It’s impossible to talk about the modern state of the British watch industry without referencing Studio Underd0g. The brand has gone from quirky watermelon-coloured chronographs to partnering with H. Moser & Cie via a genuinely inventive field watch in a timeframe that puts Swiss stalwarts to shame. Behind the success however is still one man: Richard Benc. While the time of him running every aspect of the brand himself have long since passed, he’s still the driving force behind the label’s meteoric success and sold-out limited editions. So, with so much of his own personality poured into Studio Underd0g, we thought we were overdue a chat to find out more about the man behind the brand.
What was the last watch you bought? (preferably not a Studio Underd0g)
I don’t buy Studio Underd0g watches as I get to ‘user-trial’ the samples, as does my wife! The last watch that I bought was actually an old Breguet. I bought it from Subdial last week. I saw it on their socials a few times and over the course of a few days, made the decision to pick it up. It’s a piece from the early 1990s, and is as old as I am, although it’s aged more gracefully than I have! It’s just such a cool watch because there’s so many unique design elements to it that are just so through and through Breguet, but at a distance and they all kind of work cohesively together to just make it like an ultimate dress watch.
Vintage Breguet
Is it your first watch from a prestige brand like that?
It’s my first gold watch although I’ve got a fairly eclectic collection ranging from trusted Swiss houses such as Tudor, Rolex and Longines, to various independents and micros, as well as some cool vintage pieces that I’ve picked up recently. I have an old Girard-Perregaux that I bought on eBay in non-working condition for a couple of hundred quid and got patched up. My knowledge of vintage is near zero. So, it’s very much a case of what I think looks good!
Do you collect anything outside of watches?
I used to collect sneakers. I’d say I don’t collect them in the same way that I once did, much to the delight of my wife as I no longer have a wall dedicated to various kicks! Fortunately watches take up far less space.
Nike Desert Sky and Studio Underd0g Desert Sky
Is there a particular pair that’s the pride of your collection?
I have a pair of Nike Air Max 97s called Desert Sky, and they were an inspiration for, you guessed it, the Studio Underd0g Desert Sky colourway. So, Nike, please don’t sue me. Virgil Abloh did a collaboration with Nike and he did a version on a Nike Dunk in the months leading up to his passing. So that’s a pair that I really like. He had such an interesting approach and brought many new ideas to streetwear in general. When I’m coming up with new ways to market my own brand I often wonder, “what would Virgil do?”
What, other than a watch, is at the top of your wish list?
Currently top of my wish list is a 28cm non-stick frying pan. A recent find/discovery? Since AP’s latest release, I’d say I’ve ‘discovered’ KAWS. I was aware of the brand’s existence through my interest in streetwear, but didn’t know much about its origins. I’ve walked past the 32ft KAWS sculpture in Doha airport many times and have never given it a second look. Learning about how Brian Donnelly went from a kid graffitiing the streets of NYC to a creative powerhouse is fascinating to me.
KAWS sculpture in Doha airport
What inspires you?
Everything and anything! It’s clear to see from the products that I offer, inspiration can come from a colourful fruit, or a pair of sneakers, nothing is off limits! This year I’ve found that most of my inspiration has come from people in the form of a creative conversation. I love when a five-minute phone call turns into an hour of bouncing ideas around and a concept snowballs into shape.
A book, podcast, or album that changed the way you think?
Elephunk.
Who is a celebrity/person of note/intellectual you admire?
I’ve already mentioned Virgil Abloh, but I’ll mention him again as he’s been someone I’ve admired for a long time. He did an excellent lecture at Harvard which is available to watch in full on YouTube naturally titled, Insert Complicated Title Here. He provides so many insights into his creative process during the one-hour lecture, many of which resonate with me as I’ve built my own brand based around product.
Virgil Abloh
What’s your ideal long weekend?
In a few weeks I’m heading to a relatively secluded lodge in the south east of England for a long weekend. I rarely get the chance to truly ‘switch off’ these days, and have only successfully managed to do so once in the last four years or so as I’m constantly ideating what’s next for Studio Underd0g. I’m conscious that I need to take more time to smell the roses, but it’s easier said than done when I’m doing something that I love!
What would we always find in your fridge?
Huel. I’m the type of person who thinks I’m already running behind as soon as I wake up, so I’m either skipping breakfast in totality, or having a Huel on my walk into the office!
What’s a rule or mantra that you live by?
“If anything can be misunderstood, it will be.” I think this is a critical mantra for anyone that works in a creative space, and especially for product development. One of my friends started a golf tee business a few years ago, and he spoke to a supplier about ordering some samples of a tee with two green stripes printed around the tee. The artwork that he got back was of a t-shirt with two green stripes across it…
H. Moser Studio Underd0g Passion Collaboration
What does the year ahead look like for you?
2025 is the year of collaboration for Studio Underd0g. Collaborations enable stories to be formed and told in a way that often one singular voice or brand can’t do alone. Often people expect an end product to define the success or failings of a brand, but I believe when people can connect to a story or the journey, the end product is so much more meaningful.
Oracle Time