Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Steel Watch Review

This year, Vacheron Constantin, the longest continually operating watchmaker in history, is pushing that physically unbeatable record even further by celebrating their 270^th birthday. To put that in context, the French and Indian Seven Years’ War was only just getting going back when Vacheron started producing timepieces. Any time I feel old – which is increasingly these days – stats like that make me feel young again. Not one to let a celebration go unacknowledged, Vacheron are kicking off their anniversary celebrations in a big way: the relaunch of arguably their most sought-after model, the legendary Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222. And yes, this time it’s in steel.

In fact, it’s the watch we’ve been waiting for across at least the last two and a half years, ever since we caught wind of a revived 222 as part of the Historiques archival collection. And while the gorgeous, full-gold number we got back in 2022 was an absolute beauty, it was tinged with disappointment: the legacy of the watch has always been in steel.

The original 222, launched for the brand’s 222nd anniversary back in 1976, was part of that disruptive wave of sports models like the Royal Oak and Nautilus (with which it shared the impeccably finished Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 920) that thrived in proving that steel could be just as prestigious as precious metal. Designed by German designer Jorg Hysek – who had previously served a 4-year stint at Rolex – the 222 was meant to be a sporty twist on early 20th century designs, complete with a then-impressive 120m water resistance.

While Hysek went on to design plenty more watches, like Vacheron’s famous Cuff Watch in 1984 and his own haute horology label in 1999, the 222 didn’t last as long. Despite its place in the pantheon of iconic watch designs, the watch stopped production just seven years after it burst onto the scene, having built less than approximately 150 pieces in gold, 100 in bi-colour and 500 in the hugely covetable steel. It’s not hard to see why you’d need to shell out anywhere between £50,000 and £100,000 for an original, these days, depending on condition.

Even with its relatively short lifespan though, the 222 has done a lot for Vacheron over the years. Sure, it’s not launched them into the mono-watch stratosphere quite like Audemars Piguet, but the 222 also laid the blueprints for what would eventually become the Overseas, the modern brand’s sleek, sporty bestseller. Fortunately for collectors though, the 222 itself is back once again and this time, it’s in steel.

First off, the monochrome look has been dropped. Instead, we get the classic luxury sports watch colourway of blue and steel. It makes sense; this is horological crack to a certain breed of collector and while I personally love a bit of retro monochrome – a steel-coloured dial would make this a grail watch for me – blue is the sensible direction. It also sticks with the vintage ‘automatic’ wording at 6 o’clock, yet another nod to the 70s in a watch full of them.

Otherwise, the Historiques 222 Steel has all the same dimensions and characteristics of its predecessor. The reimagining of the original 222 ‘jumbo’ is paradoxically a diminutive 37mm across, the same dimensions as the full gold. It still has the same notched bezel, flat planes and gloriously industrial feel, just in a more fitting metal.

It goes without saying that integrated bracelet sports watches live and die on their bracelets. Honestly, every watch should treat it as a design feature more than an afterthought, but here it’s a defining factor. It’s integrated. And the 222 might have the best one on the market. It does exactly what a luxury sports watch should – it feels the part. Beautifully machined and brushed, it’s angular links and hexagonal inner links fit snugly together in OCD-scratching perfection. It doesn’t quite have the weight of its yellow gold counterpart, but it’s certainly no lightweight, with a good heft of solidity to it.

Honestly, I could wax lyrical about the bracelet for far too long. It fits snugly on the wrist with enough give to sit comfortably if it gets a little warm; it tapers gorgeously into the main body of the case and, perhaps most importantly, it looks absolutely fantastic, right down to the engraved Maltese cross on the otherwise almost invisible clasp. It was the highlight of the 2022 watch and it still is here – potentially even better as it won’t immediately get scratched to high hell. I’d say it’s the best integrated bracelet around right now and before you get irate, wait until you’ve tried it on. You’ll see what I mean.

Inside is the in-house Calibre 2455/2, a svelte, 3.8mm thin movement that’s nonetheless beautifully finished, evidenced through the sapphire caseback. This is pure Poinçon de Genève goodness.  While the finishing is impressive, the specs aren’t bad either, a 4hz frequency with a 40-hour power reserve, solid for a movement this small.

So, the bottom line, is the Historiques 222 up to the legacy of that original, 1977 model? Yes, I’d say so. A lot more than the full gold version is. This is going to be a grail watch for a lot of collectors out there and for good reason, it’s the missing steel piece in the 70s, Genta-esque wave of sports luxe pieces. It’s also just a damn fine watch in its own right, sleek, beautiful and exquisitely made. As for price, it’ll set you back £30,800, which is a good deal of cash, but not an unexpected one. Given the limited numbers you can expect the Historiques 222 Steel to be made in, that’s a number plenty of collectors will be willing to spring for – especially compared to the up to £100,000 you’d pay for an original. What better way to kick off 2025?

More details at Vacheron Constantin.

​Oracle Time 

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