Blancpain Debut Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm Collection

Over the past two years or so watch sizes have been getting smaller. That’s not to say you don’t come across the occasional giant but in general, brands that previously existed in the 40mm+ area have been experimenting with 38mm designs or even smaller. Blancpain aren’t exactly strangers to 38mm watches, there are already some 38mm Fifty Fathoms watches. However, all of those 38mm Fifty Fathoms are Bathyscaphes, not the core Automatique diver. So, it is significant that with today’s launch we finally have a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm.

Why does 38mm matter? Primarily comfort and wearability. The dive watch as a concept has largely surpassed its original intended purpose and in many cases is worn more because of its aesthetic style rather than it utility as a tool watch. So, while a large size goes hand in hand with the practicality of a tool watch (ensuring a wide dial for legibility), most people don’t actually need that from their watches. As such, prioritising comfort by reducing weight, ensuring it fits on the wrist well and the other benefits of a reduced size makes a lot of sense.

There is also the question of gender. Blancpain are styling the new Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm as a women’s watch. I understand why with the pink edition, it is overtly feminine with its ‘petal pink’ dégradé mother of pearl dial. Though with a grade 23 titanium case (Blancpain’s typical grade of titanium though an unusual one in the watch industry as its main benefits are things like heat resistance, which are less important in watches) and 300m water resistance it’s as rugged as any diver. However, with the 18k rose gold edition with black bezel and smoky mother of pearl dial, there’s a strong argument that it’s actually unisex. It feels serious and cool with a luxury edge you can imagine on the wrist of any CEO.

That said, we’d really like to see some Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm watches in the standard array of black, blue and maybe even green if you’re feeling frisky. They would open up the collection to a huge selection of new collectors, including the large female collector base who don’t want girly watches, they just want the styles and designs they already love in sizes that are more appropriate for them. Fortunately, in the press release Blancpain have said “the 38 mm addition completes the Fifty Fathoms family, offering options for every wrist and paving the way for future models in this size.” So perhaps our pleas have already been heard.

Focusing back on the two new models we have for now, they house the Blancpain Manufacture calibre 1153. It’s something of a power house with a reserve of 100-hours supplied by automatic winding. You can see the rotor through the exhibition caseback. It’s a super movement and helps to justify the prices. The pink edition is £15,700 on a fabric strap and £18,400 on a titanium bracelet, while the gold model is £26,400 with a NATO strap and pin buckle, or £29,400 on a rubber or sail-canvas strap with a folding clasp.

More details at Blancpain.

​Oracle Time 

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