What is the most famous series of watches ever produced? It’s a big question with no easy answer. I think you could easily say that Rolex’s suite of professional and classic watches deserves the title as some of the most instantly recognisable watches on the market. Or for similar reasons you could highlight the extensive works of Gerald Genta. However, to me the most influential and genre-defining series of all time is the Dirty Dozen, a collection that has shaped field watch and daily beater design for 80 years. It has also inspired the new Aera M-1 Field and M-1 Blackbird.
The core aspects of the Dirty Dozen are their stark black and white displays, highly legible Arabic numerals, durable cases and reliable movements. All these features are found on the Aera M-1 watches although they have been updated with a modern, contemporary design instead of wallowing in the overused neo-vintage style. What that means is the 39mm steel cases have smooth, clean lines with circular satin brushing. The M-1 Field leaves the steel tone exposed while the M-1 Blackbird is the stealthier option with a black PVD coating over top.
However, what sells the modern appearance of the M-1 better than the case is the modern domed sapphire crystal, which has a dramatic impact on the side profile of the watch compared to the original Dirty Dozen. It’s very durable and scratch resistant while also flowing seamlessly into the bezel. Sapphire crystal wasn’t widely adopted in the watch industry until after the war and so the Dirty Dozen used Perspex instead in the box style where the glass protrudes out from the bezel and then has a flat top.
Focussing in on the dial, both the M-1 Field and M-1 Blackbird are virtually identical. They have a black dish shaped dial with large, lumed Arabic numerals in white. Around the periphery sits a railway minute track that echoes the style of the dozen. Similarly, the time-only functions are split across the central hours and minutes with the seconds separated out to its own small seconds subdial. The only distinguishing difference between the two models is that the M-1 Blackbird has a blue tip to its second hand as well as a blue marker at 12 o’clock while the Field is completely white.
Housed beneath the dial is the Sellita SW216-1 manual-winding movement. It’s Aera’s first manual movement which goes hand in hand with this also being Aera’s first sub-40mm diameter watch. It’s also the Elabore edition of the movement, meaning it has been regulated to a higher degree of accuracy compared to the standard along with its 4 Hz frequency and 42-hour power reserve. It’s also got a higher level of finishing though that remains hidden by the solid caseback.
In terms of price, the M-1 Field is £1,450 while the extra PVD coating on the M-1 Blackbird means it’s £1,600. Between the Elabore movement and cool aesthetic provided by the modernised influence of the Dirty Dozen, that seems pretty reasonable. I also appreciate how the M-1 is a true homage in that it acknowledges and celebrates the watches that have come before without copying them directly. Considering that Aera is a very young brand, founded just in 2022, they have already proven that they have mature watch design skills. Or if you’d prefer a chronograph, check out the C-1.
Price and Specs:
Model:
Aera
M-1 Field and M-1 Blackbird
Case:
39mm
diameter x 13.14mm thickness, stainless steel with or without black PVD coating
Dial:
Matte
black
Water resistance:
100m
(10 bar)
Movement:
Sellita
calibre SW216-1, automatic, 23 jewels
Frequency:
28,800
vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve:
42h
Functions:
Hours,
minutes, seconds
Strap:
Black
Italian calf leather with white stitching and additional tan Italian pebble grain calf leather with white stitching
Price:
£1,450
(Field), £1,600 (Blackbird)
More details at Aera.
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