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It was only recently that we were discussing the wealth of purple watches out there at the moment, impressing with their rich, royal dials. Evidently Tag Heuer were sad to be left out of the discussion because now they’ve launched not one but two purple Carrera Chronographs, a standard model and a tourbillon edition. Let’s take a hands-on look at the pair.
Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph
Starting with the standard model, it’s the Carrera we know and love. It measures 39mm in diameter, which works perfectly for the size of my wrists. It’s arguably a touch on the small side for a chronograph where I find 40mm the perfect size for balancing wearability and legibility. However, the Carrera really works because it has a touch of that retro-vintage sizing to it that has been popular among collectors recently. I also like the sharp, angular style of the case and strong lugs, which helps give the piece a sporty appearance.
Looking at the dial, it is of course purple. That rich tone has been paired with a fumé gradient around the edges, giving it a smoky design that’s enhanced by the slightly grainy texture of the sunray brushed dial. It reminds me of the skin of a plum, nice and juicy (I can’t think of a way to phrase that without it sounding a little Hannibal Lector-ish). The exact tone is inspired by a purple Monaco from 2022, although when it comes to colourful Monacos it’s pink that’s the current focus.
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Flipping the watch over reveals the exhibition caseback with a view of the TH20-00. It’s an impressive column wheel chronograph movement with an 80-hour power reserve operating at a 4Hz frequency. It’s also nicely decorated with a brushed rotor and Côtes de Genève plate. It contributes to the CHF 6,500 price tag (approx. £5,830).
Price and Specs:
Model:
Tag
Heuer Carrera Chronograph
Ref:
CBS2219.FC6607
Case:
39mm
diameter x 13.86mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial:
Smokey
purple sunray brushed
Water resistance:
100m
(10 bar)
Movement:
Tag
Heuer calibre TH20-00, automatic, 33 jewels
Frequency:
28,800
vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve:
80h
Functions:
Hours,
minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Strap:
Perforated
black calfskin leather strap, black stitching and purple calfskin lining on the reverse with tone-on-tone stitching, stainless steel folding clasp
Price:
CHF
6,500 (approx. £5,830)
Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon
Adding another layer of complexity to the Carrera Chronograph formula is the Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple. Unsurprisingly, it adds a tourbillon into the mix, which takes pride of place at 6 o’clock. As with any tourbillon you’re instantly drawn into its delicate waltz, pulling the watch close your eye and staring at the internal mechanics of the small vortex of motion. I mean, there has to be some reason for them, right? Original design purpose be damned.
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Here the tourbillon has been paired with another plum purple dial with fumé gradient. The case is necessarily larger than its non-tourbillon counterpart, measuring 42mm in diameter with a thickness of 14.33mm, giving it a bit more pronounced presence on the wrist. That said, the constant movement of the tourbillon is arguably more likely to draw the eye rather than the increased size.
The movement here is the TH 20-09. It has a slightly lower power reserve due to the power intensive tourbillon, resulting in a total of 65-hours. That’s still more than admirable for a chronograph tourbillon.
As for the price, it’s a touch more than the standard model. And by a touch, I mean a lot. It’s a lot more than the standard model at CHF 34,000 (approx. £30,500). It’s a price that feels high when compared to the non-tourbillon, but when you look at the competition, is actually decent value for a Swiss tourbillon, plum purple or not.
Price and Specs:
Model:
Tag
Heuer Carrera Chronograph
Ref:
CBS5017.FC6605
Case:
42mm
diameter x 14.33mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial:
Smokey
purple sunray brushed
Water resistance:
100m
(10 bar)
Movement:
Tag
Heuer calibre TH20-09, automatic, 33 jewels
Frequency:
28,800
vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve:
65h
Functions:
Hours,
minutes, seconds, chronograph, tourbillon
Strap:
Perforated
black calfskin leather strap, black stitching and purple calfskin lining on the reverse with tone-on-tone stitching, stainless steel folding clasp
Price:
CHF
34,000 (approx. £30,500)
More details at Tag Heuer.
Oracle Time