And if you’re not an F1 fan, an automatic Aquaracer will cost you £3,000. Tudor’s Black Bay collections are an alternative to the Aquaracer but not much else comes close from other powerhouse Swiss watch brands.
Whilst these models are the stalwart of the collection the brand has always played around with high horology complications. However, previously these high complication pieces were few and far between. In 2013, they released the Tag Heuer MikroPendulumS, a watch that uses a magnetic pendulum system in place of a hairspring and came accompanied by two tourbillons. This watch along with others that contained the Mikro name aren’t full production watches, more like concepts made in tiny quantities for Tag’s most prestigious clients.
Tag Heuer Monaco V4
The Tag Heuer Monaco V4 Tourbillon is a similar story. It is an incredibly complex watch that uses belts to connect and turn gears. Similar to how the chain moves gears on a bicycle. Perfecting the belt system took over 5 years and the V4 Tourbillon was produced in just 50 pieces priced at $170,000 (approx £127,000). Tag has always produced high horology pieces but they’ve often been R&D type projects rather than the mainstream catalogue. That seems to have shifted over the last few years.
Tag Heuer Formula 1 X Mario Kart Chronograph Tourbillon Limited Edition
In 2022, TAG surprised us all with the Mario Kart Formula 1 Chronograph Tourbillon. The partially open worked dial is paired with an exhibition case back, however, all of that is secondary to the tourbillon cage. Here you’ll find a miniature Mario, Bullet Bill and a blue shell attached to the rotating tourbillon. The Mario Kart collab was a fun introduction of a production series tourbillon. Whilst still limited, 250 pieces is a little more accessible, the price tag of $25,600 was considerably less than previous Tag Heuer complications of this standard. From this point forward Tag Heuer have produced a steady cadence of high horology releases.
Over the next couple of years the tourbillon pieces kept on coming with exotic pieces like the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Polychrome which featured a carbon fibre bezel and PVD coated rainbow effect dial. Earlier this year Tag unveiled a new purple dial tourbillon for the Carrera Glassbox range. A little more subtle than some of the others, (or at least as subtle as a purple tourbillon can be), the smokey purple dial fits inside a 42mm case and is paired with a traditional black leather perforated racing strap.
Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Polychrome
It’s not just been tourbillons that Tag have been thrusting upon the watch world. More advanced chronographs have also been given the spotlight, such as the Monza Flyback Chronometer, the perfect racing watch. The flyback function doesn’t stop the chronograph once it’s reset, instead it simply starts over again. Ideal for measuring lap times. More complex than a standard chronograph, the Monza Flyback was skeletonised and encased in carbon fibre.
Not satisfied with a flyback feature, 2024 saw the introduction of the Tag Heuer Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph. The split second is one of the most complex of chronographs and it first reared its head as a one-off for the 2023 Only Watch auction. A year later Tag added the Monaco Split Second to the catalogue in two colour variants. One in red, the other in blue. The blue version is the most striking with its light blue bridges which are the focal point of the open worked dial. At CHF165,000 (approx. £142,750) it’s by far the most expensive Monaco in the collection.
Tag Heuer Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph F1
This year’s Watches & Wonders event saw the introduction of a new Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph in a 41mm white ceramic case. Underneath the sapphire crystal is a red translucent dial which frames the chronograph subdials and, for F1 fans, contains the text ‘LIGHTS OUT & AWAY WE GO’. Priced similarly to the previous split second chrono, these watches are far removed from the £1,300 Formula 1 and £3,000 Aquaracer where we started.
In my mind there’s no question that Tag Heuer are trending towards more complicated and innovative watches as part of their catalogue. In the last 5 years we’ve seen tourbillons, split second chronographs, ceramic cases, carbon fibre and open worked dials. Tag Heuer complications might not be new but we aren’t used to seeing them this frequently or as part of the main collection. It makes me excited to see what Tag Heuer does next. Chiming complication?
More details at Tag Heuer.
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