We all love vintage-inspired watches, and the trend seems to diversify rather than dissipate. On this note, there are vintage brands being revived all the time. Collectors’ favourite Universal Geneve was revived last year with a curated Geneva-Copenhagen event, in which I was happy to be a participant. This year, Gallet is the next brand to be polished up and brought back by Breitling CEO George Kern, and Antiquorum is in on the game with their 10th and 11th of May Geneva auction next weekend highlighting several lovely vintage examples.
Now let’s be clear, this is not a Gallet auction and includes some pretty strong highlights from Patek Philippe (like the ref 866/5 constituting Lot 500, and Lot 224) and featuring the first ultra-thin Audemars Piguet tourbillon automatic calibre by Ebauches SA. So, do have a look in the online catalogue later. But for now, let’s expand on the brand Gallet and its vintage value proposition that has made it such a strong collector favourite. Antiquorum presents 12 examples of the Gallet legacy as the first lots for this two-day auction, and the following lots 13 to 18 are all Breitling references, which I’d wager is not accidental.
The Gallet Heritage
Gallet Multichron Clamshell ad (1939)
As one of the Swiss brands to succumb to the Quartz Crisis, Gallet remains among the most revered yet underappreciated names in vintage horology, particularly known for their chronographs. Gallet is a testament to innovation and durability and was established in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1826. Gallet pre-dates many of its more famous counterparts and earned a reputation for crafting robust, high-precision timepieces favoured by military personnel, aviators, and professionals. Gallet fits snugly within Breitling’s established tool watch and instrument focus, and we might see it as a more affordable alternative to the brand’s offerings, now averaging in the upper £7-10K segment.
Iconic Models
Harry S Truman (1949), image credit: Abbie Rowe
Gallet’s legacy includes early notable chronographs and multi-scale timers, with their most sought-after models being the Flying Officer, known from the wrist of US President Harry S. Truman. The brand were pioneers in developing waterproof cases and shock-resistant movements, and just like today’s retro tool watches, Gallet focused on functionality without sacrificing elegance. So perhaps we could say it is one of the brands responsible for tough watches suitable for the battlefield and the boardroom, sometimes a well-dressed version of the former.
Gallet Multichron Clamshell (1938)
Other Gallet designs popular among vintage collectors include the Gallet Multichron – one of the first true pilot’s chronographs, featuring a flyback function and luminous dials for readability. Used by Allied forces in WWII, it set the benchmark for aviation watches. The Gallet Clamshell Chronograph is another one, today an increasingly rare and artfully designed chronograph. This came with a Hunter caseback, as used by Furlan Marri in their Red Hunter released last month.
For many, Gallet remains a symbol of craftsmanship and purpose, befitting the oft-clichéd term as a true horological pioneer. Let’s look at four of the most distinctive Gallets in the upcoming Antiquorum auction. Although all 12 lots have big personalities for their 34-35mm case size and offer value compared to more famous chronographs of the era by brands like Longines and Heuer.
Lot 1: Gallet 1920s Single Pusher Chronograph
This is the oldest Gallet reference in the Antiquorum auction, and one of the few remaining 1920s Gallet chronographs. The 34mm case has a dark patina to its Sterling silver case, and to my eyes has a very modern-for-1920 look with bold lugs and a distinctive pilot’s chronograph design. The enamel dial looks remarkably clean for its age, with vibrant patina to its oversized Arabic numerals. It is a single pusher chronograph with a 15-jewel movement, and a cream patina to its registers and centre dial, making for a big wrist presence. At Antiquorum with a low €1,100-€2,200 estimate.
Lot 3: Gallet Flying Officer
US President Harry S. Truman’s choice is perhaps the most well-known Gallet today, except for the Multichron, and is a value proposition. The 1940s chronograph has seen much use, as evident in the spotted and slightly discoloured dial, but you get a real sense of history. The dark cream-patinaed dial has a wealth of information, and its rotating 12-hour bezel makes it a distinct travel companion. The world’s cities are all present on the outer dial edge, including today’s charmingly misspelt examples like Tokio and Shang Hai. The case has a long-lugged design and perfect 35mm proportions, with a note that the movement requires restoration. Offered by Antiquorum at a decent €1,650-€2,700 estimate.
Lot 8: Gallet Clamshell Chronograph
This distinctive chronograph comes with an alluring gilt dial and a sharp 34mm steel case. It is one of the few with its original box and has an excellent AAA rating. With its hunter-style case back, Venus 150 movement and monochrome flair, this Gallet epitomises 40s style, and I can see this easily beating its estimate at the gavel. The massive tool watch crown will make it wear larger, and I can easily see this design being adopted by Breitling’s revival, especially as this already comes on a modern strap. But hey, George Kern, we would appreciate it if you kept some reborn Gallet Chronographs vintage-sized. Not necessarily 34mm, but at least keep it under 38mm, please. At Antiquorum with a €1,650-€2,700 estimate.
Lot 12: Gallet 1970s Big-Eye Chronograph
As Gallets go, this Landeron 48-powered Chronograph has a different style and logo, representing the swansong of a brand soon to succumb to the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s. But I love the Skipper-style regatta layout, big-eye minute register and feuille hands. With bright red and blue segments making up the classic regatta countdown functionality, a fresh orange needle chrono seconds hand adds distinctive flavour to a black patinated dial. It might only be 35mm, but even with its dark dial, what looks like long lugs will make it wear more like a 36-38mm with the added width of the pushers, and it is a great entry ticket to vintage collecting. Offered at Antiquorum with a €1,100-€2,200 estimate.
More details at Antiquorum.
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