It’s a long-running joke that everyone in the industry tries to predict Rolex’s watch release slate and 99% of people get it wrong. No one foresaw the arrival of the 1908 in 2023 and even fewer people suspected the full gold Deepsea of 2024. However, it’s still fun to give it a go and hope that maybe this will be the year that Rolex actually revive the Coke after years of collectors asking for it. In honesty you could read this article as ‘Rolexes we’d like the see’.
Rolex GMT-Master II Coke
We are just as keen for the revival of the Rolex GMT-Master II Coke as everyone else. It’s almost a meme at this point how many people predict the return of this legend from the 1990s, which was sadly discontinued in 2007. Collectors across the world have been clamouring for the Coke to make a comeback for years at this point. And 2025 might just be the occasion as it marks the 70th anniversary of the official launch of the original GMT-Master in 1955.
A modern interpretation of the Coke would feature the signature black and red bezel which garnered the model its coke affiliation. It would fit in alongside the current collection with the Calibre 3285 with 70-hour power reserve although Rolex may use the opportunity to release an upgraded movement as well. It would certainly get collectors hot under the collar.
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Moonphase
The possibility of Rolex expanding on the 1908 collection feels very likely and I think it’s a shrewd prediction. When the collection was launched in 2023 no one expected Rolex to touch the new model for a while and yet they came back in 2024 with the 1908 Guilloché, not only immediately expanding on the range but introducing a brand new style of finishing to the Maison.
A natural prediction is for Rolex to release a 1908 Moonphase model, which would finally complete the passing of the torch between the discontinued Cellini range and the 1908. The Cellini Moonphase was the final model to be discontinued so the significance of adding the complication to the 1908 is clear. Plus, as a dress watch model it would really suit the 1908 with its 39mm sizing. On top of the fact that the small seconds display on the standard model is the perfect position for the lunar complication.
Stone Dial Rolexes
Stone dials are having their time in the spotlight at the moment and Rolex have never been one to shy away from precious mineral dials. Whether that’s a stone dial Datejust or something more outlandish like a Submariner stone dial variant. Of the two, the Datejust seems like the collection more likely to see the addition of malachite, tiger’s eye, jade, onyx or any other precious/semi-precious mineral. It’s also the collection’s 80th anniversary. Although given last year’s full gold 3,900m diver, I wouldn’t put a luxurious rendition of the Submariner completely out of the question.
Stone dial watches have been in the zeitgeist recently with launches from Berneron really capturing people’s attention. Rolex are themselves no strangers to stone dials with the Day-Date 36 currently available with eisenkiesel, turquoise or green aventurine. It would be exciting to see these materials make their way to other collections.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rolesor
With the rumoured discontinuation of the Oyster Perpetual Celebration bubble dial, there will be a gap in the Oyster Perpetual collection for a new, fun model. The perfect addition to the range would be an Oyster Perpetual Rolesor model, combining oystersteel with gold for a luxe bi-metallic look. Rolesor is Rolex’s name for bi-metal and bi-colour watches that feature steel cases with golden bezels and golden links down the centre of their bracelets.
Similar to the GMT-Master II Coke, this would actually be the revival of an old style of watch that Rolex used to produce. The Oyster Perpetual Date was available in steel and yellow gold from 1988 to the mid-2000s, giving it a similar production run to the Coke as well. Given the increased interest in neo-vintage watches, perhaps 2025 is the year that 1990s Rolex designs make their comeback.
Rolex Explorer II ‘Polar Evolution’
One of the more niche predictions is the possibility of a Rolex Explorer II ‘Polar Evolution’. A refresh of the Ref. 226570 with improved legibility due to the increased presence of chromalight lume across the dial and bezel. It would also upgrade that metallic bezel to a ceramic one (perhaps in both the white and black variants), totally altering the aesthetic of the 24-hour GMT scale and bringing it closer in style to the GMT-Master II.
While an update like this won’t be at the top of everyone’s wishlists, I do think it’s actually on the more realistic end of the spectrum. It’s been a few years since Rolex did anything with the Explorer range and it’s lowkey one of their coolest collections. A spruce up and quality of life update to the series would be seriously welcome. Although perhaps the moniker ‘Polar Evolution’ is a prediction too far.
Disclaimer: All images used are not official Rolex imagery and have been created by us for illustration purposes only
Oracle Time