Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph Snow Blue and Tokyo Lion Present Two Distinct Approaches to Chronograph Design

You’d be forgiven for thinking that ‘Tentagraph’ had something to do with an octopus or its tentacles. Instead it’s Grand Seiko’s name for their first fully mechanical chronograph movement that first reared its head back in 2023 with the SLGC001. Now in 2025, as part of Watches and Wonders, Grand Seiko are unveiling two new Tentagraphs with the Evolution 9 Tentagraph Snow Blue and the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph.

As you might expect, given the name, both watches are fitted with Grand Seiko’s automatic chronograph calibre 9SC5. The calibre provides a very respectable 72-hours of power reserve, delivering an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. However, the movement is about the only thing these two new releases have in common.

Where the Snow Blue chronograph is essentially a new dial variant of the current Evolution 9 Tentagraph, the Tokyo Lion joins the Sports Collection with a new hardened titanium case and new super strength rubber strap. Before you pick your favourite there are some interesting features on both watches you should be aware of.

Evolution 9 Tentagraph Snow Blue SLGC007

The Snow Blue shares almost all its characteristics with the first Grand Seiko Tentagraph. The case and bracelet are made from Grand Seiko’s high intensity titanium and paired with a black ceramic bezel.

Just like the original, the Evolution 9 Snow Blue measures 43.2mm in diameter making it one of the larger mechanical chronographs among its peers. For comparison Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport and Tag Heuer’s Glassbox Chronograph measure 41mm and 39mm respectively.

As the name suggests the Snow Blue brings a different hue to the dial of the all titanium chronograph. The dial of the original was a consistent shade of dark blue including the subdials. With the new variant, Grand Seiko have gone panda style with black subdials and the snow blue colouring applied to the rest of the dial.

The Snow Blue colour takes its inspiration from the rocky ridges and majestic deep snow, which can be found on Mount Iwate. Mt Iwate is not only visible from Grand Seiko’s studio in Shizukuishi but is also the name given to the ridge-like pattern on the dial. The addition of texture to the dial is something Grand Seiko does better than almost anyone else. It helps to elevate this watch beyond other sports chronographs and justify the £12,850 price tag.

Sport Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph

The Tokyo Lion moves us towards the unconventional end of the spectrum. The angular case isn’t new but it has been further accentuated with a matching angular bezel. Both of which are crafted from Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium. This alloy, which is brighter than traditional titanium and double the hardness of stainless steel, is highly resistant to scratches and corrosion.

Grand Seiko say the dial pattern draws inspiration from a Lion’s mane as it ‘waves in the wind’. Which seems oddly specific but does explain the apparent randomness of the ridges and diagonal lines etched into the dial. The subdials have also been in-laid into the dial so they appear concave, almost like an upturned contact lens.

The new-ness continues with a newly developed rubber strap that has a tensile strength nearly 2.7 times greater than the previously used silicone. The strap carries on with the angular theme cleverly allowing the lines of the case to continue on through to the strap.

Grand Seiko clearly worked hard on this strap including designing a new clasp for added comfort. And just for good measure they hid a small Easter egg in the form of a lion’s paw motif on the underside of the strap.

The Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is jam packed with features from its geometric shapes to dial textures and new materials. Costing £14,800 there’s plenty to admire if you’re looking for something unconventional.

More details at Grand Seiko Boutique.

​Oracle Time 

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