A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual Is a Monochromatic Grail with a Complex Heart

With an intense, dark and complicated personality, the new A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual is a study in refined Germanic style. Its understated image belies its stat-beating functionality.

As complications go, this remarkable combination of perpetual calendar and minute repeater is rarely seen for reasons of pure complexity. The proliferous sub-dials, pointers and big slider on the left case side are a connoisseur’s giveaway clues. So far, so impressive. For admirable reasons, the designers at A. Lange & Söhne manage to keep this within a 40.5mm case. Inside the 12.1mm thick case, the movement has a diameter of 30mm with a 7.6mm height. This is impressive by any measure, especially considering its baffling 640 parts. The combination of complications that A. Lange & Söhne offer here seems perplexing, and it is. But is also a celebration of elevated functionality and intense artisanal prowess.

The manufacture calibre L.122.2 is a newly developed manually wound movement and easily one of the thinnest of its kind, with a reserve of 72-hours. But what strikes you first is the intense, razor-sharp contrast of the 950 platinum case with the deep abyss of a dial. Matched by a hand-stitched alligator strap, it matches ever so well with the celebratory platinum versions of the Lange 1 released last autumn. But the deep black this time is not Onyx, but a solid gold dial with a flawless black enamel.

At first glance, the dial reminds me of my favourite 1815 Chronograph, a world apart from this (deep breath) A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual. It shares the brand’s sense of monochromatic balance. I’m usually a big fan of colour, which is clearly evident in my review of Lange 1. But in their timeless black dials, Lange shows instinctive proportionality in their design. This is especially important when packing the watch face with no less than seven hands and pointers, plus the drama of a big date at 12.

The traditional 750 white gold Alpha hands are a trademark of A. Lange & Söhne and their sizing is achingly perfect. The polished hour hand almost kisses the silver ring that marks the inner dial space. The sharp minute hand remains extended to circle slowly within its railroad minute track. This is rendered in a crisp silver print, while serifed numerals are left to breathe with just enough space around them. The triangulated positioning of the three sub-dials contrasts beautifully with the big double date window above.

Large, applied rhodium-plated Roman numerals surround the serene enamel scene. The only concessions to colour are a touch of red in the numerals of the arched leap year display. That and a subdued grey, starry background for the moon phase at 6. But despite this monochrome, suave extravagance, I have no doubt you’ll be mighty distracted by the slider on the left case side, which activates the crisp, clear sound of the minute repeater.

The main parts of the repeater and QP mechanisms lie concealed below the dial. But turn the watch around, and you’ll be faced with the most important elements of the striking mechanism. There are the two manually bent gongs framing the movement and the two gong hammers. This is only part of the intricate charm of what is an elaborate 640-part movement. The hammers of the repeater mechanism are finished with the alchemy of black polish. Added to crystal clear sound, this is but one of the many details that sets this German masterpiece apart. The complications within the MRP are not exactly power-saving, making the 72 hour power reserve all the more impressive.

More details at A. Lange & Söhne.

​Oracle Time 

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