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The Best Microbrand Watches to Buy in January 2025

The Best Microbrand Watches to Buy in January 2025

Martin Design Supernatural Tonaros

Martin Design Supernatural Tonaros 

After getting hands on with Martin Design’s Supernatural Triskel over Christmas, I can confirm that they’re well made and bags of fun. The Supernatural Tonaros is a lot more refined in its looks thanks to its frosted salmon, multi-layered dial. It also has the characteristic asymmetrical regulator display of the collection which adds a lot of charm and whimsy to the piece. Which is fitting because each of the core models in the collection is named after an old Celtic deity.

For example Tonaros is the god of thunder so the textured golden tone of the salmon dial makes sense. Powering the regulator display is the Miyota 82S7, one of the Japanese manufactures more obscure references though still with a 42-hour power reserve.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Martin

Design Supernatural Tonaros

Case:
40mm

diameter x 12mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Orange

Water resistance:
50m

(5 bar)

Movement:
Miyota

calibre 82S7, automatic, 21 jewels

Frequency:
21,600

vph (3 Hz)

Power reserve:
42h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Calfskin

leather

Price:
£306

More details at Martin Design.

Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte Purist

Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte Purist Typ 2 Königsblau

The Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte (DUG) Purist wristwatch is available in two variations. The Typ 1 (that’s not a spelling error typ is German for type) has a minimalist array of baton hour markers while the Typ 2 swaps those out for a combination of Arabic numerals alongside batons at the cardinal points. Beyond the change in hour markers, the two Typs are identical with ultra-clean cases measuring 40mm in diameter with smooth bezels and large, fluted crowns.

There are also a couple of colours available but by far the best is the Königsblau with its blue fumé. Beneath the surface is the DUG 400 calibre, which is a base Sellita 400 that’s decorated and finished in Glashütte.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Deutsche

Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte Purist

Ref:
P2NS-LS

Case:
40mm

diameter x 10.95mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Textured

blue fume

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
DUG

calibre 400 (based on Sellita SW400), automatic, 26 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
38h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Black

leather

Price:
£799

More details at DUG.

Eoniq Signature Cornwall

Eoniq Signature Cornwall 

Eoniq are a watch design and calibre manufacture who have revolutionised watchmaking in Hong Kong. They have brought the complete elements of design, production and assembly into the city so that for the first time in history a watch movement can receive the Hong Kong Certificate of Origin, essentially the ‘Made in Hong Kong’ equivalent to ‘Made in Switzerland’.

The movement in question is the manual Calibre 852, which can be found in the sleek integrated bracelet sports watch Eoniq Signature Cornwall. It measures 40mm in steel with a skeletonised display showing the inner workings of the movement. The skeletonization has a lovely fluidity to its lines.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Eoniq

Signature Cornwall

Case:
40mm

diameter x 9.8mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Skeletonised

Water resistance:
100m

(10 bar)

Movement:
Eoniq

signature calibre 852, manuak winding, 17 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
42h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Stainless

steel bracelet

Price:
$1,535

(approx. £1,247)

More details at Eoniq.

Paradisi RP 02 Titanium Grade

PS Horology Tsuba Blue

Paradisi’s new RP 02 Titanium Grade uses grade 23 titanium for its case, which has better corrosion resistance than other grades and also better ‘human compatibility’ whatever that means. It’s a simple design that will impressively dive to 1000m if you want it to. As you’d expect from a dive watch that serious it has substantial presence on the wrist with a diameter of 43mm, but it shouldn’t be overwhelmingly heavy due to the lightweight properties of titanium – ah, perhaps that is the human compatibility?

One of the most striking design choices is to go for a completely plain, brushed bezel sans diving scale, similar to the Heron Marinor Ghost. It’s an unconventional decision but one that really makes the watch stick in your mind after you’ve seen it.

Price and Specs:


Model:
Paradisi

RP 02 Titanium Grade 23

Case:
43mm

diameter x 12.3mm thickness, titanium

Dial:
Black

Water resistance:
1000m

(100 bar)

Movement:
La

Joux Perret calibre G100, automatic, 24 jewels

Frequency:
28,800

vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve:
68h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds, date, chronograph

Strap:
Sailcloth

Price:
€2,850,

limited to 50 pieces

More details at Paradisi.

PS Horology Tsuba Blue

PS Horology Tsuba Blue 

With a case shape inspired by a samurai sword guard, tsuba, the famous British watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin’s latest creation is high end and inspired by Asia. Specifically, the design of the watch is a hybrid between two popular style of tsuba, the octagon and the quince. Essentially the 38.3mm case is an irregular octagon that places huge emphasis on four of the sides in the same way that the quince shape (named after the fruit) has four sections.

That’s then paired with an integrated bracelet for a bold appearance that could be straight from the 80s. The dial is also an interesting fusion of vintage and modern design codes. Powering the piece is the Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier calibre 5401 with micro-rotor. In a limited edition of 100 pieces and a price tag approaching 20k, this is the type of watch that makes you ask where the line between microbrand and independent really sits.

Price and Specs:


Model:
PS

Horology Tsuba Blue

Case:
38.3mm

diameter x 8.91mm thickness, stainless steel

Dial:
Sapphire

Movement:
Vaucher

Manufacture calibre 5401, automatic, 29 jewels

Frequency:
21,600

vph (3 Hz)

Power reserve:
48h

Functions:
Hours,

minutes, seconds

Strap:
Stainless

steel bracelet

Price:
CHF

19,500 (approx. £17,350), limited to 100 pieces

More details at PS Horology.

​Oracle Time 

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