Posted on

A Beginner’s Guide to Every Tudor Model

A Beginner’s Guide to Every Tudor Model

A Beginner’s Guide to Every Tudor Model

While on paper Tudor seems like a Rolex diffusion brand, that sentiment couldn’t be further from the actual truth, as shown by the brand’s slew of collector-centric new models and reputation for affordable excellence. Collections like the Black Bay have become desirable in their own right, bringing Tudor out from Rolex’s shadow.

Like any serious brand though, they have a fair number of models and if you’re new to the watch world you could use a primer to the full Tudor collection – a primer we’re more than happy to provide. Here then is the Oracle Time guide to every model of the modern Tudor era.

Black Bay Models

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

The Black Bay collection of diving and tool watches has become Tudor’s signature range, distilling over 60 years of knowledge and experience into a single timepiece. It’s a legacy that began with Tudor’s first diver in 1954, the reference 7922, which helped establish Tudor’s dive watch principles of legibility and ruggedness – features that can be seen in the Black Bay today.

However, the Black Bay name doesn’t just refer to a single watch, but several different collections. While each of them are distinct, there are some crucial similarities the make them a uniform collection – you’ll hear ‘snowflake’ hands mentioned more than once.

Tudor Black Bay 41mm

Tudor Black Bay

The base model Black Bay diver’s watch is available in several versions including with date windows and alternative functions. You can see all the elements that typify the broader range: the ‘snowflake’ hands that are inspired by Tudor’s past collaborations with the French Navy, the domed dial and crystal and the big crown. Tudor loves a bit of heritage inspiration, which is evident on the Black Bay’s distinctly vintage dial the combines a black base with brown inscriptions, a brown minute track and white or cream lume.

It’s available in a handful of materials including bronze and the top end model in full ceramic. That ceramic model was the first to introduce a Master Chronometer movement to Tudor’s repertoire, a landmark moment for the brand.

Ref: M7941A1A0RU-0003
Case/Dial: 41mm steel case, black dial, with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house Manufacture Calibre MT5602, automatic, Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £4,010

Learn More

Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy

Tudor Black Bay 58

Taking the Black Bay collection back to its origins, the 58 is named after a famous Tudor timepiece from, you guessed it, 1958. It captures that retro essence in its slimmer case size of 39mm – compared to the regular 41mm. It’s a more elegant take on the Black Bay and explores colour further, with multiple dials on offer with matching tone bezels.

Two stand out models bring precious metals to the table: the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 and 18k. The 925 has a silver case and a taupe dial while the 18k is made from yellow gold and has a green dial. There’s no contest between them though; it’s all about that silver. For 2025 they introduced the first Master Chronometer movement to the collection with a burgundy edition.

Ref: M7939A1AORU-001
Case/Dial:
39mm steel case, burgundy dial, with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture calibre MT5400-U, automatic, COSC and METAS certified, 65h power reserve
Strap: Five link stainless steel bracelet
Price: £3,910

Learn More

Tudor Black Bay Chrono 41mm

Tudor Black Bay Chrono

The halfway house between a classic racing chronograph and the underwater sensibilities of the Black Bay case, the Chrono offers Panda and reverse panda (black counters on white or vice versa) dials that would look at home on vintage trackside timers. If you prefer something a little more luxurious, there’s also the S&G bi-colour version, or even more colourful than that, the Flamingo editions in Miami FC pink or turquoise.

Sure, there’s some debate as to whether a chronograph belongs on a diving watch – it can have an impact on depth resistance and readability – but the Black Bay Chrono is an undeniably cool collection. In 2025 they expanded the range with more bracelet options.

Ref: M79360N-0024
Case/Dial: 41mm steel case, turquoise dial, with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5813, automatic, COSC certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £5,020

Learn More

Tudor Black Bay 31 36 39 41

Tudor Black Bay One 41

If you’re looking for a slightly more refined take on the Black Bay, there’s the One, which used to go by the rather unflattering “31/36/39/41” collection. They eschew the bulky diving bezel for a plain metal version. They’re available in sizes of 31mm, 36mm, 39mm and 41mm making them versatile for wrists of any size. Another aspect that makes them stand out is the graphic style of the dials, especially the silver coloured ones that have white indices with bold black outlines, very modern.

Inside is the T600 automatic movement, a Tudor take on the Sellita SW200. It’s a slight shame that they don’t use the in-house Calibre MT5601, which can be found in most Black Bays and has an outstanding 70-hour power reserve, but this is the kiddy end of the Tudor pool.

Ref: M79680-0002
Case/Dial:
41mm steel case, blue dial with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5601, automatic, COSC certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet 
Price: £3,640

Learn More

Tudor Black Bay Pro White

Tudor Black Bay Pro

The Black Bay Pro is the beginning of a new family of GMT Adventure watches within the Black Bay collection. Stylistically it’s recognisably a Black Bay but there are a few stylistic differences across its case and dial. The case measures 39mm in diameter (somewhat surprising given the appetite for tool watches 42mm and above) and is made from stainless steel with a matching fixed steel bezel and 24-hour scale. The most notable change from the regular BB is the crown, which now has more pronounced knurling and is set flush to the case.

It gives the piece a technical appearance with a clear focus on usability and utility. The durable steel is ideal for travel and doesn’t sacrifice any of the BB’s underwater survivability thanks to 200m water resistance. However, its greatest travel asset is its GMT hand, which is bright yellow for instant legibility. For 2025 they added a white dial option with polar aesthetic.

Ref: M79470-0004
Case/Dial:
39mm steel case, white opaline dial, with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5652, automatic, COSC certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £3,730

Learn More

Tudor Black Bay GMT

Black Bay GMT

One of the more common complications to see on the Black Bay is the GMT, introducing a dual time function to the dive watch. They typically have the same aesthetic and design as the standard BB with the exception of the additional 24-hour hand, which also uses the ‘snowflake’ style. Plus, the case is complimented by a rotating bezel with a 24-hour scale in a range of colours. The most recent version has a red and blue colourway split into day and night – similar to the iconic Pepsi cola colourway used by Rolex. The splash of colour is a nice addition to an otherwise sombre and serious looking watch.

Ref: M79830RB-0010
Case/Dial:
41mm steel case, white opaline dial with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5652, automatic, COSC certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Riveted stainless steel bracelet
Price: £3,870

Learn More

Tudor Black Bay 54

Tudor Black Bay 54

Even smaller than the BB 58 is the 37mm Tudor Black Bay 54. Essentially, it’s a downsized Black Bay 58, but don’t let the similarities deceive you, there are some subtle changes that make the Black Bay 54 very much its own watch. Not only is it smaller in diameter, it also has a slimmer profile measuring 11.24 mm tall. Plus, there’s a smaller, redesigned crown and slightly more overlap on the bezel for easier use. However, it is impossible to avoid the fact that at 37mm, it is small, very small.

It utilises the same movement as it’s bigger brothers the Pelagos and the Black Bay, the in-house Manufacture Calibre MT5400 with its ‘weekend proof’ 70-hour power reserve, silicon hairspring and a tolerance range of 6 seconds (-2/+4).

Ref: M79000N-0001
Case/Dial:
37mm steel case, black dial with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5400, automatic, COSC certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £3,450

Learn More

Tudor Black Bay 68

Tudor Black Bay 68

If the Black Bay 54 and 58 are smaller interpretations of the Black Bay design (with slight variations based on the year they pay homage to) then the Black Bay 68 is a larger interpretation. It measures 43mm in diameter in stainless steel with a uni-directional rotating dive timer bezel. 1968 was an important year in Tudor’s heritage as it was when they developed the now iconic Snowflake hands that debuted in 1969.

Inside is the Master Chronometer movement Manufacture Calibre MT5601-U with a silicon hairspring and a 70-hour power reserve. It’s a classy 3-hand model with an accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day.

Ref: M7943A1A0NU-0001
Case/Dial:
43mm steel case, black dial with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5601-U, automatic, COSC and METAS certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £4,010

Learn More

Non-Black Bay Models

Tudor Pelagos

Surprising as it might seem given the all-pervasive popularity of the Black Bay, that’s not all Tudor has to offer, even in the realm of sports timepieces. From heritage pieces to the chunky beast that is the Pelagos, there’s plenty to love outside of Tudor’s flagship blueprint. Case in point…

Tudor Royal 41mm

Tudor Royal

The Tudor Royal is somewhere on the sports-luxe scale. The 41mm sized versions are big and rugged, suitable for powerful wrists, but the collection also dips down to an absolutely tiny 28mm, which is small for even the daintiest. The contrast between refinement and sportiness is further displayed by the integrated bracelet which is a sporting staple and diamond indices on a dial surrounded by a notched bezel with alternating finishes.

Considering the drastic size differences on display, there are also a variety of calibres that are used inside. The larger pieces use the T601 while the small ones utilise the T201 – supplied variously by Sellita and ETA.

Ref: M28600-0005
Case/Dial:
41mm steel case, blue dial, with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre T603, automatic, 38h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £2,300

Learn More

Tudor Ranger

Tudor Ranger

The genesis of the Ranger began with an expedition to the Arctic with an experimental Tudor watch. Post-expedition, Tudor brought the watch and its feedback improvements into the spotlight as the newly-dubbed Ranger, pretty much as an accessible alternative to the Rolex Explorer. That said, it took until the 1980s to become a reference in its own right – before being decommissioned in 1988.

To celebrate the 70th anniversary of the original 1952 expedition we have the latest edition of the Tudor Ranger, and it was worth a little bit of a wait. It has a 39mm diameter in steel and is fairly chunky, modelled as it is on the incredibly popular Black Bay 58. The whole thing is satin finished, hammering home that utilitarian instrument look – other than a polished accent around the edge. Not being a diving watch there’s no rotating bezel, but it still gets to a respectable 100m water resistance, perfect for, let’s say, trudging through snow.

Ref: M79950-0001
Case/Dial:
39mm steel case, matte black dial with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5402, automatic, COSC certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £2,950

Learn More

Tudor Pelagos

Tudor Pelagos

A basic Black Bay diver is water resistant to around 200m, leaving plenty of room for a dedicated deep sea model. Step forward the Pelagos with its 500m water resistance rating. Stylistically it owes a lot to its Black Bay brethren, featuring the same ‘snowflake’ hand design, although it changes things up with square hour markers.

The materials used also make it stand out from Tudor’s other divers, opting for a 42mm titanium case with a ceramic insert bezel. The crown also has protective shoulders to help prevent accidental adjustment – interestingly there is also a left-handed edition that flips the crown to the 9 o’clock position, called the Pelagos LHD. 

Ref: M25600TB-0001
Case/Dial:
42mm titanium case, ceramic matte blue dial with 500m (50 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5612, automatic, COSC certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Navy blue fabric with grey central thread and additional navy blue fabric strap with woven motif
Price: £4,410

Learn More

Tudor Pelagos 39mm

Tudor Pelagos 39

The Pelagos 39, unsurprisingly, is a compact version of the diver with a sizing of 39mm. It was released follows in the wake of last year’s Pelagos FXD, a watch that put the Pelagos back on people’s radars and renewed the Swiss watchmaker’s relationship with the French Marine Nationale. The Tudor Pelagos 39 is essentially a smaller edition of that watch with an updated movement and without the navy iconography.

Under the surface is the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 that was used in the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 18K and the even slimmer Black Bay 36. It’s a great automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve and Chronometer certified accuracy of -2/+4 seconds per day, better than the requirements of COSC.

Ref: M25407N-0001
Case/Dial:
39mm grade 2 titanium case, black sunray satin finish dial with 200m (20 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture calibre MT5400, automatic, COSC certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Titanium three link bracelet 
Price: £4,140

Learn More

Tudor Pelagos Ultra

Tudor Pelagos Ultra

The Pelagos Ultra, released in 2025, is Tudor’s first dive watch to achieve a water resistance rating of 1,000m. Placing it in prestigious company alongside models from Rolex and Omega such as the Sea-Dweller and Planet Ocean. It’s a large watch measuring 43mm in diameter but that’s offset somewhat by a lightweight titanium construction.

Below the surface it’s powered by the calibre MT5612-U, which is one of Tudor’s METAs certified master chronometers. Tudor has released so many master chronometers that it’s now rarer for their new launches not to feature them, which is a good sign for Tudor’s growth and quality.

Ref: M2543C1A7NU-0001
Case/Dial:
43mm titanium satin-brushed case, matte black dial with 1,000m (100 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5612-U, automatic, METAS and COSC certified, 65h power reserve
Strap: Titanium three link bracelet 
Price: £5,070

Learn More

Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono

Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono

Diving watches with additional complications are a slightly controversial subject as they can reduce the overall legibility of the display, limiting their utility underwater. However, the Pelagos FXD Chrono wasn’t designed with the water in mind as it’s actually part of Tudor’s sport range aimed at cycling. Hence the ultra-light carbon composite case and tachymeter bezel, making it easy to keep track of split times on the go.

It’s powered by the Calibre MT5813 with COSC chronometer certification and a 70-hour power reserve. Recently David Beckham was spotted wearing the 1-of-1 Giro d’Italia edition with pink accents.

Ref: M25827KN-0001
Case/Dial:
43mm black carbon composite case, matte black dial with 1,00m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5813, automatic, METAS and COSC certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Black fabric
Price: £4,650

Learn More

Classic Models

Tudor Clair de Rose

As Rolex’s sister company, Tudor are also masters of classic dress watches in the vein of models like the Datejust. The highlight being of course the fact that all these Rolex quality timepieces are just a fraction of the price. So, whether you look to the 1926, the Style, the Glamour or the slightly more unique Clair de Rose, Tudor have got all your essential luxury timepiece needs covered.

Tudor Clair de Rose 30mm

Tudor Clair de Rose 30mm

2017’s Clair de Rose collection is a refined collection of steel, automatic timepieces aimed squarely at feminine charm. They are an amalgamation of several historic Tudors including the Tudor Royal, Glamour, Princess and Miss Tudor, the most obvious element being the cabochon crown that was almost entirely lifted from the Miss Tudor, at least stylistically.

The opaline dial can be fitted with diamond indices or blue Roman numeral, surrounding the fluted guilloché wheel in the centre. The Clair de Rose is available in three sizes, 26mm, 30mm and 34mm – definitely on the dainty side of things.

Ref: M35500-0001
Case/Dial:
30mm steel case, opaline dial with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre T201, automatic, 38h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £2,340

Learn More

Tudor 1926 28mm

Tudor 1926

1926 was the year that Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf first created Tudor as an accessible alternative to the luxury giant. The watch has a correspondingly vintage aesthetic, with a domed dial and subtle minute scale.

The collection was expanded recently to vastly increase the number of size, dial, colour and material options available. Meaning you can opt for a classic steel and white dial version or a more luxurious rose gold finishing. As with the Tudor Royal, the sizes range between 41mm and 28mm.

Ref: M91351-0002
Case/Dial:
28mm steel case, silver embossed decorated dial with 6 diamonds, with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: Calibre T201, automatic, 38h power reserve
Strap: Steel bracelet
Price: £3,500

Learn More

Discontinued Models

Tudor Submariner

In our beginner guides, we aim to give you an overview of the brand as you’ll find it today, the watches in their current collections are eminently more accessible than vintage pieces that are only available on the second-hand market. However, there are a couple that pop up often enough that they’re still worth covering.

Tudor Black Bay P01 42mm

Tudor Black Bay P01 42mm

The Black Bay P01 technically took 50 years to develop, although for most of that time the plans sat unused in Tudor’s files waiting to be transformed into an actual timepiece. P01 stands for prototype 1, a reference to a series of experimental watches produced by Tudor for the US military in the late 1950s. None of the experiments came to fruition but Tudor kept the blueprints and eventually turned them into the Black Bay P01.

Considering its military starting point, this is the watch that has the least obvious Black Bay heritage, with only the ‘snowflake’ hands as the major indicator of its status. The case shape, with its crown at 4-5 o’clock, is the most unique out of any Black Bay and has a militaristic, utilitarian style without any notable embellishments.

Tudor North Flag 40mm

Tudor North Flag

The North Flag was discontinued last year, but it was so cool that it’s still worth a mention and there are still plenty around. After Tudor’s resurgence they finally made the leap to invest in in-house calibres and the North Flag was the first recipient – a sort of test run before the calibre transferred across to more prominent collections.

With a minimal design and an integrated bracelet, the aesthetics are pure adventurous tool watch and the North Flag has a performance to match, thanks to that in-house MT5621 calibre with a 70-our power reserve.

Tudor Submariner

Tudor Submariner

The Submariner name is synonymous with Rolex and the Tudor version of the watch harks back to the days when the brand was simply Rolex’s more accessible shadow. In fact, the earliest Tudor Submariners were created by the same processes as Rolex, meaning you could find Rolex branding on the cases, bracelets and crown.

However, the Submariner eventually developed its own Tudor flavour, adopting ‘snowflake’ hands, and square hour markers. It was also the first timepiece to bear their new logo of a shield, a logo they carry to this day.

Tudor Heritage Chrono 42mm

Tudor Heritage Chrono 42mm

Tudor’s traditional chronograph takes inspiration from a heritage design from the 1970s, though they haven’t shied away from making alterations to the vintage piece. The outcome of their modern reinterpretation is the Heritage Chrono, a sporty timepiece with a small seconds subdial at 3 o’clock and a 45-minute counter at 9 o’clock.

Stylistically, there are three versions on offer, two greyscale variants and a more colourful blue one called, fittingly, the Heritage Chrono Blue. The combination of a rich blue with the white dial and orange accents makes for an energetic appearance with a busier, more eye-catching look than Tudor’s usual utilitarian vibes.

Tudor Glamour 42mm

Tudor Glamour 42mm

The Glamour collection consists of several sub-collections featuring different complications. There’s the Glamour Double Date, Glamour Date + Day and Glamour Date, each doing more or less what you’d expect.

Out of the lot, the Double Date is the standout with its separate tens and units for the date function at 12 and a small seconds subdial at 6. It has an elegant double bezel which looks great in bi-colour on the 42mm case. As with the other dress watches from Tudor, there are lots of choices to be made including whether you want diamond or regular indices.

Ref: M57103-0005
Case/Dial:
Steel case, silver dial with 11 diamonds, with 100m (10 bar) water resistance
Movement: In-house manufacture Calibre MT5641, automatic, Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certified, 70h power reserve
Strap: Steel and yellow gold bracelet
Price: £4,690

Learn More

​Oracle Time 

Read More