It’s been another incredible year for the watch industry, though it would seem that sales are down for the big groups (LVMH, Swatch, Richemont, et al.) it feels like an exciting time for young brands with fresh ideas. The independent market is experiencing Cambrian explosion levels of creativity and innovation. With that in mind it’s been very difficult to whittle a list down to just 5 of the best watches of 2024. This list also is a little redundant, thanks to our community focused watch awards, in which you guys voted (thank you). Despite the challenge, I persevered. So, without further ado, here are The Best Watches of 2024 (according to me).
Awake Sơn Mài Emerald
I was blown away upon seeing Awake’s Sơn Mài in the metal. The dial is created using an ancient Vietnamese lacquer technique which places lacquer over silver leaf, creating a depth that’s hard to replicate. Pair that with indexes that are raised on lume plinths creating a backlight effect, a flowing steel case shape and a leather strap, it looks fantastic on the wrist in any of the colours. Inside you have a La Joux-Perret movement, which makes it a ridiculous offering for £1,740.
More details at Awake.
Zenith Pilot Automatic Porter
I’ll admit, I wasn’t familiar with Yoshida and Co. until I read about their collaboration with Zenith on the Fratello website. However, regardless of the unknown brand affiliation the green ceramic Automatic Pilot watch is everything I love, green, orange and utilitarian. The Zenith Pilot Automatic has always had a great design (and famously is the only watch with “Pilot” allowed on the dial) and the green ceramic case, Yoshida and Co. strap and orange accents is enough to tip me over the edge. That and the El Primero movement of course. Yes, £10,000 is a lot of money to spend on something just because you like the look of it, but screw it, this is what ‘best of’ lists are about.
More details at Zenith.
Louis Erard Olivier Mosset Le Regulateur
If you’re familiar with Louis Erard, you’ll know their speciality of late is regulator watches. These are watches where the hours, minutes and seconds are on separate subdials or displays and are designed to be a reference point to set other watches or clocks against. It’s not generally a layout that’s appealed to me until I discovered their collaboration with minimal artist Oliver Mosset. This version of Le Regulateur is incredibly minimal with no indexes, and only three stealthy hands set against the backdrop of a lacquered glitter-laden dial. Pair that with a black PVD case and black leather strap and the result is a watch suited to a black-tie event. It’s fun, visually interesting and subversive. Sure, at around £4,000 and limited to 178 pieces it’s not for everyone. But have you ever seen a watch like it?
More details at Louis Erard.
Paulin Modul E Automatic
I expect for people who actually lived through the ‘70s the Paulin Modul E Automatic could invoke a Thatcher-induced form of PTSD, but for those looking through retro-tinted specs, it’s a quirky and unique design drawing on an interesting colour palette and typography. Just like my previous choice, The Modul E is unique looking and comes with a host of movement choices thanks to its modular (get it) design (personally the La Joux-Perret housed 39mm version is my favourite). It’s also affordable, looks very cool on a mesh strap and wears well at just under 10mm thick.
More details at Paulin.
Berneron Mirage Tiger Eye
This is a watch I haven’t yet managed to get my paws on, but it’s my favourite on this list. Yes, the inspiration is one of the most hyped watch designs of the past few years (the Cartier Crash of course) but I can look past that. It’s a thing of sheer beauty. At its heart is the in-house, asymmetrical calibre 215. Constructed from gold and finished using a variety of techniques it features a 72-hour power reserve. The 34mm 18kt case is open on the rear showcasing the incredible movement and, on the front, the dial is finished with a high-grade Tiger Eye stone that emanates warmth. Yes, it’s CHF 54,000 (excluding tax) but a man can dream.
More details at Berneron.
Oracle Time